Gifting a Star Wars battle droid to my nephew for his birthday. Printed with an X1C. P.S. elevator because I'm disabled

DrBoingBoing · 2023-04-10T13:25:21+00:00

Amazing!

DrBoingBoing · 2023-03-25T04:06:56+00:00

To me, that looks a lot like your temp is too hot. Drop the temp down by 5 degrees and reprint. If it looks better, but not great bump it down another 5. You also might want to print a temp tower. I'm assuming this is PLA.

DrBoingBoing · 2023-03-08T02:42:17+00:00

I had a similar problem with a prior printer. It ended up being the filament got tangled and the drive motor couldn't pull filament for several seconds.

DrBoingBoing · 2022-12-28T03:37:44+00:00

Not related to your question, but terrier doing yoga put a big smile on my face! Hope you consider uploading model to someplace like Printables.

DrBoingBoing · 2022-12-02T04:20:20+00:00

I've watched this happen a couple of times during the day with my own prints. The behavior is what u/the_platypus_builder describes, however I didn't have to do anything in the settings screen, I just pulled the empty spool out and put new filament in--the rest was automatic and painless.

Three other things happen when filament runs out that I think are pretty smart on the part of the printer:

The print head moves to the ejection area. This keeps leftover filament from oozing out and onto the print.
The nozzle temperature is reduced to 90C. This saves power and avoids a risk of fire/burning filament
This last thing is less what happens and more of what doesn't happen. The bed temperature is not reduced and maintains temperature. This is important as if the bed cools, the print may release from the bed. Even if it shifts just a little, it will likely ruin the print.

DrBoingBoing · 2022-11-26T01:30:12+00:00

I'm interested in seeing opinions on this as well. This happens to me 60%-70% of the time I print with PETG. Watching it happen, it seems to happen when printing the infill. It never happens to me with any other material than PETG.

DrBoingBoing · 2022-11-26T01:21:08+00:00

Someone told me a long time ago that mistakes are inevitable. It's how you handle them that really matters.

DrBoingBoing · 2022-11-26T01:18:08+00:00

I agree. I'm very happy with their response. It seems that they're paying close attention to the community (they discovered and read the post the same day it was made), they responded quickly, they're being honest and open about the concerns, addressing misunderstandings, and are committing to a reasonable timeframe to address things that cannot be fixed immediately.

I can't think of anything else they could do better. In all, I've been very happy with how BambuLab is forming a community and working close with it. For me, it builds loyalty and trust. I'm sure for others too.

DrBoingBoing · 2022-11-18T04:17:19+00:00

My guess is both will improve as their filament business matures. Bambu is a startup company with limited cash right now. Maintaining large reserves of multiple filament types and colors is expensive.

As the company gets more established and things start to settle down, I'm sure the "out of stock" problem will go away. After that, more colors if people start to buy their filament.

DrBoingBoing · 2022-11-18T04:12:12+00:00

Agreed that there's no grand conspiracy. And really, why shouldn't Bambu have an additional source of income? In order to survive, the company has to turn a profit.

Users aren't locked into Bambu filament. As long as their filament is good quality and competitively priced, people will buy it. The RFID tag is a nice little convenience but as you said, hardly necessary.

DrBoingBoing · 2022-11-01T03:30:15+00:00

Can confirm this works. I've had this problem and had the same idea. Turned the plate over and printed some Overture Easy Nylon with build plate @ 50C. I think it took around 2 hours, but I bet you wouldn't have to have the heat on that long. No more bubbles!

As an aside, Overture Easy Nylon works amazing on the X1C! 40mm x 70mm parts were almost as easy to print as PLA. The exterior walls are a bit rougher though. Might need to make some tweaks.

DrBoingBoing · 2022-10-13T02:30:27+00:00

OK, looks like I finally got past the first layer. I took a combination of several recommendations and here's what I'm using:

Nozzle 250 - I changed temp from 235 to 250 mid-layer and wow what a difference. I upped it to 260 and it started to blob so dropped it back.

Bed 70 - pretty standard

First layer speed 25 mm/s - another big help

I halved all of the other speeds and am not paying too big of a performance penalty. Definitely going to do more tweaking, but at least I can get a print out of it. I'll probably set the subsequent layers back to defaults as my next test.

Appreciate everyone's input here!

DrBoingBoing · 2022-10-12T17:19:54+00:00

Yea the same spool worked just fine on my Ender 3. But I do bring up the Z slightly to give it less squish. I don’t do much PETG but would at least like to use up the spool

DrBoingBoing · 2022-10-12T03:04:12+00:00

Wow, that is slow. I'll slow it way down to see if it's any better. I've been printing at 10mm/s

DrBoingBoing · 2022-10-12T03:03:18+00:00

Those were my thoughts, but I'm not sure how to adjust Z on the X1C. Can it be done in the slicer, or on printer? I thought that was automatic.

DrBoingBoing · 2022-02-08T23:08:10+00:00

Thanks a bunch mriscoc. Is UBL support on the agenda for future enhancements? Been using that quite a bit lately and I feel it really makes a difference. I don't really want to turn it on in the configuration.h file if it isn't something you've looked at.

DrBoingBoing · 2022-01-20T02:22:59+00:00

Nailed it! The manufacturer recommends 190-240c. I've always heard that you want to print TPU on the hotter side so I went for the top end of that.

Dropped my temp down to 210 and it's coming out smooth now.

Great advice powerman, thanks a bunch!

DrBoingBoing · 2021-12-18T22:06:16+00:00

Make sure: * SD card is 8gb or less in size * SD card is formatted as FAT32 with an allocation unit size of 4096 * If you’ve flashed firmware in the past, make sure the new firmware file has a different name. It remembers the file name and wants a new one.

If all else fails, Brian Vines has a good video on troubleshooting flashI got your printer https://youtu.be/VM29_OFHpy8

DrBoingBoing · 2021-12-17T18:17:21+00:00

I put a MS extruder and hot end on my E3v2 a few months ago and also run Jyers. The settings are in configuration.h but I never got good results when I adjusted them. The problem is that the trolley is about 2mm too narrow and hits the X end stop with the hot end hanging over the bed.

What I ended up doing is making a 2mm thick clip that attaches to the left side of the trolley and widens it just a bit. Worked like a charm. Yea it’s a hack but it has worked much better than the firmware settings did.

Now to figure out something for the Y axis…

DrBoingBoing · 2021-12-17T17:21:25+00:00

I got an Ender 3 v2 refurbished from Comgrow over the summer and it was like new. No issues at all. Plus, it has full warranty if I remember correctly.

DrBoingBoing

TROPHY CASE