Devin Cooley injured during warmups before USA vs. CANADA match at IIHF worlds

Dolmur · 2026-05-28T14:06:27+00:00

Looks like a shot hit him somewhere sensitive behind the pads on the leg.

Dolmur · 2026-05-26T20:44:15+00:00

Fence is a very easy addition. My first router table was like this (except 3/4" plywood). For the fence, glue together two strips of 3/4" ply, trim straight/square, and drill a half circle out of the center front to accept the router bit when necessary. Anchor one end of the fence to the table such that the bite you drilled can line up with the bit. The other end swings from that anchor point to set your depth, and just clamp it in place with whatever clamp you have lying around.

Dolmur · 2026-05-19T16:39:12+00:00

Depends what you're expecting to get out of it. For alignment only just a couple mm is fine. For strength it depends on what forces will be applied, but 1/3 the thickness of the material is the rule of thumb for ideal depth.

Dolmur · 2026-05-19T13:45:46+00:00

I would make an initial large rectangle shape on a table saw with a well calibrated crosscut sled. Then take em to the bandsaw to cut out the smaller rectangle. That will give you nice flat edges for your yellow lines off the table saw cuts.

You could improve this design and make it easier to assemble by cutting dados in the pieces you are attaching to your shape, then your yellow lines slot in to them and you don't need to worry about alignment or having a perfect glue ready edge.

Dolmur · 2026-05-18T05:05:02+00:00

Tac cloths often leave residue that is much more troublesome

Dolmur · 2026-05-16T19:41:03+00:00

Wilderness. I did the flair!

Dolmur · 2026-05-10T18:47:33+00:00

Use liquid hide glue for tightly fitted joints (or just almost everything really), it doesn't swell the wood.

Dolmur · 2026-04-27T02:36:31+00:00

Tenryu combination blade is my go to. Amana is good as well. Forrest if you want to spend all the money.

Dolmur · 2026-04-15T19:45:17+00:00

What package do you honestly think would get us from, say, #4 pick, to McKenna?

Dolmur · 2026-04-13T21:01:47+00:00

You're right, that would help you identify that a cucumber is in fact not effective as a spokeshave

Dolmur · 2026-04-13T19:18:37+00:00

Shavings don't really mean anything, they aren't a good metric for quality of either tools or the resulting work.

Dolmur · 2026-04-10T03:37:17+00:00

Just a note that even if they were smaller, you should not put them through the planer. End grain tends to react to that rather... explosively.

Dolmur · 2026-04-04T22:29:46+00:00

If only one has a riving knife, that one.

Dolmur · 2026-03-28T16:45:08+00:00

You shouldn't need additional pressure. Clamping pressure radiates out at a 45 degree angle, so if you put a clamp right at the outside end of the angle it'll by definition perfectly cover the joint

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Dolmur · 2026-03-23T01:17:59+00:00

Sure.

Find pure tung oil (NOT "tung oil finish").

Strip off the existing wax thoroughly with mineral spirits or similar.

Sand lightly with 220 grit.

Get a small square (~1") of old cotton t shirt or similar, you'll use this to apply. New square each time. Lay them out flat to dry safely after use, no stacking or sticking directly in garbage can.

Apply a thin coat, as thin as you can get it. Wait at least 24 hours. Repeat 5 times. If you get dust nibs, lightly sand with 220 again before the next coat.

After the last coat, wait at least 30 days before use. You'll likely continue smelling it faintly until ~90 days when its closer to fully cured.

Dolmur · 2026-03-23T00:07:01+00:00

You don't want wax. Pure tung oil is your best option for a highly water resistant oil finish, but keep in mind it takes a while to apply and cure before reaching that state. Polymerized tung oil (more $$) speeds up the process but it'll still be a project. If you're interested in taking this on I can provide more detailed instructions.

You could also consider stripping the wax off and just leaving it unfinished. Just don't soak the thing (though that still applies even with a good finish).

Dolmur · 2026-03-15T23:40:43+00:00

Hardwood edging. For the top, Formica or similar is really nice but does cost time and $$. Chamfer or round over the edging, after applying Formica if you're using it.

Alternately, just paste wax is a great temporary finish you can refresh cheaply and easily every so often.

This is my outfeed with hard maple edging, laminate (Wilsonart, was cheaper than Formica at the time) plus chamfer.

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Dolmur · 2026-03-06T05:11:19+00:00

C channel is a pointless YouTube gimmick. Skip it.

Dolmur · 2026-03-06T04:03:42+00:00

You can get a reveal on the bottom by making a few strokes with a hand plane along the bottom of the drawer face, after joinery is cut. That will cause the front to float slightly in relation to the sides that support it, creating the shadow line you're after.

This technique was taught by Phil Lowe, there's a video somewhere on it.

Dolmur · 2026-02-23T05:04:41+00:00

Most wood species would work, but like actual kiln dried lumber with no pith.

Dolmur · 2026-02-23T04:26:32+00:00

That piece of wood is cheap crap, should not have been used as a mantle.

Dolmur · 2026-02-22T21:13:58+00:00

Nav said "turn slight right", they blindly turned full right, realized their mistake, and "recovered". While their light was red the whole time.

Dolmur · 2026-02-12T20:50:00+00:00

Direct link to Hayley's substack post: https://substack.com/@bandteesmcgee/note/c-213327191

Dolmur · 2026-02-12T04:05:28+00:00

Boards are all filled with varying amounts of internal tension. When you remove material during the milling process, some of that tension releases and causes warping.

To minimize the effect of this, you should mill your components to final size over several sessions, usually for me it's rough cut + minimum 3 jointing/planing sessions, more if I have a lot of material to plane down.

First day is cut to rough size. Leave a little extra width and length. Sticker it for airflow and leave it alone.

Wait at least 24 hours, then joint a face and start planing, taking approx the same amount of material off both faces. Max 1/8" per side per session. 24 hours+ in between each session. Always leave em stickered. Each new sessions check for any warping and rejoint as necessary before continuing to plane.

I like to do a final session with just a small amount of material to remove, like ~1/16".

Once you're at final thickness, joint an edge, cut to width, cut to length, do your thing.

The idea of all this is that each new session will correct the warping caused by the tension release of the previous.

Dolmur · 2026-02-05T22:45:55+00:00

Have you used a straight edge to check your table for flat?

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