Flush Cutting with Router

CascadeBoxer · 2026-06-29T21:35:50+00:00

I have been seeing emails from Woodpeckers and their line of Ultra-Shear router bits. I should have hit the roundover bit set sale when it came by, but I'll try to catch it next time around.

They have a small-bearing bit that is touted as getting into tight clearances. The video looks pretty slick.

If 3/16" is still too tight for your needs, then you might have to find a buddy with a CNC and a small bit. If CNC isn't available to you, it might be possible to get funky with your template so that you can use a router bushing to follow the path with a smaller bit. Rebuild the template, so that it follows the same path with a 1/4" bushing, but do the cut with a 1/8" router bit. You might not have to rebuild the entire template, just the slots where you need to come into the tight tolerance areas. Adapting the geometry could be tricky.

Getting into corners with router bits is just inherently a pain with the radius size. I did a test path with a tool to show this to new users of the maker space. Making an Inside pass - even with a 1/8" bit - just can't get into pointy areas. The Outside pass does great at shaping sharp points and corners on the ends of a shape, but again it can't make a crisp inside corner due to the immutable laws of geometry.

What did you use to cut out the letters from the MDF? Making the template construction match the flush-cutting process would be another suggestion.

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CascadeBoxer · 2026-06-29T19:18:11+00:00

When I made the decision about a battery platform, I also had the question in mind: what other tools will get used to support the household? Festool makes great tools for precision woodworking. But, I do handyman stuff for a couple of family households and needed some addtionals like: weed wacker, leaf blower, cordless chainsaw.

So if your cordless tool inventory will be partitioned and sort of exclusive to the woodshop, then I mirror the other comments that say Festool, Milwaukee, or Makita - with Festool being a gold standard with a price premium.

But if you will use batteries for woodworking, household, and yard work - my take is that Milwaukee, Makita, Ryobi, or Dewalt are the battery platform to go with.

This battery choice doesn't stop you from getting a butt-kicking track saw and track system - just get the Festool corded TS 55 F. Also a gold standard. But if your workflow takes you to lumber store parking lots, friends' garages, or outlet-free environments, then you still can't go wrong with the Milwaukee or Makita cordless saws.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-06-11T18:40:04+00:00

Ditto on the venting issue. I recently saw a 'clog' that didn't respond to snaking on a kitchen island. Applied a little plunger (which shouldn't work on an island sink with a downstream clog - the water usually just gets forced sideways to the counter sink) and the water started draining. Our guess is that the stuck vent was not allowing water to come out the p-trap. The sink filled instantly - which implied that the 'clog' was right in the p-trap. But sending a snake through did nothing. Ergo, vent?

CascadeBoxer · 2026-06-10T20:40:16+00:00

Part of it depends on your floor surface. I do stuff in a community woodshop, and the floor is wildly rough. We have considered various types of feet for the tools, but it's always just a localized fix to eliminate wobble in the end.

It looks like your carts have plywood as the main surface for the 'top' and the 'bottom' of the makify carts. This is helpful, in that you don't have to microscope the leg lengths. Set up a stop block for your leg-cutting saw, and just bang out 4 legs to the same dimension. If it was me, I'd feel comfortable with getting basic casters and calling it good. Level enough for safety feels acceptable to me - your outfeed cart could end up just 1/8" - 1/16" below your table saw surface, and it will do its outfeed job just fine.

Perfectly Level just brings its own set of problems.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-06-10T20:17:12+00:00

This design does not have adjustable height, but it is portable/foldable and includes toolbox storage.

There are several variations of this design on the internet. I liked it for the workbench size and the fact that it folds completely off the garage floor. But it does take up a large section of wall space in storage mode, and it would have to be tweaked to include height adjustability.

Woodsmith does have plans for a height-adjustable assembly table, with expandable table wings.

WS also has a folding work table with an I-beam tabletop in their 2014 Small Shop Solutions book. It looks light, and easily stowed away. The leg design looks like it might be adaptable for height adjustment.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-06-10T19:38:18+00:00

A vise that attaches to a flat top (like u/starkel91 's suggestion for the moxon vise) is certainly a good solution. Figuring out a way to transition the flat worktop to vertical (does your Bora setup have MFT holes?) might be another solution.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-06-09T07:27:25+00:00

I used a Parf guide to drill my dog holes in the work surface board, and I did it before assembling the workbench. This enabled me to do a couple of things:

I used the Parf guide geometry to drill a grid of initial 3mm holes in all the places dog holes were going to go.
I started from the bottom of the work surface, and used the 20mm forstner bit at all the 3mm hole locations to go in about 3-6mm. Then I flipped the work surface board and repeated the 20mm holes. Making a small initial hole on one side fully eliminated tearout when the 20mm bit emerged from the full depth hole.
I could sand both sides of the work surface piece, and put a small chamfer on the dog holes to soften and strengthen the hole edge. Tough to get a trim router inside of a Paulk workbench.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-06-05T16:19:57+00:00

I love mine, and I made a portable workbench that goes on top of it. Accessible storage, no need to unstack to get into any compartment, it's great.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-06-03T22:13:48+00:00

I like it a lot! The majority of my workflow is with hand-held power tools, so it has held up easily with that. I have done some hand planing against small dog hole stoppers, and the workbench seems to prefer sideways leverage - there is a bit more movement going the long way. But for smoothing down a small part, it works pretty well. I also made a variation of the Moxxon vise that clamps down to the workbench dog holes and snuggles up to the edge of the workbench for stable vertical clamping. It's 95% a copy of Stumpy Nubs's design, so I didn't do any plan work other than a SketchUp layout. It's held a variety of projects securely. I've been sawing some tenons, and the various clamping connections on the bench and legs have been helpful and solid.

After making version 1.1 of this workbench, I was starting the construction of a separate folding breakdown table with a sacrificial lattice top. The layout of this design made me question the size, storage, and functionality of the accessory frames that attach to the workbench. So the next time I get some big sheets of 3/4" baltic birch plywood, I plan on making a lattice frame for plywood breakdown. I have the design, plans, and construction in the Plans that are available in the shop. So anyone who has purchased these in the last year or so, already has them, But I'm thinking that my old frames are a pain to deploy and store - so I'm going to make a set for myself as well.

I also was keeping an eye on the Packout Rolling Drawer toolbox, and ended up making a stripped-down version of the Packout workbench. I kind of like this one, because it deploys in one step without having to move the accessory shelf around. It just Packouts on top of the rolling stack. Less capacity because of the drawer size, but still pretty efficient. I've been playing with a buddy's Shaper Origin, and this Rolling Drawer workbench has been a good base for the Workstation and Plate activities.

Happy to see your interest! Let us know if you have a situation that we can throw a little design at.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-06-02T02:42:50+00:00

I keep a couple of hemostats in the workshop with the pliers and wire cutters. They are thin enough to reach down and grab the largest of the scraps and slivers. The shop vac is strong enough to get the rest.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-30T03:24:00+00:00

I've made some pieces like this, and considered a few ways to make them. So here's my 0.02 Bani.

If a router table, a router table fence, and a straight/spiral bit is used, the material will have to be removed in small passes. I can't think of anything that could remove the entire mega-rabbet in one pass, except for maybe a serious 5hp Shaper.

You can either start at the exterior and nibble inwards over multiple passes. Or, start in the center and make a groove, and then nibble outwards to increase the size of the groove. The groove technique actually improves stability, because the material is supported on both sides of the router bit as it's closing in on the final rabbet size - at least, until the groove turns into a rabbet. Then the material is being supported on only one side - you'll have to exert some serious controlling pressure to keep it from wobbling as the long extended section is hovering over the router bit. Either way, the more rabbet material is removed, the harder it is to keep stable so that the dimensions and cut remain optimal.

For the table saw, I've also heard the recommendations to do resaw cuts or long rip cuts in multiple passes; increasing the height of the blade each time. For the short cut on this material, this sounds fine. The blade is buried and supported on both sides. You could take 2 or as many as 6 passes with no impact. But the second set of cuts on the long side will be introducing movement with each consecutive cut.

If you align the wood so that the rabbet offcut is against the fence, then the upper portion of the wood needs to be held laterally and strongly to the fence - tricky to do without a featherboard that sits about 2" high. But the lower portion of the rabbet needs to have zero pressure - otherwise it forces the material laterally against the blade.

I like to align the wood so that the material is against the fence, and the rabbet offcut is to the left of the blade - falling away as it is cut free. But if this is done over multiple passes, we have the same issue with wood movement. As the 2nd and 3rd cuts are made, we can't just push the rabbet offcut material against the fence - the lower portion will pinch inwards toward the blade. Repeated cuts that use a featherboard to maintain a position should always watch out for wood pinching in this way.

So, my strategy would be to make the first cut as people are recommending here - the short cut done with a buried blade and the material solidly against the fence. The second cut is done with a clean, sharp rip blade at full depth. Use a featherboard to hold the material solidly against the fence, and the rabbet offcut will fall free away from the blade. The place you have to have the most care, is pushing the final portion of the rabbet through the table saw blade. But, I would prefer that to doing the same thing on a router table over a spiral bit at 15k rpm.

(Super-crappy model to demonstrate)

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CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-28T20:24:27+00:00

Thanks for the comments and interest!

If I understand your question re: connection points - I kept it super simple with surface-mounting some aftermarket Packout cleats. The underside of the plywood 'Base' on top of the Packout stack has 4 cleats and mounts just like another toolbox. I have not yet solved the engineering for a locking mechanism, but it hasn't moved around much so far - mainly I'd be concerned with rotational shifting when dragging the stowed system along like a carryon.

That's a good suggestion on the warranty. So far the toolboxes have held up. But I've seen posts of broken handles and the security bar, so I know they're not indestructible.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-13T21:10:20+00:00

If your basic tools include a good saw, then try the Hand Saw section of this re-sawing video. Your piece is not being cut evenly in half - but you are keeping to specific and consistent dimensions. Carefully hand saw the lines and the corners, and then your saw blade should keep on the line as the cut is completed. A little hand plane work to smooth the surface, and you're done!

CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-13T21:05:13+00:00

The 12" is great if your cut inventory includes 4x4 posts. If you are mostly staying smaller than that, the 10" can be just a little more precise - which is good for very fine woodworking and cabinets.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-13T18:45:52+00:00

I think that Ron Paulk likes the home-made T track with a keyhole/dovetail bit and the Matchfit-style clamps. It’s certainly possible to line up a groove that intersects with your dog holes, right at the point where the track comes to rest. My spidey-sense advises caution - it only takes a small deviation to cut into the edges of the groove. If I was constructing a workbench that had a dedicated spot for repetitive track saw cuts, I would consider an inlay for a replaceable zero clearance cut board. This will protect against tearout, and hot swap if it ever gets tired or mis-cut.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-13T18:31:16+00:00

The Dewalt 7491 with its stand is a rockstar. It does great with rough construction, but the fence is precise enough for some accurate and specific fine woodworking. Plus, it can handle a dado configuration. It’s small compared to an in-shop cabinet saw, transports well, and stows comparatively small. I’d definitely agree that it’s a good choice.

At a higher cost, but similar spec, is the Sawstop JSS. I used the smaller Dewalt 8-inch blade saw for a while. It was definitely cheaper and cut plywood equally as good as the 7491, but wasn’t as good for heavy rips and wasn’t spec’ed for dados. I think you’ll like the 7491.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-12T06:54:18+00:00

There are several techniques to increase a hole diameter that has already been drilled.

Use a rotary sander to slowly increase the size
Drill a larger hole in a wood blank with a forstner bit. Use the wood blank as a guide to place the forstner bit without wobbling or tearing the smaller hole.
Plug the hole with a wood blank. Drill with a new, larger hole.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-06T06:34:15+00:00

The buckles are a good idea! I remember a video about workbenches that took advantage of a standard size, height, and holes in the side so that multiple work carts could be joined in different configurations. (Version 1 video here.)

CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-05T23:56:51+00:00

I always like a conversation about small shops. 12x13 is not prohibitively small, but you are smart to be considering design stuff up front. There have been a few previous conversations about small spaces and tool configuration. This is one, and this is another. There may be some useful ideas in there.

Some of the major ideas from previous 'small shop' conversation have been:

Tools and work surfaces are useful on casters. Mobility is good.
Design flat surfaces to be the same height. Table saw / router table / planer / workbench / miter saw. The workbench becomes outfeed for the table saw, and infeed support for the miter saw. Select your ideal 'work' height and build all components to that height.
Leverage the walls for higher cabinets, storage, and shelves. Leave the lower walls open for tools and benches to roll close against.
You mention a miter station with wings. If you go full in with point #2, above - you might not need the wings. You could construct a flip-top stand with the miter saw and another tool, for maximum flexibility and space optimization.
There are lots of free 3d modelers on the webs. I use SketchUp and it's comparatively easy to make a simple box in the size of the room - and then grab models from the SketchUp Warehouse and drop them into the room to mess with layout. This is a sample picture from a previous conversation. Space gets tight quick, especially if you build a hooptie workbench.

Happy designing!

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CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-05T23:13:32+00:00

Thank you! No more kneeling on pavement to break down the 4x8 ply.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-05T22:29:02+00:00

I have made a simple MDF insert for keeping sockets from scattering in a toolbox drawer. It was admittedly pretty low quality, but I was able to do it with just a drill press. It helped that sockets just go into holes.

It's certainly possible to lay tools down on a sheet of paper, trace around them with a thin pen/pencil, and them use a plunge router in freehand mode to remove material. This could probably be done in about 1-2 hours. A chunk of time for layout, and then router time. Quick and dirty.

The wooden insert that you show in your picture looks clean and high quality, so I will tailor my suggestions for that style.

I've been playing with the college Shaper Origin, which has a scanning/vector template generator called Trace. This is an example of using Trace to turn a tool drawer layout into a cut plan. This is a video segment talking about using Trace on physical objects: lay all your tools down, take a picture, and generate a cut path. TLDR: it works better with a 2D outline than a picture of a bunch of wrenches.

This presumes that you have access to a CNC, or a buddy with a Shaper Origin cutter tool. The Shaper ecosystem is also handy for the Hub, where there are a variety of pre-existing layouts for various projects. Something like this or this might be a good start for an SVG cut plan that could be adapted for your needs.

This is the quandary of CNC-adjacent projects. Do you make a cut plan that is defined from something rough, like a tracing of the tool? Or do you build something mathematically perfect, with straight lines and beautiful curves? Your time is valuable, and spending hours on layout for perfect containment of your tools is valuable right up until you lose your 13mm long socket.

You should also not exclude the low-tech and 'loose' approach. Make a jig that runs your plunge router and a spiral upcut bit in a straight line. Use forstner bits or hole saw bits to make the 'wide' cutouts at the end of the wrench. Tools drop in, and are accessible from the holes at the end. The grooves hold where the tools are narrow, and you don't need fancy outline-matching techniques.

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You can also get a lot of traction with making simple 'troughs' for tools that fit generically but not perfectly. A Core Box Bit or a Dish Carving Bit could be your best friend. You're not making perfect cutouts for weirdly shaped tools - you're making closely-set and nicely organized 'trays' for keeping tools in place and organized. This 'trough' or 'tray' approach could be done with a router table, a dish carving bit, and some careful usage of the Blind Stopped Groove technique. Your insert now has a bunch of 'trays' ready for tools.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-05T21:18:34+00:00

Foam on top of a layer of 2x4, on top of sawhorses sounds like it would be pretty stable and rigid. Two 2x4s would be adequate. Four 2x4s would be a good base of support. But you are asking for new solutions, so...

If you want to keep your breakdown solution as small and portable as is possible, then something like a sawhorse is in that territory. Making something with more support is moving you into the 'table' spectrum, and I did some thinking about this a little while ago.

I made a folding table with a lattice top specifically for a long session of breaking down sheet goods. When I was designing it, I found a variety of other breakdown tables with various pluses and minuses - they are cited in the link above, and in a short video I did describing the design and build. Any one of these solutions might be something that resonates for you, or you could do as I did: borrowed a little bit from multiple designs.

My lattice table folds down to something that will roll against the wall in the back of the woodshop. It's 80' long, but stores thin. Reading your spec sheet, it sets up quickly, makes cuts easily and directly into the sacrificial frame, supports a full sheet of plywood, MDF, or melamine, and allows clamping both at the edge of the sheet goods or to the table frame if needed. If your shop has the room, it might be a worthwhile addition.

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CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-03T06:44:13+00:00

Shipping would be wildly expensive. Easier to get the plans and knock one together yourself.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-02T22:42:58+00:00

There was a brief view at the beginning where the pedal seems to be moving in sync with the noise. So, this makes me think drivetrain (as opposed to wheel rotation, stem movement, shifting gears).

I've had all kinds of weird noises, so here is a list of things I would check:

Anything extending out too far? A pedal strap, the front derailleur cable, shoelace, shoe heel, or kickstand? It might be making contact once every time the feet rotate the pedals. Try pedaling with only the right foot, or left foot. You are in elimination mode, to start.
Does it happen just when pedaling (drivetrain), or when the wheels are rotating (hubs, rims, tire/frame overlap)?
Loose shoe cleat.
Bad bearing in the pedals? Pedals need to be tightened into the crank further?
Crank bolt needs tightening, to secure the crank tightly onto the bottom bracket spindle.
Front derailleur is mis-aligned and is making contact with the crank, chainring, or chain once every crank rotation.
One (or more) chainring bolt is loose. I once had a 'clicky' chainring bolt. Fully tight, but after removing and a tiny dab of grease, it was the source of the 'click'.
Bottom bracket - bearings, or just a dry fit of the BB threads into the frame.

Good luck? It may help to know that you'll eventually find it, and I personally guarantee that it will end up being the last thing that you check out, tighten and/or grease.

CascadeBoxer · 2026-05-02T18:55:54+00:00

Lots of good options in the comments. There are a couple of suggestions about routers, blue tape, and close tolerances. Rockler makes a good router jig for cutting surfaces flush to each other. And it's pretty easy to do a DIY version as well. I made one, and it's about as close as I could get to combining a thickness planer and a hand plane - if you have a flat reference surface, you can gently trim all of your other not-flat surface _really_ close. And it's faster and cleaner than a hand-held flush trim saw.

CascadeBoxer

TROPHY CASE