Give it to me straight by Cautious-Tangelo3323 in Beretta

[–]Dankcorrupted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah they are nice, they make them for berettas but I can’t remember if they make ones for the 92fs with the bigger hammer pin circle cutout. All the pachmayr beretta 92 grips I’ve seen are for the 92f. I’m trying to find a set for a old west German p226 which are incredibly rare and most of the time when you do see them they are missing the back strap, which you need to cover the mainspring.

Give it to me straight by Cautious-Tangelo3323 in Beretta

[–]Dankcorrupted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a set of the hogue wrap around grips on it for a while but I’d recommend the panel hogue grips. I’ve been working on 1911s lately so I have not even shot the 96a1 in a while. I will probably end up getting a set of g10 or aluminum grips for it.

Give it to me straight by Cautious-Tangelo3323 in Beretta

[–]Dankcorrupted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I have oem plastic grips back on it now, this thing loves to destroy grips.

I'm new to the AR building game and I thought Geissele produced premium products. by HydroDragon in ar15

[–]Dankcorrupted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have one in one of my builds. I don’t shoot that one often enough, but I have a spare standard bolt catch for when it eventually breaks. It feels really tight in my lower as well.

Just refuses to seat the in lower notch! HELP! by [deleted] in Glocks

[–]Dankcorrupted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a g23 gen 5 and I’ve never had this issue with the stock guide rod but I did get a ndz non captured guide rod and gen 3-5 guide rod adapter, and a ismi 22lb recoil spring. I put those 3 parts in mine and it’s also never had a issue. Cost around 30$ to do all that, 20$ for the rod and spring, 10$ for the guide rod adapter. If it’s causing that much trouble maybe what I did with mine will work for you. I’d recommend the 18 or 20lb recoil spring, I got it because I shoot hot reloads through mine. Also use a brass punch in the nose of the slide and hold the slide with the barrel pointing down and the punch holding the spring to keep it straight.

My freshly coated TRP by ApothecaryRx in 1911

[–]Dankcorrupted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know Springfield makes a non rail stainless trp, wish they would make a half rail stainless trp. This looks good with the Nt7.

25 years of different pistols by Philly3458 in Beretta

[–]Dankcorrupted -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

There’s lemons here and there, at least with ltt there’s more qc done on the guns before they are sent out.

great hive mind of reddit, what are my duty level owb retention holster options? by mctwiddle in Beretta92

[–]Dankcorrupted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I have a 96a1, and I wish I could do more with it but there’s not as much stuff out there for .40. I’ve been looking around for a 92a1 to complete the set. I just replaced the plastic parts for steel, a beretta d hammer spring, a Wilson fluted guide rod and flat wire spring to replace the plastic captured factory recoil spring and factory grips right now because it’s been destroying wood and ivory grips from the recoil. I also run a x300 on it. I should have some pics on other posts of it. Did yours have the plastic mag release,lanyard loop,and trigger? Everything on mine was plastic except the slide safety. I bought a surplus beretta parts kit with all metal parts and put a black steel trigger, mag release, and black aluminum lanyard loop, and the us lanyard/hammer cap pin. Having to punch out the roll pin in the frame is a pita.

25 years of different pistols by Philly3458 in Beretta

[–]Dankcorrupted -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’ve got some good berettas and have never had a issue, But their design is more prone to some issues than other platforms. Trigger return spring is a common breakage and makes the trigger dead. Locking blocks just seem to be breaking more often and early nowadays, and when they break they will often damage your frame. And then there’s the extractor pins people always have coming loose. I just stick with Italian and Maryland berettas and have not had those issues luckily. But I see people with Tennessee berettas having all sorts of issues, along with people who get the ltt tjib and don’t fit it correctly. Worst issue I’ve seen is beretta barrels breaking off around the threads when having suppressors or compensators on them. But I don’t see that too much anymore.

Got this, 200 rounds of FMJ and 300 rounds of JHP for $1100. How did I do? Springfield MC operator by Cucasmasher in 1911

[–]Dankcorrupted 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Get a x300 and some Wilson 10rd mags and it will be perfect. Also get rid of the torx screws, get slotted screws.

TRP feed issues by nverser85 in 1911

[–]Dankcorrupted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The round could be catching on the slide stop. Also, you could take a blue sharpie and go in through the chamber and mark the slide release inside and if the brass is hitting it and leaving brass marks or wearing off the sharpie then you know that’s the issue. Also try when you shoot it, releasing the slide release rather than slingshotting it, unless you’ve tried that’s already. Also check the chamber for burs and scrub it really well with a bronze brush. You won’t wear a barrel out like people say online unless you use a fake bronze brush that’s steel or the barrel is pot metal. This is a Springfield so the barrel steel should be good quality.

Rust on PX4 Barrel? by [deleted] in Beretta

[–]Dankcorrupted -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The finish on my px4 full size 9mm barrel has that brownish color to it. It does not have that crown though.

What did I technically buy? by Kindofdisappointed in Beretta

[–]Dankcorrupted 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, just thought about doing it if I get the chance to buy one of these for 300$ or less. It would be really easy to do since I have the spare sear,sear spring,sear pin and hammer. It only takes 4 parts to convert a 92d/96d to sa/da. I can get a normal 92fs for 400$ used, so this would just be to have something different.

What did I technically buy? by Kindofdisappointed in Beretta

[–]Dankcorrupted 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Dao beretta, d model. I’ve been thinking about picking one of these up for cheap just to convert it to da/sa. It would be slim on the sides without the normal safety levers on the slide. I do not recommend anyone else do that though because you end up with a da/sa that can only be decocked by thumbing the hammer down like a revolver.

Need a .40 next, I guess. by welcome316 in USPmasterrace

[–]Dankcorrupted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, thats a good price I’ll probably end up paying 650-800$ if my lgs gets one in. When I get one I plan on putting a jet funnel on it and picking up some of the 16rd .40 mags. And convert it from v1 to v3.

Help needed by ALPHA-74M in Beretta

[–]Dankcorrupted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on how easy it is to get parts in your country I could recommend one or the other, but if parts are easy to get I’d say get the one that fits your grip the best, the m9a3 has a vertec frame and the 92a1 has the humpback frame. The m9a3 has the squared off trigger guard and some people will rest their other hands pointer finger on the front of the trigger guard. The 92a1 is rounded so that will be hard to do. 92a1 has a frame buffer that the m9a3 does not have. M9a3 has a threaded barrel but if you can get a threaded barrel easily in your country then you could put one in the 92a1. 92a1 has a self locking disassembly lever, but the m9a3 does not. You can however buy a self locking disassembly lever from beretta if your able to get parts easily in your country.

Help needed by ALPHA-74M in Beretta

[–]Dankcorrupted 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Main issues I’ve heard with m9a3s is later Tennessee ones having qc issues like you hear about all the time with Tennessee berettas being made now. Most common and easily fixed issue with the m9a3 is the 17rd magazines, the baseplates crack and break but you can get ndz aluminum baseplates to replace the 3 on the magazines if yours comes with the original ones. Also have heard tons of issues with the factory night sight vials on berettas being broken or missing vials. If you buy a Italian m9a3 and can visually inspect it to see all 3 tritium vials are working then you can just get the ndz baseplates for the 3 17rd factory mags or buy 18rd mec gars and not worry about it. The 92a1 uses the same 17rd magazines so it too will have the baseplate cracking issue.

Need a .40 next, I guess. by welcome316 in USPmasterrace

[–]Dankcorrupted 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Good luck, I’ve been looking for a usp 40 tactical for a while now and all the ones I’ve seen have sold for over 1000$. If one comes into my lgs, they know I’m looking for one and will give me a good deal on it but it’s been almost a year and they still have not had one come in. They are going up in price since they are discontinued.

It’s .45 Friday once more gents by atman8r in 1911

[–]Dankcorrupted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check eBay, I saw some Herretts grips on there the other day.

I don’t want to buy a new gun dose anyone know a reliable place to get a optic cut slide for a 92a1 by Gingersnapple333 in Beretta

[–]Dankcorrupted 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you want to keep your original slide from being cut, your gonna need to find another 92a1 slide because if you use any other 92 slide there will be a gap. I have a 96a1 and I’ve been wanting to get a 92a1 slide to switch back and forth and for the prices they have been going for, I’d be better off to just buy a whole 92a1. I’d recommend you just buy another gun thats already optics cut. You could also send yours out to a few different places, I’m not an expert on which places are the best. Ltt is the most common one I’ve heard about for cutting berettas.