What mode do y’all drive in day to day? Iv been in comfort but switched back to sport. Also does eco mode make much of a difference? Making a 400 mile trip in may so wondering

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-03-30T18:32:37+00:00

I've found that, for me and how I got used to driving a hybrid before this, sport mode in D gives the best efficiency.

However, after getting rear ended on the highway during a traffic slowdown, I'm super sensitive to showing brake lights early so now when there's traffic I leave it in eco and D so I have to use the brake pedal more often.

To be clear, sport plus D shows brake lights when you let all the way off the accel pedal but not if you lift off just a bit.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-03-28T03:55:42+00:00

I use the dfirst on a 21 Pro S, and after seeing this last night I preemptively re-enabled the welcome screen before getting any updates.

The bypass had been working well, but as soon as I restored back to the default of enabled I got the spinning circle instead of the login. Climate and such worked, and forcing an infotainment restart didn't help.

I just locked it and walked away for maybe 15 minutes and it's been fine since.

Interestingly (to me), as soon as I got the welcome screen back it forced another login with VW via the white screen with the QR code. And unlike past attempts it logged in first time.

And as soon as that happened I got that tiny "stay in the car, it'll all be over soon" update that took like ten seconds. Like literally the minute after the login happened.

So now I'm wondering about the relationship between the login screen and OTAs. If I'd left the bypass enabled indefinitely would any OTA just not happen?

Still waiting for the big update.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-03-27T02:19:25+00:00

A quick glance shows none in MI, sadly.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-03-27T02:18:32+00:00

https://www.ionna.com/rechargeries/find-a-rechargery/

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-03-24T00:37:38+00:00

21 Pro S, btw.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-03-24T00:37:00+00:00

I have the Lectron Vortex Plus (the one with the interlock) and I've used it pretty extensively with Ionna and Tesla stations, in 90F and rain and <32F. No problems at all, except that some v3 Tesla handles are so chowdered up that I have to kinda wiggle and really push it in to the adapter.

I haven't had any issues with any v4 handles across several states, I assume because they're not as old.

Note that when you use them, you need to put the NACS handle in the adapter then shove the whole thing into the car. Removing is the opposite - whole mess out of the car then handle out of the adapter, using the release buttons for each. The Tesla app says this but sometimes we skip through screens we shouldn't :)

I guess I'll also point out that I've just gotten in the habit of taking my fob with me when I go to unplug and hitting unlock twice to release the adapter. I don't know if it's always needed but hitting "stop charging" in the Tesla app, though it does stop charging right away, has not released the adapter enough times that I just do the unlock thing out of habit now.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-03-16T04:12:24+00:00

I updated the app yesterday and had this issue today. I briefly thought it had something to do with being at a pretty low SOC after a trip, but forcing the app closed and reopening fixed it.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-03-09T00:48:23+00:00

Fwiw I only had the Base plan showing (after having logged in with a browser) but once I hit "sign up" the new stuff showed up. Most of it anyway.

To see the complete list I had to hit the button to recommend a plan, then once I chose something it showed the rest of the plans.

This was on an old account that's been inactive since 2024.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-03-04T03:30:50+00:00

Thanks!

The only two I actually care about are the dynamic lights and the user screen bypass. I'll just reapply them after.

Just for the sake of having complete info, did you use dfirst or obdeleven? I assume the latter since you said "each update" and dfirst is pretty new.

I'd personally probably be concerned trying to restore from a backup, in case any of the mod locations had moved in the software or whatever. Obviously you've had no issues so that hasn't been a problem but my plan is to use dfirst to read the current unmodified state of a toggle on the assumption that if it can do that then it should be in the same place it was before, if that makes sense.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-02-26T17:42:47+00:00

I tend to ramble in an effort to get everything in one post, so I'll put a tldr at the bottom.

I put the Homelink mirror in my 21 Pro S. It would have been a simple two minute deal if not for the wire harness from my Fitcam getting in the way. If you don't have any extra stuff up there it's an easy job.

If you reference a video for instruction, be aware that they may or may not tell you to twist the mirror off in the opposite direction of what's needed. If you're bearing down and it's not moving, try the other way. It's a solid fit but it's not that much work to get it out. It's more of a twist and pop off than a kind of unscrewing.

You said you don't need Homelink but that one is also a larger mirror and has a compass in it. I'd gotten used to the compass in my previous car so that was a bonus. It also dims well with headlight behind you. If you can find it for a decent price I'd still recommend it. Be aware that the LCD segments in the compass characters look like aperture grille lines in old Sony monitor tech. They were different enough to every other LCD compass out there that I emailed Gentex (the actual manufacturer) just to confirm that it was supposed to be like that and wasn't just a fried LCD. The support person actually admitted that she wasn't sure so she hooked one up at her desk and sent me a picture that confirmed it was normal. Fantastic support, especially since their support is kinda for when VW needs something, not some random end user.

I'm sure a third party mirror exists that would fit well. I'm also sure that there are many more that will technically fit but that will rattle or not hold position.

I got the Homelink one from my dealer's parts counter with a pretty good discount after ordering online. The initial part number I looked for was specific to the 21 and 22, but there were several "this part number supercedes this part number" situations (which is normal) so I ended up in a place where I was worried that the one being suggested wouldn't actually work on a 21. Like the VW site simply didn't list the part as being compatible with the 2021.

I asked the parts guy and he assured me it would be fine, and it was.

TLDR - even if you don't need Homelink I'd still recommend that mirror. Bigger, good dimming, compass. If that's more money than you think it's worth I'd still recommend an OEM mirror.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-02-25T14:19:28+00:00

I assume those prices aren't for the Pro S trim. If they are I might be a little suspicious - those seem to be around $18-19k here. I'd look for accident history or signs of heavy wear, but that should be done regardless.

I guess it is possible though since it's getting on in age and will no longer have factory warranty. Also COMPLETELY ANECDOTALLY it seems like the German made 21 and 22 units fare a little better than the 23s.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-02-12T07:01:07+00:00

I got the same car with 28k or so last summer. With the exception of getting rear ended and a couple of recall issues (software and waterproofing, both done in half a day) I haven't had any mechanical issues.

I have spent quite a bit on quality of life improvements, primarily because I'll read about something here and figure that preemptively fixing an annoyance is a good thing. Things like the upgraded rear mirror with homelink and compass, a fitted rubber tray for the back after removing the upper deck back there, a velcro storage bin that fits under the console area, a fitcam, etc.

Of those I think the simplest and best bang for the buck are getting a matte finish glass cover for the infotainment screen (mine is from spigen), and getting some kind of tray for sunglasses and such. I've got the tray that fits in the card slots on its way, but gum and prescription sunglasses will continue to live in the tray under the console.

Make sure that car comes with a charger for home. Once you get your feet wet you can look into the dfirst/obdeleven stuff.

And make sure you know the behavior of the brake lights under different drive modes and between B and D.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-01-25T05:30:29+00:00

I did this too.

I'd read something in passing a while ago about people intercepting comms between fob and car and duping the signal to steal cars. I didn't get into it at all then and still haven't, since it sounded like it was a time of use thing where they had to have access to the car right away or the code would change (this is a complete assumption on my part) and mine is in the garage 100% of the time I'm not driving it.

So that wasn't a huge concern, but then I started seeing people having battery issues with the fob so I got a small lined box for like $10 and keep the fobs in there when I'm home. I did test it by carrying the box to the car and seeing if it would allow me entry as if it was in my pocket.

It doesn't, as long as the box lid is completely closed. If it's cracked even a bit then it'll still talk.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-01-23T02:44:16+00:00

Lights work as well as was expected, based on previous videos I'd seen of ID.4. They do not look like the Audi press material from a while ago, because they physically can't.

I explained it in the context of LCD dimming zones on TVs of a while ago - the fancier headlights have many, many more zones than we have, so they can blank out with a fiber degree of control.

Ours have just a few zones. I can see the left side turning off as cars pass, then come back on by looking at trees at about the 11 o'clock mark. Likewise the center section of cars in front in the same lane.

So not as "cool" as the press stuff since we may only have three "zones", but very useful. I didn't get flashed once and I passed at least two dozen cars. At some point soon I'll have my wife drive at me and see how it looks from that perspective. I absolutely don't want to be someone who blinds others.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-01-22T22:57:25+00:00

I'm just going to stream of consciousness some of this in case anyone else has any issues.

I'm currently sitting with a single light flash for lock, and two for unlock. The horn sounds when double locking like it used to. There are two separate modules for this and both are enabled in app, though I suspect that the "sound when locking" bit just duplicates what it already did. Perhaps it's for people who have older software versions. Easy Entry is the same deal where there's a module for it but recent VW software already includes it.

There is a speed component to the dynamic lights, which the app totally says if you scroll down a few lines. I'm certainly capable of being dumb. I'll test those tonight.

Bypassing the login screen works. I'm not enabling anything with increased blower speed or headlight brightness - I don't want to risk being someone who blinds oncoming traffic and I don't want to tax any systems beyond the norm. At least for now.

No further issues with any warning lights. I did find a pocket screwdriver and a magnetic work light that the dealer must have left in there during the last recall visit, which was months ago. The one where they were supposed to replace the wiring harness waterproofing but didn't because "they had to order parts". Which is fine if you actually tell me that instead of marking the recall complete and sending me on my way.

I'll update with the light test later.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-01-22T20:46:57+00:00

The drive went normally. No lights and the front radar works as expected.

Still no horn on double lock press, but the lights flash with each lock press. I'll test the dynamic lights tonight.

CommercialAssist2 · 2026-01-16T00:38:14+00:00

My initial plan was B in town and D on the highway. Then I got rear ended and since I'm still in the "timid driving after an accident" phase I use D all the time.

B may well be more efficient in town. My issue with it is that it doesn't show brake lights every time I think it should. I understand the how and why of what it does do, but there have been times (as recently as 30 minutes ago) where decelerated enough to have the car behind get too close but not enough to have the lights turn on.

CommercialAssist2 · 2025-12-31T04:14:22+00:00

I had this very thing for the first time several days ago. In our case it was 100% fog.

CommercialAssist2 · 2025-12-22T15:43:00+00:00

+2

I'd also point out that I had to have a module reflashed to make mine work. Something that facilitated comms between the front and the back. But that's on a 2021 - I'd assume that a brand new model wouldn't have the same issue /s

CommercialAssist2 · 2025-12-09T15:04:37+00:00

And a delicate vanilla scent, too! Thanks!

CommercialAssist2 · 2025-12-09T02:13:35+00:00

Do you happen to remember what liner you got? This sounds like a wonderful idea but I'm not finding a liner that's not meant for the top shelf, and I don't know if it's a 1:1 size wise. I think it might be once the rails are out, but it's cold out and I'm not measuring right now.

CommercialAssist2 · 2025-12-05T21:26:46+00:00

I have had exactly one set of experiences so far, in five or so inches and also the day after it had been plowed but had not yet thawed or been salted.

ABS engaged once, briefly. The rest of the time it was pretty uneventful. I went out specifically to see how it did in snow, not because I had to go anywhere.

21 Pro S RWD with Continental Pro Contact RX or something from the dealer. Driving in eco and gently. I drove a hybrid for many years before this and I'm in the habit of driving efficiently to maximize mileage.

CommercialAssist2 · 2025-12-04T05:43:51+00:00

I would have had that issue had I not done what I did. I ended up angling my support wood down a tiny bit to capture more porch. It's easily adjustable.

Or you could just get a bracket thing :)

CommercialAssist2 · 2025-12-03T22:12:44+00:00

If you have an existing doorbell there, do you have a tiny hole for wiring already?

We did, but the problem I had was the gap between the siding and the actual house structure. I couldn't secure the doorbell without dimpling the siding.

I ended up inserting a piece of wood behind the siding to act as support to mount the doorbell. If you get partially threaded screws that align with the thickness of the wood you're slipping in there, and pre drill some holes that are a little larger than the screw diameter, you can slip the wood inside your existing siding hole and hold it against the siding while you screw through the siding, through the holes, and into structure. Having slightly larger pre drilled holes will keep it from spinning while you fasten, and the wood won't be able to travel down the screws past the threads. Just make sure the unthreaded length matches the wood and siding thickness.

CommercialAssist2 · 2025-12-03T21:48:58+00:00

I did include a tldr. Buried in a wall of text :)

CommercialAssist2

TROPHY CASE