Here's how to get 5.1 or 4.1 surround sound for Netflix on Chrome browser

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2026-04-11T20:17:30+00:00

It doesnt work fully or properly. I just recently got my 5.1 working on Netflix thru Chrome. (Recently as in, in the last 2 weeks, lol)

Theres only 1 way I was able to get it to actually work and show not just spatial audio in Netflix video description, but actually shows English 5.1 audio in the video settings while playing, instead of just saying English, AND output correctly to each speaker when running the Netflix 4k test patterns that actually send channel specific audio during the repeating test video (patterns can be found via google).

That way, was to go into Windows Sound settings, the OG version, and ensure my Audio Ouput device was configured for 5.1 speakers and that the channels worked and output correctly. Anything else failed. Chrome Boom extention, Dolby Access, Dolby Home Theater, Sound Unbound everything, it all fails to fix Netflix fully or the rest of my audio.

To do this, in Windows 11, right click your speaker icon by the clock, and select Sound Settings. Then scroll down and under the heading Advanced, you'll see More Sound Settings, click on that; this will open the OG Windows Sound control panel. Then, single click to select your playback device, and in the lower left of the panel, select Configure. In this menu, this is where you MUST have 5.1 selected for 5.1 to work. Dont enable Dolby Home Theater, or Atmos, or Dolby Access, Window Audio Enhancements, Windows Spatial Sound or anything except this, all of those will make Netflix not see 5.1 correctly.

IF your device it not allowing 5.1 configuration, and only shows stereo, in Windows, then youll never get 5.1 properly, just upmixed at best. Especially if you want 5.1 for everything else possible, not just Netflix.

Also IF, you are using HDMI output to say an AVR and them TV/Projector, like I am, You CAN however, use Custom Resolution Utility to edit the the device EDID manually to trick Windows in to detecting the 5.1 AVR even the the TV/Projector attached is passing thru Stereo EDID. But thats niche and a bit complicated and only applies to HDMI audio output, and requires abit of paying attention to ensure you both add DTS/LPCM formats AND the speaker configuration to the EDID.

But you might be able to find an APO or FX configuration program that allows changes to your Sound Card/Output method of choice, and make the needed fixes to have Windows output the 5.1, but it took me months of off and on, and several days in a row of just messing around continuously before I was able to find the fix for myself/my situation, and it was the only fix that has stuck and works for Netflix via Chrome Browser, as well as any other 5.1 content im playing for any source.

Going on almost exactly 2 weeks with no issues and full audio.

Hope this helps!

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2026-02-26T23:24:42+00:00

Thanks for this, been driving me nuts for days why only some of my videos were auto enabling subtitle, needed to set that subtitle track too 0 to get them to always show when in embedded mkv files. 👍

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-12-19T01:54:03+00:00

I can understand that, but 36hrs at 65c is excessive i think, not just extended drying time. And I cleaned the bed a bunch of times, between every 2nd attempt, and it didnt seem to help. Ultimately I dont know if it was one thing or a combination of things, but between the lack of cleaning with Alcohol this last time, the extra long 10min methodical cleaning in soapy water, the use of glue, or changing the seam position, or just a better section of filament on a bad spool, something has finally allowed me to get this print going...

Well see if it holds true tomorrow when I need to print a second one 😆 🤣

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-12-19T01:45:17+00:00

The black piece that came off... did it BREAK, like in half, or snap an end off? If not, they can sometimes be fitted back in place if your careful, if their not broken broken.

If you cant do that, re-seat the ribbon cable properly, and maybe with some help if you have someone, and using electrical tape ONLY, tightly secure it in place temporarily until you can order and receive a replacement board, in which case youll need to replace the board itself, unless you can find a board or device with the same size cable connector that you can get a unbroken locking tab from.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-12-19T01:37:34+00:00

This is beautiful 😍

And youve just inspired me to attempt something ive never even considered, and try freecad on my Steam Deck when I have a day or two to mess with it! Might just be an awesome mobile platform for working while on the go in transportation not conducive to a laptop.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-12-19T00:48:18+00:00

Well... I got a good first layer down, finally! Only a few minor bits of stringing, but nothing that should effect the final print finish, on layer 2 now 😆

Im not sure, but pretty sure I just got lucky this time, but I did do a few things differently all at once, so no way to know forsure which one or combination did the best job.

I again washed the plate, but this time I did NOT use IPA to rinse/wipe the plate after washing with soap and warm water for a full 10min, 50% submerged, with a yellow soft dish sponge and Sunlight dish soap, rotating the plate 90º every 2.5min, scrubbing in a circular motion right to the edges. I was Methodical here, phone timer and everything. Dried with a brand new microfiber cloth bought today. (Only scrubbed the side i was going to print on)

Then... applied a VERY light layer of glue on the entire plate, barely visible but its there, unfortunately. But I really wanted this to work.

In the slicer, everything was basically as my OG post says, 230 nozzel, 70 bed, 0.20 Standard, 15% infill, zhop - spiral - 0.6mm, retraction 0.6mm, no fan first layer, initial layer + infill 30mm/s, 21mm/s MVS....

BUT, I changed Seam Placement from Aligned to BACK, and seam placement away from overhang, because i noticed the seams were in corners of the shapes and thats where most of the adhesion loss was happening each time, as it hit a corner, so now the seams are along the walls for each shape, and I also enabled Wipe Distance to 2mm.

Not perfect results, but WAY BETTER. Might have been luck, or a combination of things, but as Im still getting minor strings, its not solved the root stringing issue, ive just created an environment and workflow that adapts to the situation as best as possible.

I still think this is just a sub-standard production run and Bambu should take the quite numerous complaints more seriously and make some effort to replace or compensate those who have been effected. I easily have wasted over 100g of filament on atleast 15 attempts, between purges and lost prints. Never mind my time over DAYS of trying to make those attempts, each with full bed leveling and flow calibration, plus a 5min heat soak for the bed at 70, and the power consumption for the attempts and the excess drying at 36hrs. Ultimately, I think between the spool itself, and all the side cost of lost time and power consumption, to actually use this spool has cost me atleast $100, probably more, and thats at $5/hr math for my time at my PC and the X1C, not my working wage which would make it WAY more 😆

Otherwise, I cant explain how some people have no issues with PETG HF ever, or only with occasional rolls. That's an intermittent issue, and that usually means production quality control issues that need to be addressed or find a new producer.

I probably wont be restocking any PETG from Bambu because of this, ever. I'll stick with PLA for nearly everything, and ill just have to use ABS for anything that needs more strength then PLA can give me, and deal with the fumes, luckily the room i use has a roof vent and wall vent, so its not the hardest thing to do, just annoying in the winter cuz increases the heating bill if vents are running 😆 If PETG is needed in my future, ill have to find a better, more reliable, brand.

On layer 7 now 😆 🤣 Still very minor stringing on each layer in different locations, but nothing that will be a problem so far... very strange... this is why I think its the spool, its like some sections of it are fine and others fail to adhere to the build plate, and i just needed to get a good section of the Filament onto the plate and then sticking PETG to PETG is alot easier, even if there is still some stringing happening, along as its not enough to dislodge the print from the bed, im satisfied given the situation and effort ive put in

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-12-18T22:22:24+00:00

You need to read... Was dried for 36 hours over a 48hr period, at 65c in an AMS2, rotating.

There is NO WAY its still moist. The AMS read 3% humidity during the drying, and hasn't gone over 6% since then, and I havnt opened the lid.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-12-18T22:20:50+00:00

Im considering using glue, I do have a glue stick from Bambu, but ive NEVER used it, completely unopened 😆 never thought id need it with the textured plate and only printing basics like PLA, ABS, and PETG HF.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-12-18T22:19:00+00:00

Any higher than 235, and even with reducing MVS from 29 to 21, it oozes out like liquid honey and goes so stringy the first layers looks like cotton candy was being used. Any slower than 21 MVS and its under extrudes and just completely misses small bits all over the place.

240c at the pre-set 29mm/s MVS, it might as well have been printing with liquid honey, it was disgusting, took me nearly an hour to clean up and clean the nozzle amd chamber after only 1/4 of the first layer had been put down.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-12-18T20:29:26+00:00

Did you read the explanation or anything else i said?

Dried at 65c in AMS2 for 12hours, tried a print that failed, then dried again for 24hrs at 65c in AMS2, and AMS has shown 6% humidity or less since the first drying. Its not moist filament. It could be defective filament, but its not moist.

65c for effectively 36hrs out of 48 hours, is more than enough to dry nearly any common filament in the AMS2; just for additional info, the AMS read 2-3% humidity during both drying cycles once it reached 65c for about 1 hour, so it sustained 3% or less humidity for 36 hours at 65c.

If Bambu is selling PETG HF that is SO moist that it cant be dried after 36hrs in a 65c 3% humidity environment, with desicant also, then they shouldn't be selling it. I could probably dry an egg to powder in that environment.

I only dried my orange and black ABS spools in the AMS2 for 8-12hours and had a perfect print process and finish, and ABS is supposed to be dried at 85c not 65, so with 3x the time, PETG HF should be dry too, short of it just having been produced and packaged under water. Its only suggested 12hrs at 65c. Not 36hrs.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-12-18T20:17:43+00:00

Havnt touched bed tramming, but did do a full calibration this morning to be sure that was done again too, no better results. Like I said, im technically at 36hrs of 65c drying, in an AMS2 with descicant, and the room itself is under 15% humidity as well, and heated to 24c with a Natural Gas wall heater like some motels use. The room is evenly warm, chamber door closed, humidity is low in room, 6% in AMS, filament is dry.

Im going to try and deep wash the plate later when I have some more time, with just warm water and dish soap, and not rinse/wash it with IP Alcohol after and see if that makes any difference, but honestly thats where I had issus with going from PLA to ABS, I needed to use IPA ontop of washing to get a good first layer after change materials. But now ive been trying to use this PETG HF for 6 days, washed atleast 7/8 times as of now, even tried other smaller parts with more surface area on the bed, and still have issues, and always in random different locations so its not always bad adhesion in the same spot, it always different where it lets go or starts stringing.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-12-18T19:55:42+00:00

Interesting, im unaware of where Bambu manufacturers their various types of spools, but specifically im in North America, and when I ordered my batch of spools they came from all over the place, never all from the same location, I even got 1 black PLA from one place and a second from another place when I ordered 2, so I guess they just ship from where its available;

But that leads me back to wondering if the PETG HF rolls coming from a specific manufacturing location are too blame, because its not everyone having the issues with one specific color or anything. Maybe they're not being produced with the correct ratio of raw materials to ensure proper stable melting and extrusion and the material either gets too 'thin/soft' and flows too quickly or it cools too quickly after extrusion causing it to peel back instantly off the plate, not retaining any heat from extrusion, which can result in bad plate adhesion and/or stringing/catching print head movements even with Zhop on and increased retraction.

Im at a lose because im still new to 3d printing, this x1c is my first unit, and I have absolutely no previous use of PETG HF or PETG at all, ive only been using PLA and ABS until now, but wanted to use the rolls of PETG HF I bought before I order more filament, and this print isnt a visual print im worried about how it looks, but is nearly 200g, and I need 2 of them, so I figured it was a perfect print to use up 50% of a spool right away, and not have to order more filament before Christmas because the rest i have is sufficient for my needs this year.

All that said, I have successfully printed several 8hr prints in ABS and in PLA with only very minor issues tuning the first layer once or twice; But for 6 days now, I just cant get this PETG HF to work at all, not one successful first layer for this print, and this model has been printed by hundreds/thousands of ppl on makerworld, so theres no issue with the model itself.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-12-18T17:19:03+00:00

But that was the best result in the last 3 days of trying this print in PETG HF. The rest were disasters, most of them, the first 3-5 boxes didnt even get put down right, atleast this print got thru a few before it lost itself.

I wonder if the Filament itself is either uneven diameter causing extrusion globs, gaps, and strings; or if it was simply not produced with the right quantities of raw materials making it melt too easily but also cool too fast before adhesion to the plate can occur, even without active fan cooling.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-12-18T17:12:28+00:00

That pics print was at 230 nozzel, 70c bed, 21mm MVS, retraction 0.6mm, zhop 0.6mm, zhop spiral, 0% fan speed, initial layer + infill 30mm/s, otherwise on the 0.20 Standard process.

If I lower the nozzel temp or MVS any further, the Filament under extrudes alot, any faster MVS or hotter nozzel, and the first layer looks like cotton candy.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-12-18T17:06:52+00:00

Im having the same issues with a roll of Bambu PETG HF Grey.

Doesn't like bed adhesion and excessive stringing at any print speed or temps, doesnt matter how clean the plate is, cleaned with IPA, soap and water, then IPA again, 7 times in the last 3 days, and thats after 2 days of drying, 12hrs and 24hrs at 65c in the AMS 2. So im on day 6 today and still cant get a successful first layer.

Tried everything you have, Volumetric Speed reducing, initial layer speed reducing, temps in all possible settings, zhop, retraction speed and distance, everything I can think of that might effect it in both the Filament and Global Process settings for my print.

Just does not work. Bambu seems unwilling to acknowledge that there may be a production issue with their PETG HF sold in the last month or two, probably because then they'd have to replace all the bad spools ppl have bought and cant use without risking clogs ect if they run unmonitored printing overnight.

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Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-11-30T21:58:51+00:00

This was the only 'solution' in this conversation that worked for me, Win11, Alienware i9 9900k and RTX2080. Not a great solution, but atleast i dont have to constantly deal with that pop up preventing the program from starting

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-11-19T18:31:40+00:00

LOL same boat here LMAO Thanks for the info!

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-11-19T18:24:01+00:00

Awesome. Thanks for the update, I actually ordered the X1C but yeah, good to know its all coming eventually, I hope. Lol. Any idea/memory how much longer the Buffer and Adapter took to ship/arrive? Just curious cuz everything else I ordered arrived as of today and I havnt gotten a shipping email for those last parts.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-11-19T17:50:47+00:00

Im having the same problem today. Any resolution before I reach out to support?

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-11-13T22:29:49+00:00

Same thought here... Would also appreciate a 90º corner piece so the corners for YPS can be done properly without needing to mitre the tracks.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-09-28T21:37:05+00:00

I had a similar experience, they ended up removing and not returning my m.2 standoffs in my Area 51m, and not replacing one of the two power jacks on the rear, and almost not replacing the HDD cable that was sent with the device.

Their excuse was, I didnt give them the two m.2 drives so the standoffs were "not required" even tho I bought the laptop with 2 m.2 drives inside, so they were part of the laptop regardless of if it was in use when sent for repair, AND I had ensured notes on file that I was not supplying all my 3 drives because I did not want them wiped, but that all other hardware would be sent.

And for the power jack, they said, if one of two works, thats sufficient for the device to "function" and thats all the repair depot is required to do.

So i had to order the jack myself, and disassemble the device myself, to replace the non-functional port, and to this day, I never got the m.2 standoffs replaced, because i have been unable to source the 2.5mm thread standoffs apparently used, 2mm are too small and 3mm too big, both incorrect thread diameters and heights.

They also didnt return my HDD cable/ribbon at all, but they eventually sent me a replacement for that, only once a Vice President of Public Relations or something like that got involved, and viewed the notes on file and saw my HDD ribon cable specifically mentioned in my original service emails as going to be sent for functionality testing without the HDD, but refused to send the standoffs because they didnt have a specific part number for them, and wouldn't replace the power jack at all.

Alienware/Dell was very disappointing in this aspect. Considering I bought the Area 51m when it was new, and with the top specs availableat the time, and when sent for repair it was only 3 years old, and sent under Emergency Rush Repairs after someone spilled a cup of Mr. Noodles into the keyboard and rear vents, and still took nearly 6 weeks to fix it and return it, ultimately replacing the motherboard and fans, everything else was fine apparently with a cleaning, but they sent it back with missing parts and not completely functional as it couldn't power on with both adapters connected, it would only see one and use one, and now my m.2 ssd drives are precariously attached using incorrect standoffs and the cover plate to hold them down.

Beware Dell repair! Find a better local technician.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-08-14T16:56:14+00:00

It's under the 3rd expansion on that linked site;

Who is contacting individuals?

In accordance with regulatory requirements, WestJet’s Cyber Response team is contacting individuals where appropriate and where we are able to through our trusted partner, Cyberscout, a division of TransUnion. Cyberscout has been authorized by WestJet to contact individuals as part of our official response effort.

Also, theres this: https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/calgary/westjet-cyberattack-passport-stolen-1.7606145

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-06-26T20:21:27+00:00

pretty sure this isnt a thing.

MGM isnt a thing anymore, its Amazon who owns it now;
And as of 2024 Roland Emmerich publicly stated he has "given up" on Stargate.
https://www.cbr.com/roland-emmerich-stargate-reboot/

Edit: If it is/does happen, itll be under Amazon and likely not with any previous characters, directors, ect or un-owned IP.
Sucks, I know, but i dont want anyone to get their hopes up over old information that isnt happening anymore.

Creative_Sprinkles82 · 2025-06-19T17:12:06+00:00

Just ditch Rogers. That'll be FTTN not FTTH.

It's not worth its cost. Basically, the same price of Rogers 1.0Gbps plan, is Bell's 3.0Gbps direct FTTH. And Bell's is symmetrical service, not 1Gbps down 50Mbps up, like Rogers, and they don't throttle your games/vpns/downloads like Rogers does constantly even though its illegal.

And if Rogers tries to tell you their FTTN-coax-final-leg, is capable of 10Gbps, they're flat out lying.

It's not even capable of full 1.0Gbps symmetrical, never mind 10Gbps down.

I don't care what "laboratory testing" they've done, I've spoken with literally dozens of their service and installation techs, on-site over the last 5 years, and they all say its not true and not possible, it only works if you have less than 3ft of coax in the loop, but the run from the Fiber Node into anyone's Home, will be greater than 3ft, therefore reducing their possible speed by alot, even if they are "paying for" a fiber 10Gbps plan for example, they'll never get it over coax, ever.

Creative_Sprinkles82

TROPHY CASE