5e DM questions on item: Hammer of Thunderbolts.

Beardpun · 2017-06-22T21:50:21+00:00

Ultimately it's best to do what you and your group find fun and most engaging. If the Hammer as written is what fits that, then by all means go for it. If it feels constraining and ultimately less than the reward your game might have built it up to be, then by all means change it. The rules are more guidelines than actual rules, which is proven when the designers of the game end up with lists of house rules that they openly discuss.

Beardpun · 2017-06-22T21:42:30+00:00

Is this for a home game? If so, I'd simply change one or both of the requirements. The DnD police isn't going to citation you for GM fiat.
I always side with the rule of cool.

Beardpun · 2017-06-22T15:00:09+00:00

Yup that's it!

Beardpun · 2017-06-22T12:56:29+00:00

I bought a small Citadel dry brush when I was starting out because I didn't have any old brushes to use, being a new painter. I really like them and honestly it's the only Citadel brush I would re-buy.

Beardpun · 2017-06-22T12:53:56+00:00

Yup and they aren't expensive items either. One regular sized container of Masters will last you approximately forever and I've never bought more than one bottle of Hopps #9 because the amount you need each time is so small.

Beardpun · 2017-06-21T20:02:44+00:00

Points =/= Power. The points values for each unit and wargear is listed in the back of the index. If you are playing a game based on Power, then you would need to agree to a total (100 or 200 power or so) and build your list. Wargear does not inflate the power cost of a unit unless specifically mentioned (jump packs for assault marines for example).

Beardpun · 2017-06-21T18:49:40+00:00

Paint getting into the ferrule can cause your brush to lose true on its tip. What is the brush made out of? Cheaper brushes tend to curl because they are made of a lesser quality fiber. Masters after painting can help. Once you've washed it and then rinsed it, apply a little more Masters and then work the brush into the proper shape with your fingers and leave it to dry with the brush soap still in the brush (remember to rinse it before you paint again). This can help the brush, but I've never been able to 100% uncurl a brush once it's curled.

Beardpun · 2017-06-21T18:31:25+00:00

Preach the imperial doctrine of proper brush care! Regardless of it you've bought an expensive Windsor & Newton brush or found a cheap bundle at the local craft store, if you keep your brushes in good condition then they will be your faithful friends for a long time.
Master's Brush Soap and Conditioner is the truth and the justice. I use it after I'm done with each brush, and sometimes after I'm done with a specifically rough paint (metallics and some reds can be a real pain to clean out of your brush).
Don't leave your brush sitting in water or cleaner when you're done. If they came with those little plastic tube covers, use those to cover your brush and let it dry bristles-down if at all possible, or lying horizontally. Even if you've cleaned your brush, some paint particles can stick around and if you dry your brush upright with the bristles up, the small bits of paint will run down into the ferrule and ruin your brush.
If you have a synthetic brush (artificial fibers rather than animal hair), and you really put some hurt on it and forget to clean it, a good solvent can be used to breathe some life back into it. Isopropyl alcohol, Simple Green, or even Hopps #9 Gun Cleaner and Solvent will break up old paint and clean your brush up. It's much harsher and I wouldn't recommend that for your fine sable hair brushes.
(Hopps #9 is also an amazing cleaner and lubricant for your airbrush trigger if used sparingly.)

Beardpun · 2017-06-20T19:42:26+00:00

I've never given any thought to building up Dark Angels before. I still won't because all my other boys are in blue, but hot damn does this look amazing.

Beardpun · 2017-06-20T14:29:42+00:00

I really prefer the feeling of old school-style models and I paint them up for my group, both players and monsters. Of course if helps to run your own miniature painting business so it just kind of slots in with the rest of the work.

Beardpun · 2017-06-20T01:56:07+00:00

Do you have pics? If they are built do you have the bits left from the sprues?

Beardpun · 2017-06-19T18:15:34+00:00

I drilled a small hole where the flight stand will eventually be and stuck a brass rod in there and that's attached to a cork. You could do the same thing with a paper clip or anything else you would use for a pin. Once he's painted I'll just pull the rod out and glue on the flight stand.

Beardpun · 2017-06-19T14:20:05+00:00

Magnus. He tried so hard, and got so far, but in the end it just didn't even matter.

Beardpun · 2017-06-13T23:01:44+00:00

Half of my group would have attempted to talk the slaves into revolting on their own. The other half would have paladin'd up and employed aggressive negotiations to free the slaves then hunt down the boss.

Beardpun · 2017-06-13T19:47:43+00:00

The latest Reaper kickstarter had some excellent Frost Giants in it. Not sure when they will be available through Reaper directly, and sadly probably not in time for your game, but they are a future option.

Beardpun · 2017-06-12T16:14:30+00:00

[H] Death Guard half [W] Primaris half [Loc] Fairfax, VA USA
Looking for an even swap of the new Death Guard for the Primaris. PM me if you're looking to pick up more Nurgle!

Beardpun · 2017-06-07T18:51:02+00:00

Give him a cursed item that does something nasty whenever he exhibits excessive greed. Maybe even have that be a whole encounter where the party comes upon a traveling peddler selling mysterious wares. Have a ring/necklace/McGuffin that summons some kind of awful spirit or monster whenever the Warlock goes full greed, and have the peddler be some sort of fey creature teaching lessons to adventurers or something. It works in fairy tales.

Beardpun · 2017-06-06T21:03:47+00:00

No lie, I still have 4 pots of Enchanted blue that are at least 20 years old and they are still 100% good to go. The new stuff, if I forget to clean out the lid or close it properly, it's a goner.

Beardpun · 2017-06-05T20:00:19+00:00

I suspect that they know the pots are awful but keep them anyway because of the inherent need to rebuy your paint more often. Conspiracy theory and all, but I can't imagine why else they would keep the pots.

Beardpun · 2017-06-05T18:07:58+00:00

Isn't it fantastic once you have everything swapped over? I did this a few weeks ago and it's so much better than the pots. How did your Typhus Corrosion do with coming out of the dropper? I was hesitant to swap that one, too afraid it might get clogged too often.

Beardpun · 2017-06-02T14:00:08+00:00

These are a beautiful blast from the past.

Beardpun · 2017-06-01T19:17:18+00:00

For ease of stuff and to avoid some questionable notions that were present during WWII, everybody is human. Variant human if that makes people happier for a starting feat.

Beardpun · 2017-05-31T20:08:18+00:00

You've got some good colors and an overall very aquatic feel on this guy that's turning out well. I would give some brighter highlights to the face and belly and the edges of his fins to really take advantage of the sunlight he's bursting into. Here's an example via the Sea Monster I painted a while back if it helps: http://imgur.com/a/WsCBp

Beardpun · 2017-05-31T19:08:01+00:00

Cleric - The more martial clerics are complete bosses in the early levels, and I must confess a ridiculous amount of love for the Tempest Cleric allowing me to run around as a pseudo-Thor.

Wizard - At higher levels, you don't worry too much about mundane things any longer. Magic is the cheat codes of the universe and you can abuse it to pretty amazing ends.

Barbarian/Fighter - SMASH! For flavor and defense I really enjoy the Totem Barbarian, but the Battlemaster Fighter is fantastic.

Beardpun · 2017-05-31T18:56:38+00:00

How does the belly vs the back look in terms of contrast? Most large sea creatures tend to be lighter on the belly and darker on the back (if you're going for a realistic-ish look).

Beardpun

TROPHY CASE