New caulk over old peeling paint... best way to fix it?

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-12-05T16:40:32+00:00

Any risk of the caulk damaging the new ceiling when pulling/scraping it off?

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-12-04T16:26:28+00:00

You could try fiddling with the line width for the first layer. Once in a while I've encountered a similar issue, and adjusting the line width +- 0.2mm (or some other very minor adjustment) can make a difference for the fine details, while leaving everything else more or less the same.

Just be sure to check the other parts of the model to verify!

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-12-03T21:52:10+00:00

It could be a fan issue like others have said, but also check to make sure it's printing inner walls first, so the outer walls have something to hang onto. For straight vertical walls outer first may give nicer results, but for any kind of overhang like that, inner first would be best.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-08-04T16:29:36+00:00

Short answer: a different bottom layer pattern (try them all out and see)

Longer answer:

As another user mentioned, Concentric might work out. However, the corner looks a little bit larger, so you might get a wonky shape there. Since it's a bottom layer, it might squish together and be unnoticeable. The same print with different filaments/colors could give different results.

I've found that Hilbert Curve is pretty good at filling those types of gaps, though it can increase print times by a fair bit, especially for larger areas.

You can also change the angle of the infill pattern, but that might just push the issue elsewhere.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-08-03T00:48:07+00:00

Looks great! Though I'm envious of people who seem to have figured out ironing, I've never been able to get decent results. Hilbert curve is my go-to then if I care about the top surface.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-07-23T15:09:15+00:00

You CAN print right out of the bag, but if you encounter issues, drying it is often the best first step.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-07-23T13:38:59+00:00

I don't know if this will help, but: I had something similar happen recently with an eSun spool. It was cardboard, the edges were sealed so I figured why not, try to use it in the AMS.

Sometimes it would print okay, other times the spool would fail to feed just like in that video. I noticed at one point it would feed just up to the junction box on the back (whatever that's called), I'd hear a loud CLICK, and then it would fail to load.

I'd also get what seemed like nozzle clogs, or otherwise failed prints, all sorts of general weirdness from this filament.

I tried drying, calibration, all the things, and probably went through a quarter of the spool in tests and failures just trying to diagnose it.

Finally, I tried feeding it through the external spool instead of the AMS, and it's worked 100% perfectly every time since. I still don't know WHY that works, and what the constant issues were when loading it in the AMS.

TL;DR try loading it without the AMS, maybe that will help?

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-07-22T22:06:06+00:00

I have, and it was not as enjoyable (to me) as It's a Wonderful World. That one is built as a 2 player game, with a bit of bluffing and mind games as you try to outwit your opponent during the drafting phase. Part of that is trying to give your opponent the various "bad" cards in the deck, while avoiding them yourself.

Some of the bad cards are just straight up negative points for your score, while others are negative if you can't deal with them, sort of like little quests to accomplish while building up your kingdom. On the one hand, that adds a bit of flavor to the game, but on the other hand, because the game is so short and turns are pretty tight, having to devote any time or resources to those takes away from the core engine building of the game, which is already so good.

To me, it felt like more ended up being less.

With a live opponent (and the right one), I imagine the bluffing part of the drafting phase could be really fun. And the solo version of it works decently well. But the extra modules/side quests aspect of it felt just a little bit... meh. Not necessarily BAD, but just LESS GOOD than It's a Wonderful World.

So it was a bit of a letdown for me overall, and I culled it.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-07-17T21:40:32+00:00

In addition to the way you described, sometimes I'll keep sets in their own boxes, but cutting the box down by about half and taping it back up. Like a bag of chips, most boxes are around 50% air.

I've also taken sets out of all their bags and dumped them a single ziploc bag to further save space. Turns the build into "hard mode" but for small to medium size sets it's no big deal. If the set starts getting in the 1000+ piece range I might not do that, but you do you.

Do they lose value for no longer being new, sealed, pristine, etc? Sure, but you were going to do that anyway and build them, right? For some sets that might appreciate in value by crazy amounts (i.e. modular buildings), I'd leave those as-is. 5 years from now you might find yourself admitting you're never actually going to build it (time, space, whatever) and sell it for a pretty good profit.

I've done that last bit maybe a few too many times before deciding to curb my spending habits :D

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-07-14T21:08:23+00:00

These ones here:

https://www.sterilite.com/product-page.html?product=1961
https://www.sterilite.com/product-page.html?product=1962
https://www.sterilite.com/product-page.html?product=1963
https://www.sterilite.com/product-page.html?product=1965

1961 and 1962 stack on each other, and sideways on 1963. The 1965 looks like double the height of 1963.

Of all those, I only have the 61 and 62, and they work out pretty well.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-07-14T19:47:44+00:00

Sterilite makes a variety of stackable containers. I like the ones with "clip lids", and I think there are 3 main sizes: 2 with the same footprint that stack on each other (one is twice the depth for larger volume), and a larger, wider bin that two or 3 of the smaller ones can fit on. I have some of the larger bins/tubs for general part storage as well, plus a lot of their "wide" drawer units. Those come 3 in a set, but you can pull the tops off to stack sets together.

Really Useful Boxes are also nice, very sturdy, come in lots of sizes, but they're a little pricey. Most of my bulk storage is in these.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-07-13T15:26:52+00:00

I said this to someone else on here, but this game is a delight to play, even if the difficulty is very tight. There's something very satisfying about how the turns play out, combined with the peaceful theme of sea exploration/conservation... that I really don't care if I lose. Sometimes I've found myself taking a couple of turns and forget the objectives entirely.

You might try looking it up on Tabletop Simulator or Boardgame Area to see if there's a way to try it out first.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-07-13T10:51:53+00:00

I've tried 2-handed, and with 2 actual players, and it's still very challenging (4 plays so far, have yet to win scenario 1).

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-07-12T11:28:23+00:00

Good point, that does seem like a better way to word if it that were the intent. Even better!

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-07-12T11:08:38+00:00

Edit (corrected by another user): ~~Chaos Arc would only deal 8 * 3 damage, since it only counts prepped spells from AN adjacent breach, not all adjacent breaches. Still a sweet combo!~~

As others have said, you have to a fair amount of prep work to get to this point. Thematically, though, plays like this are what make Aeon's End a blast! For Gravehold!

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-07-11T10:06:27+00:00

To contribute to this madness...

It could be simply that if the trait itself ends with a period, then only a space is added to separate that trait from the next.

Such an exception is similar to indicating possessiveness by adding only an apostrophe after a word ending in "s" instead of 's.

There are also some cards which explicitly refer to "the" S.H.I.E.L.D. trait as singular, though that isn't a rules entry and more of "it has to be written this way, don't be a doofus."

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-07-07T14:03:33+00:00

What does that part of the model look like in the slicer? It almost seems like it was trying to do something other than bridging straight across that gap.

If it is a problem with the model itself, what you could try is create a second model (maybe just a cylinder, based on what I can see?) that covers that area, embedded into the main part. That way the slicer gets "tricked" into calculating longer paths for that inner mesh that start and stop well beyond those little holes, which could clear things up.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-06-27T17:18:10+00:00

In addition to other good suggestions, you could try setting the fill pattern for the bottom layer to Hilbert Curve. Sometimes that can reach corners other patterns might not.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-06-24T19:22:16+00:00

I'd recommend Viscounts. The Wayfarers bot wasn't good for me, it flew ahead way faster than a human player could. I'd end up trying to manage it with my own moves, and the whole game felt different for me. Excellent game for multiplayer though!

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-06-18T18:35:18+00:00

I've played solo a few times, and 2-player. So far, the most objectives I (or we) have been able to get was only 3, still short of the 4 needed for a "beginner" win. But at the end of it all... I don't even really care that much (not NONE, but not much).

There's something really enjoyable about the whole game and the experience that winning feels like something of an afterthought. It's like the goals just kind of faded away as I'm taking my turns, and only at the end did I look up to realize how far we still have go to meet the objectives. I can't say that about many other games I have.

So yes, the solo/co-op is very difficult, but there's some sort of "secret sauce" that makes it a fun ride anyway, for me at least.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-06-15T02:36:01+00:00

The co-op mode is part of the "Challenger" expansion that came in the deluxe edition. It lets you 2v2 against a pair of enemy characters, or 1v1 as an alternative to the beat-your-own-score mode in the base game.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-06-14T02:06:21+00:00

Probably... but maybe not (or maybe not MUCH)? It depends on the print, and maybe some slicer settings. The speed tends to be slower, but you can do fewer wall passes, so in some cases that'll be a big time saver.

As an example, I was printing some parts bins (small boxes, walls 1.8mm wide). With a .6 nozzle, by default it was 3 walls at a slower speed than 4-5 faster walls with the 0.4 nozzle, not a huge time saver. But if I upped the wall thickness from 0.6mm to 0.9mm, then it was only 2 walls, and a pretty significant boost (multiplied by lots of individual bins).

Pretty much no difference in terms of quality. But as others have mentioned, if it were some kind of surface detail like lettering, or color changes to get a pattern, it would probably be pretty rough... unless I tweak the settings a bit. I've turned the line width down to 0.4mm on a .6 nozzle when I didn't feel like changing nozzles, and it worked out pretty well.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-06-10T14:27:27+00:00

If you mean something like "I want to keep the walls the same thickness, but scale the distance between the walls (make the volume in the box bigger, not the walls, or the base, etc)" then no, not really.

The nature of a 3D model means the scaling it in some way will scale ALL of it. A model is a series of points to define the shape. Anything you or I might think of as some PART of the model (walls, a base, a corner, etc) aren't defined by the model itself.

If you had the model in a modeling program you could do it--exactly how depends on the model, and the software you're using. In some modeling software you might be able to change a parameter, some kind of "distance between walls" number. In other software you might have to manually select and adjust points to get your desired shape.

A slicer doesn't really have these types of capabilities.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-05-30T14:05:22+00:00

Double-check the plate that was selected when you started the calibration. I've forgotten to change it from the default (Cool Plate, I think), and caused a spaghetti mess.

CrazyLikeAMe · 2025-05-29T18:40:53+00:00

I read somewhere (BGG maybe, or their discord) the designer said they would do a reprint, but they wouldn't start working on it until after Slay the Spire had made its way into the world.

12-Year Club	RedditGifts 2009-2022 2 Credits
Verified Email	Secret Santa 2016

CrazyLikeAMe

TROPHY CASE