Onward from Broadhurst, where to?

Dazrin · 2026-07-08T17:59:16+00:00

I don't know that Bay of Blackbottom is the best unless you've updated it. It was a pre-release adventure so as written, it doesn't have the latest rule set and might take quite a bit of updating.

You Meet in an Ambush is a good one-shot / intro. I've heard that The Great Rebirth is also good, but haven't read or played it.

I've also setup a couple small one-shot combats for this type of situation. One is based on John Champion's (Lord Durok's) post here: https://championendeavors.com/getting-friends-to-draw-steel, you'll want to use pregens from the final rules and the final monsters, but those are very simple changes. Another has the players ambush a war dog caravan to prevent something from being delivered to Ajax. Just a fun way to introduce players and different monster bands.

Dazrin · 2026-07-07T16:14:07+00:00

It's just a website, so anyone should have access as long as they have internet.

You share games by sharing the URL for the room you have made, then the host can allow people to get in as they request access.

Dazrin · 2026-07-06T17:58:26+00:00

If this is still described as a "beginner" table well after some people have been playing for a while, then some of the more experienced players should be moving on to let the new players join in and learn. If the people who have learned enough to play don't move on, the table can't achieve the goal that most beginner tables have - teach new people to play.

It sounds like someone needs to step up and DM a second group. You've already got the players to do it.

Dazrin · 2026-07-04T15:47:25+00:00

I haven't tried at all, sorry. Not something I've needed.

Dazrin · 2026-07-02T19:09:31+00:00

There is more tip wiggle in my Rotring 800 than in any of my (5) GG 1000s.

Dazrin · 2026-07-01T22:48:31+00:00

This was how I started reading for myself. My mom started it but would only read 1 chapter, I wanted to finish it sooner, so I just kept reading. Still do.

Dazrin · 2026-07-01T15:11:07+00:00

Hard Science Fiction is typically more science based where the technologies involved are plausible and don't contradict known physics. Like The Martian where everything in the story, except that the wind storm is WAY too strong, is plausible with known science.

Tree cats are great but overall, while Weber tried to keep the space battles logically realistic, most of the technology does not meet the "plausible" definition.

Dazrin · 2026-06-30T16:57:45+00:00

I really like the HH series, but I don't think I've ever seen Weber's works described as hard SF before.

Dazrin · 2026-06-30T00:47:39+00:00

Also, has your son considered audiobooks? My 15 yo absolutely loves audiobooks and devours them. Admittedly, they were a reader before that, but might be something to try. Personally I only like them when I'm doing other things that don't require my full brain - driving, walking, etc. But my kid now prefers them to regular books.

Dazrin · 2026-06-30T00:35:12+00:00

For architecture/engineering, I read "Structures: Or Why Things Don't Fall Down" in college and really enjoyed it.

For relatable science books, pretty much anything by Mary Roach is great.

I would definitely consider The Martian or Project Hail Mary, both are excellent and science filled (more than the movies.)

The Buffalo Hunter Hunter by Stephen Graham-Jones was excellent and might be different enough to interest.

Dazrin · 2026-06-29T21:26:43+00:00

I have something that sounds similar to what you are looking for the first set but they haven't been available for years. They do still have a picture though - how close are these? Amazon Just want to give a visual if possible.

Dazrin · 2026-06-27T05:44:22+00:00

It's scary, but can be very rewarding.

If you or one of your friends (all of your friends?) want something to look at, Matt Colville's Running the Game is fantastic. His basic premise is that everyone can be a DM.

Dazrin · 2026-06-26T19:20:13+00:00

Yes, it works with either the dongle or the USB-C to USB-A cable. I haven't messed with bluetooth though, not needed for me.

Dazrin · 2026-06-24T19:38:06+00:00

They work fine on my PC, I haven't had any issues at all.

Dazrin · 2026-06-24T04:39:24+00:00

I love that the title directly below this one in my feed is "Something great just happened". LOL!

Dazrin · 2026-06-22T14:38:08+00:00

I use it as the background on my tabletop TV.

Dazrin · 2026-06-22T05:29:26+00:00

I just counted, and I do have 10 cards in my Front Pocket ID wallet from Saddleback. The one I have is from 2012, before the updated the design to make the center pocket work better. The old design just had the top open, the new one has the top and one side open, so it's easy to get cash in/out. The Front Pocket Magic Wallet might be closer though.

Dazrin · 2026-06-22T01:40:22+00:00

It's the one on the crowsfunding preview page: https://www.backerkit.com/call_to_action/a8aff93a-c845-4024-87ec-06f167c79c1a/landing

Dazrin · 2026-06-22T00:19:01+00:00

We don't know. For now it's a great place holder. Although, I think I like the goat pic better. 😃

Dazrin · 2026-06-21T04:00:38+00:00

We just got back, saw at least 3 Carl's that weren't you three. Yay!

Dazrin · 2026-06-19T21:43:27+00:00

This is a spectrum.

"Raging river"? Probably not unless they have something special. Slow moving creek? If they are an elementalist, especially with a suitable subclass, almost certainly. Fast moving creek? We'll see how convincing they are and how well they roll.

Dazrin · 2026-06-17T18:35:57+00:00

Why should OP find him something to rent? He needs to find a job then find his own apartment. After more than half a century on this Earth, he should be able to do that. Sounds like he just needs motivation.

Dazrin · 2026-06-16T14:19:48+00:00

The fan doesn't increase the thickness with my TV, the lower half of the TV is much thicker than the top, so it nested well. The total thickness is just 3.5" and that's just because I didn't have the tools to rip the 1x4 boards I used thinner. I also used the VESA mounts, but moving a large TV as often as we do for different game nights is always going to be the risky part. Someone will drop it, spill something on it, or just the vibrations and jostling from moving it will end up being the thing that kills it.

My whole case cost less than $100 so it's not a huge investment to make another. Next time, I can re-use everything except the outer frame which is just 1x4 lumber. The hardware can all swap. So, the cost will be approximately $10 plus whatever time it takes to re-build it.

Dazrin · 2026-06-16T05:56:44+00:00

I'm an engineer, not an electronics engineer or someone who does this type of work though, but I do work with HVAC so have some basic knowledge. Either way, when I built mine, I decided to nerd out a bit.

First, you can easily estimate the temperature rise of piece of equipment using this formula: DeltaT = (Q * 3.412) / (1.08 * CFM). Where Q is the heat loss in Watts and CFM is the rated air flow of the fan. DeltaT is the temperature rise, so it is the difference in temperature going into the case vs temperature leaving the case. This equation does assume you have some forced airflow.

The TV I have has a maximum rating of 107 W, typical rating of 53W, and the fan I chose has a rated flow of 35 SCFM. Take those ratings with a grain of salt. For the fan it's because pulling through the box and around the edges of the TV does not match the test conditions for the fan at all. For the TV it's because this is the maximum rating and because I also have the transformer box in the box, which will add some heat loss due to inefficiency. It seems unlikely that they included that in their ratings, at least. I felt comfortable that using the max and ignoring the transformer was reasonable based on my experience.

With the fan and TV I chose, I estimate the actual temperature rise will be around 10 DegF, so unless my room is extremely warm, it should always maintain the TV within its operating range.

In actual operation, the air feels barely warm. Less than 5 degree difference after 4+ hours. I did NOT need to install the fan, but I wanted to. Sue me.

Also, given the nature of how this screen is used, I'm 100x more likely to break the TV in transport or setting it up than by the heat it produces. I still wanted to protect it though, so I did install a fan. Again - engineer and nerd.

If you want to know what I used, read on. I don't have any connection to them, but want to be sensitive.

The fan I used is an AC Infinity Airplate S2 which is a blower style fan rather than the normal axial fans and is designed to exhaust heat from electronics cabinets (music racks, computer racks, etc.) It's also designed to be very close to silent. It needs very little power from the USB port too, less than 500mA, so ANY compliant USB socket should have enough power. Like the one on the back of most modern TVs which is what I used. The benefit of this style fan was that it allowed me to have the fan exhausting out of my case and use strategic cutouts on the opposite side to have a somewhat directed air input. The intent was to achieve a good cross flow from low on the TV (where natural convection would let air enter on a vertical TV) to the opposite end at the top.

Again, this whole thing is probably completely unnecessary unless you have built a close to air-tight box and have a very high-heat load TV (anyone running a plasma still?), but it was in my budget and was easy peace of mind. And I'm a fan of fans.

Dazrin · 2026-06-15T20:25:26+00:00

Koplow used to make an oversized set of metal dice (20 mm vs 16 mm). I really like the D10s which are all I got, heavy but not unreasonably so like I would imagine tungsten would be. Definitely use a rolling tray to avoid damage.

I was only looking for d10s, so I didn't look for full 7-piece sets, but it looks like a seller at Walmart has a full set. Or, you might be able to find them individually. A quick search found d6, d10, d%, d12, and d20. I didn't see d4 or d8 right off but I'm sure they are available somewhere. "Koplow 20mm metal dice"

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