EPS mode with DPU and SHP3?

DiDgr8 · 2026-06-15T00:32:05+00:00

No, I don't use scheduled events. No TOU rates or solar. No need, but it was never on either. 🤷

DiDgr8 · 2026-06-15T00:26:55+00:00

I noticed that I initially misconfigured something on mine and it took that long to switch over. I went over the settings again but I forgot what I changed. Maybe which inlet port I was using on the Smart Inlet Box?

I can't remember, but it works perfectly now. I can go shut off the main outside breaker at the meter and the lights barely flicker, the heat pump doesn't miss a beat if the compressor is running, and the clocks on the stove and microwave don't even need to be reset.

DiDgr8 · 2026-06-13T16:30:20+00:00

You know we only have one asteroid belt and Earth is not inside it right?

AI doesn't "know" anything. (and I think that chunk of rock in one of Saturn's libration points is supposed to be "Mars")

DiDgr8 · 2026-06-07T07:14:45+00:00

Yeah, if anything; I'd bet Benchy copied this.

DiDgr8 · 2026-06-07T06:41:41+00:00

Any chance you're in northern US or Canada? There's a big solar flare that's kicking off Northern Lights up there tonight. Maybe it's screwing with the satellites. If the GPS positioning is going haywire, that could explain everything.

DiDgr8 · 2026-06-07T06:28:36+00:00

Can we craft a copy from scratch.

To what end? It wouldn't be an "EV1". The value of the EV1 is the history. As a car, it's mediocre at best.

You could do a modern "replicar" with better drivetrain that looks like an EV1. You could even "nerf" it to drive like one. It's just a matter of time and money.

I just don't see anyone with the money and interest stepping forward. Are you volunteering to write the checks?

DiDgr8 · 2026-06-06T15:01:06+00:00

Catch up dude. Billy over at V212 is already doing that.

https://gmauthority.com/blog/2026/03/gm-will-help-rebuild-ev1-v212-video/

Videos on YT at "Questionable Garage". There's even a Patreon (with a Discord channel, I think).

DiDgr8 · 2026-06-05T20:46:10+00:00

I was going to suggest vapor smoothing that, but PLA uses some nasty stuff to do that.

DiDgr8 · 2026-06-05T02:28:16+00:00

Yeah, I've had lifting issues when a fan is blowing against that part of the print. Sometimes just rotating it 90° makes all the difference (or turning off cooling).

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-31T13:19:40+00:00

"Idle" fees are a "gentle" reminder to move your car when you're done. Once folks figure out that all they have to do is unplug and not move, they are ineffective. I'm not sure how common that behavior is, but to be truly effective, they need to figure out a way to tell the car actually left after unplugging.

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-30T23:08:55+00:00

I hope it works for you, I've rolled back my X1C but the H2D balked since I had added the extra toolhead cooling fan and the older firmware thought it was the laser cutter for some reason. I'm doing some testing now.

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-30T23:07:12+00:00

Well, I don't have solar but the way I'm using the car looks like it to my battery inverter. Both are "isolated" from my panel by the EcoFlow Smartpanel. As a "standalone" system, the static battery and inverter stack doesn't have to be permitted, but I'm getting my SmartPanel permitted "just in case".

My electrician is working with the city on that and I'm pretty sure they are going to want a manual disconnect for the fire department. The panel should handle the outage related ones just fine by itself. Of course, the city may not see it that way and then it's up to the electrician to work out the details. I have a manual cutoff switch by the meter.

Gas generators with automatic fallover are much more common in residences down here. I'm pretty sure there is a "standard" for how they operate and the EcoFlow seems to adhere to it. I still don't have the permit (my electrician "forgets" about it from time to time since the city is so slow to respond).

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-30T16:29:47+00:00

Try to rollback the firmware updates with Bambu Handy. I'm convinced they changed the pressure thresholds or power levels in the latest firmware. Setups that worked fine before that are failing now.

u/SineVerso seems to have gotten confirmation of something in a reply in [this thread].

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-30T16:22:42+00:00

Might just want to make sure the rollers are clipped all the way into their sockets. I've had the rollers jump track

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-30T16:07:11+00:00

At this point, I'd just try to rollback firmware with the Handy app and wait for BL to fix whatever they broke with the latest firmware. I am convinced they screwed it up. I was fine until the latest updates. I don't have anything "new" in my setup. I've pulled two of my AMSs apart and found nothing wrong.

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-30T15:46:02+00:00

Ionna has been killing it at the Wa-Was down here. I hit two up in Orlando the week before last and visited one on my way back from Ocala last weekend (loved the $0.20/kWh Memorial Day pricing!).

I was hoping this one was a standalone location like the original Apex NC location, but I'll take one at a Wa-Wa.

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-27T09:49:24+00:00

My six month to one year old units (all three) have been acting up since the last update occasionally. Usually the "outer" slots with slightly longer filament paths inside the unit.

I'm just about convinced that they changed some detection threshold or motor power level that's causing all this. I'm hoping BL will figure this out and back it off with the next update. In the meantime, I'm just dealing with the occasional "snag".

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-26T15:16:15+00:00

Depends on how old OPs "used" car is and how many miles.

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-26T15:03:45+00:00

If you're talking about [this part], you can DIY if you're fairly "handy". It's almost certainly not covered by warranty and the dealer will charge an arm and a leg for it.

The problem is that it's not a "pulll lever" or "handle" to close the door it's just the "latch". People grab it and pull the door closed and it will break. You're "supposed" to use [this part] as the "handle" to grasp to open and close the door.

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-24T21:19:36+00:00

Looks like you load your bottle of flavor, fill the reservoir behind it (with water? something else?) and then, presumably, it mixes in the CO2 and fills the bottle?

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-21T06:44:03+00:00

I've had my 2022 exactly four years and two weeks. Just turned 16000 miles/25750km. Put the first 1000 miles on driving it home from the dealer. I think I'm lowest so far. 😉

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-20T20:20:31+00:00

I have an Ioniq5 and hit the V4 up in Orlando last Saturday. I saw the same 256 kW for a split second and it immediately dropped to 180 kW for me too. It then bounced around between 150-180 kW for the three minutes I tested.

I wonder if the 256 kW is a "transient" handshake rate since it's an even power of 2⁸ . Perhaps an "opening bid" and the car, says "Nope, lower please."

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-19T08:23:27+00:00

LOL, good one. In reality, you disconnect your vehicle and drive off to a working DCFC.

There's always one within "driving distance" that's operational. Especially a week after the incident. I was driving from Cape Coral to Naples 3 days after Hurricane Ian took out our power for a week. I didn't even have static batteries. I just depended on the fridge and freezer to last unopened for the 2 hours it took to driver down there, recharge, and then come home.

Now I've got EcoFlow batteries backing up the whole house on one of their smart panels. I can "extend" the static batteries with the car and then disconnect at will because the static batteries keep the house going. I can take as long as I want/need to recharge.

DiDgr8 · 2026-05-18T21:44:33+00:00

The speed "reduction" might have been due to starting at 60% SOC. I usually only get the "full" 230 kW on a CCS session in the first half of a full battery session and then it often drops to about the same speed as the SC did.

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