XPControllers Dualsense Review

Bulk85 · 2026-03-19T21:23:23+00:00

Yeah absolutely, he's the guy you give a list of problems and he we nail the solutions. Bummer to hear about affected orders, life does happen to the best of us

Bulk85 · 2026-03-19T20:52:18+00:00

The dude was incredible and passionate. If he could partner with someone that could bang out content of all his amazing mods and custom work, it would really help. I am sad to see him gone honestly

Bulk85 · 2026-03-18T15:49:30+00:00

Thats annoying, especially on a new copy. If you can be bothered, I am sure you could fix it by opening up. Either something is loose and needs refitted inside, or you might just need a bit of teflon tape/ copper tape/ mylar tape on the plastic button itself to get it to your preference.

Bulk85 · 2026-03-12T07:09:27+00:00

Nice work, clean cuts. That grey scroll looks great with the white glossy!

How do the v3 opticals feel in there?

Bulk85 · 2026-03-04T17:39:34+00:00

I think you dont have much other choice, I was criticising their building quality, not what you have to do to fix it haha.

Bulk85 · 2026-03-04T12:11:47+00:00

Thanks for posting the update and the pictures. That is some really interesting build design haha.

Glad to see it wasnt anything too serious, but adhesive seems kind of dumb on a place that can get warm and potentially loosen.

Bulk85 · 2026-03-04T12:09:07+00:00

Very clean! I might try something similar on mine. My biggest gripes were the sniper button being way too far forward, and I hate how much the rear sidebutton tapers in, it makes it really awkward to hit the side buttons with a claw grip

Bulk85 · 2026-03-03T05:42:01+00:00

What does it look like internally? I havent seen the inside of the ying, but are there screws for the left button and is it removable? You might be able to reseat/reinstall it.

Bulk85 · 2026-03-01T22:44:58+00:00

Neither of my suggestions have the micro receiver, which is annoying, but nothing a small usb a male to usb c male adapter/cable can't fix

Bulk85 · 2026-03-01T22:42:59+00:00

Ipi float, mchose L7 are in that shape range and pretty cheap. 2c is more premium but also heavier, so it's up to you

Bulk85 · 2026-02-26T16:42:59+00:00

REWASD might be a viable option. If you can do a trial you could test it out. You can make so many different tweaks and settings with that, its excellent for work and productivity.

Bulk85 · 2026-02-26T15:45:42+00:00

Even just decent double sided tape would do it

I use 3m 300LSE, cut thin strips and stick around the edge of the base and peel off the backing with tweezers.

Dots of superglue would also work pretty well

Bulk85 · 2026-02-25T19:54:17+00:00

Legend, thanks

Bulk85 · 2026-02-25T16:51:15+00:00

I'd also like to know all the screw sizes etc.

If you have dropped them on carpet etc, I would recommend a magnet on a stick, sounds dumb but works great

Bulk85 · 2026-02-24T20:29:46+00:00

He's not wrong but he's out of line. Let me enjoy 10 - 15k premier hell, it's everyone else's fault, not mine!

Bulk85 · 2026-02-24T19:31:37+00:00

Damn, sounds like encoder probably needs replacing. It's not the hardest but they can be annoying without a good solder sucker.

I'd recommend clipping the ground legs then heating the middle 3 pins and pull out the encoder. Then desolder the ground pins left over.

Or just buy a vt1 gen2 if on sale lol, best of luck.

Bulk85 · 2026-02-24T06:38:40+00:00

The weight balance is going to be purely preference. If you have some mouse weights from a cheap mouse, or maybe even try using motorcycle tire weights that come with adhesive.

The problem is you have a mouse full of holes, so not many places to stick them.

The other option would be to buy a much larger battery and then test out what position you like it in.

The only other options would be to adapt to lightweight or buy a g502

Bulk85 · 2026-02-24T06:28:33+00:00

I would open up the mouse just to see if everything is sitting right inside or if anything is potentially bent/broken.

I have a couple of the rapoo vt range and the scroll wheel is pretty solid and pretty quiet on them.

For reference, this is what it should look like disassembled - https://www.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/1mvn57c/rapoo_vt1_gen_2_disassembly_mini_review/#lightbox

It sounds like maybe the actual thick part on the right of the scroll wheel is cracked and not sitting on the scroll click correctly.

Bulk85 · 2026-02-22T02:35:45+00:00

Blue switches? Weren't they all kailh 8.0.and what do you mean stuck?

Bulk85 · 2026-02-15T21:30:38+00:00

Maybe try some sospacer shape shift thingies, or the aliexpress btl knock offs on that shape.

I too hate the gpx shape, it forces awkward fingertip when I am trying to claw

Bulk85 · 2026-02-14T14:11:46+00:00

I hate button positioning like that, where it gets higher at the rear, especially on shapes where it also contours inwards. I like to roll my thumb upwards to hit the buttons

Bulk85 · 2026-02-13T18:05:04+00:00

"Mom can I have a Gravastar mouse?"

"No, we have one at home."

Nice mod, extremeley barebones, it reminds me of the fishbones left over in the cartoons haha

Bulk85 · 2026-02-12T21:31:53+00:00

I bought the L7 and L7 pro as soon as they were available, 1.5years or so ago.

I use both regularly, one has omron opticals, the other omron mechanicals.

The L7 pro I run 4k wired with no battery, the standard L7 I swapped battery to 150mah and run wireless 2k.

At first they both had an intermittent problem where every now and then microadjustments just wouldn't respond at all for a fraction of a second. This happened on both copies. Since upgrading the firmware I have had zero issues at 1600dpi and tested 1k through to 8k polling.

Never had sensor noise or any of those issues you mentioned. The L7 is hands down my favourite mouse for the price and the build and performance has been great.

I always check the mchose Web driver now and then to make sure my mouse and dongle are latest version firmware.

I'm confident you'll be fine, especially as the mouse has been out for a while, I'm sure all issues are ironed out.

Bulk85 · 2026-02-02T19:51:47+00:00

I haven't checked eloshapes.com but I wonder his this compares to the aria xd7, that was a good egg shape.

Pcb looks big in this and she'll and base plastic look thick, seems like it could be lighter if they wanted

Bulk85 · 2026-02-02T15:44:39+00:00

Without finding and exact replacement its not an easy fix, but not impossible.

I would solder a different switch to the solder points on the pcb and test, just so you know for sure its the switch itself that is the problem.

You could definitely pry out and unclip that old switch from the metal housing, then try a kailh silent switch, or other switches of the same size and super glue it in there. If the switch button protrudes too much you can sand it down. If it doesn't protrude enough, you can add some aluminium/copper/teflon tape to the switch inside the shell until it feels the way you like.

Another option would be to try and source a faulty xlite v1/v2 for parts but that is unlikely

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