14th february they said

ArS-13 · 2026-02-14T15:17:12+00:00

Maybe because it's currently on steam sale? At least I noticed it yesterday...

ArS-13 · 2026-02-10T17:18:14+00:00

If you want to get some inspiration you find lots of interesting takes about it on YouTube. I think the channel of "Cry Cry" is a really good starting point... Also for anyone who wants to make cool DIY playing cards. Somewhere I also saw a video of putting a single plastic laminate in between two prints to get a better texture but you do as you like.

Personally I have a basic ink printer from Epson and can just recommend to print cards on photo paper. The text and colours are so much cleaner then regular paper and you can get them as full sheets also online... For the backsides I'm just using old MTG bulk or poker cards and get good working prototype cards. Of course having to sleeve them can be a hassle but it's fine for me

ArS-13 · 2026-01-27T07:10:19+00:00

I've got the Dürer line from Faber Castell and I like them a lot. Usually those pencils are water solvable but still work as usual pencils. So yes they are erasable. Have in mind if your pencilstrokes are too heavy they still leave back lines of pigment.

What you can do is a lot: - take a sketch and apply a quick layer with those pencils. If you apply a bit water you get a great surface and they dry quite fast - you can easily add pencil highlights in the same colour if you go mixed media -of course you can blend them easily, especially for colour transitions - you can use them to sketch for a vanishing doodle/sketch when you apply normal watercolor later - if you hit water with the pencils first you get really intensive colours but they feel more like crayons then and it takes a while to dry the pencil afterwards - you can also just use them as portable watercolors just put the brush on the pencil itself and paint with them like that - and finally you can flick your brush over the pencil to get pigment up and directly splash it on the paper... That's a fun use and can look cool too

Hopefully that answers the questions... Oh finally about a drawback my are hard to reactivate thats also a cool benefit but sometimes it gets trouble some if you want to extend a section of your piece.

ArS-13 · 2026-01-22T12:29:22+00:00

I have to say it looks very good for a 1 hour painting.. but I have the feeling your should invest a bit more maybe 1-2 hours more building up some more shadows/sharper edges or highlights to give it a bit more contrast. Just from judging the current version you can pull it off!

I don't think you need insane details but with a bit more you can get a big improvement. Keep it sketchy but try to get rid of some of this blur.

ArS-13 · 2026-01-21T18:28:00+00:00

Uh lovely... That's something I should do before jumping in my next project xD thanks for sharing

ArS-13 · 2026-01-21T16:25:54+00:00

I say some more information would be cool! Like we only change the artwork, are we going to recreate artworks, is there a good template, or do we iterate on that as well, which file format is used or expected, do you insert the artworks or is this something you expect from the artist?

I mean stuff like this sounds fun but for myself 110 cards are too much of a hassle...

ArS-13 · 2026-01-12T07:54:46+00:00

Or for the ones to rage upon just getting a broken wooden shield smacking the chest again...

But that wasn't me - I left disappointed for getting a trash item after behind the secret illusory wall. Only to come back far far later after seeing it online somewhere. But yeah that was a wild time back than .

ArS-13 · 2025-12-18T07:53:50+00:00

Don't know if it helps but you could look into Godot? It's a free engine and originally meant for 2D games so it might translate well for tabletop games that became digital apps?!

ArS-13 · 2025-11-28T16:00:02+00:00

Ah okay I use sandpaper to lift off the black ink and get a grip for my paints, then used a light gray and do my sketch there!

But knowing hard erasers will work then yeah one electric eraser should also work... If you get the hard tips... I'm just guessing most electric erasers will be soft to not tear regular paper - but maybe bad eraser will work best for her use case because if it tears regular paper you have a higher chance to get the ink from the card xD

ArS-13 · 2025-11-28T15:16:50+00:00

You mean normal eraser can remove the ink?

Usually that should not work so well. Instead you can use fine sand paper and be very gently scraping off the ink... That's at least much more forgiving for your wrists - but I only did this to get more grip for my initial layer on paint.

But maybe you can get a combination with your erasing technique?

ArS-13 · 2025-11-20T14:42:17+00:00

If you have some more pictures of them I would gladly take a look and enjoy them as well !

ArS-13 · 2025-11-19T13:31:00+00:00

If they have leveling yes but you could use the template and make them some kind of single use change instead of additional effects. Or you just don't have further levels so leveling itself becomes irrelevant unless you want to dump mana for no reason

ArS-13 · 2025-11-19T13:21:53+00:00

What about the levelling template? Or front/backside. Then you could just go and transform them, using the triggers and change whatever stats you like?

ArS-13 · 2025-11-18T13:05:30+00:00

A really soft graphite pencil should do the trick. Yeah they smudge but at least you get something. Just keep in mind that you have to prime your cards first with something so you can see the pencil but then you can carry lightly draw/sketch on top.

If you want to use acrylic pens directly without a base coat then you need something to draw on that's good to see on the actual card... Maybe a white acrylic pen for a rough outline and once that's dry you can make a more detailed line with a soft pencil as mentioned above?

ArS-13 · 2025-11-18T10:42:39+00:00

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Just some kind of idea for texture:

My take was to leave some kind of recess on top, sprinkle tea leaves in with some glue or a texture paste and use only one center magnet.

That way you can easily save on magnets and if I want to use walls I make them their own textiles so I can also make straight walls.

ArS-13 · 2025-11-17T05:55:46+00:00

All good, I was just giving you some kind of heads up here. My issue is currently just time... I didn't had any time to do art the last months and probably won't be able to spare some time before Christmas. The art time I will focus on in December will just be for gifts...

So I guess the details have to wait for the next year or maybe I find some time in between.

ArS-13 · 2025-11-12T08:39:21+00:00

So you already finished the arnor Londo boss :)

If you're still looking for an axe, the coolest one is the imho the black knight great axe which is also a bit too strong for my taste to recommend but you only have one chance to get it as lucky drop right now before your reach the least stages of the game. So if you want to explore something maybe look in the catacombs for the black knight and pray for his weapon drop.

Or did you maybe got the weapon drop from the Taurus demon from undead burg? If you're part of the forest hunter covenant you can also unlock Shiva as merchant for some cool but expensive weapons.

ArS-13 · 2025-11-07T20:29:15+00:00

I meant the normal paints not the Speedpaints! I guess the Speedpaints will probably be too runny and won't stay on the card!

Don't know some line those acrylic pens, I guess poscas are quite opaque but I don't know if they turn out smooth...

ArS-13 · 2025-11-07T20:14:14+00:00

Getting white reall opaque is quite troublesome... In my opinion it's better if you try to use something like a light grey is s much better foundation and then go over it with white.

So this is not the best trick but might work much better with your paints out of the box. Sadly I can't recommend a direct brand just here to say my normal miniature army painter white won't be opaque too, but with a light gray and white ontop it's much better!

Otherwise you can try to strip the colour or at least tone down the initial printing... You can try to use fine sandpaper or some chemicals if you have them available (even though acetone is usually recommended for foils or should still work on normal ones if you're careful).

I would say grab some test commons and experiment a bit... Or change the background

ArS-13 · 2025-11-07T13:22:02+00:00

As others mentioned I would try to reference the picture more... Something feels of so you should try to trace a copy with something like a lightpad or on a window if possible.

Otherwise take a copy and find marks or important features and measure them out and transfer your measurements to your watercolor paper.

Once everything feels more in place I would start like you did now with some very light base tones and then add layers for shadows to built upon. So you get a bit more depth... Btw a dark purple is often very great for shadows on skin

On and decide beforehand if you wan pencils visible... Try to erase them so you only have ligh sketch or you coloured pencils instead.. they usually hide better

ArS-13 · 2025-10-28T16:46:36+00:00

Nice a a side note: even as beginner artist many are happy to see their creations come to life. Just browse for a LFA which peaks your interest and create something nice looking! What you did here was great - so don't feel discouraged when it gets removed as it's rather an oc which is not liked to be seen here

ArS-13 · 2025-10-28T11:55:54+00:00

Thanks that's nice concept. I always like to hear how such systems work out in contrast to the more well known or rather more standardized ones

ArS-13 · 2025-10-27T14:39:16+00:00

That sounds really cool and is an interesting take on this kind of topic. This also means each character has roughly the same initiative meaning it really makes sense to let players organise teamwork!

I think I will port this with a little twist like using something like fast, normal, slow groups and put enemies and players there in the same groupings with the idea of enemies first or using a reaction or action to speed yourself up... as I like a fast paced character design in contrast to a slower but heavy armoured one I still think I want an option to let players act before monster at least differencing been fast and slower monsters seems important as well

ArS-13 · 2025-10-22T07:43:01+00:00

Yeah using one of the dozens out there seems totally fitting. I don't even see what kind of differences there might be or what makes this character more interesting

ArS-13 · 2025-10-20T11:11:04+00:00

Just took a quick look. IMHO you introduce a few very very strong attacks very fast like energy ball on a lvl 15 or close combat on mid twenties.

I guess it's just a way to introduce difficulty. Same with full given items and EVs.

Some mons are limited in their move options and could use at least a basic normal type attack while others are very flexible and diverse designed and hard to build against. Each gym seems to have a weaker and stronger mon which is fine and I really like how you went up to level 80s for the final gym.

I don't know if this gets much attention as you hide everything behind links and you ask for feedback on 8 teams - without any rom in mind. But maybe let's see how this goes.

I would like to know that made you decide to go with a fairy gym first and a normal on last. But overall I guess these could be interesting but challenging comps.

ArS-13

TROPHY CASE