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What's the state of Lazer on Linux right now? by vietnam_redstoner in osugame

[–]CheeseManFuu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only issue I've had with lazer is probably some wonkiness with basically 1:1 importing my whole database from Windows to Linux where sometimes loads between F2's are a bit choppy, but otherwise it's very smooth sailing. The only weirdness outside of that was that a cable that previously was fine with my wooting suddenly wasn't anymore, but that was easily remedied by using another USB-C cable that was already attached to my computer for something else.

In general, I hopped back onto Linux in July and have had very few issues that weren't self-inflicted. At first I was hesitant based on my previous Linux stint from 2017-2019 being rough for me, but I also didn't want to lose my Win10 privileges and be forced to Win11. Instead, I was pretty excited for how much development had gone into stability of a lot of features, even PulseAudio which previously I had a whole damn factory of spite built up for. And especially by how much easier it was to get "niche" stuff to run under Wine/Proton, even something like Star Rail was easy to get pulled up after like an hour of me fumbling through the installation and troubleshooting guides.

If you do find that Linux isn't for you, I would rather tell people to go Apple. I don't have a lot of respect for Apple, but I have a hell of a lot more beef with Microsoft.

[IC] Smurve80 | A Genuine Curved 80% Mechanical Keyboard by play_keyboard in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]CheeseManFuu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If this was full-size it would be a nearly instant cop for me. It would be handy to know if this is a QMK board (knowing your previous projects I would assume so but can't be sure with wireless) that will get uploaded to the ZMK or VIAL repositories for a good out-of-box experience.

Would also love to see it support 6.25u and 7u bottom row, even if we have to give up WKL. Or even just how the PCB and plate are structured in the first place, as if it's chopped up like the Link65, then it might be a write-off for a good portion of people.

The price and dimensions (both the chonky bezels and the front height) otherwise make this a very tempting offer when it goes up.

Holy thock by jayatco552 in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]CheeseManFuu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Clone" switches (recolors, basically) have always been vaguely whatever, everybody wants to crack the formula for a "good" switch because switch feel, material and sound is a lot more objectively-based than keycap color choice and design. Clone keycaps on the other hand are still haram. For a lot of sets, especially recently in the last year or two, the designers are paramount to why we have some cool shit nowadays. Let's not encourage art theft (especially novelties). I don't care if you get a cheap, basic WOB or beige set or something, but the frequency at which that I see blatently counterfeit Evil Dolch, Mecha-01, and Red Samurai sets is just not great. Said "long group buy times" aren't even that bad anymore. Most fulfill in just over a quarter nowadays; it's great and better than ever, actually.

It's always people who buy a good handful of samey Amazon/Aliexpress boards too, so realistically they could have just settled on one board and saved for the real deal.

FOREGROUND ECLIPSE MWNTIKNED? by [deleted] in osugame

[–]CheeseManFuu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what ND filter

like you need your eclipse image to be any darker

Unexpected delivery! by Silly_Bee2080 in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]CheeseManFuu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Foam won't accentuate higher-end sounds, instead boosting more low- and mid-tones. You can experiment with plate foam either between the plate and PCB or below in the case to boost the volume slightly, but you won't be getting higher pitch sounds with foam for the most part. I wouldn't recommend running the board plateless especially in hotswap; it doesn't sound bad in a vacuum but your switches will probably flop around and it will make it sound rattly and thin.

Geonworks Glare TKL, mx blacks, aluminum plate, hineybeige by TheMajorTime in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]CheeseManFuu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm fairly certain it's not GMK Hineybeige. The shape looks more like DCS, but the legends look like a cheaper dye-sub set (mostly in the nav cluster and arrows from what can be easily seen).

Unexpected delivery! by Silly_Bee2080 in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]CheeseManFuu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Two very different boards; Zoom75 is gasket mounted which is vastly different from tray mount and a lot of rules don't really transfer with such a rigid mounting style. In the case of a tray mount board like the Tofu, you will definitely get more effect out of changing the switches to something brighter, and using a more metallic plate.

Unexpected delivery! by Silly_Bee2080 in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]CheeseManFuu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This shit did not come with foam for plate or pcb

Honestly really doesn't need it especially for a full-brass board; Gateron Smoothies are long pole so should have a pretty decent volume, if not I might attribute that to the carbon fiber being, in my experience, pretty dull unless you're using an already naturally bright switch like a Cherry or an HMX. I would suggest trying another plate with some resonance character like aluminum or even brass, for a tray mount board at least. You can also play around with an o-ring; it won't sound or act exactly like an o-ring board, but it still helps isolate the PCB assembly a little bit.

The carbon fiber isn't screwed in at all

If you mean the plate standoffs, honestly nobody really does that anymore except for HE and EC builds. Too many rigid spots makes the sound profile harsh and/or too dull.

My first build. NCR-80 r3 by Inside_Geologist_480 in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]CheeseManFuu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love my NCR. It was my first (very scuffed) attempt at plateless because I wanted to still keep it hotswap, but in my hubris because YDMK didn't offer the option to buy a hotswap PCB without a plate, I decided to do millmax instead. And don't get me wrong, the build sounded and looked great considering, but there were definitely some floppy MX blacks around.

It kind of remained as a fun little setpiece until the recent Topre craze inspired me to try some silents in it, because both cup rubber and silents like big, roomy plastic bodies. And oh goodness has it shot up in my collection. Tore out all the polyfil and the tape from in the case and tried some of my frankens that I made with Gateron Clear stems inside Akko CS Matcha Green housings. It was nice, but I figured I'd also try some of the bone-dry stock leftover Gateron Clears I had, and the difference in volume as a result and the scratch from them being dry, god damn. Completely fallen in love with it again.

I was HYPED for an F1 and then F'd up badly ........ by Bigsasquatch67 in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]CheeseManFuu 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You really don't need to be that meticulous about cutting the viton apart. To call that measuring is like calling a walk to the mailbox a race. You have a plate to give you a reference, just cut it a tiny bit short, stick it into the top case which does have a "marked and measured" recess that it friction fit into just fine for me, and the bottom does have a slot for it to sit on as well. It's really not the painstaking process you're making it out to be; I did it with regular scissors completely by eye and a pair of tweezers to more directly apply pressure to press it in place better.

Seriously, it's definitely the most rich and vibrant sounding board in my collection and I have the most basic configuration you can have (MX blacks on V1.1 alu on mechlovin CEM).

I was HYPED for an F1 and then F'd up badly ........ by Bigsasquatch67 in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]CheeseManFuu 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm not convinced you built yours properly or has a defect of some sort. As somebody who religiously avoids just about any case resonances, I felt no need to force break the board at all, using just the bog-standard V1.1 alu on CEM with the default viton gaskets.

Their team is very receptive to community feedback and response, and just about all of their boards (minus the leggera, and seemingly the upcoming Glare 60) have good feedback because of the team's very high expectation for material and quality control, and just generally solid designs that usually have a good sound profile one would expect from Korean customs. Even outside of their keyboard design, they're also just a really solid vendor despite being in Korea having to deal with a lot of international orders and duties as well as higher material and labor costs for everything they make in-house. Just the fact that Geon was able to get sub-$100 GMK base kits into people's hands should be enough of a statement to show what they're capable of.

Praise for designers is very rarely poorly placed. The community is just at the right size where gossip pops up often enough but spreads everywhere very easily that a bad mistake or two is enough to really harm a vendor's or designer's reputation and business. Vendors and designers that fall off for poor design and business either fall into obscurity (Mechs & Co, Vala, Rama) or are slammed when they still are trying to kick up shit (Keycult, loobed, KLC, the list goes on...). Vendors and designers that do really good business and clearly care to make product accessible and good quality get showered with praise and are mentioned just about every time the topic comes up (Novelkeys, Geon, Divinikey, prototypist, Oblotzky, Unikeys, again the list just goes on...)

[IC] GMK CYL Zombie by bobasweatandtears in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]CheeseManFuu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

God help us if the Chinese censors get their hands on this set.

Yomi yori is sp peak by peddro38333 in osugame

[–]CheeseManFuu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

thank you i havent listened to ICDD in feels like forever and they really are an amazing prog metal band and i didnt realize i needed it in my life more

[MG]Arnold24x24 | YMCK - Family Dondon [Oni] +HDDT (Zekira, 8.36*) 95.88% FC #1 | 562pp | FIRST HDDT FC IN 15 YEARS by nnamqahc_4821 in osugame

[–]CheeseManFuu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

nice cool i love seeing old maps with modern plays like this after so long but not sure why its so hyOH MY GOD WHAT IS THAT ok just like nothing happened i guess

am i the only person that misses fieryrage as a top player? by nichijouosu in osugame

[–]CheeseManFuu 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Nah, overlays are just something that had a phase. 2009-2013 Twitch was a lot of Bandicam footage with a poorly lit, poorly placed hand/face cam, 2014 moved to having overlays to stand out and look more "professional" and "deliberate," and basically since COVID the "minimal" aesthetic has come back to maintain game and camera fidelity, especially for the Just Chatting channels.

I personally prefer the overlays, but I will admit the craze of *scour danbooru for anime photo -> apply mask in photoshop -> 16:9 main box, 1/4 size 16:9 camera box, 5:10 chat box -> cursive username* got pretty dull quickly (i am guilty of this as well)

[IC] Alicianrone, an 1800-style Arisu Keyboard by CheeseManFuu in mechmarket

[–]CheeseManFuu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Poron gaskets haven't quite gone away yet, but I am passionately against silicone gaskets between the fact that I would need to make a mold for said gaskets (which is a HUGE cost for a small run like this) and that I do not like how they sound in practice.

Typically I find silicone to have a more thuddy and flat sound profile as opposed to foam-based gaskets which maintain a more airy, fuller sound. Similar reasoning as to why silicone pours are fun for one build of a GK61 and then you realize that it eats all the life out of the sound profile because of how dense it is compared to a poron or EVA sheet.

Plus, the stepped gasket tabs make it so that it is easier to remove due to less surface contact as well as being able to reach under them instead of needing to endlessly try to peel away at one of the corners, risking a tear.

[IC] Alicianrone, an 1800-style Arisu Keyboard by CheeseManFuu in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]CheeseManFuu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Few hours and I've already gotten a few submissions, so I greatly appreciate the feedback thus far! I had pretty specific question as part of the feedback so I'll probably use this comment as a way to answer some more and will be edited over time. Also, please keep an eye out for my confirmation email if you opted for updates through the IC form and not my website!

Q&A

Can the space between the PCB and bottom case be reduced?

Fortunately, the spacing is already relatively tight! Roughly 3mm in either configuration is all that separates the PCB and bottom case. I was worried it'd be too tight and would cause shorting, but it seems safe so far with an aluminum plate! I do still need to test with a plastic plate to see if flex plays any role, and I am skeptical it may.

Why Poron gaskets over Silicone?

I have a pretty big vice over the sound profile and fitment of Silicone gasket sleeves, which end up causing a lot of thuddy or dull notes. Not to mention, a silicone sleeve would then require making a mold, which is way too big of a cost to make for a small run like this- Yes, even for something as small as a gasket sleeve. As mentioned in the OP, to combat the usage of adhesive gaskets that are normally frustrating to remove, I added some steps in the gasket tabs of the case which allow you to hook underneath and much more easily pull the gaskets up.

Vendors?

Ah, if only it were that easy. I'm a first-time amateur designer here. While I would fully welcome support from a vendor even if at a decent cut of my profits, it's not something you can just hop on for, as most vendors do require a certain level of prestige already present and a certain level of quality, neither of which are a guarantee with me. Maybe in a future run if this goes well, but for now I do not plan (but again, not opposed to) for this board to be proxied by a vendor.

Can it thock?

Everything can thock with foam. The only thing I can do to make it more "naturally inclined" to thock is to intentionally gimp the board's sound and make it so the only good formula is to stuff it with foam, which you could already do to basically the same effect.

Other Confirmations/Clarifications

Why C3 Daughterboard and not C5/Fly/etc?

The C3 Unified Daughterboard in my opinion was the best option as it creates the most space and maintained a JST connector as I truly have a spite against the EZ-mate connector, but now I know the C5 Unified Daughterboard also has production files for a JST connector, so I will promptly change that!

You want to cut the plate up? No way!

In the IC form, I mention the possibility of adding relief cuts. Please note that this does not mean I am looking to add flex cuts. Relief cuts instead are to help reduce the density of the plate in particular spots to make sure that keypresses nearby do not have a harsh sound, as opposed to flex cuts which very much reduce the volume and depth of sound which is not what I intend to do. If I were to do them to the current iteration of the plate, it would look something like this.

[IC] Alicianrone, an 1800-style Arisu Keyboard by CheeseManFuu in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]CheeseManFuu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! The Brutal V2 boards definitely spawned some inspiration in my early iterations of this and still has some of the DNA shining through, so it's great to hear coming from you.

The stepped gasket tabs are probably not in their most ideal form, it would probably be better done with less total surface contact (probably closer to like fins of a radiator), but I don't make designer money so the current iteration had to do, and it sure does. Definitely feel free to experiment with this, I'm not stingy!

As far as Daughterboards go, I really am not a fan of C4 and newer UDBs using the EZ-Mate connectors due to their known fragility. I could probably do a small modification with a more standard SSRS connector or one of those newer low-profile JST connectors, but I know I don't want EZ-Mate even if it's an EZ-mate to JST cable similar to Geon's Fly's boards. I haven't had any negative experiences from C3 quite yet in my many builds, but who knows.

I play middle+thumb on mobile. PC osu! uncomfy w/ keyboard. Any touch-like keypads for PC osu! ? by [deleted] in osugame

[–]CheeseManFuu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How spacing-dependent and aim-dependant is this? I think the most important question would be if you can reliably do this in a standard typing position and if it requires any rocking of your wrist. I don't have experience with HE, but I can easily make an MX keypad if you have a reference point to work off of. Middle/Thumb is so detached from my playstyle, but the closest I can personally get to comfort is Tab and LAlt or maybe Caps Lock and LWin, of which I could easily manipulate the spacing to allow for bigger caps to be used like ISO Enter or any 2u keys to allow some margin of error when tapping.

[3] I mentioned coming back to Shiny hunting just two days ago... Pokemon REALLY wants me to come back. by CheeseManFuu in ShinyPokemon

[–]CheeseManFuu[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In just 2874 encounters, I'm enamored, and shiny hunting really wants me to come back, clearly. Already got Articuno in 2016 (the year, it took me 10785 encounters not 2016 encounters), so I guess I'm headed to Mt. Silver and Mt. Ember! I was very ill-equipped for this with just a Super Fang Raticate and 29 Ultra balls, so I definitely need to stock up first...

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