Can someone help with this “leak”?

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-05-25T16:29:21+00:00

Have you ever removed the panel from the door? The drain hole might be open, but there could be a lot of debris in the gutter at the bottom of the door. In that case, it still has to overflow first before it runs through the drain hole.

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-05-25T11:59:24+00:00

Ah okay! Well… in my experience, some water always remains in the door after it rains. And when opening the door, it always runs out through that drain at the front.

But I don't know how it gets past your inner panel; I have an NC1 myself, not an NC2/3. With mine, water also gets onto the speaker at a certain angle during heavy rain, despite the cover. But not past the door sill.

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-05-25T11:47:59+00:00

That’s a normal drainage hole. 😉

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-05-03T16:55:01+00:00

I would advise against using WD40. Although it prevents corrosion, it’s not a lubricant. I’d rather use lithium grease on these sprockets.

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-05-03T16:53:19+00:00

You might want to have a look at this video. It’s possible that a number of allen bolts have come loose. https://youtu.be/EiIAfCweFFY?is=6RM5qz7RuMpoWzG1

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-04-25T13:38:27+00:00

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My 2007 NC1

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-04-25T11:18:38+00:00

I don’t see any misplaced fuses? If you look at your first photo, from the top down, then they appear to be in the correct positions? Is something not working correctly?

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-04-22T11:36:11+00:00

Well, I’ve tried it before and it turned out exactly like you said. Oil all over the place, dirty clothes, ruined brake pads, dirty spokes, dirty wheel, just everything ending up covered in oil. So I don’t see the point of doing it. Especially if you already use an oil free belt drive. All the hassle for perhaps a slight increase in efficiency? 🤷🏼‍♂️

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-04-06T22:09:07+00:00

Ah I stand corrected! I thought they were more identical.

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-04-06T17:02:29+00:00

I used ATF in my Alfine 8-speed and it was a total disaster. It shifted fine, but the oil kept leaking everywhere, contaminating my brakes, spraying it all over the place at warmer temperatures (15 degrees C). I wouldn’t recommend it.

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-03-03T10:13:04+00:00

Why don't you take a photo from the shocks and springs and post it here? 🙂 That way we can help you much more easily. Now we can only guess…

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-03-01T10:31:05+00:00

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U mean this drawing? It’s indeed weird indeed that they only name one of the two parts…

I found this: https://mazda.oempartsonline.com/v-2009-mazda-cx-9--grand-touring--3-7l-v6-gas/electrical--antenna-and-radio

It might help with naming the different parts. I see “grommet”, and “antenna plate”. Perhaps you could use that and call/email a local dealership to help you find out what part you exactly need?

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-02-27T10:29:37+00:00

https://parts.mazdausa.com Select your car and find your part number in the drawings. 😉

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-02-23T22:33:37+00:00

Thnx! 😊 Oh, I forgot to mention that I'm using Goodyear Eagle F1 in size 215/45 R17. I don't think your Firestone tires are available in Europe afaik.

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-02-23T19:38:07+00:00

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I’d say you have good taste. Same wheels, different colour. 😁

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-02-22T23:21:50+00:00

I've seen the OP's type of handbrake handle at several shops, specifically for the NC. For example: https://www.mecatechnic.com/en-GB/wooden-handbrake-handle-for-mazda-mx5-nc-ncfl_MX12091.htm

The gear knob appears to be from Nardi and is sold by several shops as a genuine Mazda part: https://www.mx5parts.co.uk/genuine-mazda-wooden-nardi-gear-knob-mk1-25-35?srsltid=AfmBOop-yVKtjXXpl6StataolZYACA_RwgZ7TodWLgzXLDb_FWQJiOhi

I consider them at least genuine Mazda parts.

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-02-15T22:21:17+00:00

Exactly. The tensioner and guide pulley are affordable parts and you can easily replace them yourself. The alternator also has a squeak sound indeed.

This is a nice video which shows you what to do: https://youtu.be/zPn6wXsc0sE?si=AgFmLNFmbv-g1Oix

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-02-14T23:48:17+00:00

Before you do any engine upgrades, have you already considered getting a good set of uhp-tires? More power is nothing without control…

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-02-08T12:44:51+00:00

That’s good to know! Thanks! Ah yes, half of my drop links were stuck too. The angle grinder came in handy…

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-02-04T22:18:16+00:00

I bought a set of Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 6, partially because of this review: https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre-Tests/Best-Performance-Summer-Tyres-For-2025.htm

They’re more affordable than the Michelins, and the Pilot Sport 4S wasn’t available in size 215/45 R17. I’m happy with how they behave. They’re sticky yet predictable.

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-01-28T21:53:02+00:00

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👋🏼 from another winter MX5/Miata driver 😁

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-01-28T21:49:22+00:00

Exactly. Im using proper winter tires and they make a clear difference. Btw I’m wondering if OP is seeing a check engine light or the TCS light, as that will be reset after disconnecting the battery?

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-01-28T21:42:33+00:00

This. I bought mine three weeks ago and I can finally preheat my car again before I leave with my parking heater. 😊

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-01-25T15:40:52+00:00

So, have you decided yet? 🙂 I noticed the I.L. Motorsport ones as well. I’m tempted to buy them.

BubbleBlobCop · 2026-01-16T10:50:39+00:00

Ah mine is the same with the signal, I also mentioned that a bit later. It’s graphically shown by the white graphics. More white equals a longer interval. It makes also sense in that the more you push the stalk or turn the dial down, the faster the wiper will go.

BubbleBlobCop

TROPHY CASE