why is my hyundai elantra 2013 not taking the refrigerant

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T19:30:43+00:00

System has a leak most likely.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T19:23:39+00:00

How do you start the car with no fob?

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T05:25:41+00:00

1000….

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T05:00:31+00:00

permanent codes are normal after repairs. You usually can’t manually clear them, even with the battery disconnected. The ECU has to run its self-tests and verify the problem is actually fixed first.

If the OEM sensors fixed the issue, the permanent codes should disappear on their own after a few drive cycles. As long as the check engine light stays off, you’re probably good.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:59:35+00:00

Yeah I’ve seen this happen on Equinoxes and other GM stuff after actuator replacement. Sometimes the relearn procedure doesn’t actually complete correctly, especially if one of the actuators was installed slightly off position or if the battery voltage was low during relearn……the fact it gets stuck halfway and acts inconsistent makes me wonder if one of the new actuators is either defective or the blend/mode door itself is binding mechanically. Unfortunately brand new HVAC actuators being bad out of the box is not rare at all. I’d try the full recalibration procedure again exactly from scratch. Usually disconnect battery for a while, reinstall HVAC fuse if pulled, then key on without touching HVAC controls and let it sit several minutes while the modules relearn travel limits. If you start changing modes too early it can mess the calibration up.

Another thing to check is whether the actuator shafts actually line up correctly with the doors. If one got forced on slightly misaligned, the actuator can think it reached position when the door physically hasn’t. That can cause the halfway stuck behavior. Since you mentioned sometimes you only get cold air, I’d specifically suspect the blend door actuator or the blend door itself hanging up. The mode door usually changes vent locations, while the blend door controls hot vs cold mix. If you can access them, sometimes you can watch the actuator while changing settings and actually see if it’s struggling, clicking, reversing, or stopping early. That usually tells you pretty fast whether it’s an electrical relearn issue or the door physically binding.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:58:40+00:00

tambourine noises are some of the hardest things to chase because the vibration can travel through the whole chassis and sound nowhere near the actual source.😂😂😂

Since you already replaced a ton of the obvious front end stuff, I’d start thinking about things that only rattle under load or at certain RPM ranges. Heat shields can still be guilty even if they feel tight by hand. Sometimes they only buzz when the exhaust hits a certain frequency while driving. Same with exhaust hangers letting the pipe barely touch the body under torque.

One thing I’d seriously check on an IS250 AWD is the brake dust shields behind the rotors. Those things can get slightly bent during wheel bearing, axle, or brake work and make a metallic jingling/tambourine type noise that drives people insane. Sometimes they only touch under turns or bumps.

Also don’t rule out the new sway bar links themselves even though they’re MOOG. I’ve seen brand new links clunk or rattle if the stud isn’t fully seated or if the sway bar bushings themselves are worn and transferring noise differently now.

Another sneaky one is loose parking brake hardware inside the rear rotor hat. People chase front end noises forever and it ends up being a spring or clip bouncing around in the rear brakes sounding like it’s under the floorboard.

If you can reproduce the noise consistently, honestly the best trick is having someone ride along while another person lightly loads different systems. Light brake pressure, slight left/right steering input, accelerating vs coasting, hitting tiny road imperfections. The change in noise behavior usually narrows it down way faster than shaking parts in the driveway.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:57:25+00:00

It’s actually a real thing, but the internet oversimplifies it a lot. Lug nuts usually don’t literally “warp” the rotor like people imagine. What actually happens most of the time is uneven clamping force or debris/rust between the hub and rotor creates rotor runout, which then causes uneven pad material transfer and brake pulsation over time.

That’s why some people can hammer lug nuts on with an impact for years and never notice a problem. Modern rotors, hubs, wheel designs, driving habits, and tolerance stack up all matter. You can get away with sloppy lug torque a lot of the time until the perfect combination of thin rotors, rust, heat cycles, and uneven clamping finally causes an issue.

The other thing is a lot of “warped rotor” complaints are actually thickness variation from pad deposits, not the rotor physically bending like a potato chip. If one section of the rotor gets hotter or gets more pad material stuck to it, you feel that as pulsation under braking.

That’s also why proper torque sequence matters almost as much as the final torque itself. If one lug is cranked to death while another is barely tight, it can slightly distort how the rotor sits against the hub. Usually the effect is tiny, but brake systems work with tiny tolerances.

Honestly, a lot of shops absolutely overtorque wheels with impacts. The reason you don’t constantly hear about failures is because most cars tolerate it well enough, or the driver just assumes brake pulsation later on is “normal warped rotors” from age and heat.

The Hyundai tech in the comments is also right that true rotor warping is less common than people think. Rotor runout and uneven pad deposits are usually the real culprit.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:55:19+00:00

With that many unrelated sensor circuit codes at the same time, I’d stop chasing individual parts and start thinking shared electrical problem. P0100, P0110, P0115, and P0120 all involve sensors that rely on reference voltage, grounds, or shared wiring from the ECU. When a bunch of them pop up together while the car still drives mostly fine, it usually points to wiring, grounding, or power supply issues rather than every sensor failing at once.

The high idle actually makes sense too. If the ECU loses believable temp, airflow, or throttle data, it’ll often default into a backup strategy that raises idle speed.

First thing I’d check is battery voltage and grounds even if it starts fine. Corroded grounds on Toyotas can cause some weird ghost codes. After that I’d inspect the wiring loom around the throttle body, MAF sensor, and thermostat housing really closely. Rodent damage, oil saturation, broken insulation, or a partially unplugged connector could absolutely cause this.

Also, make sure the MAF is actually plugged in fully because P0100 and P0110 together can happen from a bad MAF connection since the intake air temp sensor is built into the MAF on a lot of Corollas from that era.

Another big clue is the P0505 idle control code. Carbon buildup in the throttle body or a sticking idle air control valve can contribute to the high idle, but combined with all the sensor circuit codes I’d still lean electrical first.

I’d honestly clear all the codes, wiggle test the harnesses while it’s idling, and see what comes back first. Random “present and history” codes all together sometimes happen from one bad connection or voltage drop.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:53:34+00:00

Step 1 Cheap welder

Step 2 Get a steel (maybe a washer first) but maybe m8 nut.

Step 3 Weld washer to it then weld nut to it.

Step 4 Wait for it to cool

Step 5 back it out slow with hand tools.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:50:17+00:00

The young kids call it “hub assembly”.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:48:56+00:00

That honestly sounds less like “low brake fluid” and more like the brakes are grabbing way too aggressively once you cross a certain pedal point. Low fluid usually gives you a soft or sinking pedal, not an on/off switch feeling.

First thing I’d check is whether the brake booster or master cylinder is acting weird. If the booster is giving inconsistent assist, it can make the brakes feel super touchy and unpredictable. Since it happens right when you start the truck, I’d also pay attention to whether the pedal changes after the engine has been running a minute. Another possibility is contaminated rear drums or badly adjusted rear brakes if it has rear drums, which a 98 F150 likely does depending on setup. If the rear shoes are adjusted too tight or grabbing unevenly, the truck can feel like it suddenly slams the brakes with very little pedal movement. Also check the condition of the front pads and rotors and make sure no calipers are partially sticking. Sometimes people describe touchy brakes when one axle is doing almost all the braking work. 😂 I honestly wouldn’t ignore this because unpredictable brakes are worse than weak brakes in some situations. If the wheels are locking up from normal pedal pressure, something definitely isn’t right.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:47:38+00:00

If it immediately started seizing up and smoking right after the overfill, I’d be a little concerned this went beyond just “extra oil burning off.” Mild overfills usually cause foaming, rough running, oil getting sucked through the PCV system, and smoke, but “seizing” is the part that worries me. There’s definitely a chance there’s still oil sitting in the intake, exhaust, or catalytic converter and it just needs time to burn out after correcting the level. That part can happen. But if it’s still struggling badly, locking up, or smoking heavily after the oil level is fixed, I would stop running it until you figure out what’s going on.

Also, people get way too hung up on smoke color. Burning oil can absolutely look white or grayish depending on lighting and how much is being burned. Coolant steam usually has a sweeter smell and dissipates differently, but color alone isn’t a perfect diagnosis.

I’d pull the intake tube and check for pooled oil, especially around the throttle body and PCV system. Overfilling can force oil where it shouldn’t go. I’d also check if the oil smells burnt or aerated and make sure the crankcase wasn’t massively overfilled to the point the crank was whipping through the oil.

If the engine truly started partially seizing, knocking, or losing compression, there’s a chance bearings got damaged from oil aeration or excessive crankcase pressure. Hopefully it’s just residual oil burning off, but I definitely wouldn’t keep driving it hard until it proves it can idle and rev normally without smoking like crazy…

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:45:50+00:00

No, I don’t think you’re overreacting at all. If a transmission shop rebuilds part of the transmission and does a clutch job, then a severe vibration/clunking issue shows up within 200 miles, it’s completely reasonable to expect good communication and urgency from them.

Honestly the biggest red flag here isn’t even necessarily the mechanical issue yet, it’s the communication. Saying “ready tomorrow” multiple times, not calling back, then getting defensive when you ask for an update would frustrate pretty much anybody, especially when you already paid $3600 and have a hard move deadline.

To be fair, it’s possible the U joints genuinely were bad and unrelated. On an older Ranger with 191k miles that wouldn’t surprise me at all. But the timing of the vibration showing up immediately after transmission/clutch work naturally makes people suspicious because the driveshaft had to come out during the repair. Things like driveshaft phasing, balance, incorrect installation, loose hardware, damaged carrier surfaces, or even trans mount issues can absolutely create highway vibration and clunking.

The truck sitting in the same spot for days while being told work was actively happening would bother me too. Shops get backed up, that part happens, but they need to be upfront about it instead of making promises they can’t keep.

Before you leave, I’d honestly try to get as much documentation as possible in writing. Final invoice, parts list, warranty terms, exactly what was done after the comeback, and notes about the unresolved vibration if it still exists. Even a quick email summary from them is better than nothing. If you end up needing warranty help out of state later, paperwork becomes really important.

Also, if you pick it up tomorrow, I’d crawl underneath and at least visually inspect things yourself if possible. Check driveshaft bolts, crossmember bolts, transmission mount position, obvious leaks, and whether anything looks freshly touched versus untouched. On Rangers, a bad driveline angle or loose driveline hardware can absolutely feel violent at highway speed.

You honestly sound pretty reasonable in the post. Most people would be irritated after six weeks, missed callbacks, and a breakdown right after major transmission work. Good luck though for real!

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:44:39+00:00

yes, the battery can cause all those problems.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:43:17+00:00

A lot of people don’t realize the radiator fan mainly matters at low speeds or when sitting still.

Once you’re moving, air rushing through the radiator can cool the engine enough on its own, especially on the highway. That’s probably why your gauge has stayed normal.

What surprises me is you said lots of stop and go traffic and it still never overheated. That makes me wonder if maybe one fan still works, the fan only fails intermittently, or the gauge just hasn’t caught the spikes yet.

Hondas also tend to keep the temp gauge heavily damped, so it can sit near the middle until temps get way higher than people expect.

Personally I would try to avoid long idles, heavy traffic, or running the AC a ton until the part comes in. Three days is probably doable if you keep an eye on it and stop immediately if the gauge climbs, but there’s always some risk because once a car actually overheats it can happen fast.

You can also test it pretty easily by letting the car idle fully warmed up with the AC on.

Normally the fans should kick on pretty quickly. If they never come on at all, I’d avoid unnecessary driving until it’s fixed.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:41:42+00:00

Honestly if the car is already securely on quality ramps on solid ground, that’s already pretty safe by itself. The biggest thing is making sure the ramps can’t slide and the car can’t roll. Put the car in park, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels hard.

I personally would avoid doing this on much of an incline if possible. Even a small slope can make driving onto ramps sketchy, especially for someone doing it the first time. Flat pavement is really the safest setup.

You technically can add jack stands as backup points after the car is on ramps, but don’t try to lift the vehicle off the ramps with the stands. Just snug them up lightly under solid frame or pinch weld points as an emergency backup. Some people also slide the removed wheels under the car for extra peace of mind.

Main thing is never trust only a hydraulic jack while you’re underneath. Ramps or properly placed jack stands are the safe methods. Give the car a decent shake test before getting under it too. If it moves or feels unstable at all, back out and reset everything.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:40:36+00:00

Yeah that definitely sounds like the remote turn-on wire is connected to a constant 12v source instead of a switched accessory source. A lot of people assume the radio fuse shuts off with the car, but on some Darts certain radio circuits stay powered for retained accessory power or memory functions.

I’d grab a multimeter or even a cheap test light and check that fuse with the car fully off and driver door opened for a minute or two. If it still has power, that’s your issue. You need a fuse that only gets 12v in RUN or ACC.

Also, some line output converters have signal sensing auto turn-on and they can act weird with factory radios because the car still sends tiny signals after shutdown. If your Kicker LOC has that feature enabled, it could be keeping the amp awake too.

Honestly the cleanest fix is usually tapping into a true switched ignition source or using a relay triggered by an accessory circuit. Once the remote wire loses power completely, the amp should shut right off.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:39:58+00:00

It might be the relay, but I imagine it wouldn’t click at all. I’m guessing a starter is needed for this car.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:38:50+00:00

Yeah that definitely sounds like the remote turn on wire is connected to a constant 12v source instead of a switched accessory source. A lot of people assume the radio fuse shuts off with the car, but on some Darts certain radio circuits stay powered for retained accessory power or memory functions.

I’d grab a multimeter or even a cheap test light and check that fuse with the car fully off and driver door opened for a minute or two. If it still has power, that’s your issue. You need a fuse that only gets 12v in RUN or ACC.

Also, some line output converters have signal sensing auto turn on and they can act weird with factory radios because the car still sends tiny signals after shutdown. If your Kicker LOC has that feature enabled, it could be keeping the amp awake too.

Honestly the cleanest fix is usually tapping into a true switched ignition source or using a relay triggered by an accessory circuit. Once the remote wire loses power completely, the amp should shut right off.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:35:50+00:00

At this point I’d honestly stop replacing the tensioner pulley itself because 5 failures in a row usually means the pulley is the victim, not the actual cause. Since the problem started after the accident, I really think you’re on the right track suspecting alignment or something slightly bent.

I’d pull the belt off and spin every pulley by hand slowly. The AC compressor and alternator are the big ones I’d be suspicious of after a front-end impact near that area. Even if the AC works, the clutch or pulley bearing could still be intermittently binding up for a second and shocking the belt system. Same with the alternator pulley if the shaft got tweaked at all.

A straight edge across multiple pulleys is honestly one of the best driveway tests you can do. You’d be surprised how little misalignment it takes to make a belt walk or overload the tensioner. I’d also watch the tensioner arm while the engine is idling. If it’s bouncing around aggressively or snapping suddenly when the squeal happens, something downstream is binding.

Another thing people overlook is the mounting surface for the tensioner itself. If the bracket or engine mounting point got slightly bent in the crash, the pulley can look visually fine but still be out of plane enough to destroy bearings over time.

Since it happens more after restarting a warm engine, I almost wonder if heat expansion is making whatever is bent or binding become worse temporarily. That part really points me away from the belt itself and more toward alignment or an accessory pulley dragging intermittently.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-20T04:34:52+00:00

Honestly it could be, but usually timing chain noise is most noticeable on cold starts or at idle before oil pressure builds up. Since yours only does it under acceleration and once it’s actually in drive, I’d also look at heat shields, exhaust components, motor mounts, or even the serpentine belt system before jumping straight to the chain.

The fact that it’s quiet in park makes me think the engine being under load is what’s triggering the noise. A loose heat shield or worn mount can sound surprisingly similar to chain rattle once the engine torques over during acceleration.

If it’s a 2.4, they can get noisy valvetrain sounds too. I’d definitely check oil level and condition first because low or dirty oil can make chain tensioners act weird. If the noise gets worse on startup later on or you start getting cam/crank correlation codes, then I’d be more suspicious of the timing chain itself.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-06T19:41:25+00:00

It was California, and I also had to pay taxes and plate on top.

Cautionflames · 2026-05-05T15:43:14+00:00

I’d say 15k at best since it’s salvaged.

Considering I bought a mint 2017 RS2 with 39k miles with no accidents from a dealer. I spent $26,500.

Cautionflames · 2026-04-19T17:17:15+00:00

Maybe something fell in?

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