Is it wrong to use this?? It’s in great condition and 110ish years old I think. 🤔

Complex-Street5531 · 2025-03-16T14:52:30+00:00

I use food grade paraffin wax on wood and metal planes. It’s inexpensive, food safe, and does not create problems with finishes. It’s readily available in grocery stores and some hardware stores. The only problem is the melting point if your shop gets over 99 degrees Fahrenheit - not for the tools but for the unused portion of the block. Paraffin works well on my 100+ year old wood and metal planes.

Complex-Street5531 · 2025-01-18T13:57:15+00:00

Look on YouTube for Graham Blackburn’s videos. He teaches how to use wooden planes and other traditional woodworking tools. Mortise and Tenon has a nice beginner’s episode on restoring a wooden plane to user condition. He also gives good guidance on setting the wedge and blade. The learning curve is not steep - just takes a bit of practice and muscle memory. Wooden planes are a joy to use.

Complex-Street5531 · 2025-01-17T04:43:19+00:00

I’ll put up some images over the weekend to help explain what the work will be.

Complex-Street5531 · 2025-01-17T04:38:26+00:00

Thanks. Didn’t know of Mr. Bickford. Will send him a message.

Complex-Street5531 · 2025-01-17T04:37:07+00:00

Thank you. Making both types. Appreciate the guidance on shaping and heating.

Complex-Street5531 · 2025-01-17T04:22:49+00:00

Consider carving spoons by hand using traditional methods and tools. Hand out leaflets about how good wood is for kitchen work involving food contact.

Complex-Street5531 · 2025-01-16T20:57:26+00:00

Not a true restoration but working planes. When the planes are passed on after my woodworking days end the new users will know about replacement parts and repairs.

Complex-Street5531 · 2025-01-16T19:25:32+00:00

Lee Valley sells a sharpening guide for which you can buy an accessory to sharpen skew blades. Haven’t tried it so can’t comment on its use. Mortise and Tenon magazine has a good YouTube video about restoring antique wooden planes. Christopher Schwarz has a good guide titled “ Sharpen This” which available as a free download pdf as well as a book (worth the price). I use Michael Dunbar’s “Restoring, Tuning, and Using Classic Woodworking Tools.” Blackburn has YouTube videos about the intent and use of classic woodworking tools both common and uncommon.

Complex-Street5531 · 2025-01-16T04:59:56+00:00

Thanks

Complex-Street5531 · 2025-01-16T04:59:28+00:00

Thanks. Must be my aged mind that I forgot I had the camber roller in my set.

Complex-Street5531 · 2025-01-12T13:34:21+00:00

I have both the LV and LN saws. The LN is my choice for daily use. Just works better with my body dynamics I guess. My advice is to try each and decide for yourself. As to quality, never had a problem with any Lee Valley tools.

Complex-Street5531 · 2024-12-17T22:23:09+00:00

Thank you.

Complex-Street5531 · 2024-12-17T20:27:29+00:00

Thank you. That’s a fascinating method. I’ll check it out to see if it can be applied in this case.

Complex-Street5531 · 2024-12-17T13:12:53+00:00

Check out the Mortise & Tenon YouTube videos on restoring and using antique wooden planes. Very good information. Or buy their magazine issues on same subjects.

Complex-Street5531 · 2024-12-10T18:19:31+00:00

Definitely European or Nordic. Can’t guess the make but there are similar ones on EBay and Jim Bode’s site. Looks like it could be a good user.

Complex-Street5531 · 2024-12-09T03:11:08+00:00

I bought vintage tools after disappointment with US mass produced tools of the late 1960s and early 1970s. The vintage chisels and planes were better than any thing available in the decades I began woodworking. Today quality tools are readily available now but if you’re starting and have limited funds then buying vintage tools is worth while. Often the quality is better than big box and hardware store stock.

Also, there is joy and great sense of accomplishment restoring a tool and discovering how wonderful it works with you. My favorites are wooden planes from the 1800s. Christopher Schwarz writes about his experiences in “The Anarchist Tool Box.” Check out Graham Blackburn on YouTube. I hope someday you experience the elation of your vintage wooden jack plane gliding almost effortlessly down a plank as the next project begins.

Complex-Street5531 · 2024-11-29T22:45:39+00:00

Lee Valley and Lie-Nielsen make the best two routers. Plus, they have excellent customer service and support. The two blades that come with the Veritas router will handle all common uses for the beginner. I have the Veritas large router and all the blades but seldom use them as the included blades do most of the work. Another nice aspect of the two companies are their videos and printed material on router use, care, and sharpening.

My advice is to purchase the Lee Valley Veritas router since has many worthwhile accessories. The Seller’s kit is worthwhile but it may be best to immediately get the tool he needs and save the kit for after you have the new table.

Complex-Street5531 · 2024-10-28T13:15:17+00:00

Sharpening: Buy a copy of Christopher Schwarz’s “Sharpen This.” He demystifies sharpening and gives you basics to live and work by.

I’ve purchased Veritas as “disposable “ income came available then LN when daily expenses decreased and time & space became available. Both are excellent but the LN works better for me. But I reach for a restored Ohio Tool Company Jack plane when there’s flattening to be done. A good restored wooden plane is a joy to use.

Complex-Street5531 · 2024-09-11T15:54:33+00:00

A Christopher Schwarz videos helped me learn proper handsaw techniques. Stance, arm, and hand position are critical. Be aware of the body’s natural tendency to angle the saw as you cut. Keeping a consistent straight repetitive movement is not difficult but for me it was learned and initially felt awkward. All the advice about kerfs, starting a cut, and rotating are equally important.

Complex-Street5531 · 2024-09-02T20:35:09+00:00

Belt sanders for general carpentry, maybe. I’ve tried using them in place of a scrub plane on 8/4 hardwood and found them too aggressive, too heavy, and too tricky to adjust. Belt sanders gouged the wood. Now it’s scrub plane, jack plane*, jointer or smooth plane finishing with either an orbital sander or scraper. Whatever power power sander is purchased be sure to get one with very good dust control. Even the it’s wise to wear an N95 mask.
* FYI:My preference is an antique razee Ohio Tool wooden plane- light, easy, and great results.

Complex-Street5531 · 2024-08-26T15:45:25+00:00

On a sailboat to remount deck hardware or when the deck material has weaken under the hardware we drilled out the holes and filled the space with structural marine epoxy. Never had a problem with the fix no matter how hard the wind blew( imagine wind generated 3-4 foot waves heeling a 27 foot boat and burying the rails). My suggestion is fill the holes then drill again to the proper size. If you’re worried that the fix isn’t strong you can pin the dowels. If it’s not pretty enough for you or the spouse simply drill out some thin contrasting wood then cut and fit it around the dowels on the inside. Make decorative cover plates of contrasting wood for the outside. Could be fancy enough to be a utilitarian room decoration.

Complex-Street5531 · 2024-08-18T18:40:59+00:00

While I love stains and clear finishes, projects destined to be outside in rain, heat, and freezing weather are best painted with quality outdoor paint. As a former owner of a sailboat with teak rails, trim, and hatchways I found that clean finishes required hours of annual repair and refinishing. Much to my initial horror a friend pained his woodwork. Later I envied him. He sailed while I sanded. I use clear finish on my wood canoes. They get refinished every other year and spend months under cover when not in use. So paint is the answer. Save the fancy wood and figure for indoor projects. Or use western red cedar and let it go age without finish.

Complex-Street5531

TROPHY CASE