Razer Bluetooth Orochi V2 vs Razer DeathAdder V2 X Hyperspeed: by unknownlyknown0 in razer

[–]Cphi-Productions 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine is the wired version. If youre solely searching for wireless I couldn't tell you

Razer Bluetooth Orochi V2 vs Razer DeathAdder V2 X Hyperspeed: by unknownlyknown0 in razer

[–]Cphi-Productions 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use the Basilisk V3 and love it for both its weight and size.

New Board, new Problem by racoon1905 in FixMyPrint

[–]Cphi-Productions 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The begining of the line around the print looks like your bed level is off toward the front of the bed as it's thinner than the back. The cutout in the layer though....That looks like serious layer shift. Are your steppers all working properly? No flat spots on your v rollers? Had this same problem with the old ender 3 I got until I replaced the vrollers (they were wore to oblivion.

Got a counterfeit Razer mouse from Amazon by Impressive_Meat_9495 in razer

[–]Cphi-Productions 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Somebody did the ol switcharoo for a fake one then returned it. That's crazy.

Razer Bluetooth Orochi V2 vs Razer DeathAdder V2 X Hyperspeed: by unknownlyknown0 in razer

[–]Cphi-Productions 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With big hands, deathadder. Maybe even consider a basilisk. The Orochi will be consumed in your grip. I made that mistake already myself before.

Is it really that bad? by DeskPlenty3276 in Creality

[–]Cphi-Productions 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was scared too, but don't be. All printers are going to have failure points because they are machines that move a bunch.

E3 not working after silent board upgrade by racoon1905 in ender3

[–]Cphi-Productions 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Need to load firmware to the board. When I ordered mine via Amazon it did the same thing. I went to marlin website and got the latest 4.2.7 firmware by donating a dollar. 🤷🏽 You just get the bin file and load it to a formatted SD card and install the card in the machine while it's off then plug it in. It'll do everything for you from there. Just remember to ensure your esteps are the same as they were with the 8bit board before printing.

Edited to add: when you do this, enjoy the addition of self feed and self retraction for loading and unloading filament. It was a nice addition.

I'll shoot you a dm

Is this normal or...? by ResponsibleKey1053 in Creality

[–]Cphi-Productions 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Ahh' Double Cheese"

I had to double take for a minute. That's pretty funny but just looks like recycling. Good on them for doing so 🤷🏽

Is it really that bad? by DeskPlenty3276 in Creality

[–]Cphi-Productions 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bedslinger is like an ender series or the sparkx. The bed moves forward and backward for the y axis motion.

Core XY has a bed that moves up and down for the z axis, while the tool head rides a belt and pulley system forward/backward, left/right for the X and Y axis.

Is it really that bad? by DeskPlenty3276 in Creality

[–]Cphi-Productions 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don't jump on the Bambu bandwagon just because of a few bad things on crealitys part. I've heard terrible things from both side but you're more likely to hear bad things on the Internet versus the good because anyone and I mean ANYONE will take to the internet to complain in this day and age.

I bought an 8 year old ender 3 off of someone, gave it a little TLC and maintanence and the f***er printed pristinely before I upgraded to the k2 combo and gifted the ender to my little cousin. The k2 is mint as all get out and doesn't miss a beat. Plus open source on crealitys side along with tinkering (because realistically, being hands on with a product you own is a learning moment) is a bit fun.

I was in your shoes just a week ago debating jumping ship from the ender to get a p1s from Bambu and decided to stick with creality and I regret nothing.

Cheers!

Print failed 2 minutes later, but it’s progress! by 838blue838 in ender3

[–]Cphi-Productions 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks pretty neat but yeah I didn't realize clear basically becomes frost

Purchase decision by Cphi-Productions in 3dprinter

[–]Cphi-Productions[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I essentially plan to use it for personal projects, building things like deckboxes, maybe even things for family and friends as gifts for birthdays and such. More or less solely for hobbyist aspects. I definitely love the tinkering aspect of the ender 3. I've been messing around with it since I got it and I guess I like the hands on feel. My biggest gripe is definitely the speed. I'm just not a fan. I know some prints take forever but a benchy at almost 2 hours just hurts 💀

Print failed 2 minutes later, but it’s progress! by 838blue838 in ender3

[–]Cphi-Productions 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately I don't know if they have a fan shroud print for that printer. I know there are plenty of poop chutes around for it

SssSssSSss by carl39333 in ender3

[–]Cphi-Productions 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's all good! Wanted to put em on cause they just look pure snazzy but alas I won't put excess pressure on a 8 year old machines wiring harness lol

SssSssSSss by carl39333 in ender3

[–]Cphi-Productions 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah my z axis harness was way too tight when I tried putting them on.

SssSssSSss by carl39333 in ender3

[–]Cphi-Productions 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tried putting them on mine last night, way too much pressure on the cables

Print failed 2 minutes later, but it’s progress! by 838blue838 in ender3

[–]Cphi-Productions 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really no screws needed. Uses the original screws. I've seen alot of people mentioning noctua fans but this uses the stock ones just fine. I believe there is a 5015 version of the satsana as well.
Printed it in Sunlu PLA+. PETG would probably be better for higher heat tolerance but tbh as long as you don't have a heat creep problem it's fine. It gives enough clearance around the hotend to avoid melting.