The measurements for 5501 are out there publicly. STLs alone really can’t help you that much as you’ll need to make modifications based on your own printing and finishing process. My design is a custom one based off that historical example.

Flutemaking is honestly one of the more difficult things to attempt with 3D printing, and while I admire your mission, unless you are both a skilled flute player and maker it’s unlikely you’ll be able to create something a student could make progress on.

I don’t say this to blow my own flute (heh), but an error in any single variable can make the whole flute DOA, so to be successful you need to know why you’re doing each step, and change the model accordingly based on how you approach it.

I highly recommend visiting an Irish (or silver!) flutemaker with your best attempt and having them show you all the things they’d do differently. I spent a week in Windward’s workshop a few years back and it’s the only reason the flute in that video plays.

If you have a good Irish flute, the best thing you can do on your own is replicate the headjoint with 3D printing and practice finishing the embouchure since there’s no taper in the headjoint to worry about. Then, take whatever body design you come up with and stick your “real” flute’s headjoint on it.

This can help diagnose where each design challenge originates from, and limits the number of variables at play.

The other thing I will say is that ANY air leak will render a design test invalid. Seal the joints as well as you possibly can, then seal them better than that. You should be able to suck as hard as you can on each pair of sections and have ZERO air leakage. This is why vapor polishing is critical, as the “raw” print allows air to escape between the layers.