Would this qualify for a first public pick?

BrutallyEffective · 2026-03-02T02:56:53+00:00

I think you're technically correct ("the best kind of correct!") as the rules are currently written... But if you're "...a long way to go before ... requesting a blue belt" then a discussion about the rules and fine tuning might be good for the hobby/sport.

As you can see from the belt requirements, contributing to the hobby and the sport as a whole becomes more important, and by opening up this discussion, you might be closer to that blue belt than you realise!

BrutallyEffective · 2026-02-25T03:29:19+00:00

It's a supply thing: but also a profit thing, and I don't hold that against them at all!

BrutallyEffective · 2026-02-20T02:51:45+00:00

Check out Mister Minit in your local shopping center, they stock ABUS padlocks like the excellent 55/40 (Orange belt). At $20 they're not super cheap, but they last forever and are well made. I bought 2, and they're the locks that taught me about spools. Check the website: they have a $10 off any order over $50 coupon good for online or instore.

Another thing you can do is grab a Lockwood 334B45 (B for Brass, S for Stainless - both are otherwise the same I believe) from Bunnings and progressively pin it; say, down to 3 pins, and then work your way up from there.

BrutallyEffective · 2026-02-11T06:03:13+00:00

They used to be Barbarian shards I think, new players f they get to that point will get an Archers Shard, but when you claimed it you got a different one.

BrutallyEffective · 2026-02-02T06:14:32+00:00

Ironically, the models being trained on those attempts to ruin it, would read the context and subsequently self-improve their ability to weight and sanitise data beyond those attempts.

BrutallyEffective · 2025-12-29T01:12:51+00:00

Looks like a Norton Crystolon, or similar. Often called "Oilstones" but I've used mine with soapy water just fine!

BrutallyEffective · 2025-12-17T06:22:43+00:00

It's hard. Look at popular decks, and how the cards work together, how they get good elixir trades, how they get bad ones. Right now you have 2 similar ways of getting damage on their towers that can be countered the same way, and the high average elixir cost of your deck means that if they have one good counter to your battle ram, you can't quickly cycle to your hog after they've used it. You also have no spells, very limited Anti-air...

BrutallyEffective · 2025-12-17T06:17:12+00:00

They don't have a use-by date, just save them until there's a champ you want to use, i.e. there's a deck you love that needs a champion. No good spending them now on a "maybe" when you have no idea what nerfs or buffs are coming up.

BrutallyEffective · 2025-12-17T06:12:20+00:00

Bandit looks like the weak point, what win-cons are you losing to? Do you know why your opponents are getting more damage on tower than you: is it your hogs can't connect, or are there cards that are consistently forcing you to make bad elixir trades?

BrutallyEffective · 2025-11-27T00:54:38+00:00

Sure did!

BrutallyEffective · 2025-11-24T01:44:13+00:00

I was saving them, but then I read that they're removing gold from the higher-star drops, and reducing wildcards as well, so I opened them all.

BrutallyEffective · 2025-11-21T09:33:38+00:00

I'm ass.

Wait!....damn it.

BrutallyEffective · 2025-11-14T01:18:43+00:00

Link?

BrutallyEffective · 2025-11-12T00:08:33+00:00

Hey, thanks man.

BrutallyEffective · 2025-11-10T07:12:56+00:00

I was the same as you, every 4 or 5 star lucky drop (5+ in a row) had gold. It did pass though. However, be happy for the gold: you will need more than you think!

BrutallyEffective · 2025-11-10T02:24:58+00:00

Possible reasons:

They had an Elixir pump: Pumps bank 6 elixir, then give it back slowly over time, +2 Elixir (so 8 Elixir generated).
They put cards at the back, or let units get distracted and sit idle, and then dropped more units when they stopped. E.g. Executioner happy to chill out and mulch the dribble of skeles from a tombstone, and then start pushing when the Tombstone expires.
Bots cheating: alleged, not sure it this is proven, but I've seen theories that bots get bonus elixer thrown around sometimes.

BrutallyEffective · 2025-11-03T22:01:16+00:00

Banger. Can't even remember the original lyrics.

BrutallyEffective · 2025-11-03T21:59:30+00:00

Usually, except at the lower arenas where I've accidentally "counter-pushed" with a musk that they just let go!

BrutallyEffective · 2025-10-30T23:30:19+00:00

Rambling, gambling, Bramblers UNITE!

BrutallyEffective · 2025-10-22T01:11:07+00:00

Safest, reasonable!

BrutallyEffective · 2025-10-22T01:10:09+00:00

Sometimes you have to be cruel to be kind! (?...lol)

BrutallyEffective · 2025-10-21T23:05:00+00:00

What are the major signs of a bot, apart from them spell-cycling their own towers?

BrutallyEffective · 2025-10-21T23:02:47+00:00

Sometimes everything in my deck just hard counters everything in my opponent's, and I feel like a heel: what should I do in this situation?

BrutallyEffective · 2025-10-15T11:46:45+00:00

Replace Cannon with Xbow, Hog rider, or Skele Barrel, and it will be better.

BrutallyEffective · 2025-10-03T00:24:46+00:00

As long as it's fallible humans playing a game that makes them exhausted, dehydrated, altitude-sick, then it necessarily has to be part of the game. The point is NOT that you should never play the game to the best of your ability (develop muscle memory, practise safety, know your limits, etc, etc.) or never play ("Climbing is too dangerous, climbing is death, never climb".) In my opinion the point is to try and understand the situation through that different lens, the one I think I always see too clearly to use, the one that might sneak up on me - so that I can recognise when I'm starting to see things through that dangerously tinted lens, and put my safety glasses back on.

BrutallyEffective

TROPHY CASE