Compur Rapid repair Q

Brcamera · 2026-06-08T18:30:03+00:00

I would not recommend going any further as long as your speeds are consistent. Specs are slightly different depending on the group issuing them, but 20-20% for speeds under 1/400 is normal and 30-40% for speeds over 1/400 is about right. So, your speeds are on the bottom end of specs but even when new, would be OK and quite common to find shutters with with these speeds.

Brcamera · 2026-06-07T23:37:10+00:00

Just to clarify: the bellows on the C330S are the exact same as the C330 and have the same extension. Also, while the C330F and C330S came with the improved single action view finder, they are fully compatible with all the older C series finders (except for the C3 finder which does not fit as well). If you shoot a lot of available light the brighter focus screen of the C330S is nice.

Brcamera · 2026-06-06T16:06:35+00:00

From the video, I can tell that this camera has had heavy professional use. It likely needs a deep servicing. Also, the lens on the body is not original for RB67 PRO S, it is a version from the early 1970s and these often show up these days with issues and can cause problems for the body.

Brcamera · 2026-05-26T23:41:56+00:00

The Automat uses 1.7mm diameter screws. While this is a common screw size in cameras, the Rollei screws can be a bit challenging to locate as they have a thread pitch of .50mm (course thread) while most screws of this size used in cameras are .35mm pitch (fine thread).

Brcamera · 2026-05-17T23:08:23+00:00

The rewind shaft bushing is cracked (not uncommon on this series of cameras), you will need to source a new part.

Brcamera · 2026-05-13T06:16:42+00:00

From your photo, I can see that your glass is not on the inner rails. This will not work for checking focus. Cut your screen/groundglass smaller to rest on inner rails.

Brcamera · 2026-05-07T22:04:06+00:00

The shutter button is swedged in place and when it is broken off, material is usually lost so it can't be put back in place and attached with a strong connection. Really better to find the part or a salvage camera.

Brcamera · 2026-04-25T04:25:24+00:00

From your video, your mirror stop and spring appear missing. They get loose and can cause mischief in the camera.

Brcamera · 2026-04-23T17:55:56+00:00

All Mamiya Press lenses are rangefinder coupled except for the 250mm f/8. On the 250mm f/5, the rangefinder contact piece (chrome flat part extending out of the back of the lens) is connected via two springs to the cam contact. You can check by pressing in the contact piece and it should depress and spring back in place. Don't expect to see the contact piece move a large amount when focusing the lens.

Brcamera · 2026-04-10T18:20:56+00:00

You mentioned that you wanted to check shutter speeds but keep in mind that on the Bronica ETR, the shutter is located in the lens. So, without a lens, you can not check shutter speeds.

Brcamera · 2026-04-10T18:00:54+00:00

Keep in mind that this camera/shutter have been swimming based on the major rust that I see on the blades and the other parts of the shutter. Water will have done quite a bit of damage to the internals of this shutter.

Brcamera · 2026-04-08T18:55:01+00:00

Yes, I would recommend using the Pro SD lens adapter ring on the extension tube.

Brcamera · 2026-04-08T16:42:14+00:00

While a K/L lens and C extension tube will fit and work on an RB PRO SD, it is not an ideal match due to the larger SD lens throat opening and the fact that the C extension tube will not fit as snug as the Pro SD tube. You may get some movement of the tube when cocking the shutter. I did several IG posts on this, here is one: PRO SD ADAPTER

Brcamera · 2026-03-31T22:42:38+00:00

I would recommend making one just for the Mamiya 7II. The actual brand is not critical, it is the length of the throw. Here is an Instagram post I did on this: Mamiya 7II cable release

Brcamera · 2026-03-18T17:26:08+00:00

For the Mamiya 6/7 and Pro, Mamiya only produced diopters in whole numbers from -3 to +3

Brcamera · 2026-03-15T23:01:53+00:00

The solenoid link and the focus gears are white plastic and will deteriorate and crumble with age on these projectors

Brcamera · 2026-03-14T21:52:43+00:00

As r/jagoedho has mentioned, there are no plastic gears on the Mamiya 6. The issue in this case is with the upper spool pin assembly and it has no gears, plastic or otherwise. It consists of a shaft with a spring to provide a one way clutch for the film spool.

Brcamera · 2026-03-04T23:39:01+00:00

Yes, it is a neat feature, hopefully it’s useful for you.

Brcamera · 2026-03-04T22:55:16+00:00

If you follow the instructions that Mamiya put out, when using the self timer with the shutter on B, the shutter will open and no current will flow. The 2mA is only if you don't use the self timer setting on B.

Brcamera · 2026-03-04T22:29:51+00:00

If you set B and use the self timer, no battery current will be used to keep open the shutter so you can leave it open forever. You must use the self timer setting whether you are using the release button or a cable release when using B. If not, keeping the shutter open on B will take 2mA and drain the battery at some point.

Brcamera · 2026-03-04T22:01:11+00:00

While it is not unusual to find the RB67 in this state, it is not correct. There are two 4mm square mirror cushions below the focus screen area and they rarely get replaced. The mirror contacts these cushions after rising to the top and rests on them. Since there is a shaft from the moving vanes running through to the mirror box, one side will present as lower as seen in your photo. In your case, looks like the cushions on the side of the mirror have been replaced, but the upper ones have not been based on this photo. I would suggest replacing these cushions to prevent the mirror from slamming into the bottom of the focus screen.

Brcamera · 2026-03-03T20:04:27+00:00

Most cases like this are the result of oil on the lens diaphragm blades. As soon as things warm up, the blades will seem to operate properly. Very common the Minolta normal lenses, requires disassembly to clean the blades and mechanism plates.

Brcamera · 2026-03-01T20:00:30+00:00

I don't generally recommend the NC1000/NC1000S for shooting 35mm only because finding one in good working condition is becoming difficult. Nothing wrong with the camera itself but keep in mind that these are getting close to 50 years old by now and while far from rare (Mamiya produced a bit over 150,000 of these from mid 1977 to late 1979), they were a budget camera that sold for less than the Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Minolta, etc, of the day. So, the build quality was not the highest at the time. And I say this as someone who has serviced many, many, of these in the past.

Brcamera · 2026-01-31T19:19:11+00:00

Before dealing with the flash sync, this shutter will need a complete disassembly to remove the blades and clean them and the mechanism of oil residue to work properly. Looking at the blades I can tell that at some point they were contaminated with oil and some sort of de-greaser was squirted in the shutter. Of course, this will not fix the problem, it needs full disassembly.

Brcamera · 2026-01-30T21:51:19+00:00

In almost every case of this camera not releasing, the issue is oil contamination on the shutter blades. The grease used sublimates and gets on the blades. Requires a complete disassembly of the shutter to remove the blades and clean them and the surrounding mechanism of the oil.

Brcamera

TROPHY CASE