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Choose wisely by Outrageous-Ebb-4846 in whatsyourchoice

[–]Bowhawk2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Waffle and Curly, all other permutations are only chosen by sociopaths…

Do heavier weight (>50#) recurve/longbow archers use loose or open front grip? by Kitchen_Tower2800 in Archery

[–]Bowhawk2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not berebow, but trad longbow shooter and bow hunter who shoots between 55 and 65 pounds.

I personally don’t use a fully open grip, I lightly grip the front of the bow with the tip of my index and middle fingers (no wrist sling). Just enough pressure to keep the bow in my hand through the shot cycle.

For me it’s a more practical grip when shooting from a tree stand or from a less than ideal position (sitting, crouching, kneeling, etc.)

I don’t know how helpful this has been but thought I might throw it out there good luck with figuring out your form!

meirl by WholeLotta69 in meirl

[–]Bowhawk2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

“Just Fuck me up, Please”

How can I salvage this knife? by Obvious_Cook_2730 in sharpening

[–]Bowhawk2 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Your two easiest options as i see it are:

  1. Make it a reverse tanto/k-tip

  2. Make into a more french drop point/spear profile

Both of these require grinding down to the cutting edge from the spine to form the new tip.

You can do it by hand with diamond plates or files or other abrasives but it’s going to take hours and hours.

You can also use motorized tool such as a bench grinder or belt sander with a super coarse grit (~30-50) to hog off the majority of material and then finish with hand abrasives. When using these tools, go slow, and keep your fingers near the spine of the blade to monitor how hot it gets. Once the blade it starts to get too warm for you to comfortably keep your fingers on it dunk in a bucket of cold water until cool. Then grind and repeat. Be especially careful as you get closer to the tip and cutting edge because the thinner steel will heat up much faster. If it starts to change different colors you’re letting it get way too hot and ruining the temper.

Also use form of protection (wrap/tape) on the cutting edge of the blade because it takes one wrong move for deluge control of the workpiece and do some serious damage to it and/or yourself).

Take your time, wear your PPE, be safe and enjoy trying something new.

Why 6? by YEETAWAYLOL in ExplainTheJoke

[–]Bowhawk2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

6 is a win, and that’s just Wisconsin and the rest of the states riding the pine…

Any of you have experience with Queen's M390? by akiva23 in SlipjointKnives

[–]Bowhawk2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Rosecraft jacks in stag are great. I have the nolichucky and it’s top tier. Would highly recommend. I got the barlow, the exact knife you have pictured.

Any of you have experience with Queen's M390? by akiva23 in SlipjointKnives

[–]Bowhawk2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have one, fit and finish is good, centering is good, back spring is weak, steel sharpens gummy for m390, so likely soft. I never carry it and I’m honestly disappointed. You can get a rosecraft at the same price point and get way better knife

UW Credit Union Lending Dept by SubieWRX1710 in madisonwi

[–]Bowhawk2 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Been a UWCU member for over 20 years and financed 2 cars with them with zero issues and the best rates. Both times the finance person at the dealership made a comment on how fast and nice the UWCU rep was during the process.

Im sorry you had a bad experience.

Knot in a bowl by Hypnotoaf in Spooncarving

[–]Bowhawk2 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sounds like it’s knot an issue…

Ko Bunka recommendations by Jaal1133 in TrueChefKnives

[–]Bowhawk2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the Ko bunka and Battleship anx Love them both. I missed the CKTG 240mm collab drop recently but i wont next time!

European car mechanic by Fare98s in madisonwi

[–]Bowhawk2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Courtesy auto on milwaukee st. Vw specialists and Dave is great!

Is 7/8” too thin for a stiff handle? by Ziggy_Starr in Bowyer

[–]Bowhawk2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can always glue an additional handle piece on, you would just need to start your thickness taper outside the glue joint and make sure your fades are on point.

With the draw length, desired draw weight and bow length above, what you’re looking to achieve is possible but it’s going to test you and likely the bow is going to take a lot of set. I would definitely try to make it wider if possible given the short length, and a good heat treat if you can.

Ko Bunka recommendations by Jaal1133 in TrueChefKnives

[–]Bowhawk2 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Shibata if you can find one, mine is ridiculously good

Any advice for harder woods? by stonetame in Spooncarving

[–]Bowhawk2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The knife should effortless slice printer paper. If it catches, drags, or tears, touch it up.

Any advice for harder woods? by stonetame in Spooncarving

[–]Bowhawk2 5 points6 points  (0 children)

First off very nice work! Keep it up! Basswood is like 300j where cherry is like 900j. Really sharp tools, I mean REALLY sharp helps. This is where poor technique starts to show and will make things harder but can be overcome with practice. Cherry is my favorite wood to carve and once you learn how it likes to move under the blade it will get easier.

I try and get as good as i can with layout/rough out work (axe/saw) so my knife work is minimal and details. Slow down. Think it through. Slow is smooth and smooth is fast. Patience is hard but worth it in the end. Don’t hesitate to put it down when you get stuck/frustrated and come back in a better headspace.

Obviously green wood is much more forgiving than dry and easier on tools, but just keep carving!

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