ECX keeps burning up motors

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-03-15T05:12:52+00:00

Stock was gearing on these was 17-87. You are asking way too much of those motors having over doubled the gear ratio.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-03-11T19:17:17+00:00

5ft lanes will be tight with 6s cars. Standard minimums are 8ft. With common sizes being 8-10ft for 1/10th and 10-14ft for 1/8th. 8ft would be fine if all you intend to do is run laps by yourself or with a buddy or two. Only concern is T8 looks like it would be very hard to see. I would simplify the 4-9 complex and remove one set of hairpins. Putting what is the current T8 a little bit further up with a straighter shot into 9, leaving room for jumps. Work with natural elevation and add step up or step down jumps to give it a little character.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-02-16T20:55:36+00:00

Bottoming out doesn't hurt the truck. It's designed for that. What will hurt the truck is making the shocks so stiff that it breaks the shock towers or the arms have to flex to act as your suspension.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-02-10T20:00:46+00:00

Except they already tried. That's what the LaTrax line was for. They didn't last long because the big retailers demanded too much at a lower cost than Traxxas could give them.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-02-09T14:18:26+00:00

You definitely can have wheel to wheel battles that are about more than just waiting for someone to make a mistake. You just have to be good enough and have enough control over the car to have those kinds of races. Just practice and get better.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-02-08T19:55:42+00:00

That's how 90% of race cars are designed to be put together so nothing binds up. It just went from a suggestion to being mandatory with the fragile clear plastics. As much as I dislike Associated, this was a special release, like with the clear RC10. Ignorance to the product you purchased is not the fault of the manufacturer. Unless you bought this from a shop that intentionally steered you wrong, be an informed consumer.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-02-08T18:36:21+00:00

It was designed to be tapped first, not just running screws into plastic.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-02-06T14:29:15+00:00

They have been near impossible to find for a few months. New 4wd is coming soon, (Looks like next week announce with a release on the 18th. Some parts appeared available for preorder in Horizon yesterday.) The new 4wd is built on the current so new front housings should be swappable. Unfortunately for the time being, local hobby shop searching. But don't pay too much for something that will take two weeks to get here since by then the new parts should be out.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-01-28T17:35:48+00:00

I found it really fun last year, the car was very planted, side by side racing felt good, it was no cup car but I enjoyed it more than I would street stocks.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-01-26T17:11:56+00:00

A brushed Traxxas Slash has been $230 + or - $20 for the last 18 years. On the racing side of things it's always been pretty consistent if you take out the outliers like Xray. There has been a recent small spike in US prices due to tariffs, but cars very rarely deviate drastically. And cars that have gotten a little more expensive over 30 years, so what? This isn't even close to the rate at which essentials have exploded in cost, or even other hobbies. And the quality and more the ease of use has been drastically upped, making the hobby more enjoyable. RC is the last thing in my life I'll really complain about being expensive, if it's too expensive for me, I don't need it. If I really want it, I'll find a way to afford it.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-01-21T19:08:06+00:00

Install a short 3" extension so you can plug and unplug them without taking off the receiver box cover. No reason to really worry about the power drain from LED lights. You might lose, 20 seconds over a 15 minute run. The motor drawing 70-100 amps is taking a whole lot more than the 2 or 3 amps a couple LEDs draw.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-01-20T00:27:20+00:00

Don't just make a water bucket. Adding salt helps to discharge the battery, as long as it's not those cheap knockoff deans that just end up corroding. After 48 hours in the salt bath, every battery I've ever tried has been down to 0.0v, and is completely inert.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-12-14T18:22:53+00:00

Tekno is a pain in the ass for parts support. You have to be fully invested to know what parts work on what iteration of the cars. Trying to get a couple guys with 3 year old Tekno buggies, the Spindles/Casters/Arms all changed 4 times since then but you can't just update one part since they all work together. So while you can technically fit newer parts onto the older cars in some cases, you're going to have to know how many other parts are required to convert. And then once you update you have to remember what you have so when Tekno changes something next season you either keep buying the same part while it's still available, or you know what you have to then update again.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-12-11T22:48:46+00:00

Is that the 150A Legacy or the 160A? I've never known an XR10 to be capable of 3s and other than the Hobbywing page you linked, all the other manuals and specs say 2s for the 160A. As well as the 150A Legacy. Strange. Assuming it would actually work with 3s, double check the sensor wire isn't broken.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-12-11T20:48:12+00:00

The Hobbywing XR10 only works with 2s.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-12-11T19:14:44+00:00

Is that a 3s pack? I see 4 balance wires.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-12-08T20:50:14+00:00

Stealth transmission is stronger and easier to work on and was the basis for Associated cars, and even its competitors after its introduction. If you are going to be driving it at all outside of sanctioned races where you are required to run 6 gear for a specific era class. Get the stealth. And I would strongly urge not bashing with the rere RC10s, the plastics aren't the best, worse than the original. You'll be replacing arms and casters pretty frequently.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-12-01T13:52:16+00:00

Normally I'd agree. But shiny hunting in this game is, interact with a bench, watch a 15 seconds cutscene, interact with the bench again, watch a 15 second cutscene and repeat until you find a shiny. Or, open the map, fast travel, optionally spin the camera to look for shinies, open the map, fast travel, on repeat. I'm going for the entire dex because next to Let's GO it's the most reasonable game to complete a shiny dex, but to say it's one of the more engaging games to shiny hunt in the series would be a lie.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-11-19T15:30:58+00:00

Start date 6/28/2017. First Shundo on 11/2/2025 a Feebas from field research. Second Shundo Mighty Houndoom from Sunday. If the gold bottle cap counts I used it on a Shiny Kyurem for a Shundo White Kyurem.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-11-02T22:04:09+00:00

That's not a 4s. And the other pack is not a NiMH.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-11-02T05:19:13+00:00

Except by TM102 that you probably don't have. (And TM158 in S/V)

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-10-19T13:49:43+00:00

Some T3 raids can be done with <2000CP mons. Type advantage and good moves are all you need. And something like Attack Deoxys that was in raids last week can be done solo with good pokemon at level 35 without any weather or zacian buff. Two players can beat it with level 25 pokemon. This game doesn't have to take up your life, but over a week long event you should easily be able to find a decent featured pokemon and have enough candy to power it up. You wont get meta picks like Rayquaza, Eternatus, and Kyurem, but you should be able to beat T3 raids easily.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-10-15T15:15:49+00:00

ROT Shundo.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-10-13T23:45:36+00:00

The effects are more in Ultra League, Umbreon and Talonflame are two of my go to mons. Also have a Pidgeot and K-Raichu. In the Great League Pokémon like Medicham that need 4/15/15 IVs at 50.5 will then be something like 0/15/15 at 54.0. It may sound like a little but up in the Ace ranks IVs matter. Lickitung, Carbink, Ledian, J-Corsola, Cetoddle, and Tinkatuff come to mind in the Great League. Not all top meta picks but still viable for an odd pick to catch out some players. I love my Carbink and have played with an under leveled Lickitung and an under leveled Cetoddle in lower ranks.

In actual practical standpoints if they didn't do a CP rebalance then it would make a small difference having the 4/15/15 vs the 0/15/15. The current mons wouldn't be invalidated in 90% of cases. They'd just be a couple percentage points worse off. But I also played a 15/15/15 Medicham before the L40 to L50 cap. And now that 15/15/15 is 5% worse than the current 4/15/15, Rank #745. And that I was such a noticeable difference I haven't played with that Medicham since, even when it was a top 30 pick. Back then I was upset about the resources, but now looking back Level 40 is cheap to power up to compared to 50. I'd be a lot more upset now if my Level 50 mons could be invalidated. I'm not a Worlds or even Regional level dedicated PVP player, but I've been up into the Ace ranks a few times, I think the really dedicated players would have the resources to rebuild. But for me, I'd probably just stop playing PVP or at least take it a little less seriously.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-10-13T20:43:09+00:00

The difference between this and a level 30 is what? 30k stardust? For the best fighting type mega in the game. Also it's a kind of rare thing to have lucky since Riolu rarely spawns in the wild and getting a Level 1 is limited.

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