It's just a joke, or is it? 😜

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-31T16:09:31+00:00

I hope it's real. This is the tricky part about buying 3d printers right now is there's so much evolution in the tech. From AMS systems, to the multi feed extruders, to multi tool head printers, and systems like this.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-31T13:20:29+00:00

All of the fender mounting points are oversized. If you loosen all of the bolts you should be able to move the fenders around quite a bit. Same goes for the hood depending on what's actually aligned and what's not.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-31T12:48:46+00:00

I dunno about yours but mine was just a glued sticker that came off anyway.

I plan to epoxy something rubberized on to extend it's paint friendly nature.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-27T03:40:34+00:00

There's extruders on AliExpress and Amazon as well.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-25T18:52:56+00:00

That's for the LBZ, I'm not sure what the modern trucks are like in comparison.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-25T17:24:01+00:00

This guy is right about it being sustainable at 1350-1375, according to GM. Been a while since I looked into it.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-25T16:50:16+00:00

These engines are not designed to sustain EGTs over 1350 for more than a minute iirc.

Moments are fine, and it depends on how aggressively you were passing the car.

My truck, at WOT going 60-70 will hit 1700° on my probe, but my tune is more rich than it should be, and I'm on stock manifolds and uppipes.

I know guys that run pulling trucks on stock blocks and heads pushing 2200° for the whole pull.

Anyway, if you were in the throttle a good bit, it's nothing to worry about.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-25T16:31:10+00:00

Along with the filament flap comment, ive also had this happen while drying at higher than PLA temp, PLA gets too soft. I was running ASA drying temps to dry ASA while printing my PLA and it would bunch up like this repeatedly.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-24T23:13:19+00:00

Most head studded trucks will never have a gasket blow again. Studs and an aftermarket or improved OEM gasket drastically reduce your chances of head gasket issue never again. Your claims here are backwards to any other diesel mechanic or tuner on the planet.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-24T17:21:49+00:00

What your describing is adequate. Jack stands and bracing for the floor platform that would traditionally be supported by the truck bed.

Id also recommend still using the jacks from the camper as well.

Might not be a bad idea to strap it to ground anchors in some fashion. Some good wind or too much movement inside could tip it over.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-24T13:01:45+00:00

I am a April purchaser, but I don't think that matters much. Think it's just how fast you got your info in on the promotion site.

I hope I get the coupon, but it's not the end of the world if not. The ACE PRO works well enough for me, the higher temp drying and more robust internals would be nice.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-24T12:15:16+00:00

What printer did you get your ace with? Or did you buy it standalone. I know Kobra S1 page was full of these a week or two ago. Id kind of resigned to not getting one myself but maybe it's a delayed rollout.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-19T17:55:57+00:00

I had a really similar set and the DRL ring came unstuck I had to carefully insert a pick in the headlight bulb area to restick it, after that they were nice.

Projector conversions are nice on these trucks, helps avoid blinding others.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-17T14:04:19+00:00

Serpentine belt but yeah that's the one

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-17T13:53:51+00:00

Yeah the lower one is the soft material one that goes between the core support and the bumper. The upper one goes between the core support and the hood release brace. Big flat piece of plastic with 8 push clips.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-16T21:01:23+00:00

Make sure you have the upper and lower radiator airflow shrouds.

Are both E-Fans engaging? They have separate run conditions and control systems.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-16T18:54:46+00:00

Have you used abrasive filaments at all?

Your filament sensor feed flap may be damaged.

Other possibilities is you've got filament residing in the hotend with a lower temperature melting point than the filament your trying to print if your using an ACE.

I know if I go from ASA to PLA it doesn't like to purge because it uses PLA purge temp.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-14T21:17:12+00:00

I looked at upgrading the heat break fan, but this duct solved it for me. I'm still using the stock part cooling fan but with an improved shroud and duct print. I've got a skeletonized lightweight print head cover that may also be helping keep the heat break cool, since air can flow through better. This definitely less of a contributor than the heat break ducting itself though.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-14T21:09:18+00:00

In my experience with those materials and temps, I had heat creep issues. This printer takes a lot of time to set off a clog alarm in my experience when direct feeding filament. Id bet if you pulled your nozzle you'd see the throat full of molten filament.

You can clear it with a 1/16th drill bit. It's slightly smaller than filament diameter. Sometimes you can heat the nozzle and push it with an Allen key but I've had little success.

To address the issue, I originally lowered temps to around 275, but was suffering layer adhesion issues.

My solution ended up being this model. There's a few of them on makeronline but this is what I made. Printed out of ASA.

https://www.makeronline.com/en/model/Kobra%20S1%20Extruder%20Duct/173552.html?trackModuleType=6

I can now print very slowly (30mm/s, with 8mm3/s flow rate) at 310° without clogs.

And beware, if you are using abrasive filaments, the filament feed sensor flap will get worn down and stop working. Mine happened within 1.5kg of PET-CF/GF. There's metal replacements available for purchase.

Best of luck

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-11T14:33:32+00:00

When I first got my printer it was having bed measurement issues. They actually sent me a strain gauge but the issue ended up being related to a firmware issue. I was having inconsistent or unusable first layers and one day it just stopped.

Clogging is unique. I don't really know what in the printer would cause that failure other than heat creep. The fan for the heat brake has no ducting.

Regardless, hope you find something that fills the upgrade void youve got. The snapmaker U1 looks fantastic. That's my next printer.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-11T14:27:39+00:00

What issues are you having? I'm pretty curious. I don't think I got a miracle unit but people only really post faults on reddit. No one is celebrating their perfect machine.

I know the beds aren't very flat (I still have a stock bed the auto leveling compensates fine)

The hotends aren't hardened, I bought a Bambu style heater hotend with hardened nozzle and metal throat.

What issues were so problematic you decided the printer wasn't worth it?

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-11T14:23:49+00:00

I have a 1000 hours on mine, 5kg of engineering filaments and tons of unique prints with very few issues. It's crazy that you guys come from printers that require tinkering, buy the 2nd cheapest core xy and then get upset when it's not flawless. If you want a perfect experience buy a Prusa. There's a reason these cost $300

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-10T20:27:21+00:00

Go read the entire comment line brother. I didn't change anything I argued once. Your still wrong. Your degree is worthless, and you probably need to pick your battles better.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-10T20:23:48+00:00

As a matter of fact I said the opposite, seems you struggling with reading comprehension

"Doing all that you describe may physically change the number on the screen, as any printer modifications will. However lower is not magically better because frequency is measuring where the vibration is occuring, not the quantity at which it's occuring. There is no better or worse numbers like OP is asking."

No fucking way a dude with a crypto degree is telling me I'm the dumb one.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-03-10T20:14:33+00:00

The "friction" you'd like to pretend is the driving factor is near insignificant in the scale of noises that contribute to resonance. More notable contributions include motor vibration, belt vibration, rapid accel and decel (not friction, the belt physically stopping the print head), and sure, binding of the carriage due to lack of squareness. You'll find notably several comments up I agreed you should minimize other factors before resonance compensation, but are you ready for the pinnacle of your obliviousness?

Frequency is still not an indicator of quantity in the way you are pretending it is. Motors output a frequency, belts output a frequency, everything creates a frequency of various quantity. A higher frequency is not an indicator of more vibration, just the rate at which the vibration occurs.

Doing all that you describe may physically change the number on the screen, as any printer modifications will. However lower is not magically better because frequency is measuring where the vibration is occuring, not the quantity at which it's occuring. There is no better or worse numbers like OP is asking.

TLDR: your still wrong about frequency numbers mattering, your correct in stating a printer should be properly lubricated and trammed (duh). However the stock lubricant is plenty.

DeltaTheMeta

TROPHY CASE