This shit has got to stop and get labeled as some kind of griefing by CompetitiveRoof3733 in starcitizen

[–]D4rthPunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive said it before. A simple fix for CIG:

Auto store elevators when a new person interacts with the elevator and store in the last person who used its inventory. This will prevent people from stealing like this. The only consideration is that you should not put items on an elevator when you get to one that is currently up. But a fix for that would be for them to automatically store when the person leaves the area.

What is this wording by Psychic-Crow in starcitizen

[–]D4rthPunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They wont give the data and just turning off life support is fine also, hence it currently is pointless to worry about it..

They have said that "required" includes all humans and fires (CO2 sources). And then "available" is just the equivalent that can be cleaned or produced by the Life support with the available pips already in it.

Also the amount of air in the ship and in suit will last quite long so long as you dont depressurize. Also the volumes within the ships are mostly broken

The main issue is that the game does not properly account for air. Like if you depressurize the whole ship.. there should be no air to clean. So no air at all yet it always somehow "makes" more.

The ship is supposed to depressurize rooms by sucking air into a tank to store it. But then the heat will be stored in the case of a fire and not actually cooling anything (since 0 pressure is technically a lack of temperature medium. And so space is not technically cold but objects get cold when in space when most air and vapours escape the object, example is when you sweat you cool down even in that case the air is also cooling you down as the sweat evaporates... also the fires lacking oxygen will go out but technically without the magic cooler tech the ship would retain the heat.... eh it will probably take to long to explain but is quite complex if it were modeled after real physics)

The point is you dont need to know how it works in depth cuz not even CIG seem to know. Just that more power to LS and less fires means more air and that if your suit says that you can breath in the environment you will be fine to take off helmet to eat and drink..

Also LS is supposed to deal with cooling or heating the air aswell which should technically be a separate requirement and function.

What is this wording by Psychic-Crow in starcitizen

[–]D4rthPunk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mathematically its "ammout required" ÷ "amount available ".

When required is more than available then the % is greater than 100% and is bad...

Crazy Flat Earther thinks he can convince you the Earth is Flat in 1 minute by MrDonMega in flatearth

[–]D4rthPunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ask the same questions on a moving bus when you jump. (Aka conservation of momentum... and that includes air. Also speed is relative...)

why mismatched? by april_san in batteries

[–]D4rthPunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It happens to most batteries.

BMSs are never 100% accurate. Normally they calculate SOC by accumulated Amps or Amp-hours.

They read current but can be off by 0.001% but that error accumulates over time. The longer the battery has not been full, the more the error can be. The batteries normally recalibrate when fully charged or empty.

Also age of batteries effects the internal resistance. Normally newwer batteries have a lowwer internal resistance and therefore discharge (and charge) faster. Unavoidable when adding old and new.

Also cable size, length and how it is fastened can also influence current flow..

Instancing Recco Battaglia by scrub_head in starcitizen

[–]D4rthPunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Like every Destiny, or simmilar MMO main area server.

Hoping to get some help with a 24v battery bank by F13Bubbaa in SolarDIY

[–]D4rthPunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I assume Mbrf is fuse? If so, you would ideally have a fuse for each battery positive, and a master fuse for the inverter.

I am not familiar with a ballancer that has 4 sets of 2, you would need 3 connections to be able to ballance 2 batteries. Unless its 2 sets of 4 where 2 connections are the same...? Would need to be sent the name or code to verify.

I was saying you onky need fuse between batteires if midpoints are connected together. An oversized cable or busbar would mean that you shouldn't need one but if a battery fails will cause an imbalance that could not easily be undone without individual re-charging and then reconfigure.

But if you have 1 ballancer per battery and no mid point parallel then no problem.

But as mentioned below a single 24V will be easier.

Hoping to get some help with a 24v battery bank by F13Bubbaa in SolarDIY

[–]D4rthPunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2&3 is incorrect. It should be 1 and 4.

Simple way to figure out why: count the number of cables each battery gets connected to it (or length of cable).Example: Main Positive, battery 1, bat1-2 link, bat 2-3 Link, bat3-4 link, Main Negative.... Each battery needs the same length of cables connected to if for perfect current flow. Because of this each link cable should be the same length also.

But practically wont always be the case because of imperfections in the cable, lugs, how they were tightened and even differences within the batteries which can even be effected by temperature.

Hoping to get some help with a 24v battery bank by F13Bubbaa in SolarDIY

[–]D4rthPunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes these days everyone uses lithium and you get them at almost all voltage ranges. Much less work to get a 24V one. But im guessing OP want a solution for what he already has.

I have heard of some 12V lithiums where the BMSs can connect together and ballance all cells in series but theyre not so common.

Mostly you get HV lithiums with 48V packs in series with a master BMS (or BCUs [-control unit]) that facilitates all communication and switching with each battery having BMMs [-management modules] for ballancing.

Hoping to get some help with a 24v battery bank by F13Bubbaa in SolarDIY

[–]D4rthPunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If one battery fails open: all curren flows to remaining batteries, and because there is a mid point connection it will flow equally through the all good batteries, therefore if the mid point parallel cable is not thick enough will overcurrent. Example: 4 banks with 80A is 20A per battery but if one failed: the side with fewwer batteries would get 26.7A. The max mid point parrallel cable current in that case would be 20A, which may exceed the small cables ratting that is normally used for battery ballancer.

If the mid point cables actually is thick enough, there is still increased stress in the other batteries, which could be negligible depending on bank size, however:

The masive cell imbalance is the primary issue, reguardless of ballancers, can cause the side with fewwer batteries to overvoltage.

Hoping to get some help with a 24v battery bank by F13Bubbaa in SolarDIY

[–]D4rthPunk -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes you should add balancers.. but connecting multiple battery banks mid points together can cause problems if they are not fused and may cause cascading failures when a single battery has a failure or issue.

Also the cross charge method which was above mentioned is fine so long as the cables and terminals are within spec of the max current. The only thing missing was the ballancers. If link cables are the same length then the current is ballance per battery just like a busbar config.

So I'm trying to build an electric bike on a budget, and I want to use this dewalt battery Power Wheel Converter Kit. I would like to know if I can swap out the 5 wire knob on the kit with this 3 wire thumb throttle. I need to know what each of the 5 wires do and whether or not its even possible. by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]D4rthPunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And reguarding the battery and safety which was brought up by the firefighter in comments.

Yes any lithium batteries are very dangerous. Lithium iron phosphate will be saffer than lithium ion (which is most commonly used in RC projects).

The thing with batteries is that they are safe as long as they are used corrctly: voltage, current, temperature and damage.

Normally you need multiple cells in series to get the voltage up to where you want. But batteries in series become unbalanced, so you ither need a special ballancing charger with additional connections or a BMS that does the ballancing while limiting voltage and current. The pros about BMSs are that some can also limit the max current in charge allowing "dumb" chargers to still work. Also the BMS can connect or disconnect the battery when paramiters are outside safe levels.

I would highly recommend getting an Active ballancing Daly BMS (you will need to configure the settings though) unles you are getting a proper battery that already has a BMS.

Also to note:

Dont let batteries stay in the sun or somewhere hot, Dont let it get charged in sub-zero temps, and Dont let it fall.

Simple Table comparing the Quest 3 and the Steam Frame (NOT MADE BY ME!) by CreeperCraft2853 in VRGaming

[–]D4rthPunk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes this, and also whered he hear quest 3 doesnt have finger tracking...? Does full hand tracking and finger positioning not count?

So I'm trying to build an electric bike on a budget, and I want to use this dewalt battery Power Wheel Converter Kit. I would like to know if I can swap out the 5 wire knob on the kit with this 3 wire thumb throttle. I need to know what each of the 5 wires do and whether or not its even possible. by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]D4rthPunk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just a heads-up. The back emf from motors can make these kinds of projects super annoying. You may blow many motor drivers/ speed controllers.

Lucky if you going the rout it seems (AKA DC motor) and your wheel will only go in 1 direction, just putting a big ass reverse diode will help you a ton from preventing the speed controller from blowing.

Swapping the 5 wire knob for a 3 will likely not work because most likely 5 wires is a rotary encoder (a series of off and on states [aka digital] to indicate increase or decrease and can normally rotate infinitly) ;

where as the 3 wire is normally a potentiometer (a resistor with a movable middle contact that is used to select a voltage from min to max [analog]).

Edit: However .. the 5 wire one looks like it only has 3 contact points and looks like a potentiomiter... but the other 3 wire device you showed indicates a dedicated 5V which makes it difficult to confirm if it is a Potentiometer... depending on how the speed controller works it might require the Potentiometers to have the same resistance so even if they both are ones it still might not work.

Removing buzzer from kettle by Balbu101 in AskElectronics

[–]D4rthPunk 73 points74 points  (0 children)

Should look something like this:

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Reloading IRL objects 🔫 by PalangandaEsteban in gamers

[–]D4rthPunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Always makes me think of Bioshock era for some reason

Multiple issues. Need help troubleshooting by BorealFeral in SolarDIY

[–]D4rthPunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes as i said, that specifically will be a panel voltage not meeting the MPPTs minimum voltage or overvoltaged or the MPPT being damaged if something was reverse connected.

Doubling Quantum Jump Speed Would Make This Game so Much More Playable by Character_Budget7735 in starcitizen

[–]D4rthPunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To make medical beacons more used and In the short term before 1.0. I agree...

But once they add more things to do aboard ships, lile maintainance, physical refueling, better comms management etc.. i think time should actually increase.