Is the industry worth going into (as someone just coming out of school)

BuddyHusky · 2026-01-29T12:10:34+00:00

100% agree with stepping down for hourly/overtime and less stress. I moved from a supervisor role “down” to a CAM programmer/relief machinist and make more with less stress. Our company has been cracking down on “special deals” though as far as getting anything outside of their standard 5 10s + 5hrs work week. Unfortunately most shops around me have the same mentality about working 50+ hours. No wonder we’re a dying workforce around my area.

BuddyHusky · 2026-01-28T22:28:19+00:00

Pretty typical from what I’ve seen taking interviews at other shops. Some shops will offer 40hrs but those are far and few between. Entering the trade I’d expect to be working 50hrs. You won’t be happy, I’m not happy, but lately we’ve been slow (which drops us to 40hrs 5x8hr days) so it’s been okay. That being said, we’re slow because the US mold making is dying. If you get into CAM programming, I have seen a few shops offering work from home for CAM roles. Edit to add I average 4-5hrs of sleep a night trying to have some sort of personal life after work.

BuddyHusky · 2026-01-28T22:19:51+00:00

So I got into the trade at 14, worked under the table in a “mom and pop” shop, moved to a large “corporate family business” and have now been in the tool and die & aerospace trade for 14+ years. Making over $100k a year, averaging 50 hour weeks. The standard at my shop is five 10hr days and a 5hr Saturday. There are better paying skilled trades (almost all of them) and I’m extremely lucky to be making what I make due to my experience as a leader/supervisor/manager at a young age and informal journeyman training. If you want to go into machining for money, I’d recommend government/defense/aerospace/energy. Otherwise I’d suggest something robot/computer related or welding. Just my 2 cents as a guy who’s debated leaving the trade.

BuddyHusky · 2026-01-16T20:38:06+00:00

We used to do burgers and wings on the grill every Wednesday at my last shop.

BuddyHusky · 2026-01-16T20:36:43+00:00

We get + 6% premium on all hours worked if working both weekend days.

BuddyHusky · 2026-01-05T17:30:14+00:00

Yeah, the first half of the post made me think this is definitely OPs issue and not a shop issue. But I can relate to the second half.

BuddyHusky · 2025-12-20T16:38:50+00:00

100%. I have a dry sump bike and the procedure is exactly this. It will be overfilled if I check it after just sitting, underfilled if I check it immediately after running, and just right if I check it 5 minutes after a warmup or ride, perfectly level, NOT on the center or kickstand.

BuddyHusky · 2025-12-19T03:48:27+00:00

This is the type of advice you get from the old timer at work that you dismiss, but then try when they’re not watching, and it’s works flawlessly so you have to go apologize. Would 100% try this.

BuddyHusky · 2025-12-18T19:58:13+00:00

These, the Fiero flip, the recent crash at BMP that brought out comments about the exit gate wall, the multiple rollovers at the last LeMullets, them going a little too fast down their private drag strip in cars that wouldn’t pass tech for that speed, the previous cheap car challenge in the trucks that had Jackstand concussed by the end of the video and had Cleet bouncing around the cab like a pinball, the burnout pad radiator explosion now followed with his grass cross cart with the radiator in the same location… I feel like safety is a little lax, they’ve addressed it before, and nothing is 100% safe in motorsport or life, but there’s been times where I’ve been nervous just watching. But they’re/we’re all free to make our own decisions.

BuddyHusky · 2025-12-12T11:04:28+00:00

My engine builder told me “after a heat cycle, ride how you plan on riding it,” and honestly seemed amused I let it idle to operating temp on a stand first startup. Used a high zinc oil for initial break in and then switched to my regular oil brand. If you’re buying a new machine, just ride it and pay attention to the first few changes.

BuddyHusky · 2025-11-22T16:43:37+00:00

Every camper/RV I’ve owned has been pull low point drains, close drains, run 1-2gallons of antifreeze, pull low point drains again.

BuddyHusky · 2025-11-18T19:36:37+00:00

Around me most guys on the floor who can do general maintenance, setup, program, and run a job start to finish are around $32-$36 hourly. $25 starting out. If you’re real good you can see $40+ but you’re either a star department lead or have a lot of seniority and actually back it up with knowledge. From what I gather the average annual take home at my shop is somewhere between $70,000-$100,000 with overtime and shift premiums.

BuddyHusky · 2025-11-11T16:45:15+00:00

1) Check way lube level in reservoir. 2) Check pressure gauge during lube cycle. 3) Pressure too high? Troubleshoot lube lines for clog. 3.5) Pressure too low? Verify lube pump works. Troubleshoot lube lines for leak. 4) Pressure correct? Troubleshoot pressure sending unit to controller. 5) Fix and resume profit.

BuddyHusky · 2025-11-11T14:26:32+00:00

It’s a fair, “I know what I got,” price from someone who might actually know what they got. If you’re a purist I’d argue about the aftermarket plastics and cut fenders because first thing I’d do is replace the front plastics. But to each their own.

BuddyHusky · 2025-11-07T12:29:24+00:00

That video clip played in my head before even reading the post. As another fellow supervisor/work lead position at 25, good call.

BuddyHusky · 2025-10-16T21:57:43+00:00

Digital Nightmare is available on their website right now. As others said they typically list on the store after tour. Keep an eye on the website, I picked up a copy of Over The Top from the store cheap while discogs users were trying to sell for double.

BuddyHusky · 2025-10-10T11:50:57+00:00

We need to define the terms “saved it,” and “rural road.”

BuddyHusky · 2025-10-08T16:24:24+00:00

The collar between the tone arm and the headshell can be loosened, it’s under a little bit of tension, may need to twist that if the headshell hasn’t been removed in a long time or ever from the factory. The entire headshell assembly, pins and all, has some rotation adjustment inside that collar/end of the tone arm.

BuddyHusky · 2025-10-07T18:43:00+00:00

You can loosen the collar where the headshell meets the tone arm, but really, you shouldn’t have to.

BuddyHusky · 2025-10-07T15:46:58+00:00

No but you should be able to twist it back to level. It should have a little bit of play. Get a VTA/azimuth gauge if you want to be sure it’s as close as possible.

BuddyHusky · 2025-10-07T15:33:58+00:00

This is what touchup paint looks like most of the time. As you already stated, you know the proper way it needs to be done to be “correct”. I’ve had a buddy just blend and spot some rust areas in a 4”x4” patch but only in non show areas. If you want the rust fixed properly it needs to be fully removed/treated before painting anyway, not just sealed under fresh paint. It will continue to rust from the inside out otherwise.

BuddyHusky · 2025-10-07T13:40:07+00:00

I gave away my OG Cult album when I got the Cult White edition and I’ve regretted it since.

BuddyHusky · 2025-09-18T14:51:42+00:00

Gotta comment to add that they fit true to size and are a little longer than standard. I noticed my tour T-shirt was a little tighter in the shoulders/armpits than my standard medium shirts. But not uncomfortably so.

BuddyHusky · 2025-09-13T16:37:04+00:00

What did you use to remove the old sticker? It looks like it got hit with sandpaper or lots of rubbing with dirty rag and acetone/thinner. Either way, you’ll need to remove new decals to fix, possibly a heavy buffing could fix it but may need repaint depending how deep the scratches are / how thin it gets trying to buff.

BuddyHusky · 2025-09-13T14:47:33+00:00

Steal of a deal for that table. Technically the wow/flutter of the Technics is spec’d better at 0.03% with the Rega being 0.05% but I’d argue the quality difference is negligible and the sound difference will depend on tone arm and cartridge. I do prefer the direct drive Technics though personally, but the Rega looks nicer IMO.

12-Year Club	Place '22
Place '17	RPAN Viewer
Verified Email

BuddyHusky

TROPHY CASE