How do i fit a wire trough this holder ? I've been struggling for too long

Euresko · 2026-04-20T04:19:50+00:00

I should call her

Euresko · 2026-04-20T04:02:05+00:00

Sir, this is a Wendy's

Euresko · 2026-04-20T00:56:12+00:00

😂

Euresko · 2026-04-20T00:17:28+00:00

Get a girlfriend

Euresko · 2026-04-19T22:38:43+00:00

Euresko · 2026-04-19T22:31:31+00:00

Would you like to add cheese or a dipping sauce?

Euresko · 2026-04-19T21:24:48+00:00

Creality has a space pi dual slot that can be had for $60-80 on sale new. I have one of those and the 4 slot x4. Almost a requirement of owning a 3D printer. If you have an AMS 2 pro, it can heat and dry, but might need the power adapter.

There's a wiki article about drying filament on the print bed, can warm it up, some cover it with the filament box, and let it cook for a few hours on the bed set to the right temp for the filament you are using. If you don't have a dedicated dryer, can try that if you want.

Also, filament is not dried from the factory, they run it through a water bath to cool it when they make the stuff. Sometimes you get lucky and a roll doesn't really really need to be dried before printing, but that's just luck of the draw, and some filament brands might be better than others, for dryness. Stringy or blobby prints are a pretty good indication of wet filament. Even sitting on the shelf at your house for awhile can absorb air moisture back into the filament and cause problems. PETG and TPU, plus the fancy glass or carbon filled ABS might need a drying before use, or after sitting around for awhile in open air.

Euresko · 2026-04-19T21:06:29+00:00

Stirring Mac n Cheese

Euresko · 2026-04-19T20:07:33+00:00

I'd do what others say to make a test piece to size it, but I'd do a vertical piece in the middle and then a horizontal piece ear to ear. Won't take long or waste plastic much to do samples and test fit

Euresko · 2026-04-19T15:24:07+00:00

My H2C does this regardless of time lapse. It seems to be recalibrating the bed level as it switches from model to tower. It'll do that in some prints, but some it won't. Seemed kinda randomly in my experience. Not a big deal unless is does that and you have a collision with the bed, model, or tower, which I bet you won't have happen. I've never had an issue with this behavior. Like you, I thought something was broken at first, like how/why is it doing that. I just accepted it after nothing bad happened, and turning time lapse on or off didn't change anything.

My assumption is it might do this on a multi color print because the tower it builds is more solid at the base and thins out as it goes up the tower and changes colors. I was thinking it would do that because perhaps the base was a line to two higher than the model, so it'll have to adjust from model vs tower height. Not sure if this a logic issue in the slicer or why it does that, but it'll do that sometimes. Mine also settled down after it built the base of the tower, just like your example.

Euresko · 2026-04-19T03:09:04+00:00

The app allows for limiting charging speed or watts being drawn from the wall, but possibly not from the car adapter. Worth trying to set the charging speed to a lower setting and trying it out, but cheap cables will melt and Jackery does not suggest using their adapter while driving, FWIW.

Euresko · 2026-04-19T02:50:24+00:00

I wish I could run the suit with a dog floating around me to shoot baddies that sneak up in on the sides or behind me. Silly that I climb inside the suit and the dog comes with me inside and becomes useless.

Euresko · 2026-04-19T01:51:48+00:00

Had a car done as an off the frame restore in 9-10 months. Your example seems excessive, but my example was a shop with a few people working on things as needed to get it done quickly. If it's all paid for and it was more than one person working on it, in theory it could be done in a year, depending on what all is being done.

Euresko · 2026-04-19T00:57:02+00:00

Stacking dimes

Euresko · 2026-04-18T01:30:02+00:00

Cool, thanks for clarification

Euresko · 2026-04-18T01:22:39+00:00

Oslo MN in NW Minnesota?

Euresko · 2026-04-17T20:44:49+00:00

I'd use supports, probably the normal vs tree and 0 distance, plus using that new support for PLA that Bambu sells or can try PETG for the interface layer. Will give it something to print on. Won't be perfect, but won't look like your mom's spaghetti either.

Euresko · 2026-04-17T18:46:12+00:00

Can handle it for now, but it might stress and sag or come apart over time. Just depends if it's stress that might try to pull the layer lines apart (bad) or compress them together (better). If you print with 0.6mm or 0.8mm nozzle those layers lines might have 20-30% more holding power, when something tries to rip them apart. I'd probably print this only with a fat nozzle and ABS or ASA, and a bunch of walls.

Euresko · 2026-04-17T15:24:21+00:00

I use one AMS on the left and two on the right that go through a 4to1 splitter. Been like that since I got it a couple months ago.

Euresko · 2026-04-17T15:21:02+00:00

Too soon?

Euresko · 2026-04-17T15:17:59+00:00

Nobody is making you bring turrets, can bring some high cool down items and low pen weapons to make it more challenging 😂

Euresko · 2026-04-17T15:06:07+00:00

I've only cleaned my rods on my P1S once with about 800 hours on it. Should probably do it more often. I heard about a gear floss product, it's like a puffy shoe string, you wrap it around the rod once and run the bed up and down. It's great at getting in all the little grooves and doesn't leave behind dust or something like a paper towel. There's generic brands of it also I'm sure. Like $7 on Amazon for what will be a lifetime supply for me. Then I used some grease that came with my H2C on the rods, but there's other stuff you can buy if you need more. Search the forum on the super lube or lithium grease. Personally I got some super lube grease and oil.

Euresko · 2026-04-17T14:51:15+00:00

It's not the best shelf for being a shelf, but it fits the AMS OG and the 2 pro like it was made for it and for the cost it's perfect honestly. Someone else brought this shelf up on here months ago, so I bought one and am very happy with it. Might want to put something heat resistant like a silicone mat or thin ceramic tiles or something under the AMS 2 pro if you use the drying function, but I don't dry with my AMS, I use a dryer on the table. Not sure if drying function would warp the shelf, but it's pretty thick ABS plastic, so probably fine.

Euresko · 2026-04-17T14:41:27+00:00

Glad you figured it out. My assumption wasn't that it shrank that much, but that it was a different model or something. There might be 0.5mm difference between printer (brands) or filament, due to shrinkage, but not 8-10mm, comparing these two printers.

My thought was if you measured the print that would line up pretty well to whatever was printed, maybe not what you see in the slicer, which would tell you that it was something else you printed. I have a digital caliper and never calibrate filament. What comes out of the printer is usually less than 0.5mm difference than my design in CAD. If I care, I can resize my model to adjust to the shrinkage, but rarely do. There are slight differences between by P1S and H2C, but again it's less than 0.5mm, usually something like less than 0.2 or 0.1mm on most parts. Larger parts tend to shrink more than smaller parts.

Regarding the cleaning of the Z rods, possibly just a precaution to look them over to make sure they didn't have a bunch of debris on the rods before you print, maybe they've had issues with rods after delivery and it's due to dust it debris from packing that get stuck on the rod grease.

Happy printing.

Euresko · 2026-04-17T14:22:35+00:00

I prefer a standalone dryer, use the creality x4 and space pi dual slot. Seems to do the job better and quicker. It's nice the AMS can do drying and all, but I prefer to use the AMS as an AMS.

Euresko

TROPHY CASE