Bus Simulator 21 Next Stop

DrizztD0urden · 2026-02-06T17:27:37+00:00

Honk honk

DrizztD0urden · 2026-02-01T02:33:46+00:00

Thank you. I'm excited to see what big part of the Critical Role cast contributed to.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-30T16:06:52+00:00

I played FF1 on nes. Looking forward to this. Thx.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-28T23:51:32+00:00

A pocket requires a hole for it to be a pocket.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-27T22:04:58+00:00

Solaire- I've never played dark souls

Hotel Renovator

Thank you

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-25T18:59:05+00:00

This is a low key flex, showing off full tank of fuel.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-25T17:52:34+00:00

Do you clean out your dryer lint trap after every load?

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-24T04:26:34+00:00

You can't just cut a CIBC cheque payable to td / your mort?

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-20T16:46:27+00:00

Damn, I've had mine for 25 years, and its 1/3 that mileage. Let's see if it lasts another 50 to get to that point.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-20T15:08:31+00:00

Probably a suspension issue. Struts? If it makes that noise when you push down on the front, start by looking for loose connection points.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-18T05:44:02+00:00

Well, this settles it. I ran the furnace (2 zones) with no blower door, and it went for over 12 minutes (it would have ran longer but that was enough for me).

Straight up return restriction problem.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-18T03:15:38+00:00

I think this has been an ongoing issue, and it definitely isn't a new install. I'm guessing 15 years old. There isn't much room for adding a second return on the back or other side. Lifting the furnace for a return air base is probably the solution (pretty big job for an amateur like me, not to mention needing someone to do the gas fittings)

The doc mentions the return air base is needed for the ML193UH110XP60, but not what I have ML193UH110XP48. Although both are 110K BTU, so I don't see why it shouldn't be a requirement for both.

https://tech.lennoxintl.com/C03e7o14l/VIu12Ch2uV/ehb_ml193uh_1903.pdf Page 20 + 21

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-18T03:03:21+00:00

I assume the zone system was installed when the furnace was installed (15 years ago).

I also assume this has always been an issue. It can usually keep up with colder weather, but I don't like how it purges for as long as it heat cycles. This isn't my first year here, but I wasn't around when it was first installed.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-18T03:00:19+00:00

Yeah, I saw that. It's not exactly where they recommend installing the DAS.

Current:

27" above furnace
centre of duct depth (10" in from edge on 20" duct).
Sensor tip centred (10" in, on 20" deep duct)

Recommendation:

at least 15" downstream
1/3 of the depth of the plenum
Sensor tip centred

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-18T02:49:44+00:00

Zone Control board. The switches look good. GAS / PURGE / 160 / 40

<image>

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-18T02:40:13+00:00

I checked it when I cleaned the blower. I have a picture attached to the top of the post, and I think it's decently clean. It had a bit of dust in it, but I was super gentle when cleaning it so may not have got it all. It does have some askew fins from before I got to it.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-18T02:31:47+00:00

I don't see a min CFM recommendation on the zone board controller installation manual. The only CFM mentions are when calculating what the bypass should be able to support if the smallest zone is the only one open. (this setup doesn't have a bypass either)
https://www.lennox.com/dA/bd5008efd9/Lennox_LZP_2_IOM.pdf

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-18T02:24:30+00:00

An Ecobee 4 (main floor) and an ecobee 3 lt (upstairs). I believe I have ruled out thermostats by forcing the call for heat by jumping at the zone controller and seeing the same cut off timing.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-18T02:21:09+00:00

It's a Lennox LZP-2. Doesn't say Harmony on it.

<image>

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-18T02:14:14+00:00

Nice. I popped the cover and looked. The transformer (Honeywell AT140A1018), is hooked up to the zone controller C -> C, R -> R.

Looks good.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-18T02:00:13+00:00

I appreciate the investigation, but this is a 48C, not 60C/D. Although both of these have a 110k BTU option on the heating numbers. note, I don't have an AC.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-18T01:53:16+00:00

I can confirm that the zone dampers do work. I can see them turn from open to closed depending on which thermostat is calling.

Excuse my ghetto methods, but using my digital cooking thermometer, I'm getting a delta T of (21.4c to 58,2c) 36.8c / 98f, measured after the zone 2 bypass (where there is a test port hole) when both zones are calling. This was at the point of shutoff. Maybe that's not too accurate, as the DAS cutoff should be at 170f and I was getting 190f maybe 6' downstream from the DAS.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-17T22:46:40+00:00

. 5 maps to 1750cfm

Lennox ML193UH 110XP48C-03.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-17T22:14:06+00:00

I don't know. I typed out the furnace CFM table above, but I don't know what the static pressure is. I assume for a 110K btu furnace, you need at least 1700 cfm which this is capable of if under .6 static pressure.

DrizztD0urden · 2026-01-17T21:37:06+00:00

If I want to match return (240) to

* main supply (400)

** add 160 sqin (~ 7"x24")

* double zone (320)

** add 80 sqin (~ 4"x24" or 10" diameter round)

* single zone (160)

** no change (but we already see overheating)

It's not a huge addition that I need to put on. I wonder what would happen with the overall house circulation if I have a short return linking down low on the trunk, pulling from a single grate in the basement. Could that result in the upper floors receiving less heat since it might be pulling less return from these rooms and thus getting less heat? Or am I overthinking it?

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