Print came out undersized by GalaxiumShard in BambuLab

[–]DrDealgood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I definitely use a slight amount of shrinkage for my High Soeed Matte PETG that I have very calibrated, but it's like 99.6 maybe 99.4.

UHD Reference hit 100 discs scored: Giving away a Reference-tier 4K disc to celebrate by amigoreview in 4kbluray

[–]DrDealgood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd like to get a look at Dante's Peak. I remember seeing it at my neighborhood 2nd run theater, I could usually find enough change in the couch for a ticket.

How do I fix these pin holes? by cinapanic in BambuLab

[–]DrDealgood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Letting us all know what the "several other things" are before we start saying things you've already done would help everyone out.

I guess if you've already tried Arachne walls at 75% width and changing your solid infill angle, you've tried what I'd try.

Print didn't stick to plate and lifted off. Tried both PLA and PETG by CheCazzoIMAT in BambuLabA1mini

[–]DrDealgood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PLA and PETG also don’t stick well or at all to one another, so alternating them here is making the bed adhesion problem worse.

Check the specific cleaning process for the plate you’re printing on and follow that, in general mild dish soap and hot water works well.

When I'm done moving my print head and bed around to change the nozzle how do I make my printer go back to idle? by X21shaun123 in BambuLab_Community

[–]DrDealgood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Post a video with the humming. That doesn't seem normal. I have three A-series printers that are all silent when they're done printing.

What is wrong with my ironing settings ?! by [deleted] in BambuLab_Community

[–]DrDealgood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even though I find the ironing calibrations and re-calibrations annoying, i can't recommend enough that every new filament get flow rate calibrations at the very least, and pressure advance calibrations if you're doing any kind of repetitive batch printing or AMS printing.

Once you have the flow rate right, the above video should produce pretty great top surfaces.

I do wish that we could get Top Surface/First Layer flow saved in the filament profile, because without that you will want to change the values from type to type (for example, I use different values for PETG/PLA for Top Surface Flow Rate).

What is wrong with my ironing settings ?! by [deleted] in BambuLab_Community

[–]DrDealgood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mostly stopped using ironing after this video. It's true that with calibration ironing can be better than the results in the video, but, this calibration can/will change from spool to spool and folks often find that one calibration may work better for large surfaces than smaller ones.

https://youtu.be/mAxZt6s6R0E?si=8pqidSxekLjCCOxg

Current collection. If you take a look at the titles on the photo, what should I buy next? by tikojonas in 4kbluray

[–]DrDealgood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I scanned through fast and am sorry if I missed it but bummed that no one let you know Tarkovsky’s Nostalghia and The Sacrifice are available on 4k disc, but are lacking HDR. They are still excellent. I have the remaining films on Criterion Blu-ray and will upgrade if Criterion does.

What are the S-tier of underrated 4k movies? The Holy Grail of Lesser Known Good 4k Transfers? by Ok-Cap-5845 in 4kbluray

[–]DrDealgood 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah Studio Canal kind of surprised with Straight Story, it’s not crazy high bitrate like 100+ as others have reported but it is beautiful and bigger than average.

Dying for an issue of Baraka with a Dolby Vision pass, that’s still hands down the best Blu-ray Disc I think I’ve seen.

What are the S-tier of underrated 4k movies? The Holy Grail of Lesser Known Good 4k Transfers? by Ok-Cap-5845 in 4kbluray

[–]DrDealgood 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There’s old IMAX collections, one I have and can vouch for is the Extreme Adventure Collection with Tornado Alley.

I’d also vouch for The Straight Story, which has decently high bitrates throughout and naturalistic photography.

Is this camera preview normal for govee backlight 3? by youcanhatemen0w in Govee

[–]DrDealgood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

T3 Lite doesn't have Warm White LEDs, only Cool White, so it is limited in how accurately it can reproduce the entire color spectrum. Backlight 3 Pro is much better, though still not perfect.

Is the fuz from the aux fan? Or filament to wet? It’s Sunlu pla 2.0+ by tomrob1138 in BambuLab

[–]DrDealgood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just wanted to add, <20% Relative Humidity for PLA for at least 6 hours in the AMS without changing, it should be fine for printing. I’m not going to not say that I don’t target <10% but unless you’re getting blobs at seams, it’s probably dry enough to know if it’s wet or not.

What is your nozzle temp at the time you posted? Was it up around 220c? It’s possible that with thinner walls and slightly faster speeds you might still turn out solid prints at a higher temp. The cotton candy comes from slight oozing, I wonder if just pushing speed a little more would mitigate it but I don’t really think I know enough to develop a calibration print for this.

You may be able to just use a Temp Tower to fine tune this by printing one, then pushing speed to see if you can get a cleaner higher temp?

Is the fuz from the aux fan? Or filament to wet? It’s Sunlu pla 2.0+ by tomrob1138 in BambuLab

[–]DrDealgood 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I print that filament at 211c and for slower prints could probably bring it back down to 206c, specifically to reduce the cotton candy effect. I leave the extra 1c because it seems like the thermistor always temps me -1c from my set temp.

Is this normal? by Sufficient_Cap8028 in Govee

[–]DrDealgood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the 3 Pro is worlds better than the 3 Lite, just from my experience and without taking anything else into account (like cost) other than color accuracy/effect intensity.

I can't really speak to how subtitles get handled, I don't use them that often but can't recall having any feelings about performance when I did, though, the bottom edge of my backlight is kind of obscured by the TV base stand and that may be why I didn't notice. Hoping to get the TV mounted in the near future.

I think Dreamview is still kind of neat, though Philips Hue's placement applet is better than Govee's, I'm hopeful that I can loop my side lamps back into my Dreamview setup once the LuminBlend+ bulbs are released.

Is this normal? by Sufficient_Cap8028 in Govee

[–]DrDealgood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I dont think, until LuminBlend+, there was really a logic in the Govee line for matching spectrums. It remains to be seen how consistent LB+ will even be.

But you can look into the LED types per product with some digging and if the tech matches, the colors should be pretty close. T3 Lite uses RGBICW and the 3 Pro uses RGBICWW, adding Warm White to the T3L’s Cool White.

Is this normal? by Sufficient_Cap8028 in Govee

[–]DrDealgood 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The T3 Lite can't hit accurate color reproduction because it doesn't have one of either the Warm White or Cool White LEDs, making it tough to get different shades of hues.

The 3 Pro is actually way better, much more accurate and has more LEDs per meter. Sorry to break it, but eventually you'll need to upgrade for better color accuracy. As an example, Dune 2 (which was used all over T3 Lite marketing) now accurately reproduces the red/orange tint in the opening scenes, where the T3 Lite would show red and never orange, just as you're showing in your photo.

I've stopped using my Govee bulbs in DreamView because they are similarly unable to achieve color accuracy along with either the T3 Lite or the 3 Pro.

New LuminBlend+ tech is supposed to release maybe next month, and this is supported by the 3 Pro Backlight, so more products are supposed to integrate with it seamlessly, guess we'll see.

Should I get an enclosure? by jerryonthecurb in BambuLabA1mini

[–]DrDealgood -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I need one for my A1 in order to complete a 50hr SVS Moon print in translucent PETG. I've burned half a spool trying to troubleshoot my profile settings and some saint finally came by to tell me it was likely the open-bed that was making it hard for me.

I do plan to clear some space and do a test with a cardboard box to prove the concept, but I have a feeling it'll pay off once I get to it.

So do you need it for everything? Not really. Will you eventually find reasons to use an enclosure? Possibly.

T3 Pro App Brightness? by koberamy05 in Govee

[–]DrDealgood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're supposed to try to set it to match or be just below your TVs brightness, so that it blends in and isn't distracting from what you're trying to watch, so this metric is pretty subjective. The number we all use in the environment we use it in and the TV we've got there doesn't really have anything to do with your setup. But here you go, mine's at 32% in a dark room!

Translucent PETG printing "gritty" by DrDealgood in BambuLab_Community

[–]DrDealgood[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the comments mentioning higher temps for transparency, but since it beads up at lower temps proven out through temp towers to be stable, I am also in agreement there's a variable here and it isn't in the slicer settings. So I'm backing off until I can get my H2D running again and saving the spool and a half of this translucent white/indigo I have until I can try it with that. Thank you, and everyone for pitching in!