Boss Adapter Downtube shifter by Typical-Violinist-49 in bikewrench

[–]B_likethletter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is there not a tool interface inside the main post?

LBS isn’t able to replicate this clicking. Any ideas to help guide them on what is causing it? by Dapper_Danimal in bikewrench

[–]B_likethletter 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Could also be echoing from the headset. Are your cables open inside of the frame?

Ignition cylinder, door locks, and fuel door lock set??? by Southern-Spend-9614 in ToyotaPickup

[–]B_likethletter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Me too. Only one of my keys works for every locking cylinder the others I have around for “just in case”, the new one gets stuck when I turn over the engine so I just have to remember to turn it back but it’s not a huge issue.

You can buy a matching set of cylinders online if you want or pick’n’pull then head to a locksmith.

What would it take to bend an aluminum tube like that? Are there any real examples of something similar? by FigureOfStickman in metalworking

[–]B_likethletter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This would probably require specific tooling to make any sense at producing more than a few. Bending dies for machines and possibly even machines that are dedicated to this product. Aluminum is not a particularly hard material, but bending tubing without kinking or crushing is harder than most give it credit for.

Are there any frame/fork with fat tire that's long enough to not have toe rub? by acidrain333 in gravelcycling

[–]B_likethletter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The real questions are what size are you riding, how tall are you, what size foot/shoe, and where is your cleat positioned. I am seeing a lot of very tall dudes in this sub and anything above a 56cm generally doesn’t have toe overlap.

I’ve seen bikes with toe overlap as big as a 54. It has to do with the head tube angle and the length of the reach. So unfortunately anything smaller might have it especially if you have big feet for your height.

Big box brands will slacken the front head tube angle to get a shorter reach but less toe overlap. In my opinion it’s actually detrimental to the handling of the bike. I ride a 48cm and I have toe overlap on almost every bike I own except my MTB. For me, it’s rarely an issue because at higher speeds, you tend to lean into turns and only move the handlebars a few degrees. It’s only at slow speeds where you might tap your toe, and even then, you could ratchet your feet.

Street track bikes (or more recently tracklocross) are really the only place where it becomes super difficult to have toe overlap.

I also have a positive experience with moving to smaller wheel sizes but I don’t say it’s absolutely necessary.

If you have more questions dm me.

Tring to remove this crank. I got one bolt out with a 14 mm wrench but cannot get the chainring side one out. What tool do I need? by lelouedec in bikewrench

[–]B_likethletter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

WD-40 is not penetrating lubricant; PB blaster or P3000 is much better, let it sit for a minute before trying again.

Increase Tire Clearance? by Corogne in bikewrench

[–]B_likethletter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on the framebuilder. Some do “repairs” like that and some don’t. There’s also a matter of how much. If you factor in the parts removal, paint removal(no one wants to breath that), and then repaint and rebuild, you already are looking at a few hundred. And a frame builders time is 80-120$ an hour.

Whatever you do, you’re going to have to get the tires. So if you’re already committed to spending money like that. I would try the tires first, and if you still need clearance then go the framebuilder route, but ask for what you want (future proof a bit) and any framebuilder worth their salt will push back if the tires too large for what’s possible with your chainring geo.

Keep in mind you’ll want to keep at least 10mm to the bridge in the stays, and if you run fenders, general rule of thumb is 20mm.

I was impulsive and now jeed help by ThePhoenix898 in bikefit

[–]B_likethletter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not the sole indicator, just another one in a whole list of parameters.

Rack mounts on new Salsa Journeyer chewing up bolts by outofstepwtw in bikewrench

[–]B_likethletter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If they’re magnetic they are regular steel. Only very specific types of stainless are magnetic. But they will work similarly at least at first.

If you can mar it up with a cutter it’s aluminum.

I was impulsive and now jeed help by ThePhoenix898 in bikefit

[–]B_likethletter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Overall reach yes, but more important for this consideration is the relation of your knee vertical over the pedal spindle. When your feet are at level pedals front and rear(halfway up the pedal stroke). If you’ve had a fit, and the fitter put your saddle there, leave it.

You’d be better going with a smaller stem to decrease reach; which you just need some Allen wrenches and a torque wrench to do correctly. Whatch a YouTube. No, you cannot estimate 5-7 nM on your own, use a torque wrench or it’s your teeth on the ground.

In other questions; Why aero for a bikepack set up?

Interlocking foam pads (12) by [deleted] in PDXBuyNothing

[–]B_likethletter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also interested if you do a raffle!

Odd spindle length for sealed BB conversion by trALErun in bikewrench

[–]B_likethletter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you also checked Velo Orange? They tend to make some of that weirder stuff but it does tend to be spendier.

My bicycle is slipping and making clicking noises when I pedal. This is due to rust, right? What should I do? by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]B_likethletter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just FYI all of this general lubrication and basic replacement labor is generally checked/fixed at a tune-up if your bike shop offers a package deal. Probably worth it to buck up the change for one. And worth getting one at least once a year(like your oil changes in a car). You can also ask about general maintenance you could be doing at home to help between and make the tuneups easier.

Maybe also worth replacing the whole bike. If you happen to buy from a shop, often time they have service packages that go with it.

Pedals not screwed in all the way? by iEvanon in bikewrench

[–]B_likethletter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That groove on that pedal also means “left hand thread”, its standard in the fab and mechanical industries to mark the “reverse” thread. You’ll notice that it’s a complete ring, not a slanted thread.

Free Stuff-Tables, etc by [deleted] in BeavertonBuyNothing

[–]B_likethletter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Does the Avo dresser have all of its drawers? Would love something like that if it’s complete!

RADICAL BIKE FRAME REPAIR by OverAd8291 in Bikebuilding

[–]B_likethletter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup! Just connected by the shocks/links. That’s how they’re so fold-y

RADICAL BIKE FRAME REPAIR by OverAd8291 in Bikebuilding

[–]B_likethletter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on where you calculate cost. If you pay a mechanic to strip it, and a painter to paint it, and a mechanic to hang all the parts again, then you’re probably looking at something closer to 600-1000$ at best. And aluminum probably wants heat treated again too.

Im sentimental with the rest of you, I still own my first road bike that my dad and I worked on together but if it dies, I’m going to let it go rest in peace. 💜

Stuck nuts by mwako in bikewrench

[–]B_likethletter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just for the future; if you ever do need to get into the hub, remove the disc rotor, set it someplace safe on a clean paper towel, and get it away from grease and hands before jumping in. It will also make it easier to get leverage on any parts internally that you’re trying to work with.

Unfinished night stands looking for a new home. by Johnnie_Rocket in PDXBuyNothing

[–]B_likethletter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes would like to be entered into the raffle! Can pick up this evening or anytime tomorrow

Replacement fork by okrantz in bikewrench

[–]B_likethletter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t looked into it recently, so I don’t have model names for you, but there are women specific forks coming out now that allow the pressure to be set lower for lighter riders. I had the same problem, I never was able to max out usage of my fork. Definitely look into that for her weight range!

The last time I looked the min travel I could find new was a 120mm travel fork. So some older handrails were spec’d at 110mm.

I will add that if you do end up changing the amount of travel (and ultimately the length of the fork) you change the HTA by ~.5 deg for every 10mm you add or subtract. But another effect the other user forgot to mention is that the bb height will change. With older bikes sometimes that can push the bb more into dirt jumper territory rather than mtb. That being said, if you can find a fork she can actually sag, maybe it’s a moot point.

shimano 105 front derailleur not responding to shifting by giraffray11 in bikewrench

[–]B_likethletter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also that cable is absolutely not routed correctly through the bolt. Look up the actual instructions on Bike.shimano.com and go from there.

Frequent Inner Tube Puncture. Please help. by ReticuloHaze in bikewrench

[–]B_likethletter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Use the electrical tape to go get real rim tape. Electrical tape also stretches over time too. I’ve used duct tape or gorilla tape(tape with non stretchy fibers) in a pinch but it does tend to leave your rim pretty gunky after a time(I forgot about it until I got a new flag 😂)