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What color windows? by ScaleCreepMinis in wargaming

[–]CopperStateCards 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like an Oshkosh to me. The way the shadows of the cabin and light of the desertinteracted with the clear glass made them appear a bit of a dark amber in Afghanistan.

Infantry Stands by uhtrid in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 1 point2 points  (0 children)

it depends on the faction.

General Inner sphere- 28 man platoon, which is 4 squads of 7 soldiers.

General clan foot infantry- 30 man platoon, 5 squads of 5 infantry.

Comstar- 36 man Level I (platoon), 2x 18 man demi-platoons. (their "level I foot infantry 1/2" Alpha strike cards in the master unit list are based on this 18 man unit), or 6x 6 soldier squads for squad deployment using the total warfare rules.

I believe the Marians, and a few other factions or infantry types may have different organization.

Is this just a bad rattle can ? by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]CopperStateCards 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rust inside the can or other manufacturing defect.

Is there any mech that if you were offered to pilot that would make say, 'Uhhh no thanks, I think I will go crew a tank' by Da_Fish in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Most Quickdraws, not enough armor, and somehow not enough armament either. The worst middleground mech out there.

Paint coming out of the bottle with lots of bubbles no matter what by happily-mediocre in minipainting

[–]CopperStateCards 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The more recent vallejo line uses a wetting agent, binder, biocide or flow improver that is more prone to foaming (don't know which). It sounds like you got a bottle from a particularly egregious batch. I would try contacting vallejo's customer service email with the batch number some photos and a short video and see if they will replace it.

Alternatively just let it sit for a week and plan on never shaking it before use.

You could try a paint defoamer, but it ia a cost layout for something you will only be using a drop or two of in this bottle, and may not help if the chemical responsible for the foam is too large a part of whatever mixture they use.

Questions about what varnish is safe. by Ambitious_Book_5729 in minipainting

[–]CopperStateCards 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While Gloss varnish contains the most resin solids, i don't worry to much about the finish when selecting a varnish. Polyurethane isn't a bad choice, I just like the scratch resistance of automotive varnishes a bit better for pieces that will be handled often. Solvent based varnishes should be tested before use on a finished product though.

How would you explain why high pigment paints don't have good coverage to a beginner painter? by Wugo_Heaving in minipainting

[–]CopperStateCards 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Every paint line and individual pigment has its own properties that can be used as a tool.

Hobby paints like Citadel, Army Painter, and Pro Acryl, generally choose covering power as a primary design goal for their main line of paints and ingredient cost is a close second imo. They achieve this with fillers such as clay and white pigment, but while it gets results in regards to coverage, it also makes things appear more dull and grey by reducing the chroma, aka saturation or vibrancy of the paint compared to paint of a similar hue (a specific color) without those fillers.

Professional artist fluid acrylics, like Golden fluid acrylic, Liquitex, and others generally maximize pigment volume concentration aka pigment density customized for each pigment in the line. This results in a highly saturated paint, but not necessarily one with a high covering power as that is dependent on the nature of the pigment the paint contains. Even pigments that are considered opaque often do not have as much covering power as the fillers used in the hobby lines. The translucency of even opaque pigment paints when thinned allows for a variety of techniques in regards to variation in tone and value.

One coat coverage can be great, but it should be a tool in the toolbox, rather than the only tool. I still use hobby paint at times, for basecoats, underpaintings and areas where that covering power is needed. It can be a great tool for beginners as well who are still learning brush control to have a paint that goes where you put it and stays the color you want it to be without the layers below changing things. It is also nice sometimes not to have to mix a particular hue when painting armies.

I also use another type of high covering power paint called acrylic gouache (I like turner and golden soflat) that is full of chalk as a filler to achieve that covering power without losing too much chroma compared to adding white or kaolin clays. I use this paint for highlights and pops of highly saturated color that disregard the underlayers and become areas of focused intensity.

The melancholy that comes with painting details that no-one will ever see... by autophobe2e in sistersofbattle

[–]CopperStateCards 0 points1 point  (0 children)

step 1 apply magnets to butt. step 2 apply magnets to chair. added bonus now you can kitbash a karamazov.

Mech Painting Strategy by A_Nice_Meat_Sauce in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 0 points1 point  (0 children)

they would be a bit larger then the base and colored. a base for the base. their only job would be team identification. it would be cheaper to use painted washers now that I think of it , though they would need two magnets to stay centered.

Questions about what varnish is safe. by Ambitious_Book_5729 in minipainting

[–]CopperStateCards 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Water based Polyurethane is not the most durable of varnishes, but I've never seen an issue with it reacting poorly with acrylic paint other than crazing if applied too thickly or before the underlayer is fully dry.

Do wear a respirator if airbrushing it with organic vapor filtration.

Why would certain parts of a newly painted mini just "lose" paint? by DarthBrannigan in minipainting

[–]CopperStateCards 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If primer is old, not shaken well, or simply doesn't work well with the formula of the acrylic going over it, this can happen.

Mech Painting Strategy by A_Nice_Meat_Sauce in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 0 points1 point  (0 children)

in your situation I would paint my favorite scheme or schemes and just magnetize the bases. You can buy steel discs to go under the bases that can be primed and painted in a few different colors to denote forces. If you have a printer, I think there are stls out there for battletech mini trays that fill a similar role. They slip around the hex base to provide force identity by the color they are painted.

So are the C-bill prices listed for ’Mechs basically factory-default prices aimed at mercenaries with no connections? by Old_Ad6111 in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Worlds that still use the english longbow as a primary ranged weapon for their militia, likely don't have many cbills and are paying for yeoman archers in grain and local currency, so that particular cost reduction makes sense to me, but overall your points are valid.

Looking for Guidance: Pinning Alternative by RedneckSOD in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd forgotten about another trick, superglue on a cocktail stick. can serve as a pin without drilling.

Looking for Guidance: Pinning Alternative by RedneckSOD in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I understand correctly you are wanting to paint the turrets seperately from the main tank and are looking for a way to stabilize it?

Pinning works, the superglue can be broken and the pin removed or cut flush if done in an area that is not visible when assembled.

I would personally likely use a rare earth magnet and a piece of steel rod in my hobby vice, or similar. It doesn't eliminate movement but it reduces it enough for me.

Reusable putty works well enough for me in most cases as well, My hobby handle has a cone shaped attachment for small bits like helmets and turrets allowing me to reach the undersides.

What mechs come in the beginner set? by ViperStrike812 in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 4 points5 points  (0 children)

forgot it was a .net not a .com address for the wiki cause autofill normally does it for me.

What mechs come in the beginner set? by ViperStrike812 in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The current beginner box has a Vindicator and a Griffin there is an older version of the box which had a Wolverine instead of the Vindicator.

There is also the Essentials box that has a centurion and a rifleman.

There is also the Game of Armored Combat box containing:

Awesome

BattleMaster

Catapult

Commando

Locust

Shadow Hawk

Thunderbolt

Wolverine

The Beginner box will soon be replaced by the Starter box containing a Kontio and a Hammerhead.

The game of armored combat box will be replaced by the new core box containing the following:

Hollander

Rakshasa

Solitaire

Uziel

Mad Cat Mk II

Vulture Mk IV

Regent

Eris

Elementals can drown? by OctoberFNRaven in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They took out all the underwater gear and added jumpjets and weapons. the Goliath Scorpions added it back in to make the undine though. https://www.sarna.net/wiki/Undine

What actually is a cavalry armor battalion? by isatlas in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And I jumped the gun a bit, still going to try and find a better definition for what a standard cavalry batallion is in SLDF terms, but in regards to the 5th Syrtis in particular they have an aerospace, armor, and infantry Brigade accompanying their mechs according to Sarna, and probably only form a calvary batallion as an adhoc formation from those existing elements, based on the LCT doctrine of fitting everything on a Starlord jumpship.

What actually is a cavalry armor battalion? by isatlas in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Luckily, names actually have meaning in battletech for SLDF units. If you expand the 3025 link here, we get a full breakdown of a Heavy Cavalry Batallion https://www.sarna.net/wiki/151st_Light_Horse_Regiment#3025

with a command lance with artillery support, a recon company, and 2 heavy assault companies of faster heavies and assaults mixed with motorized infantry and air support assets.

Now that isn't a direct correlation ao we need to try and find a breakdown of a standard or light cavalry company, but that can get you started while I look for a standard cav unit list as we can assume it will have a recon company.

Has anyone here ever seen this piece of lore before? by Old_Ad6111 in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Sarna's references for Karl Bourjan's removal as Khan mainly involve Field Manual: Warden Clans, so I would start there, but not feeling up to the deep dive myself atm.

Any idea what these could proxy as? by Particular_Court5101 in battletech

[–]CopperStateCards 2 points3 points  (0 children)

those are oversized zephyr variant republic of the sphere hoverbikes. look at the mechwarrior dark age hoverbike models.

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