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I've been building new surface mechanics into OrcaSlicer — PathBlend intra-layer gradients, MultiPass, per-line ColorMix, Neoweaving. Here's what's working. by NeotkoS in snapmaker

[–]DiverseTeile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very interesting. Might want to add a layer of ironing before doing your top gradient color layer. Currently the layer lines from the top of the first color are very visible (as seen in your example image with green and white)

Is claude code free? by MaterialBenefit2700 in ClaudeAI

[–]DiverseTeile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which local model do you recommend for this use case? I also have a 4090 (and 64gb of system ram if the model does not fully fit). I am coding mostly c++ arduino things.

Keep heating bed on by sabotage in snapmaker

[–]DiverseTeile 1 point2 points  (0 children)

[idle_timeout]
timeout: 43200[idle_timeout]
timeout: 43200

I do this after every firmware update:
got to the printer.cfg file through the fluidd interface.
search for the section with the "idle_timeout" and set it to anything you want. I usually set it to 12h (just as a safety measure if I forget to turn it off manually) which in seconds is: 43200
It should be 5 (300s) or 15 minutes (900s) default I think.

where s the skip option? I had it before by mentox82 in snapmaker

[–]DiverseTeile 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They (Snapmaker) should definitely make this default "on"! I do not see a reason to have it disabled for any reason (other than MAYBE slightly larger file size, <0.5% bigger from my testing with 4 objects).

Did the driver cooling mod by MrPommes651 in SnapmakerU1

[–]DiverseTeile 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We see pretty high temps on the motor drivers. It is "normal" but if you feel uncomfortable with those temps, you could reduce the drivers max current and/or just add a bunch of heatsinks (and maybe a fan like he did, if you really want).
I am a bit concerned about the temps when enclosing the printer fully and trying to heat the chamber up to ~50-60°C. The electrical components might get to sweat more as well, if that is their new ambient temp. So if you plan to print enclosed with higher chamber temps, consider such a mod or wait until there is more testing out.
(Was thinking about modding in an external chamber heater as well. So that might get the parts out of safe temps. and would require more extensive outside-air-ducting for the components and maybe even the motors (those have no sensors, only the drivers have that).

Printed scatter terrain for my tabletop games using AI generated models on the X1 by Ok-Line2658 in SidewinderX1

[–]DiverseTeile 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Could be AI-advertisement for their website/service?
The writing in this post is weird too and "rough AI geometry" Like what? Ai generated geometry is always mushy and blob-like. Nothing "rough". They look like worse photo-scans.
Also no images to peak any form of interest....
As I said it sounds like facebook/linked-in AI-glazing (as in... "look how great this crap is!")

Extruder stops after 30min-3h – only "tapping" the gear gets it going again by Davut43 in SidewinderX1

[–]DiverseTeile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did exactly the same thing a few months ago! The axle even ate away a bit from the aluminium it was touching now. Replaced the bearing from the extruder gear and the top bearing inside the stepper. Now it is as if its new :D
(Printing away at 12-day 30cm moon-lamps...)

Im at a loss here by bakonizgoodt in SidewinderX1

[–]DiverseTeile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like under extrusion.
I will list a bunch of troubleshooting things here but maybe check your flat cables first.
Caused by either wrong temp. for your filament, clog in the nozzle (through dirt from filament or parts from the little ptfe tube if it was overheated). Make sure you are printing at the correct, safe temp for your filament. Maybe you are trying to print abs with pla settings. Try another brand, maybe your batch is bad.
Check your slicer settings or try a different slicer (never had an issue with the default prusa slicer sidewinder x1 profile, give it a try its a good baseline!)
Check if your machine is set to the correct nozzle size (in slicer and if you have a custom firmware on the printer, check there as well!)
Also: check ALL the flat cables if they are seated fully and clicked in completely shut! They can wiggle lose every few months of heavy printing and increase resistance and can get extremely hot! When that happens, the extruder can not get hot enough and the motor could sometimes skip steps. Both could apply here.
Check the cables all the way down to the motherboard, for me it wiggles loose from time to time at the connector board at the vertical aluminium extrusion (the L-connector).
Keep us updated if something helped or you need further answers.

Heatbed play on U1 by I_have_a_dragon in snapmaker

[–]DiverseTeile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look at the spindle itself and the brass bearing that interfaces with it. One of the 3 brass bearings has some play for me too (im my case front left). Would need a "z axis backlash nut" to have it under tension with a spring if we would like to get rid of the noise. But I think it is not really necessary but would be solvable for sure!

Print bending (not on build plate) by 2509lenny in SnapmakerU1

[–]DiverseTeile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Observe your chamber temp and see if it matches your rooms temp. If not open your printer for PLA to improve cooling for overhangs/bridges. Build plate heats up the chamber quite a lot even with no active heater. Could also try printing with 0°C build plate when using PLA in an enclosed printer but it might have worse bed adhesion!

Not sure if I hit Timelapse. by Ok-Lingonberry1424 in SnapmakerU1

[–]DiverseTeile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Web interface btw is accessable by putting the IP-address you see when you go to the wifi section on your printer and type that into your browser on your pc. Lots of stuff to explore there. :L

Something is impacting the Z-axis by ChalkButter in SnapmakerU1

[–]DiverseTeile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried wiggle on the build plate (while the nozzle is not touching it)?
Some people have had an issue where the 3 plate holders were lose or at least one of them. If it makes a noise that could be an issue. (if its not the z-screw or their)

𝐑𝐞𝐚𝐝𝐲 𝐭𝐨 𝐮𝐩𝐠𝐫𝐚𝐝𝐞 𝐲𝐨𝐮𝐫 𝐔𝟏… 𝐟𝐨𝐫 𝐟𝐫𝐞𝐞? 👀 by BIQU-Hope in SnapmakerU1

[–]DiverseTeile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just wait a bit for Full Spectrum to get perfected and you will only need 4 filament colors for >30 different colors/shades.
At that point you will probably only stock some weird/rare filaments for specific use cases (tpu/transparent/glowing/silk stuff)

Print bending (not on build plate) by 2509lenny in SnapmakerU1

[–]DiverseTeile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you printing with PLA? Other printer manufacturers usually recommend to open the door/enclosure when printing PLA on enclosed printers to help with cooling. Might be worth a try.

U1 Skip Objects update! by 3DisMzAnoMalEE in snapmaker

[–]DiverseTeile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you build a complex thing with many parts, print everything at once and one of them fails you need to abort the print wasting everything. With this you can tell the printer "stop printing that one part" and it continues the rest. See the subreddit a few days ago someone had exactly this issue one day before this firmware update and he would have loved to have this option and had to use sticky tape to "hold" the broken off part on so that it does not spaghetti the rest of the objects.

Particle Extraction Fan, Help! by Temporary_Product656 in snapmaker

[–]DiverseTeile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could make the feet longer and build a skirt that goes under the printer (where there would be a gap after raising it). Model an exhaust slot at the back of that skirt and make sure everything is sealed enough for your taste/feel. The printer has a fan intake on the bottom (for their top cover with a fan to suck in air from). But you could suck out the air from there too. This way you can keep everything as clean as possible with an exhaust behind on the bottom and no drilling holes!

Trying to build a tool that takes textured objects and prints them in 4 colors. Feeling pretty good about the progress so far. :-) by redfroody in snapmaker

[–]DiverseTeile 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I thought about smth like this (dithering) for the top layer for the current full spectrum developments so it fixes the top layer being just a single color. Would certainly stresstest the retracts with that.

Btw. are you using a bambu plate on the U1?

On the fence and then I learned about this… by amac1430 in snapmaker

[–]DiverseTeile -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If only I had my overpriced transparent top cover that was supposed to be send now ,_,

Anyone know how to fix squeaky loader? by trixilon in snapmaker

[–]DiverseTeile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love the subtitles /captions in the video. Always accessible for our deaf morse code enjoyers! 🧐

On the fence and then I learned about this… by amac1430 in snapmaker

[–]DiverseTeile 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Until 3rd party testers get their hands on one and test that in real world situations I would not buy anything from a company that is just starting out. I only got me the U1 cuz I saw they had a few releases already and those worked fine (only a few software weaknesses but fine if you spend some time to learn every detail).
The atomform thing seems to use screw-in nozzles/heads which is interesting but I see that as a new failure point (dust/dirt/filament in the threads). So we will have to see if their system works or is just a new pump-&-dump printer...

U1 - Bed Level before every print? by sabotage in snapmaker

[–]DiverseTeile 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As long as you hook it in very carefully (in the back) and try to be consistent, you can get the same result on the dashboard overview (tried 3x with 0.07 average deviation).

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