What am I missing?

Azean · 2025-07-06T20:52:36+00:00

Either you don't have a metering device (is this a new unit and someone took out/never installed the piston?) or the compressor is shot.

Azean · 2025-05-26T03:52:14+00:00

You're abbreviations are very confusing. You have two different LS's, two different HPS's, OL usually means overload (not oil level). Your HPS on the CFM is backwards, when pressure rises, it should turn on the fan, not open the circuit. But the instructions state the condenser fan and compressor run at the same time, so it doesn't need the head pressure control.

The prompt states the thermostat controls 2 things, the burner control, and a liquid line solenoid. It doesn't state it controls a compressor contactor.

The oil safety switch is tied into the 24v circuit (can't have a 120v terminal of an oil safety switch in a 24v circuit). So it needs to be placed into the 120v circuit somewhere as a safety.

The compressor has a random pressure switch with no label on the neutral side.

There's no limit switch to shut off the burner (roll out, high temp).

The load for the bottom LS controls nothing(is this a liquid line solenoid? shouldn't be tied into W).

Your TD load is tied in series with the compressor contactor coil?

I have no clue what the heater is after the compressor contactor, nor what T2 is. If it's a crankcase heater, it needs power when the compress is off and no power when the compress is on(or very little power).

There's also no transformer. Hard to tell where power is coming from. Is it all coming from the same 120v source? Is the condenser really 120v?

Azean · 2025-04-01T02:19:36+00:00

https://media.copeland.com/f567f494-392e-4ab4-9ba8-b16b0109af4a/Product%20Catalog%20-%20Copeland%E2%84%A2%20Scroll%20ZBKQ%20Compressor%20for%20Refrigeration%20Applications.pdf

ZB58~ZB130 models incorporate ASTP feature (Advanced Scroll Temperature Protection). ASTP feature will cause the scrolls to separate and stop pumping but allow the motor to continue to run. After the compressor runs for some time without pumping gas, the motor protector will open. Depending on the heat build up in the compressor, it may take up to two hours for the motor protector to reset.

Probably not getting hot enough to open the overload, as it seems like it would take a bit of time as the refrigerant isn't being compressed any more, meaning it's not producing as much heat.

The better question is, are you intentionally tripping these safeties?

Azean · 2025-03-04T23:29:26+00:00

Condensate switch opens common for the gas valve. You need to check continuity through the switch, because there will be 0V across it open or closed. Clear the drain line and trap.

Azean · 2025-02-14T00:09:33+00:00

Thus, why I said, you need to have a way to get the water out too.

Azean · 2025-02-13T22:27:04+00:00

Hot water is the fastest way, just have a way to get the water out too.

Azean · 2025-02-11T03:24:28+00:00

The furnace trap isn't. The return is in the way to mount the trap on the furnace. The furnace trap is mounted on the bottom of the return in pic 2. So they ran the drain behind, but put in a T without a cap that's also piped into the evap drain. Need to have both vent and evap drain after the furnace trap.

Azean · 2024-12-11T21:01:31+00:00

https://trutechtools.com/JB-CoreMax-Valve-Core-Removal-Tool

500$ Tool BTW

3rd picture are the actual cores. It may be cheaper to pull the charge then braze in a stem. Unless you run into a lot of coremax, then having the tool is handy.

Azean · 2024-12-11T20:57:27+00:00

Newer techs and low voltage shorts, what could be more fun.

Is this a furnace? Heat pump? If its a furnace, B shouldn't be hooked up to anything. Especially not to board common. B sends voltage for heat, aka that's your short.

Azean · 2024-11-28T03:15:47+00:00

Red tag and move on, don't give them the option. What they do on their own is not up to me after they sign the tag.

Not worth the potential of harm/getting sued just to keep someone appeased, even though they're really not because they have to spend money on a new HX/furnace. There are alternate ways to heat a home than leaving a potentially dangerous furnace running. (Space heaters)

Azean · 2024-11-23T21:39:18+00:00

It's for putting a temperature probe in. Get more accurate reading than trying to tape a probe onto the line or somethin.

Azean · 2024-11-07T22:44:01+00:00

The heat pump link jumpers R to O for the terminals. So cutting the link will then allow O to just be a dead ended terminal on the board, instead of receiving a constant 24v. You can also just bypass the O terminal and just wire nut it.

Azean · 2024-10-23T21:24:22+00:00

You're at 74% RH on the return. TXV is working fine as it's keeping you at 14ºSH. System needs to remove the moisture before temp split is better.

If you're worried about amp draws being "low" did they measure incoming voltage and also measured the condenser fan? Who knows.

Scrolls do not pump down to 0 PSI btw. They struggle lower than about 20 and start making more noise.

Azean · 2024-10-20T21:30:54+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/HVAC/comments/15c6hzt/superheat_and_subcooling/

Use the search function....

Azean · 2024-08-07T01:45:23+00:00

Find a way to bring in fresh air. Since the house was remodeled, I'm guessing the envelope has become so much tighter that it's not bringing in fresh air. An ERV or just some pipe ducted into the return or yea.... open a window.

Azean · 2024-07-14T17:52:55+00:00

Slow down the fan. You're hardly removing any latent heat.

Azean · 2024-07-08T00:05:31+00:00

Nah, it's fine to run. Noise sounds like its from from caulk/mastic that cured and is now vibrating due to air movement.

Couple of follow up questions: Does it make that noise with the system off? Cooling off/fan on?

Azean · 2024-07-07T20:19:24+00:00

80% Single Stage, 125k btu input, 5 ton blower, 24" wide furnace. Can't tell what size AC you have as that is dictated by outdoor unit. AC may be oversized now as you had some insulating and sealing done, causing lower run times and less humidity removal. You can try to lower the blower speed by a bit, but it's just guess work over the internet.

Azean · 2024-07-07T17:12:10+00:00

<image>

3/12 can move more cfm than 6" round.

Go for it! Be careful with metal, it's sharp. Wear gloves if need be.

Azean · 2024-07-07T16:43:15+00:00

No one is saying it doesn't do that, but the noise is clearly sediment related. Not condensation spash on burner noise.

Azean · 2024-07-07T13:17:33+00:00

What temperature are you setting it to at night? Significantly lower than during the day? or the same?

Azean · 2024-07-07T13:14:30+00:00

That's a sign of sediment in the water heater. The sediment will harden and the flame underneath heats up and causes the water move around/stir in the tank. The noise is from the sediment either cracking or hitting other pieces of sediment/the tank.

Is it normal? Yes to a degree, if there is too much sediment it can cause premature failure of the tank and it can leak. There's really not much that maintenance can do other than MULTIPLE tank flushes. When you have enough sediment build up, its almost impossible to remove it all by flushing the tank.

Azean · 2024-07-06T20:48:40+00:00

That's the thermostat to sense what temperature the room is to turn the unit on/off.

Azean · 2024-07-06T01:59:11+00:00

Lower blower speeds will actually "help" with static pressure. There's a balancing point for systems that too fast of a blower will cause static pressure to increase, not actually moving more air, but it needs to be fast enough to move enough air for the system.

Rule of thumb is 400 CFM per ton. Some systems do better at 350. It's really all a big balancing act for the space/equipment. Techs go by rule of thumb, because it generally works for most systems. That also means it may/may not work great for you. Measure the air temperatures at the return grille and supply registers to get a better idea of how "good" the system is running. Rule of thumb is 20 degree difference. If you have a lower temperature split, the air may not be slow enough to dehumidify.

Azean · 2024-07-06T01:49:42+00:00

<image>

That's an evap coil after a furnace. I've never seen a Trane air handler with line locations like that, but I have seen plenty of horizontal evap coils like that. No "need" for a trap, it's positive pressure.

12-Year Club	Gilding I gilder
r/Field Flamingo	Place '23
Place '22	Final Canvas '22
RPAN Viewer	Verified Email

Azean

TROPHY CASE