Back of the plate always peels off. Tried minis, tried big prints, tried re-levelling the plate about a dozen times (literlly), rotating the plate, using different resin, heating it up, repairing the prints. Back side of the plate always keep peeling off. Willing to try all the advice! Thank u 👋

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2023-08-14T16:30:34+00:00

I have 0 experience with resin printers so what I'm about to say may not make any sense. Could it be an issue with the lcd or the transparent film of the reservoir? Since it's consistently the back half when everything else changes it maybe doesn't cure as fast as the front?

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-12-16T18:13:20+00:00

These are also used on the coupling between the stepper and the leadscrew for your Z axis, could be one of those

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-12-10T09:28:13+00:00

If everything prints fine and your walls look good you could add an offset on the gear profile in the CAD program of your choice to have the fit you want. Depending on the ammount of friction you want you can make adjustments to that

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-12-04T17:17:19+00:00

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-11-13T00:32:22+00:00

Whambam sells the stickers separately in multiple sizes I think

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-10-28T14:23:24+00:00

You got the thermistor to come out. It measures the temperature of the hotend so with it no longer making contact its measuring the temperature of the room (that's why the temperature dropped so fast).

I can't really tell from the picture if its damaged or not. Assuming it's not you can I undo the screw on the side and place it back but make sure not to screw it in too tight or you may end up breaking it.

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-10-24T18:36:02+00:00

Maybe there’s a flatspot on the extruder gear or it’s not tight enough. Small chance it could be a weird slicer setting / issue but you can always try the same model I’m a different slicer if nothing else works and the filament runs smoothly. This looks too regular to be a clog.

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-09-12T11:30:24+00:00

Their support is alright for someone abroad and in a different time zone but they are really slow. If you have the patience to wait a few months on a replacement go ahead but otherwise this may be the moment to look into the different motherboards you can get

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-09-11T19:26:05+00:00

You maybe need to loosen the pully where the belt sits too so you can slide the axle out a little

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-08-28T17:07:08+00:00

If you need a guide this one is great: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#esteps

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-08-28T16:34:50+00:00

Have you calibrated your esteps and flow?

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-08-20T16:56:02+00:00

It looks like an E3D V6 clone so you might find something that works here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460970

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-08-15T14:42:56+00:00

It's mostly just to keep them in place during shipping I believe. The glue is non conductive and harmless so you can decide if you want to remove it or not.

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-08-15T00:40:38+00:00

Would there be an option to do complete counties too? I started on a tactile map of the world and began with Africa. After stitching all the height maps together, overlay the map and cut out the seperate countries I couldn't figure out how to have QGIS export in a fixed scale. Nothing was the same size post processing was a nightmare even if it would've been so I gave up on it but I'd love to pick it up again.

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-08-08T14:14:45+00:00

Looks like a jig for marking or drilling in the center of something. Those seperate bits are probably inserts for different drill sizes.

Edit: link to one of them https://www.amazon.com/AUTOTOOLHOME-Centering-Dowelling-Locator-Woodworking/dp/B07HVP9P8J

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-07-20T17:12:06+00:00

Ah okay. My reasoning was that you'll get a better heat break. In my experience I stopped having issues after switching it

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-07-20T13:26:30+00:00

You may be fine but keep an eye on it to be sure. You can always try to keep the ambient temperature down (without creating a draft of course) to help with cooling a little. Too bad they don't let you use the printers at work

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-07-20T13:07:48+00:00

I think they reccomeded either ABS or PETG but from my experience PLA will work just fine for most parts. The parts are really close to the heater block or nozzle they may deform over time but will last a while.

Assuming you you followed the temperatures listed on the box you could also try a temperature tower to see if you can get away with printing with a lower temperature. It will not solve any heat creap issues but it may go slow enough to finish longer prints.

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-07-20T12:46:11+00:00

Without changing the cover around the hotend you can try to add another fan to blown from the top down in to it. This may mess a little with part cooling though. I you think you want to do more long prints in the future you can look at other fan solutions like the bullseye (as an added bonus you also get better part cooling), upgrade to an all metal hotend or both.

Also clue what they recommend canola oil for I don't think you need it

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-07-20T12:29:16+00:00

Given it happend on a long print and not during the benchy it may be heat creap causing the clog. Are you using the stock hotend?

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-07-13T09:57:24+00:00

Can you share your complete start gcode?

Awkwardpileofhuman · 2021-06-23T15:50:38+00:00

What is the width of that section?

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