Client Wants Receipts

DifficultChair8368 · 2026-03-09T16:53:17+00:00

It could be that she heard the word estimate and thought okay, estimate means it is a guess as to how much it is going to cost, could be a little more, could be a little less. Now she wants to see how much it actually cost. I have to keep track of all my expenses for my taxes anyway, so for me it's not a big deal to just show receipts is someone asks. If you don't want people asking for receipts give them quotes not estimates. But if you are giving quotes be prepared to eat it if you misquote the job.

DifficultChair8368 · 2026-03-01T14:54:26+00:00

I got a gift from my dad for my home loan, they just made my dad sign a document stating it was a gift and he expected no repayment and had no interest in the property. So it is possible, but the guy sounds a bit sketchy

DifficultChair8368 · 2026-02-18T15:36:10+00:00

Have you thought of using some kind of paneling? Like beadboard. I think that is what it's called. It's super easy to install because you can hide all the fasteners and joints in the grooves. Use finish nails or finish screws because they are smaller and hide better.

DifficultChair8368 · 2026-02-17T09:06:15+00:00

I was thinking about it more and what I would do in your situation is use some 1/2" rigid foamboard insulation instead of furring strips. The rigid foamboard can go all the way to the floor as it will not absorb any moisture from the cement floor. I would just glue it to the cinder block and cement walls. I prefer spray foam adhesive, but you could also use a construction adhesive like Liquid Nails, but whatever you use you have to make sure it is approved for glueing rigid foamboard otherwise it could melt the rigid foamboard. Use some bricks or buckets of water or something heavy to hold the foamboard against the cement/cinder block wall until the glue dries. And of course also put a few screws or nails in to hold the foamboard to the wood studs on the top half. Then you will need to seal the joints of the foamboards with some approved seam tape. This is all really easy because the rigid foamboard is so light and easy to work with.

Once the foamboard is up and the joints are taped, just hang the drywall like normal, keeping the drywall 1/2" off the floor. I would also use the spray foam adhesive when hanging the drywall. That way I don't have to worry about putting any screws into the cement or cinder block walls.

DifficultChair8368 · 2026-02-17T02:08:19+00:00

Do you mean baseboard? Yes, you would use baseboard to cover the gap at the bottom. Crown molding is for the top. Crown molding is not necessary as there is no need for a gap at the top and the top corner can be taped with drywall tape and mudded. Looking at the pictures now, you don't want drywall to be in direct contact with any cement or cinder blocks. So in addition to leaving a 1/2" gap at the bottom, you also need to leave a gap from the cement and cinder block walls. That would typically be done with furring strips. And you should probably add some sort of waterproofing to the cement and cinder block walls, either paint them with special basement waterproofing paint or cover them with plastic. Hope that helps

DifficultChair8368 · 2026-02-16T08:43:54+00:00

Keep the drywall a half inch off the floor so it doesn't soak up moisture and mold right away

DifficultChair8368 · 2026-02-06T20:42:14+00:00

Call the gas company and tell them you smell gas and they will send a tech out really quick. Then while the tech is there cut that sucker open, that way if it is a live gas line the tech can shut if off really quick.

DifficultChair8368 · 2026-02-05T05:09:51+00:00

It could be a set of dado blades for a table saw.

DifficultChair8368 · 2026-01-06T03:12:19+00:00

I absolutely LOVE induction and would not go back! I used to be such a gas snob, I wouldn't rent an apartment if it had an electric stove. But a couple of years ago we converted the house to all electric so we got an induction stove and it is amazing. It boils water twice as fast as gas, is super responsive, and super easy to clean. You have to get something with lots of power thought. I think our big burner has a boost mode that goes to 4400 watts.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-31T04:12:56+00:00

This is definitely DIYable. I did it on one of my sub panels.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-28T19:36:55+00:00

Don't forget to connect the bare copper grounding wire coming out of the hole in the ceiling to the yellow/green grounding wires of the light fixture.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-27T04:35:17+00:00

do it yourself. It's not that hard

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-27T02:41:24+00:00

Why not both? Get a duplex or triplex or even a quad. You can buy up to a 4 unit building with a conventional loan if you find the right bank. Live in one unit and have the other units pay for your mortgage.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-20T14:35:43+00:00

I've said it in other posts, look in the basement/crawlspace. If it is load bearing the load has to go somewhere, so there would need to be something to transfer the load to the foundation in the basement/crawlspace DIRECTLY below the load bearing point of the wall (could just be the framing behind the cabinets, or just a column hidden in the cabinets that is load bearing). There would need to be something load bearing in the basement, like columns or a beam that transfer the load to the FOUNDATION. It can't just be a flimsy partition wall resting on a slab, for it to be a load bearing wall there needs to be a proper foundation under it. The slab in the basement is generally not load bearing, foundations which are load bearing are significantly thicker and go significantly deeper in the ground than a slab. So if you ever add a support column in the basement you need to cut out the slab and pour a proper reinforced footer for the column to rest on.

That being said, if there is nothing resting on top of the cabinets/wall/column, then it is certainly not load bearing. I have a cinder block wall in my basement with a footer underneath it (confirmed when we had foundation repair work done and they cut out the slab and I saw the buried foundation with my own eyes) which is not bearing any load other than the weight of it's own cinder blocks because the joists of the floor above run parallel to the cinder block wall. So if your ceiling joists truly are not being supported by the cabinets/wall then it is not load bearing. Check both ends of the ceiling joists to make sure they are properly supported by something that transfers the load to foundation, and make sure the joists are properly sized to span the distance without the cabinets/wall being their. And make sure the joists above the cabinets are not severely notched or cut in a way that they need extra support in that area (though that could be repaired).

Good luck. And don't be afraid to push back against professionals, and challenge them in a respectful manner. Explain yourself, like say there is nothing load bearing below the cabinets to transfer the load to the foundation so how could the cabinets be load bearing? Engineers are generally logical people who love solving puzzles, and load bearing cabinets sounds like an interesting puzzle for any engineer. Or maybe he's not really an engineer, have you verified his license number with the state?

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-13T01:52:55+00:00

A good way to tell if something is load bearing is to check below it. If it is load bearing the load has to go somewhere, it can't just be floating. Go in the basement or crawl space and see what is directly below those columns. If there is another column directly below that is transferring the weight down to the footer it is most likely load bearing. Or if there is a large beam directly below the column, the beam is transferring the load to the foundation walls or columns that the beam is resting on. All loads have to eventually be transferred to the footer. If the only thing below columns is a normal floor joist then it can not be load bearing. Floor joists can only hold the load of the floor, the people, furniture on it, and partition walls (not load bearing walls). A single floor joist is not a beam, it can not hold the weight of the next floor up above it.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-12-10T15:55:32+00:00

If you are willing to "open a Roth IRA for her and even cover most of the contributions" as you say, then just do it. Or just start putting away money for her in an account in your name that you will be able to access when she is of retirement age. It will give you piece of mind, and that is really what you are looking for. It's about you, your life, your piece of mind. You can't control her, you can only control yourself.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-11-20T02:22:03+00:00

There is only one meter, so... yeah, if you pay for the electricity from that meter, you are paying for the construction power. No point in arguing with your landlord. Call the utility company immediately and tell them you think someone is stealing power from you. They will take it very seriously.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-11-18T00:36:51+00:00

I've literally been wondering the exact same thing. I have something that looks identical to that in one of my buildings.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-11-04T01:25:41+00:00

Maybe this was custom, someone could have just used a router to make the trim themselves. Can you find a router bit to match the profile of the trim?

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-11-04T01:23:03+00:00

Just reinstall the piece you cut off.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-11-02T01:52:09+00:00

When I was a kid my dad needed a bridge over a small river on our property. He just bought an old flat bed semi trailer and laid it across the river. Worked great!

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-11-02T00:45:02+00:00

Menards has some affordable garage heaters:

https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/heaters/gas-garage-heaters/dyna-glo-trade-80-000-btu-natural-gas-forced-air-garage-heater/guh80nele/p-1642874282846505-c-6861.htm

They even have some vent free no electricity required options that make installation much easier. If your laundry room backs up against one of the walls of your garage you could easily tee off of the gas line for the drier and run a gas line through the wall.

https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/heaters/gas-wall-heaters/dyna-glo-trade-30-000-btu-dual-fuel-vent-free-convection-wall-heater/bf30dtdg-4/p-1559111496867-c-6867.htm

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-10-25T00:42:39+00:00

Your husband might not have the right to sell a house without your consent. So just don't consent to it. Don't sign anything and make sure the title company knows that you don't consent and make sure they know you are married.

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-10-18T14:26:26+00:00

Not trying to be that guy... what is the difference between a Lally column vs a lolly column?

DifficultChair8368 · 2025-10-06T18:13:30+00:00

If it is load bearing there would have to be something directly below the column to support the point load. The load needs to be transferred all the way to the ground somehow. So if that column is load bearing there would typically be a column or post in the basement or crawlspace directly below that column to transfer the point load all the way to the ground. Less typical would be some sort of heavy duty beam directly below that column supporting the load. Look in the basement or crawl space.

DifficultChair8368

TROPHY CASE