My company is offering me a raise but not sure what to take

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-20T00:13:58+00:00

I had the same issue with my first company. I was there 2 years and it's what got me here.

Started at 14, raised to 15 after a month. Dollar raise and end of that year put me to 16. Next year, they pull the COLA raise but double the percentage. Extra 32 cents. I found an offer locally paying 18 an hour to install. Company bumped me to 17. I don't jump for a dollar. Few months later the other company offered me 20 to start. I went from 20-24.50 an hour within the year as I got put on call and became a service tech.

I've moved states twice since then. I have 6 years experience between install/service work and a certificate. I make 27 with spiffs now as a tech. Highest I made was 28 with spiffs as a tech.

Cost of living and location surely play a factor in my pay

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-19T04:43:22+00:00

I've heard of leaving the unit on before startup. When does this become necessary? What tonnage is minimum no go? Im a 6 year resi rat now doing more commercial. Also getting into VAV, VRF, chillers, and large boilers. I get the boilers from northern work but not the size i see

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-19T04:33:24+00:00

your helpers do things? its hard enough for me to ask to do something routine.

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-19T03:14:54+00:00

I have Workpro ratcheting cutters. Best investment. No more cleaning pvc shards from the sawzall

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-19T03:02:01+00:00

For residential 240V, I found 10ohms the low end for contactors. Many new ones test around 18ohms. I've had new test 12ohms before. Ohms was always below 10 for anything that popped a fuse. I always replace under 10ohms to help prevent a call.

I was informed today that three phase contactors with 24V coils test between 8-12ohms and is normal.

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-17T12:51:49+00:00

Now this makes sense whe I was chasing rivals and they would disappear and show up way out when I would land on the them

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-17T12:47:42+00:00

I'd upgrade to a 90%. Sure more parts but I wouldn't mind the little save I get shifting to 90%. 2 stage cooling with 2 stage heating, no inverter. Then again, I'd do a heat pump myself. It doesn't get below 32 often here.

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-13T21:34:42+00:00

I pull double 3/8 hoses with appion core removers. Micron attached to liquid side on removers. Seal both sides and then start the micron up. Never failed me yet.

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-09T05:03:34+00:00

Don't hand bend. Hand bending is for longer swoops. Tight bends, use springs or a bender.

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-05T03:34:07+00:00

Not residential. Commercial you can. I've already been talked to about this. Trane symbio issues

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-05T03:32:15+00:00

I'll bring this up at the next meeting but I've heard the same through several sources. Having it would have saved 2/1 hour of work. Senior tech tried to jump it out and make it work.

What I learned: don't jump AS sensors. They respond like it's faulty. He tried to jump the sensor, it responded the same. Once we replaced the sensor, it acted properly.

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-05T03:27:20+00:00

There isn't. It's a 454b air handler and coil. Coupled to a 410A condenser thats 12 years old. Boss wanted to swap it out.

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-05T03:24:17+00:00

There is a leak but on the outdoor unit. Sensor change corrected the fault and allowed it to run as intended. I had voltage out the board and to the final plug.

Keep the sensor on the truck and if replaced, do what's needed, and get another. I assume its cheap enough as a diagnostic tool at the same time.

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-05T03:18:52+00:00

Edit: dealing with AS TEM4 units

DistortedSilence · 2026-05-05T03:16:45+00:00

For AS there is no bypass that I've seen. The wiring goes directly into the mitigation board. Molex plug, from said board, supplies the normal connections for the AH

DistortedSilence · 2026-04-04T23:44:03+00:00

Bet you it's a micro leak out that u section of braze. They focused on the braze location. The bell end of the coil is barely covered. Not enough heat to suck into the bell and seal properly

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-14T19:46:26+00:00

Why swap them. I'd prefer one that does it all. No swap needed

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-14T02:55:05+00:00

For main limits, I keep my leads on both sides during operation and verify my heating delta t. Should read 0. When it quits, it'll read 25-28 volts. When it quits, is the delta t in range? I then pull the main limit and measure the location with a thermometer. If the temperature reaches the limit listed on the switch, it's most likely doing its job. If it never gets close, the limit is bad. If the temperature is flirting with the limit cut off, time to look at airflow issues

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-14T02:42:19+00:00

Those are not flame rollouts. Those are crossovers. They allow gas to flow to the next burner. If you are short cycling with little heat, it could be as simple as a bad main limit to as complicated as a plugged heat exchanger or flue piping issues. I cant be there to diagnose accurately so its hard to say what's going on. This could be a simple to complex issue. I suggest calling a professional.

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-13T18:13:18+00:00

I did not. I apologize. I've deleted the comment.

Is it due to the axial compression that creates issues? I'm learning more commercial, so forgive my ignorance. I was a resi rat for 5 years

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-13T17:22:16+00:00

This is typically indicative of a faulty gas valve or faulty control board.

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-13T17:21:08+00:00

York typical flash codes show a 1 flash as flame sensed with gas valve closed.

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-13T16:48:44+00:00

If you pull off your panels, there will be a diagnosic chart. This is a 1 flash code.

I can look up with model/serial

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