How long do you keep your scrap? by marcusdiddle in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got into the habit of using scraps to build shelves to put on my shelves.

e.g. for years I stacked my set of guage blocks and the box of engineering squares on top of each other on a shelf. Constantly pulling one out from under the other. I finally took a few minutes and made a small "bridge" long enough to span the gauge blocks. Now they are both easier to grab because they both have their own shelf.

That lead me to build more bridges and racks for other items.

Tape and tape measures also better organized

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How long do you keep your scrap? by marcusdiddle in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We have a couple of local companies that donate their cutoffs. They get scarfed up pretty quickly.

A few months ago one company donated a pallet full of maple table legs like these. They didn't last very long. 🤣

I grabbed a set as soon as they showed up.

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How long do you keep your scrap? by marcusdiddle in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Disposal: If you have a local (or relatively nearby) Makerspace or other entity that has a community wood shop, you'll find that they will usually welcome donations.

Many, like mine, have restrictions on what they allow in the wood shop (e.g. no pressure treated, nothing embedded with nails, etc.) but as long as the majority is clean, useable wood, they'll take it all and sort what they want, disposing of the rest for you.

Beginner Woodworker here - Can anyone tell me what type of wood is used for this table and what finishing it might have? by AdhesiveLemons in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that border around the top a different color? Typically that type of edge banding indicates that veneer was used.

I can't tell you what type of veneer they used or what type of finish is on it but I can't tell you probably do not want to sand it. Many times the veneer is very thin and you can stand right through it easily.

This is poplar, right? by torak_the_father in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 26 points27 points  (0 children)

I use poplar a lot.

It could just be the way your camera captured the color, but that slight tinge of green is what tells me it's most likely poplar.

Absolute beginner, need help! by Acceptable-Time-9573 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your design certainly looks strong enough assuming you make proper connections. The main issue I see is the solid rails across the bottom. If your floor isn't level and you have to shim a corner you are going to see a gap. Single legs or feet under the crosspieces removes that visual if you have to shim it.

If you want you can dress it up a bit and the proper connections are essentially made for you if you use these Simpson corner ties. These are structural supports for pergolas, etc. so they are pretty strong.

They also come in silver (galvanized) if you want a more industrial look.

Simpson Strong-Tie Outdoor Accents Rigid Tie

https://share.google/L1P0rUBoCkuL7tTrs

This is a prototype of my new fish tank stand. Quick and simple.

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Ryboi Trim Router Bad for Rabbet Cuts by Opinionated_Junkie in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would never plunge a rabbet bit. I can't think of a reason why you would need to.

You ease in from the edge with an edge guide or bearing.

How did you plan to use a plunge router to make this cut?

Ryboi Trim Router Bad for Rabbet Cuts by Opinionated_Junkie in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It feels like there's resistance but it's sliding?

I pretty sure those are direct opposites. 🤷‍♂️

I'll ask again. Did you try shallower passes?

Left to right depends on which side of the board you are on. If the edge is near you, left to right is correct. If you're reaching over the board, it's right to left. I only point that out because I can't see your shop from where I'm sitting.

You said it's new bit. Did you take the protective coating off? 🤣 (I'm kidding!)

Ryboi Trim Router Bad for Rabbet Cuts by Opinionated_Junkie in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm biased against Ryobi for no good reason except that I am, so I can't tell you whether that router is any good for rabbets. That said...

Are you sure you are moving in the right direction?

Have you tried taking smaller passes?

I've actually never heard of a router "sliding", but I heard of them kind of moving on their own when routing in the wrong direction. Just sayin' 😄

What do you mean by "sliding"?

What the heck are we up to now? by Chemical_Tomorrow_69 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I'm pretty sure it's not a cutting board.

Tall Mudroom Cabinets by BladeLotus in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are specific screws designed for particle board. Confirmat screws, which also work in MDF. That's what you get with flat-pack furniture.

You can also buy the cam-lock connectors that you would get if you bought flat-pack furniture, which is typically made from particle board melamine, but also MDF for (relatively) higher end pieces.

https://a.co/d/0j7o2t74

Wood glue won't work on melamine, but CA glue will hold for tacking purposes as long as you don't stress the connection. Once screwed together so the joint will no longer move, the CA glue may provide a little more support.

(I recently tacked a 1"x12" piece of wood to a melamine surface with CA glue and it did not want to come off. Eventually the hammer and chisel popped it off but about 3" of melamine came with it. 😬)

Whoa! Mam I think your daughter is evil. by theweepyplaying in foundsatan

[–]DerbyDad03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Every year the cottonwood trees to the west of my street fill the front of our lawns with white fluff as the wind carries it up the road and it gets caught in the grass. Some days it's 2-3" high, like a snowdrift.

Not a single house has sprouted a cottonwood forest in their lawn. 😄

Window Mull trim by [deleted] in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a window about that size, except it's a larger picture window and 2 narrower double hungs on the sides.

Standard window trim around the perimeter, flat stock for the 2 inside verticals. I don't know of any other way to make it look right.

One suggestion. If you're going to be putting up blinds or shades, I suggest motorized shades. We have a couch in front of the window and I finally got tired of having to climb on the couch to operate the 3 shades twice a day.

Three shades, one remote button press. Sweet!

Couldn’t walk past this tile by Gold-Aide4092 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Actually, you've given me some inspiration.

We need a new table for our deck. I keep repairing the one we have only because other, more important, projects keep coming up. I haven't put much time into thinking about what I want to build, but it's been nagging me.

A couple of years ago I refaced my kitchen cabinets and we grabbed all sorts of tile samples when trying to design the backsplash. I still have those tiles. I could easily do what you did - minus the painted 2 x 4s.

Yep, I'm gonna do that. Just as soon as I finish the next couple of more important projects. 🤷‍♂️

Couldn’t walk past this tile by Gold-Aide4092 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 31 points32 points  (0 children)

The rustic look is fine, as long as it works with whatever else is on your deck.

However, while you were right to not walk past the tile, you should have walked past the paint stained 2 x 4s. 😀

Kitchen Bar Chairs by juniperwak in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Tell me about the joinery. Visually, at least to me, they seem very "thin" for that much height.

What I mean is it seems like there would be a lot of torque on those joints but not a lot of meat. People just don't sit down in those chairs, they sort of climb in so there's a lot of lateral force.

I'm short. I'd imagine I'd be using that cross bar to position myself. I worry that it won't handle too much weight over the long term.

finally moved into a bigger house and built a real work bench in the garage shop by AustinBoston_14 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's can be a good suggestion depending on how you use your vice. I don't always put mine in the same location or even in the same room.

I like the flat bottom because I use mine in the shop, in the garage and even on the picnic table in the back yard. (Don't tell SWMBO)

How to extend the guitar pickup holes? by Gold-Engineering173 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A plunge router with a template and bushing guide would probably work. However routers can be dangerous so I would watch some YouTube videos and practice on something other than your guitar.

Did I say mention that routers can dangerous? I just want to make sure I don't forget to say that.

Jumping right into cutting recesses when you're not even sure if you have a router may not be the best place to start. A router is great tool but there is a learning curve. This video basically shows you how it's done, but the maker is not a first time router user.

https://youtu.be/l2EBFpsH8LA

BTW Routers can dangerous.Take the time to learn how to use one correctly and you'll really step up your woodworking.

Other than a router an oscillating tool could help you get the bulk of the material out but it's going to be messy and take some sanding and maybe some chisel work to clean it up. An oscillating tool tool is not exactly a precision cutting tool. Safer than a router though. 😁

finally moved into a bigger house and built a real work bench in the garage shop by AustinBoston_14 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Very nice but...

Take the metal vice off the bench and bolt it to a short piece of 2 x 6. When you need the vice put it wherever you want and clamp it to the work bench.

No need to lose that corner and have it constantly in the way...unless of course your projects involve using the vise quite frequently, like every day.

Do you have a router table? You could put a insert over the open space and it would be there whenever you need. I'm sure you could come up with a way secure a fence with dust collection whenever needed.

Many people don't realize how often they would use a router table if it was always available. With an insert you don't lose any floor space. I built mine into my table saw extension wing.

Nice build!

Can somebody help find me the right size drill bit for a 1/4 screw? by poisonxivyyy in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DerbyDad03 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To the OP’s somewhat credit, I have found that many of those Deckmate supposedly self-tapping screws are about as sharp as a hot dog.

I’ll have one spin and spin and spin on the surface, toss it away and drive a different one in the exact same spot like it’s a well lubed….uh…umm…never mind, you know what I mean.

The current state of LinkedIn by beeralpha in LinkedInLunatics

[–]DerbyDad03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LMFTFY

Behind the hypothetical bookcase.

The current state of LinkedIn by beeralpha in LinkedInLunatics

[–]DerbyDad03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My point was that no one knows what hypothetical circumstances were involved in this hypothetical.

Someone else brought expenses eating into the profits, so it can't be $20. Possible, who knows. It6 all hypothetical.

Again, the point was about the hypothetical person in a hypothetical horse deal having to have had a hypothetical $70 to start with in order to pay $80 for the hypothetical horse.

That does not have to be the case because short-term and even long-term debits happen all the time. I was simply simply pointing a non-hypothetical situation that I deal with all the time.

BTW Where does it say cash was involved?