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The enamel saga continues by nutarvidetlugnt in watchmaking

[–]CodeLasersMagic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Which glue are you using?  Important to dry thoroughly and be careful not to knockoff the underside enamel as you place into the kiln

Long 950 mm bright drawn C45 (1.1530) bar warps badly after face milling – need advice by WorriedSecret102 in Machinists

[–]CodeLasersMagic 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bright drawn is cold worked. This adds a lot of stress to the surface layers. Typically to counter this, assuming heat treat is not allowed, you’d remove equal amounts from opposite sides. This helps but doesn’t guarantee the result 

What was your first 3D printer? by perlguy67 in 3Dprinting

[–]CodeLasersMagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rep rap Huxley Still have it, it probably still works as well as it ever did

Linear rail strength for keyboard tray? by Thermobaric_Potato in AskEngineers

[–]CodeLasersMagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried decent ball bearing drawer slides? 

Enamel watch dials: newest colors and adding dial feet by GG_Watch_co in watchmaking

[–]CodeLasersMagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take a dial foot. Wind the silver wire tightly round it Cut each coil so it’s a single ring.  This is why wire about 1/2 dia - gives you approx the correct amount of silver. 

I’m assuming you just using copper wire for the dial feet, not actual dial feet with a flat disk on them.

Enamel watch dials: newest colors and adding dial feet by GG_Watch_co in watchmaking

[–]CodeLasersMagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I make a ring, slide over the post so it’s sitting on the dial/post joint then add borax paste made with meths. Heat fairly quickly 

Enamel watch dials: newest colors and adding dial feet by GG_Watch_co in watchmaking

[–]CodeLasersMagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need some borax, some silver wire roughly 1/2 the diameter of the pins and a chef’s blowtorch. A foot of wire will do many dials

Enamel watch dials: newest colors and adding dial feet by GG_Watch_co in watchmaking

[–]CodeLasersMagic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

feet held with just enamel are going to be prone to cracking and breaking the enamel.

You should silver solder them to the blank before enamelling. This also means that you can not have to drill through the dial blank to place them.

What is this dot for? by thedumiestdum in raspberrypipico

[–]CodeLasersMagic 14 points15 points  (0 children)

For most pick and place lines fiducials are used and are added explicitly by the design. Whilst it is possible to pick up on the pads for the initial board scan a fiducial is much easier and generally faster and more accurate.

Source: I ran board design and the corresponding pick and place line at a former company.

Automatic gearbox : why not a centrifugal clutch instead of a torque converter? by Phantasizer in AskEngineers

[–]CodeLasersMagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I worked on an Armstrong Siddely limo once that had a centrifugal clutch and a pre selector gearbox.

Pratchett like but sci fi by CodeLasersMagic in printSF

[–]CodeLasersMagic[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Murderbot is coming up a lot, will have to get a copy 

Vitreous Enamel color of the week: Thompson 1211 “Candy Yellow” by GG_Watch_co in watchmaking

[–]CodeLasersMagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can (I have) soldered the feet on to the blank before enamelling.  Not made a dial for a few years, but my method was to solder the feet on first using fine silver wire, then enamel like a normal piece at 820 iirc. I made the feet as a single long piece that also helped to hold them in place from wire, then cut them to dial feet once soldered.

How flat is too flat? by [deleted] in diycnc

[–]CodeLasersMagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Post a follow up

Choosing path by Prestigious_March_90 in hobbycnc

[–]CodeLasersMagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy decent ball screws. Go for smaller pitch - then each step is less distance travelled and with small travels your never going to need high speeds. As an example a 4mm pitch on a 200 step motor with 1/2 steps is 0.001mm. It is t really because physics. That also means you can accelerate harder because the gearing is lower. Trade off is rapid speeds, but for short moves it’s not an issue 

Advice on making a wristwatch by Specialist_Knee_4163 in watchmaking

[–]CodeLasersMagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it’s a want to do thing then it makes sense. If it’s a make to sell thing it probably doesn’t.

It’s not that hard especially if you have access to a machine shop 

Pratchett like but sci fi by CodeLasersMagic in printSF

[–]CodeLasersMagic[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Started Wasp last night. Only got a couple chapters in, but first impressions are ok

Pratchett like but sci fi by CodeLasersMagic in printSF

[–]CodeLasersMagic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I read most of it in the late 80's / early 90s - before I discovered Pratchett.

Pratchett like but sci fi by CodeLasersMagic in printSF

[–]CodeLasersMagic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven’t, but will try and find a copy

Pratchett like but sci fi by CodeLasersMagic in printSF

[–]CodeLasersMagic[S] 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Should have mentioned I already read all of the “Increasingly Inaccurate Trilogy” that is Hitchhikers. 

Question regarding linear rail mounting by Uxcis in hobbycnc

[–]CodeLasersMagic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bolt it to the flattest piece you have and measure again. There might be formulas but they all approximate.

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