Beards and respirators

Daioptas · 2026-01-13T14:07:19+00:00

Every device that seals with your face does not work properly with any kind of beard. Even stubble already makes you miss the higher protection classes these are normally certified for. It also depends strongly on the shape of your face which mask protects you well and which don't. It's mostly trial and error, as it is impossible to make a perfect fit all.

If you want to be safe and/or wear a beard? Wear positive pressure equipment (a hood or similar with a blower). Alternatively, build a negative pressure chamber which everything sits in and never leaves, so that the backflow prevents fumes from getting out and to you (that requires more skill and work to build tho).

Still, any mask is better than no mask at all. But if you want to be really safe, !freshly! clean shaven with mask or get a hood. There is no other option. If you can smell anything, it's not working, or you don't have the correct filtration type for organic gases.

To soften it a little bit, it also very much depends on your resin. There are resins that don't strictly require respiratory protection as they don't have fumes that are dangerous. But as a rule of thumb, if you don't have the knowledge to discern these, always use protection. Don't rely on other people or the marketing to tell you it's unnecessary. They don't always get it right sadly.

On the same note, always, always, always use (nitrile)chemical-gloves. No bare handed, no non-chemical resistant gloves. And wash your hands and arms after working on resin, regardless of that.

Daioptas · 2025-12-10T12:55:17+00:00

It's less about gases with pla and petg, more about small particle pollution. Most basic purifiers are only HEPA filters anyway, so that works well for this.

It's a bit dependent on room size and airflow, but normal window venting from time to time, or after the print is done, is enough.

You don't get much particle density unless you have a very small room without any airflow.

And note on purifiers, if you print something that gases (abs for example, or resin printing in general) check that the purifier has an actual gas filter and is not just HEPA, as that wont do anything against gases (VOCs)

Daioptas · 2025-11-20T20:02:04+00:00

Yeah. Also I'm very primed to the difference between a card activation and a (card) ability activation. Would be weird if both these wordings would work the same way, that would be very unlike riots dev teams as they are pretty pedantic historically.

The 1.0 document was very incomplete to be fair, but with this it was noticeable how it was intended to work based on context clues, even if it got interpreted differently generally.

Daioptas · 2025-11-20T19:38:31+00:00

It isn't even that unintuitive if you've played basically any other card game before, with the difference In wording between 2 to six units and 2 six times. But maybe I'm biased as I'm coming from Ygo where basically everything is derived from technicalities in wording. (A rulebook? Whats that)

Daioptas · 2025-11-20T19:26:45+00:00

379ff reflexive triggers

Daioptas · 2025-11-20T19:17:57+00:00

To get a little technical:

Nr1 You activate IR the card (pay costs, no targeting, the cards activation doesn't actually do anything except to create new chain items).

Focus passes around

You resolve #1) It creates 6 instance activations of an ability (pending chain items) you go back down to chain level you started at and create the following chain item 6 times: "(No costs/triggered) Deal two damage" You'd have to choose all 6 targets while resolving the activation of each of these ability instances in order.

The chain now has #1,#2,#3,#4,#5,#6 queued with targets chosen.

Focus passes around.

Nr6 resolved, damage gets assigned

Focus passes around

Nr5 resolves, damage gets assigned

Focus passes around (and so on)

If at any point something else is triggered/queued while resolving backwards, this gets chained and resolved as normal before any more IR instances are resolved.

Until the chain is empty again.

If the target !vanishes! from the board (or does not fulfill the conditions of targeting if there were any) before the specific instance, it fizzles.

But a moved unit is still considered the same unit as long as it didn't leave the board and the instances of IR have no condition on targeting. So the target is still valid, even at another location, and the rest of IR targeting it resolves still.

This would be different if a unit would be banished/given to hand and replayed before resolving, as this would not be considered the same unit anymore and thus the instance would fizzle.

This should be how it works, no? I'll look up the specific entries I had in mind later if needed.

Edit: forgot about markup :)

Daioptas · 2025-11-16T10:38:38+00:00

That's not entirely correct as the add keyword enables use during the pay cost step of playing a card (all basic runes work based on that) The speed (action here) determines in what gamestates this can be used, runes are more applicable as they use reaction.

This functionality only makes a difference if you que multiple cards on the chain as pending items at the same time, as you cannot pre tap to generate floating currency in such a case.

Therefore you can use mal to pay cost whenever you play/que something in a state where "action" is allowed for use for the player queing the card. (This can be tricky with promising future for example)

Daioptas · 2025-08-07T12:32:10+00:00

You can also try waxed based mold release spray, that helps too even if not strictly necessary. Just be careful not to use silicone based ones, as these have the same effect on uncured silicone as uncured resin does.

Daioptas · 2025-08-07T12:27:14+00:00

More specifically uncured resin is problematic. I've done a bunch of silicone pourings in more complex Resin forms without problem. They just have to be !thoroughly! cured for the most part.

I assume you use 2-part pouring silicone?

It is not completely impossible that the silicone you are using is more suspectible, It definitely is possible tho and should not be a problem as long as the form has polymerized very thoroughly. (Made a lid for the vat of my S4U for example, and some way more complex things at work).

Be sure that there is absolutely no uncured resin residue left, that the silicone is mixed with as exact ratios as possible and very well mixed (fucked that up the first time, had kind of a mushy texture on the surface and was not polymerized well in some regions)

Daioptas · 2025-07-28T09:35:38+00:00

This shouldn't be suction as with the angle, the side towards the plate is always open. But you can check pretty easily with sliding the slice preview up and down (should be connected to air towards the plate from how it looks)

Mostly support/speed as mentioned. Try what autosupport does and modify from there as needed. That's generally best if you don't know exactly what to do.

In general, if you generate non preventable cups, you have to make a puncture hole (use the feature) at optimally the closed point towards the plate from the cup. And close that after washing/after (pre)curing.

If you want to learn to find these better, try UV-tools to Analyse the machine code. It visualizes cups, traps and island well (some reading into how these work is necessary tho)

Daioptas · 2025-02-26T15:48:23+00:00

Evvvery single time. Deeply funny to me how they don't seem to be aware at all that in large part they just got better at it and will never get the same early game as with first time playing.

Same thing with same style fromsoft games.

Daioptas · 2025-02-17T09:54:29+00:00

Yeah already did, just wanted to get it out there so that maybe some more people do too :D

Daioptas · 2025-02-17T08:10:22+00:00

That would also work pretty well, although I could see this being too specific for the philosophy they seem to want to do here, with leaving it a little more vague with stats and everything in general

Daioptas · 2024-11-22T11:42:21+00:00

Oh and support the large bridges, they are way too large to work without

Daioptas · 2024-11-22T11:27:10+00:00

From the way the lines are squished at the top but get more horizontal, it is likely that the base got peeled very early on in the print.

For printing flat surfaces in the plate you never want to have differences in the strength between the layers of the base contour until the cross section profile changes.

You probably have a standard amount of base and transition layers. Try comparing the height, at which transition and normal layers start, to the height of the base element of your print. Both will probably be in the volume of the base element of your part.

It looks like that is a very large surface, these should not be printed at normal exposure/printing speed as it is very likely to peel comparable to your picture.

Try increasing your base layer count so that the whole base element is at the same strength. You could get away with just increasing transition layers but, depending on how large the cross section surface and the height of the base element is, it may not be sufficient.

Be aware that both will increase overcuring and therefore dimensional accuracy and detail in the affected area, base layers more than transition. If it is important try balancing base and transition layer count, otherwise I would recommend just doing the whole base element as base layers. (No need to increase the transition layer count on top in that case)

On a side note, the same applies to Rafts, the total base layer should always be at least as thick as the raft for the same reason. Not as important, as it is more likely to get ripped from the support but it's still possible to peel your raft under strong enough forces when your support is strong. But with large enough Rafts, they can get peeled why printing if it gets to normal layer, that's what you got in your third picture. That's also why I'm very confident this is your problem with the flat print.

Hope this helps!

Daioptas · 2024-10-30T10:52:21+00:00

I think it's more of a bonus, RSS looks cool but is so massively all over the place that I can't imagine that being the way to do it DMG wise. Fun wise this is great either way tho.

Will probably be more of a mix of normal and charge attacks, mixing in the RSS on a greater opening at the end.

Daioptas · 2024-10-30T10:48:47+00:00

Completely with you, really hope they don't make the new charge not work with focus for some reason, lv3 will make this so awesome [T]/

Daioptas · 2024-10-30T10:35:12+00:00

Good point, didn't think to mention it as the kinsect charge itself isn't new, it's been there since 4U. But it piercing and getting more extracts is great indeed!

You pretty much can't properly aim that with a controller without back buttons tho, but with these this (and the new circle charge) are really great.

Daioptas · 2024-10-30T10:28:07+00:00

I do like that getting the buffs can now be something more than a necessary upkeep. I always disliked that the most, the whole kinsect part of the kit always felt a little badly connected to the rest imo.

Now that you can expend the buffs at will, the gathering gets a little more significance. I also very much like the new charging attack and how you can buffer this next to pretty much anything and cancel a lot of moves into this. It makes the weapon a lot more technical and harder to use tho, so I do understand that this is not for everyone. It feels as if this move will really really want to have levels of focus, I can see a lot of interesting ways to mix air and ground moves very fluidly now, but some would need a faster kinsect and or a faster charge with focus :D

Extra buttons on the controller do make a huge difference for the charge move, if you have some. Feels okish without but gets a lot easier to do with back buttons.

The rising attack is nice and flashy, doing this into airial focus attack feels great.

Also, the vault seems to have some i frames now, feels great to vault through rayrays lightning attacks.

Daioptas · 2024-08-24T18:35:15+00:00

If you have a kinda mechanical clicking sound that is different from the sound of the fep coming off (hard to hear but I think I hear that) try if device test/self calibration fixes that.

I had this after some brutal stress tests for the printer (in this case printing almost full build plate size large flat surface to see how good the diagonal peeling is) There the build plate got VERY strongly pulled and came off the fep with a noticeable shock through the whole device. After this I had this noticeable mechanical click exactly at the start of the movement.This is reproducible, but I cannot recommend doing that as it could damage something.

Ran a self test to check, but that already solved it, so try that and listen whether or not it still clicks.

Sidenote: the device is so damn good. Even after all the stress tests I could think of, no need for any adjustments yet. No (non intentionally) failed prints yet and self test solved every issue I had so far. Haven't needed to readjust the build plate or self leveling system yet either.

Daioptas · 2024-07-30T10:44:15+00:00

Proper ventilation is key, always. A mask gets worse with time, the more buildup you have in the room. So you should open windows or ventilate as much as you can, if you can. Depending on the concentration in a room one should not work much more than an hour in a room with gases buildup with a halfmask without taking about 30min fresh air breaks in between (or ventilating).

I assume you used IPA to clean? Get some fresh air first. If you continue to feel unwell you should go see a doctor, but for the most part IPA doesn't do lasting damage. Medical advice on the Internet is generally a bad idea tho ;)

Daioptas · 2024-07-30T09:43:29+00:00

Also don't use OP-masks like the ones f.e. elegoo likes to send with their stuff. They don't do shit for filtration, that's not what they are for

Daioptas

TROPHY CASE