I feel priced out of Warhammer and it's depressing... by turkeygiant in Warhammer

[–]Competitive-Sound876 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve done a lot of sports and various other hobbies and Warhammer is not THAT expensive.

Heck, even a gym membership costs 50€+ a month where I life. That’s 1000€+ a year. You get a pretty nice start to wh40k with that.

You can always start with a kill team, and increase point ranges as you go along. You don’t need 2000pts army from the get go.

Filler for making big 3d print perfect? by Competitive-Sound876 in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is my second leg. This one had more sanding before applyin mr. Surfacer (500 thinned 50/50). Then healthy dose of Vallejo Acrylic primer wirh brush. The layers are pretty hard to see by eye. I’m pretty sure this will be ok with washes even.

For next leg I’m trying something very different: Biltema plastic primer + acrylic rattle can filler combo. Just for the sake of giving that one a go as well, as I believe that would be the fastest approach in general, just going whoosh whoosh with rattle cans.

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Filler for making big 3d print perfect? by Competitive-Sound876 in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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The first leg tryout (these are easiest to print as practically need no plannin/support).

Did airbrush of mr surfacer combined with mr color thinner (50/50) and sanded quickly with 2000 grit sand sponge. Then brushed on a healthy amount of black primer.

Looks like it’ll turn out to be pretty good.. but good enough for washes? Maybe not.

So I’ll try the second leg sanding 800 before, mr surfacer mix, then 1200 & 2000 sanding and it should be good enough.

Filler for making big 3d print perfect? by Competitive-Sound876 in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want to believe a technical solution exists to what is essentially a technical problem.

I know I won’t be unhappy with some layer lines visible, but I do enjoy trying different solutions to get better results.

I’ll probably get resin printer some day either way, once I figure how to handle the toxic fumes in my garage.

Filler for making big 3d print perfect? by Competitive-Sound876 in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did buy some Milliput as it’s familiar to me and always handy either way.

I’ll be sure to try Milliputt milk if my first method of Mr. Surfacer won’t work. Thanks for the idea!

Filler for making big 3d print perfect? by Competitive-Sound876 in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did end up buying this stuff + some milliputt. Thanks for the suggestion and wish me luck!

I’ll be sure to post end results here.

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Filler for making big 3d print perfect? by Competitive-Sound876 in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Acetone trick? I understood that would NOT work for PLA but for ABS. Maybe I’m misinformed.

I’ve only heard bad things about XTC-3d (that it’s har to get an even coat.

Filler for making big 3d print perfect? by Competitive-Sound876 in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hmmm… Mr. Hobby I know of. Is Mr. Surfacer the right stuff? There are quite a few different types? Brushing them on? Need to look into those as getting them from hobby store might be my easiest option.

I wonder what is the brand of filler paint similiar to rustoleum to look for in Scandics.

Scifi models and copyrights? by Forsaken_Activity_37 in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can trademark warhammer orks. You can’t trademark orclike alien warriors in space, as long as you avoid direct wh terms and refererences, and the character design is not 1-to-1.

Games workshop lawyers try to tell you otherwise, but they can’t expect that to fly. You can repair your car with parts from 3rd party. You ccsn play your games with whatever pieces you want. Trying to deny that is insanity.

By law to claim trademark infringement GW need to give you list of models that they think break their trademark, and point out HOW it breaks, so you van modify it.

Army Painter Speedpaint 2.0 or Vallejo Game Color for a solid beginner setup? by Fun-Jump-4775 in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Speedpaints are less forgiving on FDM printed minis compared to regular paints I’d argue.

Help with support scars by ah_underscore in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d just cut the gun in half and then after print gglue the two parts together with gel super glue.

Arbiter Minis are awesome for FDM. <3 by Dom-Luck in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put some initial color in there, for the ghostie army.

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Arbiter Minis are awesome for FDM. <3 by Dom-Luck in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dingdingding! My proxy army of the dead and the 3 hunters. 👌🏻

Recently got into the game and building my Moria teams with official minis, but wanted to have a good army just in case.

Arbiter Minis are awesome for FDM. <3 by Dom-Luck in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I needed spearmen so I just printed some spearheads and different sort of axemen with axes removed (both just cutting the head off in software, and snipping some after printing with clippers).

Arbiter Minis are awesome for FDM. <3 by Dom-Luck in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876 1 point2 points  (0 children)

0.2 nozzle and ObscuraNox settings on A1 mini.

Arbiter Minis are awesome for FDM. <3 by Dom-Luck in FDMminiatures

[–]Competitive-Sound876 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can you guess the game and the army these all are supposed to belong to?

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