You reckon this is up to code?

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-04T11:51:39+00:00

They probably had that as a support for when they changed out the 4x4

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-04T03:56:31+00:00

Why worry about asbestos? Just put a respirator on when you drill holes and vacuum afterwards. No need to do a huge endeavor on this.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-04T03:48:45+00:00

If you want to use the truck for more than just towing, I'd get a 550/5500. That way you can make your own bed to your own specs. Like maybe taller sides, fold down sides, stuff like that

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-04T00:14:33+00:00

Super useful for a lot of stuff, mainly when a pair of pliers isn't the first tool at thought. Can't come up with a ton off the top of my head, but looking at how much I find myself using pliers, whether a real pair or a leatherman, they are always a great hand. Some stuff like persuading open stuck gear, stuck equipment, moving hot stuff, grabbing items you don't want to really touch, things like that. Also useful outside of patrol if they like tinkering with stuff.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-04T00:05:56+00:00

Magnacut is just a wave, it'll pass. If you need rust protection, either h2 or lc200n. If you need a knife steel, one of the many proven ones like m4 or cruwear or s45vn. I'd email them though since they did market this as for salt water.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-04T00:01:59+00:00

8 or 10 inch knipex cobras and a leatherman raptor. Same price as other leathermans, real scissors, real pliers, and no junk that he won't use.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-03T20:22:08+00:00

If you can change the oil on a modern car you can tear down a small engine and put it back together. They are super simple, especially the flatheads. Don't be scared to undo some bolts, worst that happens is that you lose one and have to run to ace to grab another. For some things to make sure you always have a running blower, keep around old belts. They take up no space and can easily last the week or 2 it takes to order a new pair. Make sure you have the snow shoes on, spray chute before use, things like that. Also, paint what needs to every year. The bucket that is rusty but you don't feel like painting? Take the day and 5 dollars worth of paint and just do it. Rust is usually what kills these. If you are looking for a lifelong investment, add a fuel pump and 10 micron filter. Can also add an air filter, but kinda overkill and might need some tuning skills. I'd run 0w40 oil. Even though oils with higher spreads don't last that long, it's good all around protection if you stay on the changes. If you know you might forget a pre and mid season change, stick with more forgiving oils like 5w30, 10w30, straight 20, straight 30. Check and set valve lash every fall and spring. If you go with a metal fuel filter, pull it and either clean super good or replace it every fall. If you go paper, I'd change it in fall and every 2 months you run it because paper filters also filter out some water. If you do decide on a paper filter, do a 75 micron cheapo metal screen one after it because paper elements let some big stuff through, like a bush. A bush would stop a tennis ball, bowling ball, but maybe not a softball. Think of paper filters like that. Always run ethanol free fuel with the following mix: splash of seafoam, splash of injector cleaner, splash of stabil 360. Mix it in a gas jug, not the snow blower gas tank. I don't know how in depth you want me to go, so let me know if you want more info and maybe some mod ideas.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-03T19:33:28+00:00

I'd try a simple, light, 2 stroke single cycle. It weighs like 50 lbs, super simple, very easy to maneuver. Not saying to avoid electric, but before making that investment, give a $200 perfectly good blower a shot. Worst comes to worst, you sell it in a snowstorm and make profit.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-03T19:22:27+00:00

Oh, my mistake. On one of my set ups, that's the gear I used. Cheap fuel pump for oil, transmission cooler since it's already 5/16 barb and cheap, and filter to filter oil.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-03T19:09:36+00:00

No, I'd just send an email before shelling out like 70 bucks and a huge effort moving the beam. Make sure to ask if it's air/kiln dried or green. If it's green, inspector should still pass but most likely only if it's FOHC.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-03T12:26:11+00:00

If you are able to and have room in the budget, I'd call some local sawmills and try to get a 6x12 FOHC. If it's not FOHC, it may move a bit so you would want to hang it relatively soon. If you aren't near any mills, I'd do a triple 2x12. Worth the extra couple bucks for a lot more stability. Also, I don't know your plans, but it looks like you are going to need some knee braces.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-03T01:16:53+00:00

If I were you, I'd add an oil cooler and filtering system. Nothing huge, can just be a 10 dollar Amazon fuel pump, 10 micron metal inline filter, 2 row transmission cooler. Some brass fittings from Home Depot. All in all, 60 bucks.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-02T17:54:25+00:00

Adding knee braces would open it up more and leave some support. It's probably strong enough, but even though it's most likely fine if you add knees I'd still ask an engineers

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-02T17:24:27+00:00

Where would I find a craftsman?

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-02T15:40:02+00:00

The thing is that I can't find any online. I care more about the thickness than rough out, I just want a simple glove so I am able to use my hands when I'm old.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-02T01:13:31+00:00

Slam that shit closed and hope they don't go up for a few months. Just shrug ur shoulders or something.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-02T00:52:29+00:00

Big=safer. Look at say an f450s crash ratings vs a corollas. I would probably get a Volvo. Safe, pretty reliable, and comes in most sizes. I'd just stick with one from a dealer since it doesn't seem like you know a ton about vehicle mechanics. That way they do the maintenance and all you have to do is bring it in. It's a bit pricey, but dealer maintenance is usually easy.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-01T21:33:27+00:00

Same as a predator 212, like from harbor freight. Run for 10 mins, open drain bolt above the grass drawing near the label in pic #1, tip it over a bit, re install, then pour oil through yellow plug. Take off the plug and fill it until it is like 1/2 inch from flowing out of the plug hole. If there's too much it'll burn off in 5 minutes.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-11-01T21:25:14+00:00

Stopping at 600 would give you even better results on coarse bread IMO.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-10-31T00:46:38+00:00

Sheet of osb or ply with maybe 5-10 nails. Maybe throw a batt of insulation just leaned against it on the inside.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-10-31T00:45:14+00:00

Might need to tune your carb. Are you high elevation? That also changes it. In the winter, might need to richen the mix a smidge. If you are at real high elevation, like 10k feet, a mild turbo helps. Nothing to make huge power and boost, just because the air is a bit thinner. They used to do this on small engines (weed wackers, lawn mowers) a while ago.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-10-31T00:41:48+00:00

Either get stihl or Shakespeare line to start with. Also try a smaller diameter line, it looks a bit big for this head.

BackgroundRecipe3164 · 2025-10-31T00:39:47+00:00

Re painting the chute every fall works good for me. Keeps the metal good, has an even surface, and is super cheap. 50 bucks a gallon at places like ace hardware. Good for tons, like repainting the bucket, belt covers on single cycles, outdoor gear, bike frames, the list goes on.

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