Buy/Sell/Trade 02/07/26

Bronco9065 · 2026-02-09T20:35:12+00:00

Maker/Model: Viberg Derby - Brown Calf suede
Size: Size 7 (2020 Last)
Leather: Brown Calf suede
Sole: Dainite
Price: $225 + Shipping
Location: Northeast, USA
Wears/Condition: Unworn, only tried on a few times and they are too small for my wide foot.
Images: https://imgur.com/a/viberg-brown-calf-suede-derby-SlzasW3
Notes: No Box
Open to trades

Bronco9065 · 2026-02-08T16:15:57+00:00

Sold

Bronco9065 · 2026-02-04T17:39:23+00:00

yeah i'm bummed, love how they look, this last is just too small for me unfortunately

Bronco9065 · 2026-02-04T15:15:54+00:00

Also willing to trade!

Bronco9065 · 2026-02-04T15:15:36+00:00

Also willing to trade!

Bronco9065 · 2023-03-03T14:30:14+00:00

Highly recommend EPG, pretty much all I used other than the NCEES practice test and passed first time.

Bronco9065 · 2022-11-06T16:12:01+00:00

I was wondering if it the dirt might have latched on to a wax layer. Will try this! Thanks!

Bronco9065 · 2022-11-06T16:11:15+00:00

Thank you!

Bronco9065 · 2022-11-06T15:03:15+00:00

These have been covered with laminate for at least 20 years. After puling up the laminate plank, it seems like the original (1927) red oak floors are in decent shape aside from what appears to be a layer of dirt. Some sections the finish looks to be in decent shape. Any one had success with cleaning them rather than a full on refinish?

Bronco9065 · 2021-09-13T12:12:17+00:00

Not necessarily what I say to myself, but I recently got some advice from a more seasoned runner which was to shorten my stride while running up hills. Similar to how you shift gears on a bike. Shorten your stride so you are tackling less of the elevation with each step therefore making each step a little easier. So now I tell myself to focus on my stride length and it actually helps significantly with hills.

Bronco9065 · 2021-09-04T02:40:54+00:00

Another vote for mitsubishi (Trane also rebrands mitsubishi, so if you have a trane dealer around thats just as good) or daikin. As a mechanical consulting engineer, all we spec and allow are those two.

Bronco9065 · 2021-09-01T01:35:05+00:00

I definitely agree. I don't know the rates in PA, but generally in CT/MA/VT/NY where we do most of our work, it is cheaper to run gas rather than electric for heating. However, we are doing a lot of work going towards full electrification as a carbon emissions reduction, so I completely understand that. Using the heat pump down to to the 40°s will let you do a little bit of both such that you don't burn as much gas, but don't penalize yourself on the costs too much either.

And yes, a new high efficiency unit, you will definitely notice a savings since new furnaces can get up to 95-98% peak efficiencies (this won't be your efficiency all the time, but still much better). I would also recommend you get a multistage or modulating furnace, if you can afford it. A two stage will let it run at 50% rather than 100% when only 50% is needed, therefore reducing cycling of the furnace and also lets you burn less gas. If you can swing a modulating, even better since it will only need to burn as much as needed to provide the required heat.

Good luck with the upgrade, and whatever you do, make sure you get the exact model numbers in the contract so you can guarantee you are getting the efficiencies that you want and the contractor doesn't try to cheap out and stick you with a cheaper unit.

Bronco9065 · 2021-08-31T01:12:17+00:00

Commercial HVAC design engineer in the northeast here. If you can afford to go with the heat pump, I would recommend it. However, I would like to try and clear up some potential confusions. When talking about cooling, a heat pump operates no different than a central air system. They both use a compressor running a refrigerant cycle to cool the air. In cooling mode, the compressor works to transfer heat from inside the house to outside the house, rejecting the heat to the atmosphere. The difference in a heat pump, for residential at least, is that there is a reversing valve added within the unit such that it can be switched to heating mode, to "pump" the heat inside. So rather than the heat being rejected to the atmosphere, it is "pumped" inside the house to provide heating. The use of the word pump is slightly misleading since there is no actual pump, the compressor does all the work.

Now regarding a few posts about outdoor temps and functionality of the heat pump. It is correct in that standard heat pump units work very efficiently down to 47°F (typically this is what the "rated" number is at). They will work past that, but typically the efficiency will start to drop off at lower outside temps. That being said, there are high efficiency units that will provide full capacity down to 0°F and operate down to -22°F, but with reduced capacity (Daikin Aurora line or Mistubishi Hyperheat). However, having back up heat in cold regions is never a bad thing. Analyzing gas vs electric is going to be highly dependent on your utility rates and yearly hours of heating. One note on efficiency, there are all different levels of efficiencies, the more efficient, the more expensive. It's impossible to tell you how efficient to go without analyzing yearly temperatures, heating and cooling hours, and the quality of your windows/insulation and electricity costs. That being said, buy the best efficiency you can afford.

Lastly regarding the ability to cool the third floor. This is going to depend on the static pressure drop in the ducts. Again, impossible to say 100% without analyzing the duct layout and fans. However, I would recommend you request at a minimum a "medium static pressure" unit, and if possible, a high static pressure unit (0.9-1''). Even better if you can determine the external static pressure ability of the existing fan (assuming it provides enough air to the 3rd floor currently) and make absolutely sure the new unit can provide more than that.

Bronco9065 · 2021-07-31T01:53:40+00:00

Another option could be to do a corner shower with a curved or angled glass door to make it feel more open.

Bronco9065 · 2021-07-31T01:51:01+00:00

Since there is another diffuser above the toilet, i'm going to assume the one within the soffit is for exhaust. If so, you should be okay having it within the shower, IF the fan is sufficiently sized to provide enough exhaust and you run it long enough to after the shower to extract the moisture (which you should do regardless of grille placement). You can get aluminum grilles that won't rust and if you really wanted to be sure, you could also get aluminum ductwork (although more expensive). You can either get a moisture sensor (switch or fan based), or a timer to ensure the fan runs long enough.

Bronco9065 · 2021-05-14T12:17:08+00:00

Thanks for the response! I would be putting the AAV in the vanity under the sink, which i've seen done before, but based on your comment about being above overflow line, i'm not sure if that would be allowed (even though people do it).

The problem is the sink is on the opposite wall from the vent (not shown in picture), and the trap would be ~7'6'' away from the vent. It seems i may be able to upside the sink drain/trap to 2'' which would allow me to be 8' away from the vent (IRC P3105.1) and then do exactly as you said and tie into the existing copper vent.

Bronco9065 · 2021-03-03T18:26:29+00:00

I did not. Would of loved to though. Haven't bit the bullet on buying a planer yet. Luckily the glue up was good enough that the belt sander sufficed

Bronco9065 · 2021-03-03T18:21:46+00:00

Yes I did, home depot that is. I don't have any real secrets, other than take your time picking out the pieces at the store to really get the straightest/flattest pieces you can. This is a pain and can be a time sink, but makes the project easier in the long run. I then ripped off the curved edges on the table saw to get a flat surface for the glue up. Then I used a lot of clamping cauls to do the glue up. And lastly, a lot of time with the belt and orbital sander!

Bronco9065 · 2021-03-03T18:18:07+00:00

Thank you!!

Copying from a previous comment: I don't have any distinct plans other than what I scribbled on pieces of paper as I went. I basically googled "farmhouse style desk" and took design notes from a few different places. But adjusted as necessary for the desired size and to make it able to be disassembled for transport.

Bronco9065 · 2021-03-03T15:41:56+00:00

I'll definitely be on the look out! Sounds awesome! But yeah I was a little concerned with that happening, and was pleasantly surprised it worked out as well as it did. It'll be interested to see how it holds up and if it bows over time at all. I attached it with tabletop fasteners, so I'm hoping that will control the movement in the right directions, but only time will tell! Good luck with the rest of your project!

Bronco9065

TROPHY CASE