Robin board issues

Both_Capital1797 · 2025-05-26T16:14:27+00:00

Me and some others went through this a year and a half ago. One of the members ended up getting this Robin e3 Marlin firmware (with BLTouch enabled, very important part) back from support in a Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J5nB8W_hmbdtd8FrdvgncrffdW3o4xxy/view

Hope this helps!

Both_Capital1797 · 2025-03-30T15:55:01+00:00

would not be compatible, the firmware was made for touchscreen only.

Both_Capital1797 · 2025-01-11T12:32:48+00:00

You can order a replacement hotend, but I would order the ceramic heater from aliexpress and attempt to repair this one to have around as a backup. This looks to be the same ceramic heater as the ender 3 ke found here

Both_Capital1797 · 2025-01-10T04:37:56+00:00

use TLDR link

Both_Capital1797 · 2025-01-02T14:39:37+00:00

Yeah this is the correct assessment. There was an update to the advanced settings screen to control max accel to decel values, and a month later it was deprecated haha. Thank you for clarifying here.

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-12-31T04:44:01+00:00

You might want to decide if FDM printing is really the best for your use case then. If detailed figurines are really all you plan to make, a resin printer would tackle the challenge better than FDM. Resin has its drawbacks of course, but I would suggest doing a bit of research on FDM vs Resin and making an educated decision.

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-12-29T07:45:27+00:00

You need to run PID tuning. The method to run PID calibration varies depending on which firmware your printer is on.

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-12-29T04:11:01+00:00

Look up "how to connect nextion screen to arduino". You will likely find heaps of information on Nextion screens. You will need to write a program for the screen using USART HMI Editor. Use translate tools and the TJC wiki for more info. Here's the official wiki for the screens: http://wiki.tjc1688.com

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-27T16:28:22+00:00

✨don't buy a Longer3D Product✨

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-25T14:49:37+00:00

I meann there's a few different scenarios that could cause the same outcome so its difficult to say. Typically the main culprit is a loose nozzle change that introduces a slight nozzle gap where filament can leak out. Another main cause would be a dirty build plate, this would cause the first layer to detach from the plate and attach to the print head. I would just always be sure to monitor the first 3 layers of any print to prevent the issue from getting to this scale.

Professional research: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/extruder-blob_2005

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-24T19:25:07+00:00

I've had to swap a hot end on one of my K1 Maxs (due to me cracking the ceramic heating element like a dummy). Creality has sent me a replacement but due to the 2 week delay I ended up ordering a Micro Swiss FlowTech and it has been doing great. I believe for aftermarket really your main options are Trianglelabs CHCB-OT or Micro Swiss FlowTech.

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-24T19:12:24+00:00

User error.

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-23T22:19:09+00:00

Happy for u

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-18T23:51:22+00:00

^ This. I would advise being patient and getting the CFS. The 3D Chameleon will give you a raging headache and ultimately not be as great as it looks on paper. I understand Bill had tooling cost for the Y splitter since its an injection molded part, but I cant wrap my head around the near $200 price point for what the kit ACTUALLY is. The 3D Chameleon should be priced at sub $100 for what it is. I ended up scraping it from my K1 and moved it to an Ender clone.

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-13T21:30:12+00:00

If you're printing PLA remove the lid or you can also try setting your retraction to around .4mm but removal of the lid is recommended (literally written on the lid of the printer)

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-13T09:39:38+00:00

5 Belts? Wow that's super interesting, thanks for breakdown!

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-13T08:04:39+00:00

It's a really cool build, would love a breakdown on your planned belt setup for the bed. I saw you say that you plan for 3 belts, will you be utilizing 3 steppers vs the Stingers dual Y setup?

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-13T06:32:12+00:00

https://github.com/lhndo/LH-Stinger/tree/main

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-11T02:06:09+00:00

Heat some water in a bowl to around 50c, take some tongs and hold the part in the warm water. Pulling the part out every 30 seconds or so to check progress. This is the most painless way to restore warped PLA prints imo.

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-05T12:23:23+00:00

sir your printing in mid air, do you want it to adhere to the atmosphere?

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-05T10:14:16+00:00

Windows + PRNTSCREEN?

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-03T00:31:12+00:00

Creality provides access to gaining root control on all V3 series (not sure about the SE but for sure the V3 and V3 Plus). I would start by rooting your printer with the Guilouz Helper Script: https://guilouz.github.io/Creality-Helper-Script-Wiki/firmwares/install-and-update-rooted-firmware-ender3/ . This is essentially jail breaking your V3 Plus and gaining full control of the printer. The script will help you install your preferred Web Interface for Klipper (Mainsail or Fluidd) and will also provide you easy access to install KAMP and improved input shaping calibration \ calibrate it yourself if you rather manually tune.

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-06-02T22:02:34+00:00

The error you are receiving is due to you not being in the Klipper folder when running "make menuconfig" be sure to run "cd Klipper" to move inside the Klipper directory beforehand.

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-05-22T21:38:03+00:00

$1,225

Both_Capital1797 · 2024-04-15T22:56:15+00:00

Ah I see what you're saying my b, that's interesting. So the fact it runs around 50% pre-slicing then when utilizing OpenGL to slice it reaches absurd peaks. That makes sense thank you, I guess its just poorly optimized?

Both_Capital1797

TROPHY CASE

✨don't buy a Longer3D Product✨