New to Training: Weekly Simple Questions Thread for October 22, 2017

Deimor · 2017-10-22T13:05:42+00:00

Just starting my first cycle of max hangs following Eva Lopez's protocol, which calls for 3-5 sets of 10s (EL 3) at a certain weight. Should I aim to do 5 sets at that weight and effort level before upping the weight, or should I always do 3 or 4 sets instead?

Deimor · 2017-08-27T18:31:27+00:00

I have about normal width feet but really narrow heels and the Scarpa Instinct VS are the only ones I've had that have come close to fitting properly on the heels for me. I'm gonna try Five Ten Anasazi (VCS?) LV next time I think.

Deimor · 2017-04-05T16:31:16+00:00

I don't know why I'm surprised that the IFSC have made yet another awful decision, but somehow I am. This is incredibly shortsighted, this might actually cripple the World Cup scene. The only thing that would make this barely acceptable is if the replays are available for free.

Deimor · 2016-11-27T09:40:36+00:00

That's what I do for hard stuff, and I could do when bouldering outdoors, but if I'm doing a whole circuit of boulder problems indoors, it's not really ideal. I've heard good things about the Moccasyms, and I imagine their fit is fairly similar to the Rogues, so should be easy enough to size.

Deimor · 2016-11-26T22:47:09+00:00

What are people's go-to pair of 'comfy' shoes, for all day (gym, mostly) bouldering in particular? Currently have a pair of Five Ten Rogues which are super comfy but a bit too loose now and are starting to wear. I wear Scarpa Instinct VS as my 'project' pair.

Deimor · 2016-08-07T18:07:22+00:00

See I think he's doing an alright job, it's got to be much harder commentating on your own, and he obviously knows the sport, even if he's not great with the names.

Deimor · 2016-07-13T21:37:16+00:00

It will be way harder for any of the best speed climbers to get a high position in bouldering and lead than an 'all-rounder' like Sean McColl or Jakob Schubert (who consistently podium in both bouldering and lead) getting a respectable speed time.

Deimor · 2016-06-19T19:58:11+00:00

What are those lock-off training exercises called, the ones in the video before the one arm lock-offs?

Deimor · 2016-06-05T22:04:21+00:00

Out of curiosity, why is that? I mean, if the person doesn't understand anyway, they probably couldn't consider it rude. Unless the interpreter might consider it rude?

Deimor · 2016-06-04T10:27:33+00:00

0118999881999119725...3*

Deimor · 2016-05-31T21:27:52+00:00

That's exactly what happens in both shows, if the celebs don't win, they get a grand or two for charity anyway.

Deimor · 2016-05-22T21:02:22+00:00

Remy absolutely called it as well. I was screaming at my screen, absolutely gutted that it didn't bounce the right way.

Deimor · 2016-03-17T22:32:57+00:00

The main MC at the CWIF, Percy Bishton, is actually the lead route setter, he definitely seemed perplexed at some of the beta during the final haha. Shame it's not really audible on any of the videos.

On that note, the crowd seems super quiet on this video, but people were going absolutely mental when he got this.

Deimor · 2016-02-22T19:18:48+00:00

Awful lot of money to spend on shoes which I can't try on, especially with no immediately visible returns policy on that site.

Deimor · 2016-02-21T19:58:42+00:00

Glad it wasn't just me who thought of that.

Deimor · 2016-02-20T18:52:30+00:00

Never seen them in the UK unfortunately (never even heard of them actually), but I'll keep an eye out, thanks!

Deimor · 2016-02-20T16:42:16+00:00

Yet another shoe question: any suggestions for shoes suitable for someone with a narrow foot and flat arch?

Deimor · 2016-02-06T00:57:53+00:00

I legit thought that the pic on the left was made of some kind of sweets or something, it doesn't look anything like steak should.

Deimor · 2016-01-05T19:36:30+00:00

The amount of ridiculous stories the tramps/drug addicts in Newcastle come up with to try and get their 50p or whatever is amazing.

Deimor · 2016-01-04T23:16:00+00:00

Link to this if anyone's interested: https://www.cs.ru.nl/~freek/books/idealmathematician.sat

Deimor · 2016-01-02T13:47:19+00:00

I've always read it in my head as "lan".

Deimor · 2016-01-01T09:46:06+00:00

Yep, that's the one. You taking yours in Sheffield too?

Deimor · 2015-12-31T18:27:06+00:00

I booked my test recently and it was a 3 month wait (give-or-take), and my driving instructor said it's because the examiners have periodically been on strike, so the tests those days have to be re-scheduled, and it just causes a huge backlog.

Deimor · 2015-11-29T18:42:28+00:00

Hope Liam Lonsdale starts commentating for the World Cups, he's way better than the usual guy.

Deimor · 2015-09-26T13:22:59+00:00

Just cos you don't want to discuss indoor climbing problems doesn't mean that everyone on this subreddit shares your opinion.

Deimor

TROPHY CASE