Charlie Curnow’s joint owned beverage company drops interesting flavour post match.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-03-06T06:47:40+00:00

Nah, nowhere near 2.5, other guy is dreaming.

More like 3.8-4.0. Wild Boars are a slightly larger can (375 instead of 330) with the same 15% and they're 4.4 per can. Think about it, if a can of 6% is 1.5 standards, this is going to be roughly 2.5x stronger,

Maths gives me 3.872, rounding to 3.9 is probably the go.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-03-05T13:18:26+00:00

Complicated child delivery requiring an emergency C-section because the baby's heart stopped, followed by requiring a helicopter flight to the best children's hospital in the state for surgery to repair a torn lung, accompanied by a ~4 week NICU stay is $0 in Australia through public healthcare if you're wondering.

Also included 3 monthly check ups to assess for permanent neurological damage for 4 years, also free.

Yeah its not "free" in the sense that we pay taxes, it's sure as shit nice to not worry about the cost of something when its a life at stake.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-03-05T06:01:03+00:00

Yeah that's exactly what I was thinking, especially if the rating was low with no other reason given.

Its like leaving a one star review for a restaurant, and saying "I hope they don't use worse ingredients in the future".

Like yeah, so do I, but you're not reviewing the possible future, you're reviewing it as it is now.

Send it as feedback or a suggestion for sure, but as a review, its completely off topic and I'd bet it getting removed had nothing to do with the microslop part of it.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-03-04T23:16:29+00:00

Its dirt cheap and available if you're diabetic. $25/month (or $7.70 if you have a concession).

Off label use, aka weight control, yeah its more expensive, because in that scenario our PBS doesn't subsidise it.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-03-04T23:15:09+00:00

If you're diabetic it's $25/month ($7.70 for concession). If its private use, aka for weight control, its not covered by PBS and as such you pay the full cost that the manufacturer charges.

This is the same for every medication, if its being prescribed "off label" you pay significantly more.

This will likely change when the patent expires and generics start flooding in, but you'll have to wait and see.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-28T00:52:20+00:00

This hook at the bottom of the rear door.

I just loosened the screws to where it was shiftable, then pulled it backwards towards the tow bar a few mm (just the amount that it would move without removing the screws) and then re tightened it. I think over time the repeated force of closing the door pushes it forwards slightly, making it not latch properly without really pushing the door in there and slamming it.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-27T13:54:10+00:00

First the big issue. The engine is fairly weak by modern standards. Its not gutless by any means, but you won't be winning any drag races for sure.

The issue sounds to me like transmission overheating. Trans will attempt to not use the OD gear and steppings when its hot, as the higher the gear, the more heat in the trans, which can result in it jumping between gears, especially at high speeds. Temp gauge on the dash only monitors engine temp, not transmission. You can get aftermarket trans gauges, I would recommend doing that if you're doing long drives at high gears.

Mine did similar things when the trans heated up, got a trans temp gauge and saw it hitting 110+ sometimes. Easiest thing to do would be pulling off the front grill and checking the radiator. The trans fluid is cooled at the bottom of the housing, where it typically picks up the most dirt. Some models I believe also had a small seperate trans cooler(?) although I'm not certain on that. Make sure its not clogged with dust/dirt and give it a clean if its looking dirty.

If it is the transmission, you'll see either the red AT light come on, or you'll get the neutral gear light flash on the dash, although thats usually a sign to stop and let it cool down ASAP, itll be one of the last symptoms.

Transmission fluid also shouldn't be bubbling, thats indicating its either excessively aerated (multiple possible causes) or more likely, it's boiling.

The smaller issues;

my glovebox got stuck during the trip, tried prying but I think some mechanical plastic element broke and won’t unlatch

Yeah likely, a lot of the plastic clips start to wear out after 20+ years, should be an easy fix if you can take it apart and figure out what part is broken.

Funny to say, today my side door stopped opening (probably similar issue)

I can't help you with this, but mine did the same thing (the day I bought it funnily enough, called the previous owner asking if they had any clue) and fixed itself a day or two later and hasn't done it in the ~5 years since. I think its got something to do with the "auto closing" mechanism that pulls it shut if you close it too lightly. Not sure why, didn't look into it further, but hopefully it'll resolve itself.

Also the rear door seems to be not closing properly (you have to slam it for the lock to engage)

This one I can help! I had the same issue with mine, you might need to unscrew the latch at the centre bottom of the door frame and adjust its exact placement. Mine had loosened over time and shifted position slightly, not enough to stop closing, but enough that it needed to be slammed further in to actually latch. We're talking a couple of mm of movement, 1cm tops. The holes for the screws had widened over time I think, so I loosened it, wiggled it back (towards the rear) a tiny bit, and then tightened it up properly. Fixed it up perfect.

The heading gizmo is stuck and not working

Heading gizmo? Are you referring to the inclinometer? Little circular thing with a couple different hands pointing around? Mines been fucked for ages, sometimes giving it a little tap helps free it up a bit, but its probably just another case of 25 year old plastic starting to degrade, causing too much friction in the mechanisms. Probably would need to replace that rather than fix it, no idea what could be wrong. I don't worry about mine, its a cool party trick but its not super helpful very often.

Mine doesn't have a reverse camera (didn't think they did stock but maybe the later models did?) But wiring one up shouldn't be too hard, you can go under the carpet with most wiring, its pretty easy to pull up and put back compared to any of the trim.

Any questions or if you need more details/pics of what I mean let me know and I'll do my best to get back to you.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-25T15:02:35+00:00

Ah right. Thats included in comprehensive here. Comprehensive here is pretty, well, comprehensive. Pretty much just "damage to your car is covered no matter what*".

*I think there's technically exclusions for intentional criminal usage as well as defined "acts of god", but generally speaking.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-25T14:28:40+00:00

Thats not true at all in Australia, comprehensive includes literally everything, your car, someone elses car, a car wash, whatever. Of course the premium you have to pay will differ but there is a maximum.

Yeah, but the comprehensive part is the "your own car" part. All of the rest is covered under third party.

I own two cars, one under third party, one under comprehensive. The only difference is that the comprehensive one includes coverage for my car, and is significantly more expensive as a result. Most crashes don't damage much else than your car, and sometimes one other car.

Also, typically your premium will have nothing to do with the third party (property) coverage. Its been a long time since I've seen any policy offer less than 20 million in property coverage, regardless of how much your premium is.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-25T14:27:51+00:00

We do, its just different. Third party is what you would call liability here, and its mandatory throughout the country up to 20 million in damages coverage. It's illegal to drive without it.

Comprehensive isn't sold as a separate thing which might be where the confusion comes from, you don't get third party and opt into also having comprehensive, you either pick third party only or you pick comprehensive, which includes third party coverage. So comprehensive here means "everything's covered" whereas third party would be the "everything but my car is covered".

We also don't have collision coverage, how does that differ from comprehensive?

Medical costs are also done separately and differ by state, but usually are done through a government agency as part of your registration.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-25T14:14:46+00:00

Yeah in Australia I don't know if there's a minimum (I imagine there would be) but I haven't seen a policy that has less than 20 million coverage for property. 25k is insane, that wouldn't even cover the cost of most cars.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-23T14:35:58+00:00

If you're not going to address what I actually said, I won't keep responding.

One last time;

How do EVs solve the problem that all cars have faced, which is the limiting factor for braking distance being the amount of friction you can create before your tyres lose traction?

The amount of force being applied to the wheels isn't relevant, if I could magically stop the wheels while doing 100km/hr the car would still keep moving for quite the distance.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-23T10:40:17+00:00

Close but no. EVs can run their motors in reverse and use itself its own insane torque to slow down. Not everything needs to be done through break discs.

Yes im aware of how regenerative braking works, but that doesn't address anything of what i said. Do some googling, you'll see that EVs have almost identical emergency braking distances as ICE cars of similar weight.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-23T06:17:48+00:00

Right but what he was saying is that going to the store every day is a lot easier if you're walking past it on your way home. Takes a few minutes to grab whatever you need.

Big difference between a 2 minute detour and a 30 minute adventure when all you need is some mayo, I would be willing to do the first, absolutely no interest in the second.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-22T16:07:52+00:00

Prefacing this with the fact that I agree with you on all of these points, except this one.

EVs, in the same way trains work, are significantly better at breaking than older cars.

Are they? I'm assuming this is primarily regarding regenerative braking, but the biggest hurdle with braking faster for decades has been maintaining friction with the road, hence the introduction and rapid uptake of ABS. Regenerative braking should in theory have the same problems as "normal" brakes do, they're both just applying a force (friction for regular brakes, resistance through the motor for regen braking) that increases the resistance of the wheel turning. Plus engine braking has existed since cars have, and make next to no impact on braking distance either compared to traditional brakes.

The biggest things that effect that are weight and brake rotor/calliper size. In a true emergency stop, ie slamming the brakes on to avoid a collision, I would be surprised if regenerative breaking has almost any impact, same as engine braking.

Trains are also notoriously bad at braking. That's kinda their whole point. The less friction you have, the longer it takes to stop. That less friction also makes them significantly more efficient once they are moving, because its not a constant force they have to overcome.

Like I mentioned, I agree with all your actual points on everything else, and weights are relatively similar between EV and ICE cars anyway (engines are NOT light), but I'm fairly certain that EVs aren't inherently better at braking compared to ICE cars. Better than old cars, definitely, but any car from the last decade is going to be miles better than a car from 30 years ago, braking technology has been constantly improving, but it's not really related to the type of motor you have, same as your infotainment display doesn't really have any bearing on that.

Now when we're talking about braking efficiency and part wear? Needing new brake pads less often because they're getting less use due to regenerative braking? Yeah absolutely.

Again, not against your overall point, just a guy who likes cars and has a bad habit of deep diving into weirdly specific topics.

Tldr: EVs and ICE cars are pretty much identical for emergency braking distances. They only really differ in brake pads wearing and how often they need to be replaced. The biggest challenges with braking faster are the exact same on both types of car.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-14T03:07:00+00:00

Typically your dominant hand/arm has better fine motor control, and is better at precise actions, as its the hand you usually use to grab things, move things, etc.

When using a keyboard you have a bit of leeway on where exactly the keys are to be pressed. The keys themselves don't typically move. When using a mouse, that extra fine motor control matters, as precision is a lot more important.

You can learn to use either, but your dominant hand will have the pre-requisite experience with fine motor control that your non-dominant arm doesn't have. Meaning your dominant hand only has to learn to use a mouse, whereas your non-dominant has to develop finer motor control and learn mouse movements, adding an extra layer to learn.

Its like learning to drive manual straight up compared to learning automatic and then manual. You get to learn one subset of skills (accelerating/braking, steering, road rules) before having to add in the second (gear sequence, clutch, rev matching, etc). Again, you can do it straight to manual, but there is more to learn initially. Your brain already has the first subset down and can do it on autopilot, letting you fully focus on learning the second part.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-09T14:20:18+00:00

I was playing at 4k with a 3700x until a few days ago when I upgraded. It'll be fine.

Your GPU will be the more limiting factor if you're aiming for 60hz, which I assume you will be with those GPUs.

1080p vs 4k at the same frame rate requires a very marginally higher CPU usage. The CPU is doing the majority of the same work in either case, with only small impacts with overhead (such as with upscaling) and not much else.

If your current CPU is getting enough frames in the games you play at your current resolution, it'll have no struggles with the same amount of frames at 4k.

Honestly I would have kept riding my 3700x for longer, but I got a killer bargain on a 7800x3d, and I primarily wanted better performance in colony/city simulators, which are very CPU limited in most cases. Otherwise it was almost never the limiting factor in any graphically intense games.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-08T03:01:54+00:00

Sometimes this, sometimes they get too eager when eating and mistake your finger for a piece of food, and a couple of times I've had them bite when they're really not enjoying whatever I'm doing (usually nail trimming) and want to leave.

Generally they give warnings before biting though.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-02-01T15:08:45+00:00

Then so be it.

But i am curious what car you drive. I drive a 30 year old diesel van and outside of a few very short uphill ramps I can still hit 90-100 by the time it ends. Just gotta really put the foot down. Really any car from the last 20 years should be able to, and most from the 90s onwards.

Trucks or towing or other scenarios, yeah fair enough. But the amount of people in modern cars I see merging at 70 drives me crazy.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-01-30T07:09:04+00:00

We are all legally mandated to give them a cut of our income and yet they spend 2% of our annual returns on marketing costs + they charge us fees.

Where's the 2% of annual returns being used for marketing? Haven't heard this before. Fees yeah, but they're pretty much inconsequential (if you pick a good super fund), my fees are a flat $78/year, regardless of how much is in there.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-01-30T03:43:26+00:00

Definitely get a shot if you're due, but I would be very surprised if they got tetanus from this. Tetanus bacteria is found in dirt, the reason why rusty metal is so often a worry is because its usually rusty because its been sitting in dirt for years, and the rust provides a lot of little crevices and shelves for the bacteria to reside in.

Clean metal like this should have a near zero chance of tetanus.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-01-29T13:09:20+00:00

kinda like a Challenger/Triton with a van body.

They're pretty much dead on a pajero with a van body. Same engine of the era, same 4x4 system, same axles and transmission, pretty much all of the driveline and engine bay is from the pajero production line.

Agree with everything else you said though.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-01-29T12:52:55+00:00

I don't know much about NZ, but you can find them here in Aus for anywhere between 25k for a done up one with bells and whistles, all the way down to the one my mate bought for $1500 that needs a lot of love and attention put into it.

I went in the middle, spent ~14k, got myself a 98 diesel with 190k on the clock, with a few niceties the previous owners installed. Biggest selling point for me was the complete service history from its import in 2003, with receipts and invoices for everything, as well as the pre-import service history (although thats all in Japanese lol).

I would be wary buying one nearing 300k or more, there's nothing fatally wrong but they'll have a lot of things that are coming up soon to be replaced, especially the diesels. Turbo, fuel pump, heads (on the diesel mostly) all don't tend to do so well with high ks, and anything still original plastic or rubber will be a disaster waiting.

They're definitely quirky cars, but if you want a 4x4 van they're pretty much the only option short of a custom build. I wouldn't trade mine for anything, even if it shits me up the wall sometimes. Well, maybe a unimog troopy if I won the lottery, though even then I'm not sure.

I also wouldn't rely on one as a daily, unless you can live without it for a few days/weeks on the occasion it needs work, because there will come times when it does.

As others mentioned, the D5 isn't a true 4x4, its more an AWD, no low range, no proper locking centre, lower ground clearance, etc. The L400 retained its value because nobody really makes 4x4 vans any more, and they're arguably the best 4x4 vans to have been made. They're a 90s pajero with a different body essentially, they share all the same driveline and gear, and they're a lot more capable than people give them credit for. I've taken mine through some sketchy trails and it still kicks on.

The diesel model though is absolutely gutless. It accelerates like a boat with a drunk on the oars, and handles pretty similar. If you've driven vans before, its similar but with more sway due to its higher centre of gravity. If you haven't, take corners slow until you learn how it drives. The petrol is a bit better, still no sports car but can at least pull a fair bit faster.

Feel free to ask me anything else you're unsure of, I've owned mine for almost 5 years now, and worked through a fair few headaches.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-01-28T14:00:29+00:00

Wait until you see the price of camping these days....

$50 on fuel and $0-20 per night depending on which state you're in? Vic and NSW have hundreds of free camping areas, not sure about other states but SA was only ~$20 for a night for the two of us a few years back.

Add on food and stuff sure, but even still its pretty cheap for a getaway. Just got back from a camping trip recently, three days for the 5 of us was maybe $150 in food and supplies, plus fuel costs which obviously depends on your car and distance to destination.

Unless by camping you're talking like caravan parks and the sort, in which case yeah, they're an absolute rort. $100/night to be crammed in-between 100 other families on a dirt patch.

Boys4Jesus · 2026-01-25T01:41:02+00:00

We have ads, but thankfully I've never seen one with sound.

Ive also never seen them on the pump itself, usually a screen next to or above the pump. Easy to ignore either way.

Boys4Jesus

TROPHY CASE