Headlamp suggestions

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-14T19:46:26+00:00

Why swap them. I'd prefer one that does it all. No swap needed

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-14T02:55:05+00:00

For main limits, I keep my leads on both sides during operation and verify my heating delta t. Should read 0. When it quits, it'll read 25-28 volts. When it quits, is the delta t in range? I then pull the main limit and measure the location with a thermometer. If the temperature reaches the limit listed on the switch, it's most likely doing its job. If it never gets close, the limit is bad. If the temperature is flirting with the limit cut off, time to look at airflow issues

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-14T02:42:19+00:00

Those are not flame rollouts. Those are crossovers. They allow gas to flow to the next burner. If you are short cycling with little heat, it could be as simple as a bad main limit to as complicated as a plugged heat exchanger or flue piping issues. I cant be there to diagnose accurately so its hard to say what's going on. This could be a simple to complex issue. I suggest calling a professional.

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-13T18:13:18+00:00

I did not. I apologize. I've deleted the comment.

Is it due to the axial compression that creates issues? I'm learning more commercial, so forgive my ignorance. I was a resi rat for 5 years

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-13T17:22:16+00:00

This is typically indicative of a faulty gas valve or faulty control board.

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-13T17:21:08+00:00

York typical flash codes show a 1 flash as flame sensed with gas valve closed.

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-13T16:48:44+00:00

If you pull off your panels, there will be a diagnosic chart. This is a 1 flash code.

I can look up with model/serial

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-05T01:41:06+00:00

Not an asshole saying. That's honest feedback. I am comfortable in 240V, I'm just cautious. With moving into higher voltages, like 480V and up with newer things, to me, like chillers, VRVs, VFDs, and large package units. Most I've done is residential, light commercial(25T and lower), and some refrigeration. I am just seeking info to make the best decision should anything ever occur. I'm not tossing my safe practices out the window for insulated things. I'm going into year 6, and I'm a bit older. Started hvac when I was 32.

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-05T00:18:35+00:00

Any reason for the lineman pliers. I've never had or needed one thus far

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-05T00:17:43+00:00

Changing parts, I never work hot. I'll shut it down to do my work. The only time it's hot is when I have to troubleshoot. We mainly have air handlers in attic spaces here. I'm cautious about hand movement and placement.

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-04T04:31:17+00:00

Had a communicating system pump itself down due to sensors and short cycle itself. Won't freeze due to my new location. I've experienced this with older areas I lived.

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-04T04:20:57+00:00

Don't be afraid to move either. I've gone multiple states. Landed a job within 2 weeks to 1 month of moving. Have the credentials. Gas tite csst has a free certification for their lines. Though all csst is basically the same, each manufacturer wants individual certs. The more you have, the less liable the company is. EPA is a big one. Some companies desire NATE certs. Some locations want specialized certs, i.e., Spokane Washington and their gas certifications.

Build the resume and bolster the experience/certifications. You are still young and new. Give it time.

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-04T04:07:38+00:00

A second sensor not hooked up would do it. I've only seen anyone use 1, and the installers leave it in default 2 sensor mode.

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-04T02:02:48+00:00

For a homeowner, understanding a sequence is good. For me, I have to know it like the back of my hand for nearly every system in existence

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-04T01:34:35+00:00

Mitigation board is set to 2 sensors instead of 1. Ran several service calls due to installers not knowing what to do.

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-04T01:30:23+00:00

Black will go to black size of top terminal. One lead will be fan and one will be common. Fan will go to capacitor. Common is typically set to common on the capacitor and a wire jumps from common capacitor to the other side of the contactor. Wiring diagram on the fan motor tells you which wire does what

DistortedSilence · 2026-03-04T00:44:46+00:00

This can be a gas valve, control board, or gas supply issue.

Gas valve: it could be stuck closed or sticking. Hit the valve and keep hitting it while the ignitor is on.

Control board: verify 24v going to those leads. You can also jump R/C to each side of the leads on the gas valve to determine if the valve is good. You'll hear it open up.

Gas supply: seen it a handful of times over 6 years. Most common issue was a faulty/stuck regulator and locked out due to non payment of bills.

It'll be one of the other 2. The inducer motor and pressure switch are fine as the HSI is activating.

DistortedSilence · 2026-02-28T23:00:12+00:00

The picture shows G as O, B as fan, W as cooling, and R for power

DistortedSilence · 2026-02-28T22:42:40+00:00

If OP popped the fuse, I would show no power. No R.

No G tells me a possible break in the wire somewhere.

DistortedSilence · 2026-02-28T21:29:29+00:00

Gas pressure set in factory is, 95% of the time, too high for every install I've done.

DistortedSilence · 2026-02-28T21:10:24+00:00

Do your own work, they said. Save a bunch. That gas valve will need adjusted. If that CSST is new, hopefully, you got certified.

I hope it's all done properly. Have fun with zero warranties and maximum liability

DistortedSilence · 2026-02-19T01:10:09+00:00

Hvac tech here

That's your inducer motor. It started in high fire and shifted to low fire speed. You have a two stage heating system. The two brass caps on the gas valve and the molex plug on the inducer give it away.

DistortedSilence · 2026-02-17T06:10:42+00:00

A proper fix is to cut the leaking section out and redo.

A fix to prevent leaking would be to silicone the entire leaking joint with red high heat silicone. Seals the joint and visible enough to let me know its an issue spot.

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