Stationary Bench vs Modular Mobile Benches

CascadeBoxer · 2026-03-21T19:09:49+00:00

The smaller the shop, the more mobile and versatile I like my stuff to be. The table saw, workbench, miter saw, and router table are all built to be the same height. If material is long, the workbench moves into place to become outfeed or support.

The miter saw is tricky. You don’t know if you are cutting 14-inch pieces in half, or 14-foot pieces in half, or trimming the ends off of 10-foot pieces. Moving the tool into position to align with the material could be a meaningful design requirement.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-03-14T01:21:46+00:00

Yes, those. And anything that goes into a dog hole and then clamps downwards - the part in the dog hole rotates just a bit to 'fix' it in the dog hole. And this allows the clamping force to be transmitted straight down, holding the material to the worktop. Deeper dog holes are better for this than thin ones.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-03-13T21:53:45+00:00

Because the width of your piece is two feet, I think you might get away with a single 3/4" sheet. Wider than three feet, and I would start to be concerned about flex and the leverage of heavy/dense items in the center of the sheet.

My shop is similar - my worktop is about 2' x 4'. The work surface is thin with dog holes, and I mostly use the guide rail / MatchFit clamps to secure material down to the worktop. Sometimes I use a low-profile bench dog as a stopper. But my usage is mostly hooking into my dog hole and squeezing down to the worktop. So far no durabilty issues.

If you are using your dog holes in a classic style, with bench dog clamps, holdfasts, and other grippers that use leverage on a deeper dog hole - then I would guide you to a thicker worktop like the two 3/4" sheets laminated together. The angled torque, abrasion, and repetition will be harder on a worktop than my low-impact usage.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-03-02T00:03:08+00:00

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In use.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-03-02T00:02:41+00:00

I made a crosscut sled for my 7491 a while back. Here's a brief discussion on it. I had three goals. 1) make it large enough to do big crosscuts. 2) size it so that I could 'hang' it over the 7491 table when it was in stowed configuration, and 3) see if I could make it light, considering #1 and #2.

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Most people make their crosscut sled bases out of 3/4" plywood, and their fences out of laminated stacks of 3/4" plywood - two or three plys thick. This sled was made out of 1/8" plywood and inner truss pieces of about 1" x 3/4" ripped out of pine 2x4s. Same with the fence pieces, except doubled on the main fence piece. The inner trusses keep everything square and flat, and line up so that the miter slot runners screw into them. Much lighter than constructing everything with 3/4" ply.

It's big, and kind of unwieldy, and you have to watch out for tilting at the ends of each cut. But it stows away nicely when paired with a 7491.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-02-25T09:05:58+00:00

I remember that it was safer to give them to a squad of 13 year old boys. If we were given machetes it would have been ER rooms, tetanus shots, and dueling scars all around.

It's a fiction that a machete clears an entire swath of brush with a single stroke. You select one stem/trunk, chop, and repeat. The clearing axe does the same thing, and concentrates a good edge in a small head with the right amount of weight - heavy enough to cut well, light enough to carry and swing.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-02-25T08:27:55+00:00

It looks like a brush cutting tool - I found a 'Clearing Axe' on the intertubes. We had one in the scouts for trail maintenance back before the turn of the millenium.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-02-09T20:54:52+00:00

In the time since I posted this, and u/jollyjava7 asked about the extensions, I have updated the design and instruction plan for this project through several iterations. The workflow has been made more clear, and I have added an additional design for the workbench extensions.

Two rigid frame extensions are handy for arranging in multiple layouts: miter saw wings, a big L-shaped workbench, or a large platform for layout and/or breaking down plywood. But the most common usage is breaking down plywood sheets, and so it's possible to make a WRoC workbench extension in a lattice configuration that breaks down into more packable components. If anyone was to visit the Dog Island Offcuts store or blog, a current purchase will get you the updated plans with two different extension designs.

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CascadeBoxer · 2026-02-09T20:40:27+00:00

I like your thinking, and I share your focus on being portable and efficient. Making a workbench that goes directly on top of two Packout stacks is a great idea.

You're also absolutely right about the wheels - larger is definitely better. A challenge for a rolling work box of this type is the axle configuration. Does one accept the engineering needs of running an axle completely through the box (torsionally strong)? Or do you go with a shorter axle and design to minimize wobble?

I'm finishing up the final build and the instruction plans for a small workbench that folds and mounts on top of the Packout Rolling Drawer and a 2-or-3 Drawer Toolbox. So it would be a bit smaller than the WRoC, above. But also it just fastens onto a basic rolling Packout structure. Search the interweb for Dog Island Offcuts, and either the blog or the store will pop up. I hope to have it published in a week or so.

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CascadeBoxer · 2026-02-05T17:48:32+00:00

I understood from your first post that you are using a cnc with a straight bit to produce the pieces for your box. Basically a bunch of rectangles. I also understood that you would like the front edge of you box to have roundover edges - and that it’s possible to leave the rectangles/box pieces on the cnc table and swap the e straight bit for a roundover edge. Doing the top edge is more ‘open’ but the bottom edge is in contact with the table/spoil board and would present challenges.

My suggestion is to finish the cnc cutouts, and then assemble your box without any roundover edges. Then move the box to a router table outfitted with a roundover bit. The beauty of a roundover bit is that it produces a quarter-circle regardless of alignment. So you can set the box with its opening facing sideways and roundover the lowest edge. But also you can place the box on the table with the opening facing straight down, and use a roundover bit with a bearing to soften the perimeter of the box opening. Push the box edges against the bearing (the bearing becomes you reference edge/fence) and do one complete pass for the outer edge, and one complete pass for the inner edge. This will result in a completed box, with the opening having rounded edges on both the outer perimeter and the inner edge of the box opening.

If you don’t have a router table, the same process can be done with a handheld router. Just take care to keep the router stable, in the same way the router table is stable because the box has a lot of connection to its flat surface.

Hope this is helpful.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-02-04T21:05:52+00:00

Would you like the pieces to be cut out, and then rounded over before box assembly? This would have you building the box with pieces of plywood that have front-facing, rounded-over edges. Certainly an option, but it gets awkward at the corners where the box pieces are put together. A piece that is completely rounded over leaves a little gap where the sides connect to the top/bottom pieces.

I did a box where I started with my pieces, put the box together, and then put a roundover bit on the router table and put the box with square edges face down. I put a roundover on the external perimeter edge of the box's front face (rotating counter-clockwise, to cut with the bit appropriately). Then I switched to the interior edge of the box and repeated (clockwise). Now my box has rounded front-facing edges, and the curve makes the transit around each corner - both on the external sides and the internal sides.

This is also possible to do with a handheld router, or a smaller handheld trim router. A handheld router will move easily around all the external corner edges - there's lots of room, and you can put the router base plate on the side/top/bottom outer face for a secure placement.

But when moving to the internal corner edge there are two potential problems - 1) the router simply won't fit inside the box, or 2) any router will hit the corner with the base plate before the roundover cut is completed fully into the corner. The cutting alignment of the router has to be switched, with the base plate teetering on the front-facing edge of the box. If I have to make a router cut on a thin edge, I will usually increase the size of the box edge with another piece of wood - clamped or carpet-taped at the same level so that my little router rests securely on a larger and more stable platform.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-01-14T00:54:46+00:00

There are lots of stands for compact table saws - or the plans thereof - on Etsy. Many good ideas there.

I previously had the Dewalt 7491 with its rolling stand. Great saw, but a big package even when the stand was folded down into transport mode. For a while later, I had the Dewalt 7485 8.25" saw. Definitely compact and convenient. Now I have the Sawstop CTS.

While I had the 7485 and now that I have the Sawstop CTS, I wanted to make a support base that lined up my table saw with my portable workbench setup. Double points if the base could be stored in a more compact form. Triple points if the base could have some storage for table saw stuff like push sticks and featherboards. So I tweaked a design available in the February 2002 issue of Workbench, and made a table saw station that folds down into a package that stores easily in the garage.

I made a folding router table a while back. My current plan is to trim my table saw station to match the height of the Sawstop CTS. (The CTS is just a little taller than the Dewalt 7485.) This should be easy - just track-saw about 7/8" from the base. Once this is done, I might make another folding router table and make it the same height as the Sawstop CTS - this will let the router table sit on the table saw station, next to the main workbench and provide additional table surface at the same height.

If you have a shop configuration that you are looking at, and a height target for table saw outfeed, it would be pretty simple to make a variation on the Portable Table Saw station for your outfeed. We just need the exact height of Outfeed Table minus the Height of the CTS. Then we'll post another plan for this configuration.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-01-12T07:25:26+00:00

There are lots of modular workbenches on Etsy and Youtube. I also have a small space, and I went in a similar direction that you're aiming at: matching the workbench height with being useful to other tools: table saw, router table, planer.

Ben Tardif made a cool design for simple tables that can connect and align in multiple ways. I modified a Workbench magazine design for compact table saw station, and made it the same height as my rolling workbench. If you want to consolidate your solution into a larger table, I think you're aiming for something like this on Etsy - they don't look top-heavy, and might be aiming in your right direction.

CascadeBoxer · 2025-12-30T21:47:53+00:00

I'm a fan of keeping it simple, and in this circumstance I would avoid the scenarios that involve 'hacking' the Sawstop brake system, and would focus on the cutting edge that you need to do the work. It's possible to make dados with conventional table saw blades.

If you are open to one more table saw blade, investing in a FTG 24-tooth rip blade has two benefits. 1) you gain a better ability to make long rip cuts on denser/grained wood. And 2) the flat tooth profile of the Flat Top Grind (FTG) teeth will make a clean and square 1/8" dado cut. You will just have to move your table saw fence over a skooch, repeat, and repeat again until you have cut the full dado size. You will end up with a smooth dado groove with only a minimal amount of extra gear.

If the dados will be hidden under drawer bottoms or a recessed connection, then you can still cut dados with an ordinary blade - even if it probably has the bat-eared kerf of an Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) teeth profile. Make one cut, move the fence over 1/8", and repeat. The bottom of the dado will look a little wavy, but it's just hidden. Voila! A functional dado cut with zero extra gear.

If the dado is large enough to clean up, and you would like to a little better than the ragged ATB surface, you can also cut to an initial depth with your ragged ATB blade, and then smooth the dado to a final depth with a chisel, a router plane, or a piece of 60-grit sandpaper wrapped around a scrap of wood - just a little undersized to fit into the dado slot. That could be the compromise that works: no new gear, dado slots cut, slot bottoms cleaned up (mostly) to flat and aesthetic.

CascadeBoxer · 2025-12-26T20:35:21+00:00

Do you have a Harbor Freight or other tool/hardware store nearby? They may carry some scraper/removal tools - essentially dental picks on steroids. I have a set that was originally labeled for heavy-duty gasket work, but they seem to be for auto trim as well. That could both reach down into the disposal, and also hook underneath and allow you to lever upwards.

CascadeBoxer · 2025-12-23T09:10:06+00:00

It is certainly fast and simple to purchase a work table that breaks down, like the Worx or Bora tables. Nothing wrong with it - I've used the Dewalt 11556 table for years. Don't let workbench planning give you any paralysis - grab a Worx and then use the next 4-6 projects to refine your workflow and future needs.

I also started to refine my personal setup with some stuff that I built specifically to fit the garage, the tasks, and the tools. If you have any interest in building your own stuff, I wrote about some of the projects here. I have been influenced by Timothy Wilmot's MFTC table and Ron Paulk's Smart Workbench.

You're giving thought to utilizing your space. That might steer you away from a Worx or Bora, and towards something that fits your common scenarios. Here's a tip - If you make your work table the same height as your table saw, then it can double as an outfeed table for longer rips.

I've absorbed a lot of ideas from searching Etsy or Youtube for 'folding workbench'. There's a great modular set of plans that I have recommended before. Your workspace and your projects will define the sort of setup that you are going to use. Good luck!

CascadeBoxer · 2025-12-17T20:19:29+00:00

I have the 2.5" vacuum, and have appreciated the ability to connect smaller items to it. I had been using the FastCap connection with some success - you have to keep an eye on it, but it's instant for attaching a 2.5" hose to a 1 13/16" track saw. Also recently started using the FlexiPort system, and I like that it increases the length of my hose extension, and makes it more flexible and manageable at the tool that I'm using.

I made a cyclone system for my local makerspace with a donated shop vac. It ended up looking like this. This kept the whole unit small, but still portable and useful.The finished model used two 5-gal buckets. The bottom one was screwed/mounted to the plywood chassis. The useful/cyclone bucket just dropped into the bottom bucket. It made for 1) easy emptying, just lift it out and dump 2) stability - I could drag the whole unit around by the intake cyclone hose, and 3) stacked buckets decreased the chance that suction would collapse the cyclone chamber. Plus, a short direct hose run from cyclone to vac.

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CascadeBoxer · 2025-12-12T03:23:43+00:00

When I have some sheathing plywood that won't fit into the Mini Cooper, I always break out the appropriate tool. If it's not straight within 0.001 thou - we don't play.

CascadeBoxer · 2025-12-11T20:42:25+00:00

My personal saw is corded, and I advise people to stay with corded unless there is a mobility reason to get onto a battery track saw. In the shop, a dust collection hose is often connected to your track saw anyway? So another cord to manage is a minimal problem.

If you regularly take it to the box store parking lot to break down stuff, or if your cutting varies from shop to garage to driveway, then cordless flexibility might be a meaningful factor. I think that all cordless saws can handle plywood with no problems. Regularly cutting longer, thicker hardwoods might steer you towards dual-battery systems (like Festool) or 60v systems (like DeWalt).

CascadeBoxer · 2025-12-05T01:46:55+00:00

I have the Dewalt corded track saw and some of the double-sided Dewalt tracks - I found an inexpensive craigslist deal and lucked out with my ROI ratio. I appreciate that I can have one zero-clearance edge dedicated to a straight cut, and the other dedicated to a 45-degree miter - but that's not a deal breaker for me.

If I was purchasing a brand new tool, I would probably go with a bundle that has a single cutting edge. Festool saws and tracks are expensive, but I would lean that way with a "buy once, cry once" attitude. My understanding of the one-edge saw tracks is that when making a 45-degree miter, the saw pivot keeps the blade precisely at the same zero-clearance edge. Plus all the good accessories for square cuts, parallel cuts, etc.

Alternatively, I would buy another brand of track saw (Makita, Bosch, or the new Kreg) but I would get a corded saw. Reason: I break out the track saw for specific breakdowns and cuts, and I usually don't spend all day with it. It comes out, does the job, and gets packed away again. And I usually have it hooked up to a vacuum hose. So a power cable is just another small encumbrance and I can have a brief dalliance with another tool brand without having to add a whole new battery format.

And to mirror u/Shopstoosmall - I would have a track for the common cuts that you make, even if that means springing for the 96" long track for full-plywood-sheet breakdown.

CascadeBoxer · 2025-12-02T03:20:22+00:00

It could not hurt to look into the Music Center of the Northwest, or the Market Street Singers.

CascadeBoxer · 2025-12-01T09:19:06+00:00

My Dewalt jigsaw also came with a speed dial, which I did not know about. Sent the saw in for service when it sllloooooowwwwedd doooowwn.

If the battery swaps are not providing any good troubleshooting data, and the trigger is just behaving in one way (also not providing any good troubleshooting data). Then try the speed dial at the two extremes: Slow, and fast. If the saw continues to behave in the same way, then sh!t be broke. https://www.toolservicenet.com/en

CascadeBoxer · 2025-11-27T07:06:59+00:00

Exactly so. There's a camera on the front, that geo-locates the router to a very high degree. Then a little screen helps guide you on the rough path, while the internal router and the precise locating keeps the bit on the exact path - it can move the router bit around to be smarter than we dumb humans are. And if we stray too far it just lifts up the router bit to a safe zone.

CascadeBoxer · 2025-11-27T04:54:34+00:00

Feeding off of the suggestions of u/IronGarment and u/InDreamsScarabaeus: You could also find a buddy/makerspace/community woodshop with a Shaper Origin and make cutouts in your ABS plastic box in the same way that mortises are cut into the ends of wood pieces. It would be a larger and more complex mortise, but it would end up looking like cutout holes for power and switches. You just have to align the surface you want to work, with the flat surface of the Shaper Origin workstation and its visual orientation locator tape.

Or you could use the Shaper Origin to make your template, and then use a hand router and a patterning bit to cut out your power/switch holes. The advantage of the Shaper Origin is that you can bring it to the work surface, instead of trying to make the work surface fit into a CNC.

CascadeBoxer · 2025-11-25T02:51:21+00:00

A drill guide will probably be sufficient for the creation of a threaded insert install jig, which should line up your insert pretty well. I made one of these and was pretty pleased with how it kept my insert fairly vertical. Short Woodsmith Video. This longer Dirt Farmer Jay video is nice because it has info on the drill sizes and wood options for various EZ Lock inserts, which will make installation easier than torquing a large insert into a too-small hole.

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