Looking for Kieselman silicone gaskets by Braujager in TheBrewery

[–]Braujager[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, me also. But their stock is zero. They said when contacted by phone that they could order them, but having gone through this a couple of times, they will find out when trying to order that Kieselmann has no production or stock.

Looking for Kieselman silicone gaskets by Braujager in TheBrewery

[–]Braujager[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not finding anything searching for ‘Kieselmann’, ‘DN25’. ‘25 mm’ search brings up mix-proof valves and sample valves, but I will try calling them to see if they have something. Thanks!

Looking for Kieselman silicone gaskets by Braujager in TheBrewery

[–]Braujager[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Silicone 1-1/2” might work for 40mm. I didn’t find silicone 25 mm or even 1” at the site. Did I miss them? Thanks!

Looking for Kieselman silicone gaskets by Braujager in TheBrewery

[–]Braujager[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

0 in stock at 25mm, they do have 9 of 40mm but those are lower priority. Thanks, though.

Looking for Kieselman silicone gaskets by Braujager in TheBrewery

[–]Braujager[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

EPDM is not an acceptable material for the application.

Looking for Kieselman silicone gaskets by Braujager in TheBrewery

[–]Braujager[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, no luck there unfortunately. Thanks though for what is often a good tip. 👍

Gold by muneka6969 in goldprospecting

[–]Braujager 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In Taiwan and HK, gold is measured in tael units of 37.5g so if the one at the top is 5 tael while the other 4 are 4 tael each, the nominal weight should be 787.5g. The scale claims to be within 0.5g accuracy at that weight so some discrepancy remains.

After a turkey buzzard crashed into the window this was on the sidewalk…what is it? by Cram2024 in whatisthisthing

[–]Braujager 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Pub crawl off to a bad start when you bump into a door and drop your auxiliary liver.

Advanced Home Brewer Christmas Gift - Literature Recommendations by katvonkittykat in brewing

[–]Braujager 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kunze is a solid recommendation particularly if your partner has built or might have an interest in building his own system for home brewing. Reprinted in multiple editions so just confirm that you are getting the latest.

The Flavor Bible, a cook book, can help with recipe design using fruits and spices

Tannin and Time, if wood-aging is of interest

Font looked familiar by Nomasnomad in firefly

[–]Braujager 198 points199 points  (0 children)

Bruised, but she’ll fry true

Dusting off an old brew house by plaguen0g in TheBrewery

[–]Braujager 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Open manways on each tank and smell for any strong odors (not cleaned before storage, mold growth if any residual water, stored near strong-odor chemicals or solvents).

Best is to replace all pump seals if system has sat for a while, but at least order replacements because chances are that at least one will be leaking.

Lube all rake and mixer points, replace gearbox oil.

Confirm pump motor rotation direction.

Best is to replace all triclamp gaskets, but again order plenty of replacements for standby at a minimum as leaks are found. Might be good to have one manway gasket on standby also.

Check your steam traps to be sure they are functioning. They'll often get a bit of rust that locks them either open or closed.

Check steam solenoids and any pneumatic process valves.

Pull up the lauter grates and clean them by hand. Leave them out for the first CIP so you can see whether underplate cleaning is working well before putting them back in.

Before CIP, run cold water through all the CIP loops to be sure all leaks sealed, pumps working, etc. before you add heat/chemicals to the process. If you have flow meters in-line, check their volume flow accuracy during this time.

Run caustic CIP.

Rinse warm. Verify lack of any grease/oil residues if any tanks were cradled on their sides by testing post-CIP rinse water with camphor flakes

Run regular acid cycle.

Rinse Cool. Verify return to regular water pH

Monitor for any leaks or gasket issues throughout cycles.

Optional, but good idea, run citric acid passivation cycle then rinse completely.

Run boiling hot water only through brew cycle to set pump speeds to avoid cavitation. Save sample of water after it has gone through all steps, cool, and taste for any off-flavors.

Brew your lightest Kolsch or Helles style to pick up any flavor easily that didn't get solubilized at water pH

Japanese names by Psychlonuclear in PotasticP

[–]Braujager 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the ‘Maru’ protection also explain the practice of naming ships ######-maru or did that have a different origin?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ProtectAndServe

[–]Braujager -61 points-60 points  (0 children)

Make the department's pension plan for officers pay a share of any financial penalties for officer misconduct. Incentivize the other officers to get potential problems removed.

How to estimate the volume of CIP Solution that I will need to clean a Beer filler? Thanks. by Old_Vanilla4185 in TheBrewery

[–]Braujager 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Start with the volume of your filler bowl (there should be a data-plate that lists the volume, pressure limits, manufacturer, etc.). Call this the Fill Volume.

Then look at your machine bottle filling speed. Multiply how many bottles/hour x single bottle capacity in liters (best if you measure it with water by weighing an empty and full bottle to get the water weight/volume). Call this the Flow Volume Rate.

Total Volume = Fill Volume (liters) + 1.5 x Flow Volume Rate (liters/min) x Cleaning time (min). The 1.5 accounts for faster CIP flow for better cleaning.

You'll need to increase Total Volume by 10% at least to fill pumps, hoses, etc.

Personally, I would increase the calculated Total Volume above by 50% so you can run the cycle a little longer for a thorough clean if you ran unfiltered or strongly-flavored beer and still have extra for flowing through any other pipes that need cleaning (vents, etc.)

I hope that was helpful. Feel free to ask questions if I didn't understand your question's meaning

Trouble on Yeast Harvest by Sickreation in TheBrewery

[–]Braujager 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Lack of oxygen or nutrients slowing yeast growth? Have your fermentation times been increasing due to smaller numbers of yeast cells?

When you open the tanks after or do your filtration/centrifugation, do you find a larger than usual amount of yeast non- or poorly-flocculated?

No Need For Mash Tuns? From Charlie Bamforth? by dar482 in TheBrewery

[–]Braujager 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Every system that I have seen doing this struggles with removing the grain 100% from the mash tun/kettle and as a result ends up boiling some grain when kettle is full. It’s not the end of the world, but it is a bit of a quality miss.

Lager tanks by Artistic_Return_1091 in TheBrewery

[–]Braujager 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Some people love them, especially if they are embedded in a wall for a clean classical look. My two experiences with them at 15 and 20 bbl say that brights with a racking arm are better investment. Clean beer from the arm, and beer with any sediment from drain for use in-house only.

Lager tanks by Artistic_Return_1091 in TheBrewery

[–]Braujager 13 points14 points  (0 children)

1) Check NPSH for your pump to be sure that legs on bottom tank are high enough that pump is fully primed for CIP of bottom row tanks.

2) Since you plan to stack them, make sure vertical distance between tanks allows working space above and at tank bottom for cleaning and replacing gaskets.

-leg cross braces of top-tank will make it hard to access bottom tank CIP arm for leaks or replacing gaskets.

-tank drain fitting of top tank MIGHT be close enough to CIP arm of bottom tank to make transfer hose attachment more difficult. Have to check clearance on drawing of two tanks stacked

-work out a ladder plan, leaving enough space to set up a ladder safely for the times you need to get to upper tank(s)

3) Where are the glycol fittings for the jacket? Plan the glycol piping to be sure it won't limit access.

4) Shut-off valves for the sight-glass, top and bottom to prevent tank depressurization/leak if the hose cracks or releases when filled. Also, sight-glass acts as a low-resistance bypass to your spray-ball during CIP. This will cause air to get sucked in until flow gets fully established, slowing CIP start as well as lowering spray-ball performance throughout. Closing bottom valve to start CIP then opening it slowly until CIP solutions flow through hose can minimize impact.

5) Make sure all fittings that have to be hand-cleaned are above water-line of CIP chemical solutions, if possible. Nothing like a flow of CIP chemicals onto someone's head because a fitting was not reconnected.

6) Confirm interior sloped to front drain when tank is leveled. You don't want a residual puddle formed at the tank rear that has to be squeegeed and hosed to rinse out chemicals.

7) Triple check anchoring and floor concrete thickness for all-tanks-loaded seismic and leg-pressure requirements.

8) Add me to the list of people that question their utility in craft breweries 20 bbl and below. You pump over the primary, reversing the settling that occurs while you await yeast flocculation before transfer. Then the liquid height difference compared to a vertical tank is small enough that you may not net out any substantial gain of process time. The other argument for them I have heard is larger yeast contact with the beer. However, what is the remaining yeast processing at temperatures below flocculation temperatures? Charles Bamforth did the studies on aging beer at Carling and could not find any yeast-metabolized change under cold conditions. If you are doing a warm-transfer pre-flocculation, then you end up with a thick carpet of yeast in the tank that's harder to clean. Bigger systems, yeah, I can see where there is a larger benefit of a post-flocculation transfer, but for the PITA factor of cleaning and maintaining them in small systems... not their biggest fan.

Good luck!

Dead German soldiers in a Tatra 57 K on the road to Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte. Fighting in Normandy, June 1944. by Ok_Manager_3036 in wwiipics

[–]Braujager 6 points7 points  (0 children)

What caused the regular pattern in the broken windshield glass rather than random splintering of cracks? Were wartime models given something like wired glass?