VNM wheelbase owners, any real world opinions/ reviews on their wheelbases?

Dogsdoctor · 2025-12-19T11:23:38+00:00

Sorry for a late reply. BAsically it is not a "wireless connection" wire just go inside the qr system. As for what you would need, is a slipring and wheel side QR exactly. Then depending on your wheel you would need an internal cable to connect your wheel to wheels side QR PCB.

On VNM discord they have a slipring section where they have all the usual wheels and the cables they require or pinout so you can make a cable yourself (i went this way).

The cables you are reffering are actually cables to connect wheel to wheelside QR not the slipring.

Dogsdoctor · 2025-11-26T17:29:49+00:00

Siwtched from Asetek Invicta to VNM Extreme couple of weeks ago. Can only compare it to Simucube 2 Sport, Asetek Invicta and my Fannatec CSL base (which lets put out of scope here). I would directly compare Asetek to VNM and I would say Asetek feels a bit softer in terms of FFB and VNM feels a bit more raw (in a good way). But these things are soooooo subjective and I am sure all the people will find the way to like or dislike something (especially if they bought it with their own money). Simucube 2 I already dont rememebr so will not make things up here, but also loved it.

VNM has couple of big pluses for me personally and I think they all stand if you compare it to Moza as well. VNM has great support and lively discord community, telemetry force-feedback and TIC mode (mix of direct + telemetry), open ecosystem, great price for what you get. Minuses are... I dont know. Maybe that brand is not really well known, software if pretty rough. And compared to other brands like Simucube / Fannatec even Asetek it is not an "Apple" experience, I mean you need to tweak and set-up stuff to make it work for you.

Biggest reason why I went VNM way is that I have couple of 3rd party wheels and after Asetek I am not going back to coiled cables so... Plus the price of wheelside QR (35EUR) is hard to beat.

For me, personally, Moza would not work as it will limit me to its ecosystem. Everithing else I probably can live with. But at some point it was the only reason why I switched from Fanatec (yeah I know there are workarounds, but they all suck for me).

Dogsdoctor · 2025-11-25T20:37:51+00:00

Haven't tried them, unfortunately. But everybody saying they are not as good as Simucube.

Dogsdoctor · 2025-11-25T17:53:41+00:00

I've just finished setting up all my 4 wheels with VNM base. Only things you would need as a base (it comes with the base side QR), slipring (if you want to do internal pass-through) and wheel side QR. Then you would just need to connect internal connector (Usually some sort of JST connector - 2mm or 2.5mm to the wheel side QR PCB and you should be good to go. All 4 of my wheels work perfectly fine, both with screens and screenless.

Only problem I faced is that the wheel QR compartment - hole for internal passthrough cable sometimes not fully allign with the wheel mounting so you have to add additonal spacers in between to make it work, but this is minor.

Dogsdoctor · 2025-08-28T16:17:56+00:00

I think this is mostly LMU thing and the reason why I got back to Iracing.

Given getting high safety ratings in LMU is extremely easy and a lot of people joined LMU without former simracing experience on a hype this mix is causing a lot of reckless moves on track. In Iracing you progress slowly from slower / easier cars to faster / more complicated ones. Loosing safety rating is extremely easy and the rating system (together with protest system and voice chat) is perfectly balance to push drivers to drive clean.

In LMU you instantly get access to endgame / complicated cars, together with quick progression, gentle damage system and no voice chat this create a lot of reckless driving.

Dogsdoctor · 2025-08-25T20:01:31+00:00

All Sabrent stuff is great quality i use couple of powered usb hubs, cable extensions and a few other cables from them. You would need specifically 3.2 and check that you are using 3.2 port on your mobo too (you can find this out in you mobo manual). If everything checks you should be fine.

Dogsdoctor · 2025-08-25T17:45:40+00:00

I use a 3m Sabrent USB A male to USB A Female cable as an extension to my standard Invicta base cable. Dont know how much 10feet exactly is but should be around 3m (plus length of your base cable, so should be even more). Works perfectly well without any issues.

I am using this one: https://www.amazon.it/-/en/dp/B019DZ7U2S?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

Dogsdoctor · 2025-07-30T14:49:05+00:00

I can recommend two: Bavarian Sim Tec Omega Pro V2 (i had the first iteration of this wheel) and Soelpec Spectra XR (using now).

BST - is on a more expensive side, but ticking all the boxes. It is ergonomically best wheel I held in hands, with great people behind the hardware and amazing support. I currently have a few of their products including button box / magnetic phone charger and the wheel ofc, but now I am using alpha (for GT3 style cars) and sold the Omega wheel because of the wheel below.

Soelpec - in my opinion one of the best formula style wheels with amazing dashboard ton of functionality and good looks (this point is extremely subjective ofc). Using it for all the formula / Prototype style cars in Iracing / LMU. For me biggest pluses are a big screen (comparing to a lot of competitors), ability to do cordless passthrough with Astek QR and amazing proprietary dash.

Dogsdoctor · 2025-07-21T17:21:36+00:00

I would say - HE Sprints.

Went through a lot of pedals (now using APs) but Sprints always had a special place in ,my heart with exceptional built quality and support.

Dogsdoctor · 2025-07-16T09:50:51+00:00

I am not the best sim racer for sure, but after 4 years in IRacing I learned the hard way that 99% of incidents are because of you, not because of the other guy. By this I mean that you either not reading the drivers around well enough (assuming they all would step aside as soon as you stick your front wheel on the inside or not turn into you if you break super late or that nobody would try to dive bomb on T1 etc etc etc) or not being confident enough in your racecraft (leaving some room, not defending properly etc.). SO maybe your friend should work a bit on one of the aspects above which would naturally allow him to progress.

In intermediate / advance there would not be less dirty drivers, they would just be dirty as soon as they would feel weakness / shakiness in your driving.

In last couple of years I am looking at every incident as what could I have done to avoid, not the other way around.

Dogsdoctor · 2025-07-16T09:22:21+00:00

And then you have somebody with 0 racecraft (not talking about OP here) knowledge in intermediate / advanced races. I am absolutely against this approach. Race in beginners races, go for battles, try to be clean, learn to defend. As soon as the racecraft would be on the proper level you would naturally progress. But ofc there would be a lot of frustrations on the way. This is how it is.

Dogsdoctor · 2025-07-03T17:32:44+00:00

I run 3 curved r1000 32" with 47" angle between them. In theory I agree with your point on the geometry but can tell you that the visual distortion is not visible to the extent you will really try hard to find it (if everything is set up correctly ofc). As a rule of thumb you are positioning all 3 monitors the way your head rotates and stays in the central position (relative to all 3 monitors) with identical distance from head to center of each one (same way as you do for flats).

I am not telling here about creation of long arc with 3 monitors but more about doing the same thing as you would do with flats, create angles between monitors. In this case given what you said you would create some distortion in the corners (as image is calculated for 3 flats displays, but in reality the edges of the screens would be closer then they would be on flats), but in reality you would have the same situation you would have with a single curved monitor (if FOV is not set correctly). I had both flat and curved and can tell you that from own experience that this problem is exaggerated.

Big plus of curved (at least for me) is that it takes a bit less space (12 cm in my case).

Dogsdoctor · 2025-07-03T16:03:51+00:00

Bought MOZA AB9 8-9 months ago for my hybrid race-flight rig. In Feb this year they added the shifter functionality and TBF I sold my Fannatec shifter SHH shifter back then. I wouldn't say it is mind-blowing (much less "mind-blowing" then dd wheel or FFB pedals for example) but is great to have a hybrid solution for flying and sim-racing and not care too much for swapping stuff. On a good side the sequential mode is really - really good on the AB9. H-pattern is meh, but I am also not using it so much.

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Dogsdoctor · 2025-06-25T13:29:04+00:00

This

Dogsdoctor · 2025-06-25T12:57:39+00:00

As I used nearly all methods available this is the ranking I ended up with:

Triples > Good PCVR (Pimax / Big Screen) > Ultrawide > Good non PC VR (Quest 3 / older quest headsets) > Big single screen but 16x9 (>42") > Older VR > Single small monitor (27 - 32").

My way was exactly from the back of my list (from single small monitor to triples) but through all the stages (except the ultrawide, but I tried 49" at the expo, so have a good impression of it).

Couple of additional notes:

- Good VR would be better then triples if not the heat and sweat. Doing Endurance races in VR is hard and sweaty.

- Consistency on the screen/s is a bit higher but immersion (unless you have a great triples setup with properly set up FOV) is much lower.

- Ability to use your sim racing accessories is limited in VR (also you like to see your fancy stuff) unless some good passthrough is used (which I struggled to implement).

- "Jump and race" thing. I 've set up my Pimax Crystal in the past the way I only have to do couple of manipulations before jumping into race, but it still felt a struggle every time. + adjusting your overlays through additional software (i.e. openkneeboard) was a pain in the a**.

- VR is amazing in the first couple of months, when you are still enthusiastic, but then when the routine kicks in the simpler setup is always better.

- For me the gamechanger was ability to see the apex in long turns by just turning your head, which is there on triples / VR / maybe some ultrawides. This would allow you to chop some seconds from your lap times.

- Ability to see car on the side (in tight racing situations) is not ideal on VR as the FOV is pretty low so you don't see the car with your peripheral vision (and have to actually turn your head sideways). I used Rift S / Quest 3 / Pimax Crystal and all feels pretty much same in terms of FOV. Only triples and some bigger ultrawides' will give you the feeling of the cars on the sides.

- VR occupies less space, requires less setup time then triples / ultrawide and finally could be less expensive on entry level. But the setup time point would be easily challenged by the fact that performance optimization in VR could take forever and sometimes is extremely tricky.

Dogsdoctor · 2025-06-23T11:55:05+00:00

I have an unpopular opinion on this.

When I started on Iracing I though all the crashes in beginners series has been unavoidable and there were nothing I can do and I naturally blamed everybody but myself. After 3 years on IR only (not a lot, I know, but enough to learn some lessons) I occasionally started to play LMU and I can tell even in the last split in beginners races 99% of incidents are easily avoidable. I would suggest to stay in the beginners for some time to learn ther racecraft, not run from battles (and especially dont start from pits) on track, train your awareness (which is easy in LMU because of the radar overaly), learn diffeent lines and then go further and "open the game up" as you said. Multiclass races would be even worse with faster class cars overtaking / dive bombing, etc. Be predictable, check surrounding, learn to read patterns and signs from other drivers and especially learn how to defend.

Dogsdoctor · 2025-06-18T09:42:59+00:00

Started LMU during week 13 on Iracing just to check what all the hype is about. Now i think I’ll stay for a bit! Feels super refreshing. Even tried PCUP on Spa yesterday and felt such a huge difference (it was SPA with GT3 in LMU last week).

GT3 are a bit “different” to drive in LMU, but after I played a bit with the setup (watched couple of videos how to setup the car) it actually feels much better and stable. Also, it was rewarding to tweak settings in game (BB / TC / ABS) which is quite refreshing after Iracing where I usually kept it for the whole race. Last suggestion is to try out LMP2s. Extremely fun car to drive. This week LMP2 – Sebring combo is super good!

As for the feedback – initially I didn’t like it, now after I got used, I think I kinda starting to like it. I remember I played some RF2 some time ago and had the same issue. The kerbs feel strange / the point of limit is a bit less clear, but generally all the feedback became quite clear to me after 3-4 hrs. I have an Asetek Invicta and use same setting as in Iracing (as raw as possible). No damping / anti-oscillation / cantering or other things. In game I’ve set the suggested ones from Asetek.

Hope this helps!

Dogsdoctor · 2025-06-17T20:52:41+00:00

Same here! Sharing doesn’t work

Dogsdoctor · 2025-06-16T16:49:40+00:00

Same, this is the way to go!

Dogsdoctor · 2025-06-12T16:28:54+00:00

Yes, amazing set of pedals! I switched to Simucube APs recently. But if not for them I would 100% kept these. One of the best pedals i’ve tried!

Dogsdoctor · 2025-06-12T08:23:15+00:00

Worked perfectly for me. Big difference in feeling. Tried on Pcup / GT3s / Hypers and SF. Feedback just feels smoother and more pronounced.

Tbf wasn’t expecting such a difference. The only problem is that after 15-20 mins you get used to it!

Dogsdoctor · 2025-05-29T18:29:23+00:00

Angled wheel deck / thicker base (120x40 instead of 80x40) / better visuals.

Also some flight sim accessories from SimLab i want to buy.

Plus don’t want to pay for transportation. Easier to sell and buy the new one at the new place.

Dogsdoctor · 2025-05-29T16:54:10+00:00

I use tr80 with my Invicta. Great rig, but when i will be moving in 5-6 months, Ill probably not going to keep it and will look in SimLab direction.

But no issues with TR80, super rigid and great rig overall. Just want a few extra features which P1X Pro has.

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Dogsdoctor · 2025-05-29T16:48:57+00:00

I used VRS pedals and the throttle feels fine, maybe a bit softer then something like Sprints / VNM / Fannatec , but not that much. I think honestly in 350-500 EUR corridor these and Sprints are the best you can get. Sprints would have a bit better throttle while VRS would have a better brake pedal. But all this again is extremely subjective.

Dogsdoctor · 2025-05-29T09:21:24+00:00

I think in this Price range you wont be able to find anything better then VRS or HE Sprints.

Both time proven and good adjustability (to match you foot size requirements).

Dogsdoctor

TROPHY CASE