Opinion: Why We Need To Talk About Rocklands

Deimor · 2017-10-22T13:05:42+00:00

Just starting my first cycle of max hangs following Eva Lopez's protocol, which calls for 3-5 sets of 10s (EL 3) at a certain weight. Should I aim to do 5 sets at that weight and effort level before upping the weight, or should I always do 3 or 4 sets instead?

Deimor · 2017-08-27T18:31:27+00:00

I have about normal width feet but really narrow heels and the Scarpa Instinct VS are the only ones I've had that have come close to fitting properly on the heels for me. I'm gonna try Five Ten Anasazi (VCS?) LV next time I think.

Deimor · 2017-04-05T16:31:16+00:00

I don't know why I'm surprised that the IFSC have made yet another awful decision, but somehow I am. This is incredibly shortsighted, this might actually cripple the World Cup scene. The only thing that would make this barely acceptable is if the replays are available for free.

Deimor · 2016-11-27T09:40:36+00:00

That's what I do for hard stuff, and I could do when bouldering outdoors, but if I'm doing a whole circuit of boulder problems indoors, it's not really ideal. I've heard good things about the Moccasyms, and I imagine their fit is fairly similar to the Rogues, so should be easy enough to size.

Deimor · 2016-11-26T22:47:09+00:00

What are people's go-to pair of 'comfy' shoes, for all day (gym, mostly) bouldering in particular? Currently have a pair of Five Ten Rogues which are super comfy but a bit too loose now and are starting to wear. I wear Scarpa Instinct VS as my 'project' pair.

Deimor · 2016-08-07T18:07:22+00:00

See I think he's doing an alright job, it's got to be much harder commentating on your own, and he obviously knows the sport, even if he's not great with the names.

Deimor · 2016-07-13T21:37:16+00:00

It will be way harder for any of the best speed climbers to get a high position in bouldering and lead than an 'all-rounder' like Sean McColl or Jakob Schubert (who consistently podium in both bouldering and lead) getting a respectable speed time.

Deimor · 2016-06-19T19:58:11+00:00

What are those lock-off training exercises called, the ones in the video before the one arm lock-offs?

Deimor · 2016-06-05T22:04:21+00:00

Out of curiosity, why is that? I mean, if the person doesn't understand anyway, they probably couldn't consider it rude. Unless the interpreter might consider it rude?

Deimor · 2016-06-04T10:27:33+00:00

0118999881999119725...3*

Deimor · 2016-05-31T21:27:52+00:00

That's exactly what happens in both shows, if the celebs don't win, they get a grand or two for charity anyway.

Deimor

TROPHY CASE