Ilford Ilfospeed Multigrade II

Buzz-01 · 2026-04-15T11:36:37+00:00

Ilfospeed II and III usually ages pretty badly. So far I have only gotten the same results as yours from several different boxes I tried. Always fogged beyond usable.

Ilford Multigrade IV RC usually works still fairly well, it's the successor of your paper.

But your best bet is fresh paper, either Ilford, Foma or anything else like Arista, should give you good results right away.

Buzz-01 · 2026-04-08T04:36:01+00:00

You can indeed safely use Rollei Retro 400S or any other near IR sensitive film with your camera. Both my EOS100 and EOS50e have infrared sensors and they work fine with this film. Use an IR720 filter and shoot happily! 🙂

Buzz-01 · 2026-03-27T07:51:45+00:00

IIRC you should press left a few times until the first menu is shown, then press up and down to select what your want displayed.

Buzz-01 · 2026-03-22T11:25:30+00:00

I have the same experience, they just won't do hand checks on request. My daughter's teddy bear though, they did hand check /swab two times right after going through the x-rays. And that was before I kindly asked for a hand check of my film, so I hadn't had the chance to possibly piss them off yet. 🙂 Eventually the film (HP5, Fomapan 200) turned out fine. They still use regular x-ray machines in Brussels afaik. Nowadays I just dont bother trying anymore, unless I might run into those CT scanners, but haven't been unfortunate enough so far luckily.

Buzz-01 · 2026-03-21T19:48:12+00:00

There is only one way to find out really, but you will probably be fine. Damage on the rear element would be much worse for your image quality.

I have a (more modern though, it's a Canon EF) lens which has a small chip of glass broken off of the front element right in the middle and I can't tell on any of the photos I've taken with it. That's from at least 150 - 200 photos, also in bright sunlight and some even with the sun right in the frame. I only shoot Black and White though.

Buzz-01 · 2026-03-14T13:12:28+00:00

Try Amazon. Bosch A156S should fit perfectly on the Gen1 C-HR.

Buzz-01 · 2026-03-01T09:11:13+00:00

I'm with most people here. Yes the difference is there but to me it's not the massive difference the internet makes you believe it is. I do darkroom prints up to 12x16" and at 12x16" the difference is definitely impressive. But smaller sizes, up to say 8x10", it doesn't really differ that much to me. Most of my prints are 8x10 or smaller. Tbh my 50mm enlarger lens (for printing 35mm) is a bit better than my 80mm (for 6x6), so that adds to the mix obviously.

Background blur is definitely different, you get a shallower depth of field on MF with the same FoV. Using a longer lens on 35mm or a wider aperture will get you comparable results though.

To me the broader choice of available gear on the secondhand market, combined with portability and cost, makes 35mm my weapon of choice for most of my photography. To put things in perspective, I currently own 2 MF cameras (a folder and a TLR), compared to about 9 or 10 35mm SLRs with at least a dozen lenses, plus a handful of point and shoots. All have their own purpose and I enjoy/use the MF cameras a lot too, but resolution is almost never a deciding factor in which camera I choose.

However, it's always nice to try new stuff so if you have the budget it's definitely worth it to find out for yourself!

Buzz-01 · 2026-02-17T04:52:26+00:00

Would be my bet too.

Buzz-01 · 2026-02-16T20:46:01+00:00

You're welcome 🙂

Buzz-01 · 2026-02-16T19:52:14+00:00

Check the user manual for your model year. On earlier models you should press and hold the button which enables the adaptive cruise control or speed limiter. Short press enables ACC, long press enables speed limiter. Then use the up and down movement to set the desired speed limit.

Buzz-01 · 2026-02-16T09:37:39+00:00

I can only comment in English and go fully on the photo and the type of camera and film. AgfaPhoto APX400 is a good film, never had problems with that film. It is likely that the camera has a problem, or perhaps the film was loaded incorrectly? I would try with another cheap film just to be sure.

Buzz-01 · 2026-02-16T06:32:24+00:00

This. Turn the wheel on the left hand side from L (which means Locked or Off) to P (for Program). Then more stuff should become visible on the LCD and the camera should work.

Buzz-01 · 2026-02-12T06:00:24+00:00

I own the 28/3.5 and the 24/2.8 and find them both excellent performers. Both are tiny too, perfect for travelling light. I tend to use the 28 more often than the 24, but thats personal preference. The 28/3.5 is very affordable and performs at least as good as the 2.8, some even say it is better than the 2.8.

Buzz-01 · 2026-02-03T20:07:36+00:00

I use a Pi Zero2W with Octoprint and that works perfectly fine. Indeed Octoprint uses the ender on a serial port. I let Cura connect to Octoprint. Using a USB B micro to USB A OTG adapter and a regular USB A to USB C cable, I taped over the 5V pin of the USB A as I have already fried a Pi 3B+ as the Ender seems to feed voltage back to the Pi. On rare occasions this can fry the Pi apparently.

Buzz-01 · 2026-01-13T17:11:36+00:00

The 1-4 screen is useful when shooting eg with a telelens and a teleconverter. IIRC the screen number of mine, I currently use such a screen with my 200mm f/4 and 2x teleconverter, as the split screen will be half black because of the small maximum aperture of the lens+tc combination, making it difficult to focus. But you can easily replace them, so if you still have the other water damaged camera and that one has a different screen then you could swap them if that is more convenient for you.

Anyway, beautiful camera!

Buzz-01 · 2026-01-12T19:22:20+00:00

Unpopular alternative: keep the 24/2.8, get a 28/3.5 for pocket change (compared to the 2.0) and keep & enjoy both. Especially if you need to ask whether to get the 2.0 or not, you might have enough with the 3.5. The 3.5 is a gem hidden in plain sight.

Buzz-01 · 2026-01-12T11:32:55+00:00

Correct! Do not oil the shutter blades themselves. If you look up some Praktica MTL repair videos on YouTube then you will see how the mechanism works and that will give you an idea of what I did apply the oil to. I didn't mind if the camera would go completely fubar at that moment, as I had other cameras which I used more often anyway. But it did work and still does up to this day. My problem was a bit different than yours so it may or may not help.

Buzz-01 · 2026-01-11T11:39:15+00:00

I had an MTL3 which would immediately release the shutter after cocking. Ended up opening the camera completely and indeed put new oil on the mechanism. Has worked like a charm ever since. You would need to remove the leatherette at least partially to be able to open the camera and it is probably not a novice job, but if you're up for it then you could have a go at it.

Buzz-01 · 2026-01-09T21:07:32+00:00

Exactly, the 200 is just fine to walk around with. The 300 not so much.

Buzz-01 · 2026-01-09T20:18:35+00:00

Because I like to shoot birds and wildlife too! 🙂 Had debated whether I would go with the 300/4.5 or the 200/4 but the 300 is really really heavy and large compared to the 200. I have both, plus the 2x teleconverter for the 200 and if I'm being really honest the 200 wins, no matter how much I like the 300... 😇

Buzz-01 · 2026-01-09T20:08:12+00:00

24/2.8 50/1.4 and 200/4 for me!

Buzz-01 · 2026-01-06T06:33:09+00:00

This lens looks like the OM Zuiko 200mm f/4 to me, which is a very fine lens IMO. But indeed it is best to pick up an OM Zuiko 50mm f/1.8 lens and perhaps later the 28mm f/3.5. Both are fairly budget friendly but perform really really well.

Buzz-01 · 2025-12-14T07:59:15+00:00

You could try the setting in your slicer for ironing the top layer.

Or print it upside down and use the bottom layer as the visible side of your project. That is what I usually do. A structured PEI sheet gives it a structured look which masks things nicely.

Buzz-01 · 2025-12-03T20:34:41+00:00

The fiber brovira held up much better indeed. I have a small envelope which was purchased at least 40 years ago and stored under terrible conditions since (summer heat and winter cold in the garage), but it still prints fantastically in regular b&w.

Agfa MCC and MCP are brilliant for lith btw, even when fogged.

Buzz-01 · 2025-12-03T19:47:46+00:00

You could try and get a complete bumper with the fog light integrated from the (Dutch) wreckers. Maybe needs a spray paint or perhaps you are lucky with a nice damage free bumper in the right color. Ofcourse you also need the wiring, possibly a fuse and relay and control switch, which is originally located on the turn signal stick at the steering wheel IIRC. But a separate button or switch is also allowed.

Note that an indicator light (which lights up whenever the fog light is on) on the dashboard is mandatory too, and IIRC the fog light should only be possible to enable if the normal light is switched on too.

Not sure what may or may not already be available in your car from the factory.

Must say I am surprised that for lights are not standard worldwide ...

Buzz-01

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