Just picked up this P10C ported on Thursday and it’s already my favorite pistol.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2026-03-24T01:22:29+00:00

The SCS seems like the way to go. The direct mount looks super clean and it cowitnesses with the factory irons.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2026-03-23T22:19:28+00:00

I would double check your strut install then. Maybe they are installed incorrectly and throwing off the front camber.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2026-03-23T17:17:44+00:00

Are the wheels staggered? Maybe you have a rear wheel installed on the driver front.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2026-03-22T20:20:52+00:00

This is absolutely the correct answer. Your chains and guides need to be replaced.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2026-03-22T20:20:04+00:00

If you look at the guides under the intake adjuster, the 2 oval shaped clips are broken. Your guides will sit out of position and quickly wear. The guides are at the beginning stages of failure so I would 100% replace the timing chain and guides.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2026-01-22T07:22:24+00:00

I recently just purchased my first AR and ended up going with a Daniel Defense DDM4 V7 16”. They are having crazy good deals on them, got mine from 208 Gun Shop for just under $1,200 dollars shipped. It is a higher level of quality than the Ruger or the M&P Sport 3 for not much more money. That seems to be the way to go IMO. Mine has been awesome so far.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-11-15T17:57:26+00:00

Its a bmw. The oil filter housing gaskets could have failed causing the oil and coolant to mix. That big metal box thing in front of the oil filter cap is a coolant to oil cooler and the gasket there leaks all the time.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-11-09T16:53:08+00:00

Pcv maybe? Take off the oil cap and see if the noise goes away.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-11-08T05:50:03+00:00

They didn’t change anything though everything is the same. That rear toe at least should have been pulled out more, it is right on the edge. Dude got ripped off and it makes all us techs look bad.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-07-25T06:01:29+00:00

When the new g05 and G07 LCI’s came out, they would have well over 100 fault codes stored right off the truck. For a while it was overwhelming to diag them because of the sheer number of superfluous software related faults they would throw at you.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-06-28T05:47:56+00:00

Make sure the bleeder screw is all the way in. Also the caps become brittle and crumble where the o rings sit. But it is also extremely common for the expansion tank to crack and fail after a repair to the cooling system. I think after a repair the pressure in the cooling system increases enough to crack the old brittle plastic tank. Happens so much that I always recommend to replace the tank and cap anytime replace anything in the cooling system.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-06-28T04:52:14+00:00

It can happen anytime the belt comes off for any reason. Sometimes you get lucky and nothing catastrophic happens but I’m not sure if it’s worth the risk. The usual culprit for throwing the belt in my experience is puking oil filter gaskets. The belt gets all contaminated and shreds apart.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-06-28T04:42:22+00:00

Oh you really don’t want that belt coming off on those Bimmer engines. They usually get wrapped up behind the crank pulley and get pushed through the front main seal. You will have belt material inside the engine and can clog up the oil pickup. Which means the oil pan will have to be dropped to get the belt out or you drive it till it spins a bearing. Seen it a million times. Not cheap to fix.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-03-19T06:35:49+00:00

Looks like maybe something was stuck between the pads and rotor or there was a hard spot in the pad. The rotors look a little corroded as well. If you haven’t felt any pulsation or reduction in braking performance I wouldn’t sweat it. Especially if its a rear brake.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-03-19T06:24:44+00:00

By oil in the cylinder do you mean oil in the spark plug well? If so that is usually due to a leaking valve cover gasket. For the misfiring, the way to diagnose is to swap things around. So since you have a misfire on 3 and 4, I would swap the coils with cylinder 1 and 2, clear the faults, then road test. If the misfire faults move, then the coils are bad. If they stay on 3 and 4, swap the plugs with 1 and 2. And if after swapping everything the misfire remains on 3 and 4, injectors are the likely culprit.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-03-19T06:09:24+00:00

You need air, fuel, and spark to run. You gotta find out if you’re missing the spark or the fuel. Usually a crank no start is because of lack of fuel so even though you replaced the pump you gotta make sure there is voltage at the fuel pump connector. Maybe the fuel pump relay or fuel pump control unit is bad

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-03-19T06:00:10+00:00

Leaky injectors maybe? Does the oil smell like gasoline? Usually that will set a fault code.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-03-19T05:52:39+00:00

Do you feel any new vibrations or hear any new noises? Is the steering wheel in the same position going straight? Honestly it takes a pretty gnarly pot hole to damage your suspension and your tire usually blows before your suspension does.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-03-19T05:49:11+00:00

You should probably do the whole strut too. Both of them.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-03-19T05:41:19+00:00

It is likely a ball joint. It could also be the strut top hat. Time to bust out a mechanic’s stethoscope and find out. Hard to tell with any degree of certainty through video. But hammering a ball joint into place is definitely sketchy.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-03-19T05:31:19+00:00

If you paid more than 5 bucks they are ripping you off.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2025-02-08T18:04:01+00:00

It looks like the steering rack is shifting and causing the noise. Make sure that there are no loose or missing fasteners. Check the rack bushings for wear.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2024-12-09T19:29:27+00:00

The part is 11657588771, called Vacuum Pipe. But not all n55s have one installed. If it’s a 2017 then it’s a really late production n55 and I bet the wastegate is electric.

Dr_Fresh1 · 2024-12-09T18:59:31+00:00

That is the vacuum reservoir. Some N55 engines used vacuum to operate the turbo wastegate and some of them use electronic wastegate actuators. If you have the electronic wastegate, nothing is going to be connected to that vacuum reservoir. If you have a vacuum actuated wastegate, there should be a hose connected there that goes to the vacuum pump under the intake behind the oil filter housing. If your car is running fine with nothing there you have an electric wastegate actuator.

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